CowboyBob

my email address is: sewmun@aol.com

Well it's a standard household type of machine probably one of the better built ones.I looked in one of my suppliers parts manual & can't find anything for but the bobbins,bobbincase & needles aren't a problem,the needle plate could be but f/$20.00 & it sews it sounds like a great deal! You shouldn't have any problems using #46 & 69 nylon thread. We do stock the needles in a leather point if you have trouble finding them. Bob

Doug, Here's a page with the diagram of the stitch length mechanism. Bob111w old style stitch length info.bmp 111w old style stitch length info.bmp

Doug, Here's a internal view of the stitch length adjuster ,the screw @ 9:00 is where the part slides back & forth when you adj the stitch either by turn the knob DD in & out or you can takeout screw BB & turn CC in f/longer & out f/shorter. Does your screw CC have the pin on the end of it?Also is DD all the way in when trying to adj? Let me know if you have anymore questions. Thx, Bob Kovar

Here's a pic of how the shuttle driver should look when it's all the way clockwise. You'll need to loosen the set screw underneath on the farside & turn the bolt to adjust then retinghten the screw. Miktigger,I think your thread is correct size,do you have any idea how old it is? Singer 29 Timing.bmp Singer 29 Timing.bmp

One thing to check is the spring on the needlebar,lower the bar all the way down & look underneath the head casting where it comes out & you'll see a flat spot there w/a flat spring on it,this spring is supposed to be seated against the needlebar & pinches the thread preventing it from being pushed backwards when the needle goes in the leather. This spring doesn't cost alot either,the hardest part is getting the pin out of the top of the needlebar to change it. MikTigger,you say your thread breaks @ the t/u lever,1st what size thread are you using?Is there any grooves worn in it?

Ginny, FWIW the machines of these type are supposed to be used for repair work not finish sewing.I have seen people do some pretty nice work on them but you have to rub out the marks. If the top foot doesn't mark the material then can't grab it enough to pull it through,I have known people that have ground off the teeth,you then may need to asist by pulling it & then it can also skip stitches if it gets too loose. I measured an Adler 30-1 here & it has 10mm arch under the center of the spring which is alittle over 3/8" Sure it's your machine & you can do what ever you want,it's just that I've been in this machine biz for over 29yrs & didn't want to see you damage the spring,Adlers parts aren't cheap,sure less arch will mark less but it'll still mark & then with less pressure it won't hold thicker leather down,this is why most Adler 30's will sew alittle heavier than Singers.

Claire, It's a good machine for chaps & thinner leather,we pretty much have all the parts in stock for it. It does have a walking foot& needle feed & is well worth $175.00 but like a car give it a test sew & make sure it sews ok,they are alittle tricky to time & etc.

John, Singer had a light that clamps on it.

Hawgman, I am an Adler dealer & checked with them & they sell for $235.00,how many would you like??LOL We have also cut down the standard industrial bobbinwinder & made them work for a lot less$$

Ginny, Don't bend the spring!There's probably some other reason it won't feed,loose ,worn parts maybe the foot is slipping on the leather,these machines weren't made for real precise sewing.Although I know alot of people that have done some fantastic sewing on them.

The 15x1& 15x2 are needles w/a flatside to them & they are made for home machines the correct needle is round @ the top,for the 31-15 we stock the 16x2 in #14,16,18,20,21,22&23

Well the vid needs alittle more light on it for me to be sure but it looks like your threading the needle wrong it's supposed to go from the left to the right,also the long groove of the needle needs to be on the left.

Forget about the Consew 290 & get the 225 which is a clone of the 111w155.I like them better than a 211 since they have a larger handwheel & are easier to slow down.

If you let me know the model# & problem I'll try to help.

The 31-15 might be a better starter machine then a 29 since the 29's are top feed,meaning the foot pull the leather (they have teeth on them and will leave marks) I know alot of people that use a 31-15 for leather w/a roller foot & we stock all the parts,needles& thread for them as for the 29's too. If you have any questions about any particular machine give me a call. Bob Kovar

Hello,I used the sell the Nationals & have the correct case for you.

Doug, Pull the knob & stitch adjuster shaft out & put it in there, yes,around 6" long.We put a small bend in them (the shaft) so they don't slide out.

Doug, You could get a piece of roundstock long enough to go past the hole & then you won't need to worry about that broken off piece of screw just tighten on the flat spot of the round piece you put in there.

MJS,We have modified alot of 7's over the years & even have added reverse to them,the high lift invovles taking the needdlebar & pressure bar off & cutting approx 3/8" of metal off the bottom of the casting that they run through since this is the contact point when lifting higher. If you look @ the hand lifter & notice the thin piece of metal on the side you notice a gap @ the bottom,stick screwdriver in the gap & you'll notice it'll lift higher,this slot @ the bottom is what we fill in & as you lift it higher you'll see where it starts hitting.

I'll try to explain it,the feed cam @ the top pivots towards & away from the shaft as you turn the knob in & out because the end of the shaft is tapered to a point,so since the threads are srtipped you can just push the stitch length adjuster in all the way & then go in through the top cover & there should be a small screw to take out & a longer one that you can turn in or out to adj. the stitch length.The short screw locks the longer one from turning when sewing. I can get a new top shaft & most other parts if needed.

Those taper pin should drive out from the back we also put a small piece of metal (block)in front with a hole(for the oin to go into) in it to absorb the shock of the hammer blow & use a steel punch from the back & then you don't have to be afraid to give it a good whack,they are usually pretty tight.

Steve's right on this one,it should be a taper pin,it sounds like somewhere over the years someone lost the pin & jammed bolt in it.It should eventually turn out.

Now that I see the parts list I can tell you that you'll need the teeth on the feed dogs to pull the leather through.This machine has a hopping foot & is more suited for sewing buffing wheels,nylon webbing & things like that where marking isn't a concern. A single toe foot could be make from cutting one off a double toe,I can check w/Adler & let you know the price.

Toma, If you want to send me your email address (PM) I have a parts list for you & we also stock the needles,thread & have a roller foot that will fit on your machine that will help feeding the leather through better for more consistant stitches.