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CowboyBob

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Everything posted by CowboyBob

  1. Sounds like somebody took the hand lifter off,it mounts the same place as a 111w but it's shaped alittle different & it's longer,I'll check ointo it tomorrow & see if they are still avail;able. You'll get alot of foot lift with the foot pedal on this machine when you get it hooked up. Bob
  2. It should sew up to 3/4",use 207,277,346 thread & is a great machine.We bought 7 used ones 6 yrs ago & sopld em in 2-months they are hard to find used.We have all the parts in stock for them. Bob
  3. I'm glad you got it going.Do you know how to adj the stitch length?Let me know if you need anymore help as we are a Pfaff dealer. Bob
  4. Holly, B4 you start working on it,can you tell me the rest of the model# & tell me what needle ur using or the length of it will help. It's possible you have the wrong needle. Bob
  5. The largest we used to put in these when we sold them is #230. Bob
  6. The larger pulley will give you more speed & the smaller pulley more power. We always use a small drill to make the holes size#50 measures 0.070 Bob
  7. They are GREAT machines for thinner work. Have fun!! Bob
  8. At least you got a machine that you can get parts for.We pretty much have anything you might need for it. Bob
  9. Yes,the long arm bases are hard to find we need a couple ourselves,I just met a guy & Weaver's auction this yr that brought me 2-29's 1-shortarm & 1-longarm in the back of a horsetrailer they had the heads still on the stands(bad way to haul) & of course they were bouncing arond back there & broke the longarm stand in about 10 pieces. Oh,well at least the head didn't get hurt. Customdoug,yes the arm of your machine will be way out on the left side of the stand if you used a treadle base.We usually put them on a standard 20x48" flat top table with one of our DC servo motors w/a builtin speed reducer & they work great. Bob
  10. From what I can see in the machines that we have had to repair that customers bought from them they are a typical ebay seller that doesn't know how to setup a machine for leather they run to fast & don't sew right.I doubt if they even sew on them before they leave their shop as we have to go over them for a good hour or so to get them to sew properly. Bob
  11. It would probably work best to just make it on a flat top because it'll still have alot of room underneath the arm.We put alot of these on stands & sell the that way. Bob
  12. As long as your sure the needlebar is all the way down & when you hit rev & let off the handle the LESS it moves the better,for the achine to sew & feed the best it shouldn't ove at all. Also the partr we call the bobbincase position fingeer(the part that keeps the bobbincase base from spinning) seems to work best when it's pushed back towards the back of the machine. One last thing: are you sure the hook is timed correctly?if it is too slow inotherwords if you have to much rise on the needlebar when the point of the hook comes around it'll like to jam up like it's doing. Bob
  13. Ok, here's something else to check,if you put the needle bar all the way down & hit the reverse lever does the feed dog& needlebar move or stay still? Bob
  14. Hello, Well there can be a few different things that can cause this & one is like Twinoaks says some brands of threads stick to the spool as they come off & will cause problems like this,I've actually noticed the thread from the thread stand to the machine tighten up while sewing #3on the thread stand is the hooks above directly in line with the spool?if not that'll cause this too.#3are you threading around the 2nd tension 11/2x? this can cause intermitant tension,#4 bobbin case spring sometimeswill buildup with lint from the thread & needs to be taken apart & cleaned.#5 maybe this spring has been overtightened & ruined & needs to be replaced. .HTH Bob
  15. We got a real good deal on a bucn of these machines a couple of yrs ago & ended up buying 20 of them.We had a problem with the thread catching on the feed dog,so we replaced them with another style & they worked perfect. Bob
  16. I found out a long time ago to start out with the basics.So keep me posted. Bob
  17. Double check the threading & make sure the thread is pulled down in between the tension discs & don't forget to hold on to the needle thread the first couple of stitches. HTH, Bob
  18. Good Job!! Bob
  19. to the forum.The Tippman is a good starter machine as long as you can figure out how to sew with one hand & it doesn't take up alot of room. But for alittle more$$ you can buy a real cast iron & steel machine that will last alot longer & be easier to operate since the motor will run the machine & noy your hand. Bob
  20. Both your other answers by Wiz & Art are correct,but if you DO need a tacker like that I just though I'd let you know parts are still available for it. This machine is also used for sewing belt loops on jeans. Bob
  21. Russ, Yes,we have used machines too.But not any 1541 or 206's @ this time.We do have a few 562's&563's left they are like the 1508's Bob
  22. Johnny, This type of thing has been going on for years.Probably a guy named Paul had a sewing machine biz & got this machine & stuck his name on it & then closed up or retired & that's why you can't find any info. But to be honest w/you it looks like a taiwan or chinese knockoff of a consew 226. So it shouldn't be any problem getting parts & acc if needed. HTH Bob
  23. Russ, It should sew 10oz+ w/o much trouble.We sell alot of them & they are great machines.Just make sure to get the "S" model. Bob
  24. CowboyBob

    Newbie

    to the board,I'm sure if you have any questions they will be answered,there's alot of good people here. Bob
  25. Hey Guys, A word for the wise,the 29K51,53,56 all have real small & brittle gears in them that have been obsolete over 30 yrs.I get alot of calls for people wanting gears for them & have to tell them they have a parts machine.All the upper head parts are the same as the 29K58,71,71 which have larger gears in them that you can still buy & use this for parts. Hope this helps, Bob
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