Dwight

Scott, . . . take those Tandy snap setters, . . . give them to your Uncle Bill to use for fishing weights, . . . go to Walmart and get one of their snap pliers. Mine have kinda dark blue handles, a red ring to hold the male part of the snaps in place while being set, . . . and I found them in the sewing section, . . . next to the needles, snaps, thread, etc. When I bought mine, they came with a half dozen size 24 snaps that said .45 Colt on them, . . . and it is one super tool. It has a realy easy learning curve to it, . . . just remember that the flaring point needs to be in contact with the snap as you begin to squeeze the tool. I think they cost about 8 bucks, . . . great investment, . . . I average ruining about one snap in 30 or 40 with them, . . . maybe 1 in 10 with the Tandy tools, . . . and the doing of the snaps is about 1/10th of the time. Additionally, . . . they have a rounded smooth piece that protects the top of your snap. Sometimes my Tandy done snaps looked like I had beat them on both sides. May God bless, Dwight

I'm probably out of the ordinary on this, . . . but I always plan on sanding the edges smooth, . . . and when they happen to line up right, . . . it's a pleasant surprize. I used to try, . . . and fail regularly, to get it all to line up, . . . finally figured it wasn't worth all the hassle & worry when I've got at least 7 different sanding tools and a trash bin. Now I just sand it 'till it's right, . . . or pitch it and start over. May God bless, Dwight

Thasssss a good job, Freedom. May God bless, Dwight

That's a big CONGRATULATIONS, . . . glad it is working out for you. May God bless, Dwight

I did this one last year, Jordan, . . . using techniques garnered from Gormley and John Bianchi. If you see or get a chance to see John's 3 tape series on making Western gun rigs, . . . absolutely and positively well worth the 6 hours watching. Take MANY notes. Both the holster and the belt are 5/6 oz double shoulder leather, . . . two layer, . . . contact cemented and stitched together. I sold the cross draw holster, . . . but am keeping the right hand holster and belt (unless someone makes me an offer I cannot refuse, . . . Don't forget to post pictures when you get done, . . . May God bless, Dwight

I'll second the motion by shorts, . . . resolene. If you don't have the equipment for spraying, . . . put some in a pint jar, mix it with an equal amount of luke warm water, . . . shake it well, . . . get a small, cheap, horsehair brush and go for it. You want to be sure there is no more "leatherwork" to be done, . . . but keep buckles, and stuff off for now. Saturate the whole project, . . . front, back, left, right, top, bottom, inside, outside, straps, . . . the whole 11 yards. Then go back immediately with a lighter layer, . . . brushing right and left & up and down. You want to make almost a froth on the project, . . . then keep brushing till the froth is basically gone. Hang it in the sun, . . . or another "warm" place. YOU DO NOT WANT A HOT PLACE, . . . just "warm" if available. If you aren't satisfied with the first coat, . . . do it again, . . . same process. May God bless, Dwight

Nahh, Lobo, . . . artist is something I don't aspire to, . . . just another leather worker. This is one of my favorites I have ever done, . . . cross draw rig for a Ruger Super Blackhawk, 44 mag. Working on a native American style fringed gun bag, will have USMC beaded patch on top corner. Really enjoy different things in leather, . . . May God bless, Dwight

So far, I have never had a customer who demanded a lining for his/her holster, . . . not saying there never will be one, . . . but if there is, . . . I would probably do it the way the Bianchi way: two layers of veggie tanned leather glued flesh side to flesh side. I've made several holsters this way, . . . and I like the effect, . . . I haven't yet used them for a two tone effect (dye one one way, . . . and the other another color before the gluing process), . . . but it is something I've given a bit of thought to, . . . just haven't gotten there yet. May God bless, Dwight

I played with some kydex a few years ago, . . . made an IWB, tuckable, for a 1911. After much aggravation, . . . I found that the $19.95 heat gun kit from Harbor Freight was just exactly the right tool for heating it up to bend and not hurt anything (there was a really neat "wrinkle" finish on the one side, . . . slick on the other"). As soon as I saw the bend was where I wanted it, . . . I applied a paper towel that had been soaking in cold water, . . . it chilled the bend and kept it right there. The whole process was about an hour or so, . . . May God bless, Dwight

If you are using veggy tan leather, . . . the best message I know: you don't, . . . period. If you oil up a project made from veg tan leather, . . . you will wind up with some limp piece of animal skin that probably will never function like you wanted it to. The dyes and treatments are made to do the things you want them to, . . . and not to ruin the leather. Adding additional oil will undo many of the things they are made to do. May God bless, Dwight

Justin, . . . thank you for the good words, . . . the one just like it for a Bersa Thunder is smaller, and does all the same good things. There are actually 4 pieces of leather there on that particular holster(other than the loops), . . . but it rides high and flat, . . . so even all the sewing and skiving makes it worth it when it is done. I have tried several other holsters, . . . but this is the design that is THE most comfortable for me, . . . worn mostly dead on 3:00. May God bless, Dwight

I guess I don't follow you, Josh, on getting the screw back, . . . but I guess that would work, . . . moving the billet with Chicago screws. I tried to pull up a copy of the belt that had the conchos, . . . but it wouldn't come up for me. And, . . . thanks everyone, . . . I've got enough ideas that I can make one of them work for sure now. I was kinda stuck on "sewing" on the billet, . . . sometimes ya have to "think outside the box" so to speak. May God bless, Dwight

I don't want to rain on your parade or anything, . . . but that particular design looks very much like a Sparks VMII, . . . and I believe the design is patented/copyrighted. That said, . . . the front "wing" is sewn first, . . . then the two pieces are laid down with the wing standing up like an airplane tail fin, . . . and the third piece sewn onto the front and back by starting in the back, . . . rolling across the seam, . . . sewing the front, . . . coming back again on the seam, . . . and finishing up in the back. I know this because just for kicks and giggles, . . . I made one for myself. They earn their money on that particular style, . . . and will never have any competition from me. And, yes, if you do carry a concealed handgun, . . . you will find that the holsters that do not have the re-inforcement tend to close up, . . . and that can be a sticky situation as you try to put away a sidearm, . . . and there ain't no place to put it. My main two designs I make have the reinforcement even if it is for a mouse gun. May God bless, Dwight

Today, a customer posed a different question to me: "If I continue to lose weight, and you make me a size 42 cartridge/gun belt, . . . what do I do when it is too big for me because I have lost so much weight?" I kinda wanted to smile and tell him he could buy another belt, . . . but I resisted, . . . told him I'd research it, . . . so here we are. Anybody ran up against this one successfully before? Thanks, . . . may God bless, Dwight

This is my design that I use, . . . and with just a little blousing, . . . it is virtually impossible to detect that I'm carrying, . . . and you see my weapon, . . . full size 1911. May God bless, Dwight

As you finish, . . . everything else done, . . . wrap the threads with two wraps of teflon tape. It will prevent the screws backing out because of the pressure of the washer. May God bless, Dwight

I use a pair of sheet metal bending pliers, . . . they look like a "wide jaw" version of pliers. Ask for them at a hardware store. They work real well on Glock holsters where I have to make a 90 practically at the stitch line. Use water just a little hotter than your hand can stand, . . . soak it, . . . then grab it with the pliers and bend, . . . forcing the front of the pliers down into the fold, . . . works great for me. May God bless, Dwight

In John Bianchi's video on making a Western Gunfighter Rig, . . . he goes through the steps to make this burnisher. It's basically wool felt cut into 1 1/2 inch discs, . . . placed on an arbor, . . . placed on a small 1725 RPM motor, . . . he advocated first using Tandy's Edge Coat (I think the videos were a Tandy informercial to a certain degree) and then rubbing with virgin beeswax and doing it again. I made one like that, . . . it works great, . . . but it is out in my shop where it is -8 F and I would rather use my Dremel in the house where it is between 68 and 72 But for $99.00 on ebay, . . . one can get the product and not have to do anything. May God bless, Dwight

In one of his holster making videos, John Bianchi put on a pair of wide cuffed, heavy canvas gloves and demonstrated that those were his "burnishing" tools early in his career. He used a bit of moisture to get started, and ran a piece of raw beeswax on the edge. The friction of rubbing the edge briskly with the palm of the glove would soften the wax and imbed it into the fibers. It gives a fair edge, . . . but a dremel tool and either the dye you are using, . . . or Gum Tragacanth, . . . gives a really good edge. May God bless, Dwight

About a year ago, . . . I went through a couple of threads on TFL and 1911.com, . . . and actually logged down what everyone answered to the question "What do you carry?" My list showed a preponderance for Glock 19, Beretta 92, and 1911's, . . . and I bought the appropriate "blue gun" dummies for those. So far, the 1911 and Glock have been used several times, . . . the Beretta gathers a lot of dust. But I paid $35 or so for each, . . . your deal looks better. And I echo the other comments about the blue guns being really great to work with for molding, etc. May God bless, Dwight

McJeep, . . . some of the holster makers like to add a drop or two of liquid soap to their water before they dunk their leather prior to forming. I'm usually in too much of a hurry for that, . . . but the key is to let the leather return to almost the same color as it was dry, . . . then when you form anything on it, . . . it stands a better chance of keeping the formed shape. You also want to trim your fingernails, . . . you can ruin a good piece of wet leather with one ugly scratch of a fingernail. I hate wearing gloves, . . . so I don't mess with that either during my forming processes. May God bless, Dwight

Thanks, Kiwi, . . . are you over near the East Coast? I was there about 40 years ago with the US Navy, . . . pulled into Brisbane, . . . spent 4 days on the "Gold Coast". You have a beautiful continent from what little I saw of it. May God bless, Dwight

Lisa, . . . for several reasons, . . . I do not spray anything in by leatherwork. I daub or dunk my dyes, . . . and brush on my Resolene. I cut the Resolene 50/50 with tap water, . . . shake it well, . . . and with a camel hair, one inch (cheapie) brush, . . . I begin brushing the object. At first it is kind of slopped on, . . . but then I keep brushing and it will kind of foam up, . . . and just keep brushing, . . . the bubbles will all break and you will be finally brushing a polished surface. Hang it up to dry, . . . a little (emphasis on LITTLE ) heat will help. The double rig was done that way, . . . all three pieces probably took 45 minutes total. May God bless, Dwight

Ray, . . . I confess to not knowing how it was done, . . . but:, . . . a few years back I was involved in a discussion of armor, armoring, etc. and how it was done in the "old days". One person mentioned taking very heavy leather, . . . cutting it to shape, . . . and literally immersing it in liquid beeswax, . . . forming it to the proper shape and allowing it to cool and harden. I guess this was actually formed to the individual wearer (can you imagine laying down while your local armourer "fits" you with a piece of leather that just came out of a boiling cauldron of beeswax ?) So just for fun, . . . we heated up some parrafin, . . . threw a piece of 12 oz or so of leather in the stuff, . . . left it in until it had soaked up the parrafin, . . . fished it out, . . . and when it dried, . . . it was almost a rock, it was so hard. I don't know if that process would work for you, . . . but a knife sheath done the same way would be a good practice piece, . . . and if it works as good on the knife sheath as it did on our scrap piece, . . . you'ld do all right. May God bless, Dwight