CowboyBob

Well the vid needs alittle more light on it for me to be sure but it looks like your threading the needle wrong it's supposed to go from the left to the right,also the long groove of the needle needs to be on the left.

Forget about the Consew 290 & get the 225 which is a clone of the 111w155.I like them better than a 211 since they have a larger handwheel & are easier to slow down.

If you let me know the model# & problem I'll try to help.

The 31-15 might be a better starter machine then a 29 since the 29's are top feed,meaning the foot pull the leather (they have teeth on them and will leave marks) I know alot of people that use a 31-15 for leather w/a roller foot & we stock all the parts,needles& thread for them as for the 29's too. If you have any questions about any particular machine give me a call. Bob Kovar

Hello,I used the sell the Nationals & have the correct case for you.

Doug, Pull the knob & stitch adjuster shaft out & put it in there, yes,around 6" long.We put a small bend in them (the shaft) so they don't slide out.

Doug, You could get a piece of roundstock long enough to go past the hole & then you won't need to worry about that broken off piece of screw just tighten on the flat spot of the round piece you put in there.

MJS,We have modified alot of 7's over the years & even have added reverse to them,the high lift invovles taking the needdlebar & pressure bar off & cutting approx 3/8" of metal off the bottom of the casting that they run through since this is the contact point when lifting higher. If you look @ the hand lifter & notice the thin piece of metal on the side you notice a gap @ the bottom,stick screwdriver in the gap & you'll notice it'll lift higher,this slot @ the bottom is what we fill in & as you lift it higher you'll see where it starts hitting.

I'll try to explain it,the feed cam @ the top pivots towards & away from the shaft as you turn the knob in & out because the end of the shaft is tapered to a point,so since the threads are srtipped you can just push the stitch length adjuster in all the way & then go in through the top cover & there should be a small screw to take out & a longer one that you can turn in or out to adj. the stitch length.The short screw locks the longer one from turning when sewing. I can get a new top shaft & most other parts if needed.

Those taper pin should drive out from the back we also put a small piece of metal (block)in front with a hole(for the oin to go into) in it to absorb the shock of the hammer blow & use a steel punch from the back & then you don't have to be afraid to give it a good whack,they are usually pretty tight.

Steve's right on this one,it should be a taper pin,it sounds like somewhere over the years someone lost the pin & jammed bolt in it.It should eventually turn out.

Now that I see the parts list I can tell you that you'll need the teeth on the feed dogs to pull the leather through.This machine has a hopping foot & is more suited for sewing buffing wheels,nylon webbing & things like that where marking isn't a concern. A single toe foot could be make from cutting one off a double toe,I can check w/Adler & let you know the price.

Toma, If you want to send me your email address (PM) I have a parts list for you & we also stock the needles,thread & have a roller foot that will fit on your machine that will help feeding the leather through better for more consistant stitches.

Hello, Yes a 269w8 will work for this it goes from 1.6mm - 4.0mm width & 3.2-16.9 in length

I just thought I'd add that it's a good machine to start out with & most parts are still available including a roller foot ,nylon foot(narrow& wide) & leather needles. This machine will use # 69 & I have some people using #92 nylon thread on it.

So you ask what it's worth repaired,I say $6-800.00 depending on overall condition since it has a reducer & table .

Jim, Sure that's what I like people to do so we can match it up for you.

Bruce, That is very well put.The info available on this board is priceless. As a dealer for almost 30 yrs I started out selling New Adlers 205-370 for $4,800.00 & had people calling all the time for used ones,(we did sell alot of new ones).theones we did find brought from $3,800-$4200. We managed in 2003 to buy 7-Juki 441's in great shape that we sold f/$3,695.00. Now in 2009 I still get calls for used machines since people still don't want to spend the $$ f/a new one,they just don't come in,I think if someone closes up,sells out,retires someone always comes along a snags them up. So if you want a machine I'd say the time to buy is now before they go up.

Just thought I'd mention that I have what people have been asking for.A DC motor with a built-in reducer,which mounts like all the other motors but eliminates the lining up & drilling holes required when mounting a reducer & motor separately and for less $$ too.

Hold on to your needle thread the first 3stitches & if the tension is correct it'll sew.

I look through some parts list I have & have a feeling that it is a Singer # for both parts but I can't find them,so if you ever found a parts manual for the 45KSV49 you find them in there.That's probably what made it a SV machine

I've seen them on other machines like the champion & landis #1 have them & there called pricker feet,they push the thread down deeper in the stitch & they are matched for your stitches per in so you had to match the foot w/stitches pr in. I've never seen this part for a singer 45K,does it have a singer part # on it?

Wayne, I'm glad the hear you got your machine going, Knut,that's a great buy & it's even better if you get extra parts as those flat needle plates are almost extinct here.

yes,you can use a single needle if needed but the foot will be wide unless you buy one & grind it,is it sews ok it should be worth $290.00 If you want to slow it down.We now have a DC servo motor w/a built in reducer that mounts on the standard 3-holes as any other motor for less tha buying the two seperate & it's alot easier to install.

It should handle 8-10 oz thickness of leather. They are used alot for belts,dog collars & etc. Guage parts are cheap too if you want to change the distance between needles.