CowboyBob

Hold on to your needle thread the first 3stitches & if the tension is correct it'll sew.

I look through some parts list I have & have a feeling that it is a Singer # for both parts but I can't find them,so if you ever found a parts manual for the 45KSV49 you find them in there.That's probably what made it a SV machine

I've seen them on other machines like the champion & landis #1 have them & there called pricker feet,they push the thread down deeper in the stitch & they are matched for your stitches per in so you had to match the foot w/stitches pr in. I've never seen this part for a singer 45K,does it have a singer part # on it?

Wayne, I'm glad the hear you got your machine going, Knut,that's a great buy & it's even better if you get extra parts as those flat needle plates are almost extinct here.

yes,you can use a single needle if needed but the foot will be wide unless you buy one & grind it,is it sews ok it should be worth $290.00 If you want to slow it down.We now have a DC servo motor w/a built in reducer that mounts on the standard 3-holes as any other motor for less tha buying the two seperate & it's alot easier to install.

It should handle 8-10 oz thickness of leather. They are used alot for belts,dog collars & etc. Guage parts are cheap too if you want to change the distance between needles.

The Pfaff 331 is almost the same as the Consew227 except the parts don't interchange. Nakajima was bought out by Juki a long time ago & they changed alot of the model# & also some of the parts so you might have trouble getting parts for it unless it's a model they still make under a different model#.

Hey Ben, That looks real nice now if you get your parts I sent you can try her out? Bob Kovar Toledo Ind Sewing Machine Sales Ltd

It's a good machine for thinner leather using #46,69 or 92 thread would be the largest it can handle.It has 5/16" foot lift w/hand lifter & 1/2" w/foot lifter. narrow arm good for shoes,hatshandbags & etc,has a walking foot & needle feed. Let me know if you have anymore ? Bob Kovar

They are a copy of the Adler 105-64 needle feed, made in Japan & will sew just under 1/2" Bob Kovar

The "K" stands for UK as in Made in England,the SV means special version that only Singer knows what it was made for they changed a few parts for a special application. It's good you got some extra parts since they are getting very hard to find. Bob Kovar

I'm also an Adler Dealer & have a flat needle in stock & can help you w/any other parts you might need. thx, Bob Kovar Toledo Ind Sewing Mach Sales Ltd 1-866-362-7397

Regis, I know they work great,we sell them too & have most sizes in stock for a less $$. Bob

Hey Ryan , I'll keep it out for the next time your here & you can get a real up close look. Bob

Yes,it should be level & maybe they were pried together?? it looks alittle to narrow. The best way to check it is put it back together,thread the machine w/bobbincase in it & hold on to the needle thread ,roll machine over & with the head tilted back you can see if it catches as the thread passes through.Loose top ten will also cause this & to large of thread sp what size are you using Bob

The feet for this machine only fit the 11 & 7 class,it'll still work ok if you grind off on side as long as your sewing heavier leather that won't lift with the foot (like chap weight) We do have standard feet like your in stock if you ever need the double toe. I have sold alot of these machines over the years & know they aren't as smooth as the newer ones but they'll still get the job done. Bob Kovar Toledo Ind.Sewing Machine Sales

Fred, I used to sell them 20 yrs ago as a lower priced alternative to Adler & they never held up like they should & no feet from any other machine will fit so you'd have to get them made special. So for alittle more $$ you can get a machine that you can get feet & acc for. The price seems alittle high. Hope this helps you. Bob Kovar

That's a ggod price & it'll sew close to 3/8" w/#138 if needed. PM me for info on feet & parts. thx, Bob

Cheryl, Before you start playing with timing you should try some #138 on this machine #277 is way too big,I've found that's the max it'll use on leather. Bob

I had the same problem once years ago when I sold a harness plate to a customer that bought a Juki 441 from me yrs ago.I must of spent 5 hrs on it (shimming front cover & etc)& put the standard plate & feed dog back in it & that cured it. My theory is the slotted plate too much drag in rev. Bob Kovar

You'll need to take the side plate off the needle end of your machine & look on the pressure bar you'll see a set screw loosen it & push the part down that the screw is in. Do this with the roller foot on & this will make the foot work. It's the only one (roller fooot)you can get for it. HTH, Bob You'll need to take the side plate off the needle end of your machine & look on the pressure bar you'll see a set screw loosen it & push the part down that the screw is in. Do this with the roller foot on & this will make the foot work. It's the only one (roller fooot)you can get for it. HTH, Bob

Well it's just that down the road if you need a needle plate ,feed dog,shuttle or race you can't get a new one.So if you treat it careful & oil it often you should do ok. Bob

They are a good machine until you need parts,many parts are no longer made. Bob

Hey Folks, Ths is what Art said when I posted my own info kast year so why is it ok for him to do it?? Bob Hi Bob, If you want to sell here, do it in Marketplace. Otherwise PM her and keep it off the main board. I let the first one go by, but that is enough. It is ok to help with answers to questions, etc., but any mention of your business should be done in a PM. Art Moderator

The stitching will look better when you use the cutting point in leather it makes look like it's pulled down more & depending on the point will make it straighter looking if you use the S-point,they also have a RTW & Ltw that will give the stitching a twist between the stitches.The round points are better for repair work & nylon webbing. HTH, Bob