CowboyBob

The big difference is the 225 has a small bobbin & no reverse & all 563 have a big bobbin but not all 563's had reverse. Otherwise they both will sew the same thickness.

Just thought I'd mantion that all the parts are still available for these machine & it would be a great machine f/Chaps,it'll use 46,69 & 138 thread.

Hello James, Yes,it has a walking foot & we have all the parts in stock for it. Good luck, Bob Kovar

I'll agree w/Art that for holsters you might be pushing it some but I have alot of customers that use the heck out of the 31-15 making chaps & sewing boot tops.I have a roller & a nylon foot that will help the leather feed through & almost every part is still being made for it too. Put a DC Servo w/a gear reducer on it & you might be suprised how nice a stitch it'll make. Bob

I have a Singer book which lists all the models of these 45B machines,I would scan it but it would probably break the binding so here's the list of models. 45B6BT=bottom feed ,flatbed 45B6C= same as above,cyl.arm 45B7BT=needlefeed,flatbed 45B7BC=same as above,cyl.arm 45B8BT=walking foot needlefeed,flatbed 45B8BC=same as above,cyl.arm

I feel that when a machine has alot of rust & nicks in the paint that after all the work & parts we put into them that if they don't look as nice on the outside as the inside that we might as go ahead & paint them. Usually most 29-4's are sp old that they need paint,now if you just want to keep the machine & use it then it'll get nicked up anyways,so I guess it's up to you. Bob

The 45B is a Consew 756 & it should sew up to 3/4" & has a walking foot needle feed ,BUT there isn't any other feet or needle plates available for it other than standard.It takes the same shuttle & bobbins as 441's & Adler 205-270's Bob

We sell the GA-5 & have alot of the parts for them ,feed dog will fit ok,the needle plate screws don't lineup so they need to be elongated alittle. As for what goes in those screw holes I've worked on alot of 45's & never seen them holes before,if they are factory(which I doubt) maybe it had some kind on race cleaner on it something like a piece of metal with some felt on the end. Alot of home machines have them.

Ruus, Bill brought up a good point,dirt,it is just like grinding your machine & I have some customers that won't sew blankets anymore because of it.They got tired of buying parts,it seems like no matter how much oil they put into the machine parts would wear pretty quick,even though they were washed. Bob

Most threads will require a size 22 needle to sew#138

Your machine just has a bottom feed that pulls the material through,an uph machine has a walking foot & needlefeed on it where the needle,center foot & feed dog all 3 go back as it's feeding ,I have sewn 2" of foam on this type of machine when I'm demostrating them & they pull it through w/o any problems.Since the needle is in the goods when feeding back it cannot slip while sewing.

Hello Shooter, you mention that it isn't sewing correctly at all,so what is it doing?

I've done alot of cast iron repair & like to weld using nickle rod,grind & preheat,I have seen alot of machines bazed either way if done properly should hold. I do have some bobbins in stock & will let you know tomorrow what I have.

What else did you do?Did you unthread the needle to wind a bobbin or did you change the needle?

The best lube is regular clear sewing machine oil,do not ever put grease on a roller it'll build up in front & cause it to stop turning & make a flat spot. We have the round leather belts in stock for it. Here's some info on the 29's which is what yours is it just has an open back,different bobbin winder & hand lifter & handwheel are different & the top arm is smaller which they improved on the newer 29's with the added strength of the bridgework. They were also called U.F.A. for Universal Feed Arm

I think those suspenders you sewed are close to the max for this machine,the largest thread you can use is #92 in it. Bob

Jim, We have a D.C.Servo motor that has a built-in reducer that should mount in the same 3 holes that your table has for the 3-phase motor for less $$ & it'll work better because when you have a motor & reducer separate you have to slide the belt off to tilt the machine back. Let me know if you have anymore questions. Thx, Bob

A 29K in good shape should use up tp #138 w/a #22 needle.

Hello Kate, I remeber you bought some parts from me a couple of yrs ago f/your Landis. I get a few calls a year for a shuttle for these #1 & they are very hard to find,I know an Amishman that has one once in a while & can check w/him & let you know. Bob

Katy, When I was talking to Russ about a roller foot I was refering to the Mach1 which has the feed dog on the bottom & will leave marks on most leather.I'm not bashing the 29-4 as they are great little machines & very handy,we sell quite a few of them every year,I also know about loosening the foot tension but you have to be careful as it's a fine line to keep it where it'll still feed & not skip stitches & not mark & if you sew thicker it will need to be tightened alittle more.There's the fact that some leather have a harder finish & are more tolerant of the teeth on the foot. Bob Kovar

Art, your correct it's a 144w,at least it has reverse. Bob

Sam, Your Welcome,We are a Consew Dealer & have alomst all the parts in stock for it too,along w/needles & thread. So let me know if you have anymore questions. Bob Kovar

Yes,it'll handle thin leather like you want to sew,there is some things available for it like a nylon foot & a roller foot that will help feed the leather through,we also have leather point needles & it will use#46 & #69 thread. Let me know if you have anymore questions as we are a Consew Dealer. Bob Kovar

This pic should help,it's screw marked AC.Click on the pic & it'll open up larger. Bob Kovar

Wiz, I have some needles in sizes#2,3 & 4 @ a good price. Let me know if you need any. Thanks, Bob Kovar