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CowboyBob

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Everything posted by CowboyBob

  1. It looks like a great job there,better than handcrankin it?Have you ever ran one of those machines much?I've always wondered how they hold up? Bob
  2. Okay, Here's a sample underneath sewn on the same CB 4500 S needle on left & D on right. Bob
  3. Since this is the needle section I frequently ask abiout needle points here is a comparison of the D vs S point of Schmetz #1 being the S point & you can see how much finer the needle hole looks .You can plainly see the larger hole in sample#2 that is because there's a cut on the side the S point only make a cut parallel with the line of stitching with alot smaller hole.These were both done w/#277 thread & #25 needle. Bob
  4. Ricardo, Your very welcome,I always try to do the best I can. And if you ever have any questions please call anytime. Thanks, Bob
  5. We have them along with the matching needle plate & feed dog if needed. Bob
  6. Art, You are correct the Pfaff uses the 134-35 & the 135x17 is like 1 mm different & seem the work as well.NOW what I was refering to is the needle package he shows in the picture is the 134 aka 135x5,135x7 which is 11/2" long are the wrong ones for this machine & I felt that that is the one he's using in his machine(since there in the pic) & it looked like the needlebar almost hits the foot & he should adjust for the longer correct needle. Bob
  7. It will not make a difference on your tension but you are using the wrong needle for this machine if you notice the one pic where the needlebar is almost hitting the foot,well as you sew & go over a heavy seam it will hit & break off your needlebar thread guide.You need to have a 135x17 or 135x16 which is a leather point & the correct needle for this machine which is 1/4" longer & will require theneedlebar to be raised up 1/4" then it won't hit the foot. Bob
  8. If you try to make the 135x16 work on a 31-15 you will have to take the needlebar thread guide off & everytime you change needles the needle clamp will fall off,the 135x16 are 13/4" long & the correct needle is 1/1/2" long. Bob
  9. None of the 7's ever had needle feed,this one has a walking foot,it would probably sew the belts ok but it's a little to big of a machine f/wallets & thinner sewing.
  10. http://parts.singerco.com/IPpartCharts/7-1_to_7-55.pdf
  11. There is alot of different models of the 7 class,probaly close to 80,I don't remember seeing a 7-30,do you have a pic? Bob
  12. It can be tweaked a little & get close to 3/8" footlift but it'll never sew that thick & the largest thread is #138. The is a shortarm version of a 31-15 w/a viabrating foot, Bob
  13. I put it on a 29-4 b4 I shipped it & had to move the wheel out on our machine but then Singer has a few different wheels. It's great you got it working,alot easier then winding them by hand. Bob
  14. Chris, I'm glad you got the parts,couldn't the handwheel be moved? Bob
  15. We have some Orange 207 nylon. Bob
  16. The Ferdco 440 is the same as the Cowboy Model#2500 we sell & they take a standard needle & will sew up to 7/16" thick & will a heavy thread.They just have a bottom feed in them that can leave teeth marks on the underneath side of the leather. It's the 97-10 you can't find needles & parts for.
  17. Here you can see the roller in the cam that runs the zigzag. I want you to know I am no expert on these machines,I have worked on them alot & reair & get them sewing but when it comes to doing the change you want to do I think it would be cheaper just to get the machine you want in the first place.I seem the remember asking Consew about these parts before because we wanted the change the 2 step to a 3-step & I think the parts were around $7-800.00 5 yrs ago. Bob
  18. The 199R-2 & 3 machines have the cam on the outside ,the shafts are longer for both the cam & the cam following lever, You will also have the change the gear on the inside,buy longer shafts,the lever & roller that rides in the cam too. Here's a pic of a 199R-2A machine Bob
  19. Ok, so the shafts are pinned,on the far right where the rod comes down to make the shuttle go back & forth sometimes this nut can loosen & the bolt can back out making play in the shaft.
  20. One last thing to check is take the bobbincase,aka shuttle out & spin the shuttle driver to the left & right to check for play in the gears.
  21. Hello,If it's making a loop on both sides I would say you need to advance the timing alittle,it's trying to make to big of a loop before the shuttle gets to the needle,also on the thicker leather you might need to tighten up the foot pressure so it can hold the leather down. Bob
  22. I hate to rain on your parade but the Singer 96 was made for sewing clothes for a Tailor,curtains & thin cotton material,it might sew 2 layers of soft chap leather but I think the machine is telling you your pushing it to hard to try & sew a harder thicker leather like the gun case. Bob
  23. David, Yes,that turned out to be ok we couldn't fix a few of them but I think we did OK on the deal. Art is right the 97's are big machines & parts are getting very hard to find & you can't even get needles for them anymore,it's a shame cuz I get people calling me all the time for them. As far as for the the China machines Juki parts will fit & I'm certain they will still be making them 10yrs from now so I doubt if parts will ever be a problem. They also take a standard needle. Bob
  24. We have one that will work that you can mount on a board & use a small motor & foot pedal off a household machine. Bob
  25. Yes,I remember that & we fixed one up for you & shipped it back to you,do you still have it? We sold all the ones you sent along time ago & have been out of them for a while it seems like there getting hard to find anymore,I did just get one yesterday. Bob
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