CowboyBob

Scott, Trox is correct in saying you can use the newer manual,your machine might adjust different but it still needs to look like the last page of the manual,it shows the shuttle driver & needle relationship. Bob

Doug, We have the slotted plate in stock that eliminates the feed dog & is great as it won't mark the bottom side. Bob

Char, I think one of these could be torn apart,cleaned ,painted & put back together in 10hrs. Yes,the 227 & the 206 feet interchange. Bob

That pin is a taper pin that you hammer out from the back ,you might want to put a small round pipe in front w/a hammer behind it then hit from the back. Bob

It's to bad your having a problem as that should be a good machine for you as long as you thread it & put the needle in correctly.We always try to get the customer to test the machine before it leaves & the we can also watch them thread it to make sure it sewing to their satisfaction,you should take it back & tell them it isn't sewing like it should & maybe it just needs some minor adjustment. Bob

Wiz, I doubt if the gears in these could take much more power,I haven't had any break yet & maybe that's why they keep it @ 300 w.? Bob

CustomDoug, We have put the 300w. Sewpro on our 3500 Cowboy & it works pretty good sewing to 3/4",BUT if your consistantly sewing 3/4"+ I would recommend getting a seperate reducer setup you'll have more torque & better speed control.We sell alot of the SewPros to people that have smaller machine like a 31-15,111W & etc they work great for these machines. Bob

I'll have to agree with Darren on this #1 you can't buy the parts(Singer hasn't had them for years) unless someone has a broken machine laying around,then when you get it done you'll have a machine that will sew just under 1/2" & will leave feed dog marks on the bottom of the leather. We converted some years ago & found out it's not real easy as some casting didn't have all the holes drilled & tapped for the screws & shafts that had to be put in them so it is alot of work to do.

The clear oil is the only oil that won't stain,the oil you got is possibly a littler heavier.Try a little test out some clear on a scrap piece of leather & next to it put some of the new oil on & let us know what happens. Bob

Wow!That sure looks like one we stretched years ago.My cousin is a machinist & we would strip all the parts out just take the shafts & bars to him,no needle plate & he was so good that when we put the needle bar in & went to line up the hole in the needle plate they hardly ever needed to be adjusted.He also put some allen screws on leftside for adjustment & made the casting a tight fit around the heavy walled tubing that we used to extend the arm. So, what size thread are you using?That will determine your needle size. On this machine you need to wrap the thread around the second tension(lower one) 1&1/2x We have a manual,needles & most other parts too. Bob Just for the heck of it could you tilt the machine back & take a pic of the bottom side & post it? Thanks, Bob

Ok,I took a pic here of a sample on a 2500,the first pic is right off the machine & the 2nd is after I rubbed it w/a spoon. Both pics are of the bottomside. Bob

I think your biggest problem is trying to use to 346 to sew so thin,you should try 138 or maybe 207 on the thinner leather.Your leather has to be thick enough for the threads to cross in the center. Bob

Those portables don't like the 138 thread. Bob

Josh, I'll be going to the show @ Wichita Falls next week on 9/30&10/1 & if you want to p/u there & save shipping let me know so I have one on board for you. Thanks, Bob

Ok,I took a pic here of a sample on a 2500,the first pic is right off the machine & the 2nd is after I rubbed it w/a spoon. I hope this helps you. Bob

Ken, Years ago we used to modify them to sew 3/4" of leather & sold alot of them,but from the factory as-is they'll do 1/2",it has a very large bobbin & can take large thread the biggest problem with them is the feet,they are large & will probably have to be narrowed down so you can sew close to things assuming of course you want to sew leather. We have most parts,needles & thread in stock for it. Bob

Hey guys I want to thank you both for the kind words & for buying a Cowboy machine from me.You both are great to work with. Bob

This is a pretty good machine f/leather & should use up to #138,some people use a size smaller in the bobbin & that works best if your sewing something & want a large thread for the look. Usually you should use the same size top & bottom.We do stock & can order all the parts for it. Bob

FWIW both the 145 & 545 have gear drives in them for the hook,the 1245 has the drive belt & just a set of gears below the bobbin. Art is correct too! I just ordered a set of gears for under the bobbin f/a 145 & they are $120.00.the hook(a good brand) runs around $200.00,most of the feet,feed dog,needle plate are after market & less than $20.00 ea. Bob

Trox, Years ago we used to import 45K's & other machines from England & they seemed to be of good quality.Maybe some other models were made in lower quality factories?

Yes,it will work.When you get it you might have to loosen the tensions both on the bobbincase & top thread & then it work great. Bob

http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25239

The first machines in the 1850's were all bullet shuttle until Wilson invented the rotary shuttle,which is faster & smoother running than then the bullet style,as to way Singer made them both I'd say that he felt that's all some people would buy since that's what they are used to & then some people are open to the lastest & greatest. Singer ended up buying out Wison & refined his machine & that is how we know have the 111w ,144w & countless other models.

That's really neat,I scrolled down & found this on the same site http://www.chholderby.com/tips-tricks-and-help/lockstitch-formation/ It might help people understand why the have to hold the first couple of stitches when they start sewing.