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CowboyBob

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Everything posted by CowboyBob

  1. Well like any needle & awl machine when adj correctly they'll make a real nice looking stitch.But parts are getting harder to find yrs ago we stocked alot of things but they have all been sold & can't get anymore.We do have some used oarts left if needed. We do still stock needles & awls. Bob
  2. Well here's some info on it. Let me know if you have anymore questions. Bob
  3. Navy, If what Wiz told you doesn't work it's probably the tension release lever needs adjusting,or the pin in the center of the tension could be missing,this happens if you take the tension out.Take the end cover off the machine & look @ the picture,the part with the red dot on it pushes on the pin in the center of the tension unit when you lift up the foot. Once in a while they need to be bent alittle so it pushes on the pin. You can check by lifting the foot & watching it to see if it pushes the pin in when you lift the foot. Bob
  4. Lowering the feed dog won't help,you'll just get to the point where it'll stop feeding & then you might have to pull the leather through, remeber the teeth are there for a reason,to grip & pull the leather. This is what we always warn people about when they call about these,the price is good but it's real hard to get away from marking underneath esp on soft leather. Bob
  5. I looked his area code up & he's in Oklahoma City,OK
  6. We sell the same machine & have found out it's the drag of the foot that causes alot of the marking & now have a roller foot that fits on them & helps to feed the leather through. Lighter foot pressure will help too. Bob Kovar
  7. Mike, Hope this helps. Bob Kovar
  8. You need to use a #22 needle to sew #138,I have them in stock f/$4.00 a pk (10)+post. Bob Kovar
  9. [quote name='Gregg From Keystone Sewing' date='29 March 2010 - 01:47 Jim, For most leathers except real thin stuff like deer or something the needlefeed on this machine will pull the leather through & many times work smoother than a walking foot machine when sewing things like belts. The zipper feet are used to sew close to something on one the left or right side. Bob Kovar
  10. James, Sounds like a great buy. I know you'll probably be calling soon but,one thing to do is get some penetrating fluid of some kind & spray over all the dirty ares & then blow it off w/air,then oil all the moving parts with some sewing machine oil. Bob Kovar
  11. Wiz, This is great info,I have gotten many calls from people that have bought machines from people on ebay & if they were packed properly & didn't get broken by the time they got to the buyer,when they get them they either find out they are not the machine for them or they are wore out & needing some parts. Alot of times I think people are trying to save $$,they shop alittle & mainly buy by price & many times they get what they pay for. A sewing machine (quality ones) are built to last a long time & considering that a good looking product depends on it they shouldn't try to scrimp in buying one. When buying also try to make sure you can get parts for it,I get many calls for machine that parts aren't available for too,even a good machine like a 45K there's 80+ different subclasses,some parts interchange but things like needle plares & other parts aren't available for most of them so you either have to get them made or call all over the country & try to find one.This is another reason to investigate b4 you invest. Bob Kovar
  12. I doubt if it would,look for a machine where the bobbin goes in underneath. Bob
  13. Hope this helps you. Bob
  14. I've worked on alot of this model over the yrs & they won't handle leather very good,they always seem to have a weak,slow running motor. It is hard to change it too.Look for the old black Singers w/a small can type motor & the bobbin goes in underneath,these will sew someleather & take 46 & even # 69 thread.
  15. The needles probably have a twist point on them,look @ the point & you'll see that the point runs @ an angle to the stitching line causing this. A diamond point runs in line with the stitching & will give you a straight stitch. Some people like the zig-zag look.It looks hand stitched that way.
  16. James, The 211 would make a great machine for chaps & lighter leather.The 188k1 is more for sewing clothes & thinner stuff. Good Luck & if you have anymore questions let me know. Bob
  17. It's a 9/64-40 that you'll have to get from a sewing machine place. Bob
  18. The best thing to do might be just take the head off the stand & take it in they'd be tack welding on the top,sure it all comes apart but you'll probably have less trouble in the log run.
  19. It's hard to tell from the pic because when I click on them they are to big to get any detail,but it looks like the washer has come undone from the collar underneath,originally they were just peened over & maybe somebody worked on the machine in the past & didn't repeen good enough,I would push the lower part back into the upper part so it doesn't have any play but still turns around & just tack weld it in 4 spots. They call these machine shoe patchers for a reason,that's what they were made for,BUT I know alot of people have done some fantastic sewing on them & as already mentioned,some tape,rubber or grind off the teeh will stop the marking but will also stop the feeding of the leather making you have to push it through.
  20. The big difference is the 225 has a small bobbin & no reverse & all 563 have a big bobbin but not all 563's had reverse. Otherwise they both will sew the same thickness.
  21. Just thought I'd mantion that all the parts are still available for these machine & it would be a great machine f/Chaps,it'll use 46,69 & 138 thread.
  22. Hello James, Yes,it has a walking foot & we have all the parts in stock for it. Good luck, Bob Kovar
  23. I'll agree w/Art that for holsters you might be pushing it some but I have alot of customers that use the heck out of the 31-15 making chaps & sewing boot tops.I have a roller & a nylon foot that will help the leather feed through & almost every part is still being made for it too. Put a DC Servo w/a gear reducer on it & you might be suprised how nice a stitch it'll make. Bob
  24. I have a Singer book which lists all the models of these 45B machines,I would scan it but it would probably break the binding so here's the list of models. 45B6BT=bottom feed ,flatbed 45B6C= same as above,cyl.arm 45B7BT=needlefeed,flatbed 45B7BC=same as above,cyl.arm 45B8BT=walking foot needlefeed,flatbed 45B8BC=same as above,cyl.arm
  25. I feel that when a machine has alot of rust & nicks in the paint that after all the work & parts we put into them that if they don't look as nice on the outside as the inside that we might as go ahead & paint them. Usually most 29-4's are sp old that they need paint,now if you just want to keep the machine & use it then it'll get nicked up anyways,so I guess it's up to you. Bob
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