CowboyBob

Allan, I'm in Ohio & if you want to give me a call monday I probably have the parts & have a DC Servo motor w/a built-in reducer that'll work great on your machine. Bob

Sounds like this machine has alot of history.We have almost every part in stock for it including the spring you need. Give us a call 1-866-362-7397 Bob

It will help if you post a pic.

This is a Landis#1 a great old machine. On the Pfaff take the upper tensions discs aprat & look for thread in between them,then when you put it back together thread it & make sure that the tension is so tight that you can just barely pull on the thread then test sew & set your tension from there. If this machine isn't threaded correctly it'll do just what your saying too,so when threading make sure the thread is pulled down into the tension discs. Bob

Natalie, I hate take over but since we are an Adler dealer I just wanted to let you know that the 30-70 will sew to 3/8" thick leather & your right that with the small arm it'll get in tight places but it has a top foot feed only & the teeth will mark the top of your leather. Bob

It's a shoe repair machine that has teeth on the bottom of the foot & parts are unavailable for it.(the factory got bombed & never rebuilt) Bob

Your Welcome Bob

On the needles it's hard to tell from the pic what you have,if you took it from the pointed end it would help,but on the needles the rounded point ones are used in vinyl & cloth,the leather points will have like a knife edge on them(they won't be round)they make a better looking stitch in leather. The bobbincase is broken & not for this machine. The feet one has finer teeth than the other so it won't leave has deep of marks on top of the leather. Last yes,the bobbins are small that's why these machines are used for repair work where you don't have long runs of sewing & the best thing to do is use the smallest thread you can to go further. Bob

Well it's either the timing has slipped (doesn't happen often)or the upper thread is to loose or not threaded correctly,is the thread pulled down through the top tension once in a while it gets behind instead of through it, Maybe you need to tighten the needle thread tension alittle more to get it to pull up. HTH, Bob

They use 29x3 or 29x4,they probably sold you 135x17 which is also the same length approx 1.75" long,what problems are you having with it? Bob

Are you sure the thread is around the 2nd tension 11/2 times?It's a common mistake. Bob

Wow, I hope I can answer all your ? Just put a4-5drops of oil everywhere then 1 drop each time you oil in the future.I know the wicks are dirty but just oil them too & they'll be ok. Leather belts will stretch so yes ,you'll need to shorten it alittle. There is usually an oil post on each end of the motor & probably a couple more holes on the clutch shaft & on on the pivot arm the runs the clutch just a couple of drops in each. We do stock the needles in both leather & round points for this machine & also have all the parts,feet & etc for it too. Let me know if you have any more questions. Bob

How close is the needle to the shuttle?It needs to be as close as it can get w/o touching this is adjusted by loosening the screw just above the needles set screw & moving the needle clamp to the right if needed.Also you need lower the needlebar all the way down & check that the spring up there on the leftside is touching the needlebar sometimes they are broken or bent & will also cause skipping. How does the point of the shuttle look?Is it blunt? trade w/your other macvhine & see if it works better. We stock alot of parts for these machines along w/needles & thread. Bob

The parts are different on your machine than the 29k58 but the oper man should be the same. The machines had weak little gears on them w/small teeth that get chipped from use & will eventually break,the best way to check is lay it on the backside & take the plate off the bottom under the shuttle & look @ the gears but try to be careful thatthey don't fall out or you'll have a problem retimng the shuttle. The worst thing about them is you can't get the gears for them anymore but,they are good to keep for parts the whole needlebar end & casting will work on a 29k58,70,71&73 Bob

Your right the 45K is a great machine to learn on & if your like my customers you'll really apreciate the new Cowboy when you get it. So you don't need this 133K just try to save your $$ for that new machine. Bob

It's a 133K3 if youlookup that # I'm sure you'll find something.It can sew about the same as a 45K only it can sew @ a higher speed if needed because it has a rotary hook,alotof parts are still available for it,but not the case f/45K It can sew maybe 3/8" or alittle more. Bob

These 17's are pretty good machines but the largest I've ever gotten them to sew wproperly is #138.I do have needles & thread in stock. Bob

Todd, It should be in the center of the groove & the feed dogs are made with either a round hole or an oblong one-the most common.So check to see if the screws are loose if not the you need to try to figure out what moved so does the feed dog come up & when it goes back & starts to go down is it the same distance or gap from the plate to the feed dog? Bob

Dana, We it's alot more than what I thought $135.00 for the complete knee lift assembly that mounts under the table. You might want to ask the people you got it from if they might have it. Bob

Dana, I don't have any used ones but will give Pfaff a call tomorrow & let you know the price. Bob

It looks like you figured out the problem the legs on a Pfaff knee lifter are longer & the finger that pushes against the lever on the machine has a roller on the end that lets it get all the lift that this machine has. Let me know if you interested in getting the correct knee lifter for it since we are a Pfaff Dealer. Bob

The Singer 211 is a better machine for uph or canvas than leather do to the small flywheel that makes it harder to slow down. If you put a standard DC Servo on it you'll find you'll still be running to fast so then you'l have to add a speed reducer ok so now your over $225.00 I just wanted to let you know that we have a DC Servo with a builtin reducer that will slow your machine down w/o any problems for less $ and bolts up to the standard 3-hole standard mounting. Bob

If that machine will work for you it's about $100.00 more than they usually sell for,are you sure that's the machine you need?It won't use a thread larger than #138 & on Holsters like most leather sewing people want to use larger thread than that,not that it's needed for strength but larger thread really helps to sell your product beacuse it looks better.I'd say you need to use at least #207 or 277 to make them look right & there's no way this Tacsew can sew with it. Bob

Welcometo the greatest site for a leatherworker.You'll sure be able to learn about the craft here.

I've seen quite a few of these over the years & USMC is one name that comes to me,I know there's others. They were made for just what you call it a hole puncher for any leather item that needed some holes,different sizes of dies were also available for different sizes of holes & shapes like round & oval. THe are also known as a perforator. I'm sure the company that made it is long gone so if you want dies or something you'll probably have to get them made. Bob