Dunluce

I use a roller pen like this one from Tandy https://www.tandyleather.eu/en/product/craftool-pro-edge-dye-roller-pen I have tried a few methods and I find this by far the best. By the way if you go to the Giardini site they will send a few free samples for the price of postage

I see a few posts on here regarding the use of leather edge paint and I thought I would share my experience of using the Giardini leather edge paint that gives you that rounded 'rubberised' edge you see on bags etc. I made a watch strap about a year ago and used this on the edges. I have used the watch every single day since and despite the fact the edge rubs on the buckle (I made the strap the correct width for the buckle but once I put a few coats of the paint on it was tight) and it is as good now as when I first applied it. It shows no signs of peeling or cracking. I want to make it clear that I am nothing to do with the company but I am just really pleased with how the product has performed.

This is similar. I have never actually orders of these people but they look to have a lovely range of tools http://elfitakorea.blogspot.co.uk/2014/03/bearing-roller-for-coating.html

When I was talking to someone recently about making rolled bag handles they told me to go to a local leather goods and fittings shop and ask for stuffing for Bugatti handles. Apparently (I may be wrong) they were he first to do this type of handle and it has become named after them. I went to the shop and they had rolls of it in two different thicknesses and it was very cheap. It is a fibrous type of material with a thread like webbing over it. I haven't actually made a handle yet so I can't report how it works.

I know a lot of people use Tiger thread and really like it but I have had a couple of issues that I am wondering if anyone else has had. I made a couple or items wallet, key fobs and belts about a year ago which are in daily use. They were all a medium to dark brown thread colour and I have now noticed that that the colour seems to have drained from them and they are much lighter. My other issue is that when I am saddle stitiching with Tiger thread, when I pass my second needle through The stitch hole I am much more likely to put my needle through the thread already in the stitch hole than I am with linen or cotton thread. Anybody else noticed this?

I have done a few bits of playing about with different recipes and one of the problems I had was the amount of beeswax used in most. It seems to me that it prevented the the lotion being absorbed into the leather. What I am using at present is the following (remember this is parts not percentage) 10 parts beef fat 5 parts lard 5 parts lanolin 0.5 parts beeswax. i also added a few drops of citronella essential oil. I read that it has anti-septic properties and it also makes the conditioner smell really nice! i have used it on quite a few items and it is readily absorbed and it has been in a jar in a cupboard for quite a few months without any sign of going off

Jonathan, I assume for making watch straps you probably want to order small quantities. I am wanting to practise making some and am going to order from the Identity Store where they sell small lots of calf, kangaroo or stallion

Matt, I have recently started using similar to a paring knife having tried the safety sliver and similar before. I have found that it is initially harder to get to grips with but with more practise I am finding that it offers you more control. I have went to one of our local Argos stores and bought a marble kitchen board. It isn't thick enough for hammering, or similar, on but it was cheap and hopefully will do for skiving. I will see how I get on. RockyAussie, Sorry but I am lost in what you are saying. Warm the corners? I don't even know what a slicker press is, is it similar to a hand slicker (burnisher)? If you know any videos that would be much appreciated.

So I tried my first folded edge wallet and I have a couple of questions to help me improve. I skived the edge with a blade and I know I have to practise; it isn't as easy as those videos where people run their blade along the leather like a knife through hot butter! When I look at this they always skive on a surface like glass or polished marble, does this really make a difference? I have just been doing mine on my cutting mat. Also how do you do your corners? I tried to cut them so the two edges aligned at an angle but it hasn't quite worked. Do you overlap them?

What about this? Maybe the fact it is on sale might compensate for postage http://www.metropolitanleather.com/Vegetable-Tanned-Leather/vegetable-tanned-shoulder-clearance/vegetable-tanned-old-english-bridle-half-side-clearance

MadMax, Thanks for your help. I haven't come across the Sajou site before, I might try ordering some bits from there to compare them

I have just seen some thread that comes in smaller bobbin sizes and looks more affordable. It is Lin Retors Glacé (which in my limited French I believe means waxed twisted linen) however it is listed as size No. 40. Does anyone know what this equates to in either mm or 332, 432 etc? I can't find the answer anywhere. I thought I was starting to get a grip on thread sizes but new ones seem to keep turning up! The thread can be seen here: http://www.decocuir.com/Mobile/fil-chinois-lin-glace-bobine-couture-cuir-france-c2x19022122

Sorry reading it properly now. I notice Petewon says the thread is quite a bit thinner han his usual 632. When i looked this up it says 632 is about 0.5mm so this thread is probably about 0.4mm. Much thinner than anything i have tried yet.

Petewon, i absolutely love this. I have been practising a few wallets and card holders; my stitching is coming on but it will be a long time before it looks as neat as this. Could i ask you what type of thread and thickness are you using and how many stitches per inch?

I have just found a seller on Etsy who sells 12 different 5m lengths of linen thread (Au Chinois, Somac, German and Irish) so you can try several different types. I think I will give this a go first

I have moved this Question into this forum as perhaps it has more relevance here. I have been looking on-line at Fil de Lin and Fil de Lin Au Chinois thread for hand sewing. I have seen here that some people have used them but I know nothing about them. What are they like to use and why is the Au Chinois much more expensive; is it worth it?

I have been looking on-line at Fil de Lin and Fil de Lin Au Chinois thread. I have seen here that some people have used them but I know nothing about them. What are they like to use and why is the Au Chinois much more expensive; is it worth it?

This is what i use for cutting holes, I presume you can get something the same where you live. You can also get similar from Goods Japan https://www.cassart.co.uk/brand/jakar/jakar_compass_cutter.htm

Well I am about to order some so I will let you know what happens

I am looking at buying some pigskin to make some wallets, card holders etc. You can buy it dry finished or tallow waxed. I have never used any tallow waxed before; can you burnish the edges of it as you can with normal veg tan?

Sheilajeanne, I Found a local art/model shop that cuts acrylic and got them to cut me a load of circles as in the photo. Because they are concentric circles they ll fitted on one A4 sheet so it wasn't too expensive

I just ordered the knife from Decocuir and it arrived promptly (they even included a small free gift) and can confirm you don't need a minimum order of 100 euro. I don't speak a word of French but I managed to navigate their site successfully

So, (seriously) next time I'm frying off some mince can I pour off the fat and mix it with some lard and beeswax to make a test sample of this mixture? Also could I use it on natural untreated veg tan leather?

Try here, http://www.artisans.co.uk/

If you are doing one of the bags where you sew it then turn it the right way out I would go for something 1.5mm or less. I recently made my first ever bag and it was from 1.8mm leather that was quite stiff. I had an awful time trying to turn it and it left a few crease marks on it.