CowboyBob

What are you talking about?? Bob

I looked it up & that's all your going to get.You can see the chart what other models get for stitch length. Bob

Just for kicks I want to let you guys see a 98-3,which is similar to a 97-10 in many ways just smaller & alot easier to load.It was made for sewing tires when you recap them.Of course this was in 1915.It does have reverse though. Bob

Looks good, If you open the upper plate & look to the left of the timing belt,you might have to turn the machine around so you can see the little screw,there SHOULD be 2 in there,take the 1st one marked BB on the diagram & turn CC in as far as it'll go,reinstall lock screw BB & it will be as long as it can be.We can get a teflon foot for it that will reduce the drag of the steel foot or you could even just glue some teflon on the bottom of the feet to help. Bob

There is some models of the 132K made with roller feet.It could be made to fit by taking the outside flat bar off & then you might need to adjust the back pressure foot bar.This is a big machine for sewing thin material.The smallest needle made is # 18 so that would limit them to a #69 thread & that's a round point,I'm alsmost certain that leather points aren't made any smaller then a #22. Bob

Greg, I hope you can find some needles for the 97's because I can't. Bob

You know that's a great idea that everyone should do..have a machine for each color. Sounds like you still need another machine for the brown?? Bob

Yes,I forgot to mention he's correct the Cowboy has a tension release too.It's right underneath the first tension umit & is activated when you pickup the foot,it's a black lever. When you take off the end cover plate to oil the parts inside you need to make sure you line the pin up when you put in back on. Bob

Steve, Sounds like a good deal.Years ago when we sold Adlers we had a big problem with the Amish,when they sewed the heavy work tugs the needle would pull out.So what they did was grind a flat spot on the shank to hold it in.That screw just is to small to get it tight enough to hold.I've heard the newer machines have 2-screws on them,does yours? That's about the only fault on them but we always felt bad when we told people to put a flat spot on the needle to hold it in(Were ta;lking a $5,000.00 machine).We used to sell alot of those needle set screws too as they stripped out real easy.I could never understand why they couldn't put a larger screw on it like the 441's. We also would drill a 3/8" in the plastic @ the top of the takeup lever so you can see when the takeup lever is all the way up. Bob

What is the price on the timing belts? Bob

No,the top feed one is the best,but there is a few different manufactures of them. Does it look like a quality built machine?That is a real low price. Bob

To get good at running one you need to get some scrap & play with it @ turn the knob on top & the ones behind the foot (they change the angles) But there is no set adjustment like turn the knob x# of times to take 4oz to 1 oz as different leather will cut alittle different. I'm sure after you run it a while you'll know what to do alot easier. Bob

Turn the knob on the top down for more. Bob

The bobbin goes in so it turns counterclockwise. Oil anything w/hole & open the cover over the needlebar & oil all the pivoting joints in there too. Also oil the outer part of the bobbincase everytime you go to use the machine & or everytime you replace the bobbin. Open the top cover just to the left of the handwheel & you'll be able to see the raise part w/o oil hole in it . On these oiling diagrams,the oil spots are marked with arrows. Bob

Like Greg says it depends on the # there's a 211G157 needle feed w/reverse,but yes,in the walking foot machines I don't know of anything under 166. Bob

Ok,I found out the file is to large to upload here, so if you want to PM me your email address I'll email to you. Thanks,Bob

Do a search for Tippman Boss,you'll find out all about it.

Looping underneath is the top thread it's either to loose or not threaded correctly.

Here's a pic of the tension release bracket & the rod that pushes on the back of the tension unit,you need to see if this rod is moving foward when you lift the foot all the way up if so this bracket isn't broke, the bracket right behind the tension is adjusted by bending it alittle towards the back of the machine. You can shine a light into the side of your machine & look at this part & see if it's broken or not. Bob

Ok,the party that the bobbincase sets in is called the hook basket & it is held in place from spinning by a little tab of metal the top so take the needle plate off & look on the leftside & you'll see to U shpaed part on the basket & then the tab of metal it goes into on the leftside. Clear as mud?? Bob

Yes,you should clean off old locktite before you reuse a screw,acetone or contact cleaner will work on the screw & in the hole. Bob

The correct one for your machine doesn't have flat sides like the 15 class,they are very similar though enough that I guess they're working for you. I will check the difference in the thickness tomorrow & let youy know as we stock both. Bob

The largest thread this can use is #138 & sew to 3/8 more or less depending on the leather. The 206 bobbin goes in underneath & can use to#206 thread but it won't sew any heavier than the 255 Bob

The largest thread a 78 would sew is #138,if you want to PM me your name & address I can send you a short piece so you can compare. It's hard to tell from the pic but I'm almost certain they use alot larger on a mitt. Bob

The Singer 132 will sew alittle heavier & use thicker thread than the Juki but if your sewing chaps, purses,wallets & thin leather the Juki does have reverse