CowboyBob

Art, I think your getting the little 17 class mixed up w/a 11 class,the 17's will sew maybe 1/4" w/69or 92 thread. Bob

Bob, I consider myself lucky to sell one HD Flatbed like this a year.So I'm not real interested in it,maybe you can try ebay. Sounds like that Union is missed,they are pretty good machines as long as you know how to adjust them.

I can't find anything online describing that model. Can anybody here fill me in on the most important details about them? I need to know the capabilities for thread and needle sizes, needle system, bobbin style, thickness of leather it will sew, known issues, etc. Also, what a typical price would be for this machine (see photo). Hey Bob, It'll sew to 3/4"thick using up to#346 thread,it's the same machine sa a 205-370 just that it's a flatbed alittle less versatile,since if you have a cyl arm you can make it a flatbed,it takes the standard large sguttle bobbins,794S needles system. It looks to be in real good condition & sell for more $$ new than the cyl arm model since they don't make many of them.New I think they are around $6,000.00 ,I guess if you can live w/o a cyl arm it's probably worth $2,000.00 We have a brand new Cowboy flatbed 441 that'll sew the same thickness f/$2,895.00 They are a very well built machine & not many problems. HTH, Bob Kovar

This is a series 29 machine if it has an arm,There should be a brass tag on the front w/a model # on it & then some # stamped in the bed that are the serial#. The ones to stay away from are 29K51,53,56. We pretty much have all the parts is stock for the rest. The thing to look for is play in the foot (front to back) & play in the gears that drive the shuttle back & forth,so you take out the shuttle & push what's called the driver clockwise & counterclockwise & see how much play it has this will indicate the condition of the gears. Do these people know how to sew on it? If so try it out, The price is pretty good & I've seen the stands alone bring $150.00 Good Luck, Bob Kovar

Best Regards from Arild-are you in Sweden?

Hello, We stock the needles in #14,16 & 18 & also have some #46 & 68 nylon thread too. Bob Kovar

MikTigger, Have you checked how close the needle is to the shuttle?Do you know it's adjustable by using the screw above the screw that holds the needle in?You loosen it & it'll move left to right & it needs to be as close as you can get w/o touching,this allows you to adj f/different sizes of needles & thread comdos.

WOW,That's a great buy!! I have the parts. Bob

my email address is: sewmun@aol.com

Well it's a standard household type of machine probably one of the better built ones.I looked in one of my suppliers parts manual & can't find anything for but the bobbins,bobbincase & needles aren't a problem,the needle plate could be but f/$20.00 & it sews it sounds like a great deal! You shouldn't have any problems using #46 & 69 nylon thread. We do stock the needles in a leather point if you have trouble finding them. Bob

Doug, Here's a page with the diagram of the stitch length mechanism. Bob111w old style stitch length info.bmp 111w old style stitch length info.bmp

Doug, Here's a internal view of the stitch length adjuster ,the screw @ 9:00 is where the part slides back & forth when you adj the stitch either by turn the knob DD in & out or you can takeout screw BB & turn CC in f/longer & out f/shorter. Does your screw CC have the pin on the end of it?Also is DD all the way in when trying to adj? Let me know if you have anymore questions. Thx, Bob Kovar

Here's a pic of how the shuttle driver should look when it's all the way clockwise. You'll need to loosen the set screw underneath on the farside & turn the bolt to adjust then retinghten the screw. Miktigger,I think your thread is correct size,do you have any idea how old it is? Singer 29 Timing.bmp Singer 29 Timing.bmp

One thing to check is the spring on the needlebar,lower the bar all the way down & look underneath the head casting where it comes out & you'll see a flat spot there w/a flat spring on it,this spring is supposed to be seated against the needlebar & pinches the thread preventing it from being pushed backwards when the needle goes in the leather. This spring doesn't cost alot either,the hardest part is getting the pin out of the top of the needlebar to change it. MikTigger,you say your thread breaks @ the t/u lever,1st what size thread are you using?Is there any grooves worn in it?

Ginny, FWIW the machines of these type are supposed to be used for repair work not finish sewing.I have seen people do some pretty nice work on them but you have to rub out the marks. If the top foot doesn't mark the material then can't grab it enough to pull it through,I have known people that have ground off the teeth,you then may need to asist by pulling it & then it can also skip stitches if it gets too loose. I measured an Adler 30-1 here & it has 10mm arch under the center of the spring which is alittle over 3/8" Sure it's your machine & you can do what ever you want,it's just that I've been in this machine biz for over 29yrs & didn't want to see you damage the spring,Adlers parts aren't cheap,sure less arch will mark less but it'll still mark & then with less pressure it won't hold thicker leather down,this is why most Adler 30's will sew alittle heavier than Singers.

Claire, It's a good machine for chaps & thinner leather,we pretty much have all the parts in stock for it. It does have a walking foot& needle feed & is well worth $175.00 but like a car give it a test sew & make sure it sews ok,they are alittle tricky to time & etc.

John, Singer had a light that clamps on it.

Hawgman, I am an Adler dealer & checked with them & they sell for $235.00,how many would you like??LOL We have also cut down the standard industrial bobbinwinder & made them work for a lot less$$

Ginny, Don't bend the spring!There's probably some other reason it won't feed,loose ,worn parts maybe the foot is slipping on the leather,these machines weren't made for real precise sewing.Although I know alot of people that have done some fantastic sewing on them.

The 15x1& 15x2 are needles w/a flatside to them & they are made for home machines the correct needle is round @ the top,for the 31-15 we stock the 16x2 in #14,16,18,20,21,22&23

Well the vid needs alittle more light on it for me to be sure but it looks like your threading the needle wrong it's supposed to go from the left to the right,also the long groove of the needle needs to be on the left.

Forget about the Consew 290 & get the 225 which is a clone of the 111w155.I like them better than a 211 since they have a larger handwheel & are easier to slow down.

If you let me know the model# & problem I'll try to help.

The 31-15 might be a better starter machine then a 29 since the 29's are top feed,meaning the foot pull the leather (they have teeth on them and will leave marks) I know alot of people that use a 31-15 for leather w/a roller foot & we stock all the parts,needles& thread for them as for the 29's too. If you have any questions about any particular machine give me a call. Bob Kovar

Hello,I used the sell the Nationals & have the correct case for you.