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CowboyBob

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Everything posted by CowboyBob

  1. Eric, Yes,you can sew single needle on a double needle machine,BUT when you want to do upholstery with the welt cord you'll have a problem getting a foot,you can get one special made but it doesn't work as good as a single needle machine with a welt foot. Bob
  2. It looks like a Singer 52-1 or something like that that had loopers in it for a chainstitch.The needle plate area is much larger that a 15 cl.I do not have a clue what the part would do in the front that they added on.After somebody done it they probably found out it didn't do what they wanted & they probably messed the machine up doing it so they decided to see if they could dump it on someone else. I wouldn't pay over $10.00 for it,it does have a good handwheel. Bob
  3. We have them as small as #21 in a leather point. This is a good machine but to be honest with you it would be better for nylon than leather as it has feed dogs that will leave teeth marks on the bottom of the leather. Bob
  4. And that's what they call progress,alot of them went to a more square looking casting,Puritan,Pfaff,Adler,Singer (look @ the 31-15 vs 331K1) Bob
  5. If you do find a used machine keep us posted with the make & model # & we'll let you know if it'll work for you. You may want to check out leasing options,we've been doing quite a few of them lately. Bob
  6. I'm @ the Sheridan show & won't be back in the shop until the 24th.What do you want to sew? And or how thick & thread size? Bob
  7. Dan, The roller foot makes it easier to make straight stitches than a walking foot because heroller has constant pressure on the leather & the walking feet are lifting up & down which will will be harder to guide in a straight line. Bob
  8. Both the previous posters are correct,the 7-class Singers are great machines for certain types of sewing but leather isn't one of them ,they have very large feet that limit how close to hardware you can get,bottom feed only will leave awful looking teeth marks & being a flat bed. We used tio sell them years ago & found out they aren't the best machine for leather. You need a cylinder arm machine that a table can be added for flat sewing & then it needs to have a walking foot needlefeed so you won't have teeth marks on the bottom. Consider your sewing machine as the most important tool you need in leather working & choosing the wrong one will really spoil all the fun you can have in the hobby. Bob
  9. They are good machines as long as you don't want to sew real heavy(over 5/16") or use anything bigger than #92. HTH Bob
  10. Yes,needles are still available for it but they sell for around $5.00 ea so you don't want to break many.
  11. They were made for sewing shoe soles on,you might be ale to use ut on knife sheaths but there's no way to sew much else other than along the edge of something. Needles are pretty pricey too. Bob
  12. You machine is identical to what we sell & it should make a nice tight looking stitch.The most common problem is people forget to wrap the thread around the side (or second) tension 1 & 1/2 times.You have to do this as this tension is a rolling tension & doing it that way makes the thread grip the roller better. HTH Bob
  13. Here's the threading. Bob
  14. These are great hints,you also want to make sure the takeup lever is all the way up when you stop & start. Bob
  15. Hello, It looks like a machine Chandler used to import years ago,we used to sell alot of them,the problem is the shuttle & bobbins were just alittle smaller than standard 29 machines. Bob
  16. Well the tension unit is supposed to create tension & usually it needs to be real tight,now if it's getting stuck are you saying it won't pull out at all? Or is it breaking the thread?
  17. The .055 should be a #22 or metric#140 Bob
  18. We stock them in #18,19,20,21,22. Bob
  19. If your thread isn't pulled in between the tension discs it'll do this everytime. Bob
  20. The best thing to do is take all the stuff off the top of your table,turn it upside down,take the new motor & line it up with the belt slot & mark it & drill from underneath,mount motor & flip table over & re-install the stuff you took off,hookup belt & have fun. Bob
  21. Hey Jeff,I'm glad to hear you got the machine & everything is going great. Thanks so much for the kind words & thanks so much fer being a great customer! Bob
  22. The safety clutch kicked out & the spring that fell out goes behind the fish hook looking part of the clutch,so the way to reset it it,lay the machine back so you can look at the belt pulley,push the fish hook part towards the matching cutout part on the collar & then push the button on the bed(the one on the right)down & turn the handwheel backwards & it'll re-engage it.If it's tight you should put some oil around the hook & rock the handwheel back & forth to get it released. Bob
  23. The Sewpro servo is different than standard serovs most people sell as it will run alot slower since it has a builtin gear reducer in it.To get the speed as slow as this one with a regular servo you'll need to buy a speed reducer & then try lining everything up when you install it.Oh, the speed reducers sell for around $125 add that to $130.00 or so for a Servo & the Sewpro is a better buy. We been selling alot of lately & alot in stock. Bob
  24. Is this a 110W125? What did you want to sew when you bought this machine?You know it only makes real short stitches.What kind of motor is on it?Servo motor or clutchmotor? Bob
  25. I always tell people to just use the clear oil on the whole machine.I've already had machines in that people use grease & seen roller get flat spots on them when the grease dries out.So just oil it ever 8 hrs use or if it sets a while oil before using it. Don't forget to oil the shuttle everytime you use a bobbin of thread,just a drop somwere on the edge of the hole that it sets in. Bob
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