CowboyBob

Greg,esp if the sail is still on the boat? Trox,I questioned that model# too,but the 145's I've seen all have 3)# after the wlike 101,204,305 never seen a single # Sometimes people also switch the tags too!So w/o a pic it'll be hard to help him. Bob

I've never seen a Pfaff 335 setup like that either.I did just get some Singers in that look very similar & Singer says they are for "horse boots & other concave or convex articles" Thay have a topfeed only. Bob

The Champion might do it as long as it still has the correct throat plate on it with the channel cutter on it.Years ago when we worked on these we always took em off because we were selling them as harness machines. Parts are real hard to find for these. Bob

It's to bad you can't post a pic cuz I'd sure like to see it.I know what a 145w101 is a double needle & heve seen alot of them but I've never seen a 145w with zig-zag. Bob

It doesn't have a walking foot,it's for tailors,drapes,slip covers.This machine is in the same family as the Singer's 241 & 281.It might be ok for chaps BUT they usually have a high speed motor on them so you'd have to change that. Bob

Steve, Twinoaks explained it & this is how we always used to setup a 97 years ago since it makes the belt have more contact with the pulley it won't slip as easy. Bob

The leather belt will grip better when crossed too! Bob

I usually try to take the easy way out & if you cross the belt going to the head this will let your reverse rotation motor run the right way,You might have to buy a longer belt or splice it.They grip better when crossed too. Bob

Great Video, He sure makes it look easy. Bob

The Pearsons are great machines that will sew a real nice looking stitch & will sew pretty thick leather.Does he have the treadle stand for it? That Necchi looks alot like your other machine you just bought so maybe pass on it & save your $$ for Pearson parts,in case it neds them. Bob

You might try making sure the needle is as close the the shuttle as it can be without hitting.The adjustment for this is the screw above the screw that holds the needle in,loosen this & you can push the needle holder left or right as needed. Also do you have enough foot pressure to hold the material down the your sewing? Bob

The Adler & the single needle Pfaff would work the best for you as they have walking feet & you can get cording feet for them.You can't get one for the double needle & it is only needle feed & won't do the job as good as a walking foot. Bob

Sandy, Get that Pearson as soon as you can,they are worth at least 2000 euros over here. Have any pics of the Necchi? Bob

Mick,here's an old post about the repar manuals http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=22758

Mick, The needle bar is supposed to go up 3/32" then the point of the hook is sup[posed to be @ the needle,you set this first then make sure the eye of the needle is approx 1/8" below the point of the hook as it crosses the needle,the hook point needs to be as close as it can be w/o hitting. Bob To change the hook timing you loosen the screw on the big gear & move it left or right as needed.

you'll see a wingnut on the pressure bar on the back loosen the screw & move it towards the center of the machine. Bob

I have a few customers with them Tacsews & have had to repair them.We had to wait a month to get a hook in.Wiz is correct STAY AWAY from them. Bob

Did you just get this machine?It's possible that the pin in the belt pulley cam could of sheared off or put in 180 off. Bob

Steve, It's a Durkopp 17 Class.The factory got bombed during the war & they have been made since.Parts are real hard to find as the bobbincase is smaller than a singer 29. Here's a pic of mine you can just barely read the name. Bob

Art, I agree with you on this,They have a master plan the same as someone else started in 1936 and the are suceeding w/o a war.........yet! Bob

If you tap it be careful were you hit it.Also put some oil all the way around were the bobbincase stes ,this will help loosen it up. You an call any time tomorrow 8-4 est time. Bob

The 147 is a chainstitch machine more for canvas than leather.It makes big loops on the bottom like what on a potato or dog food bag.Hardly what you want on the bottom of leather. Bob

Go to Singers website & they have a place to put in the serial # & it'll tell the age.They are great machines & you can still buy parts for them & they are easier to run than 226 style of machine. Bob

20-30 yrs ago all we had to sell were the Adlers & Juki's @ around $4,800.00 now let me ask..how many people here would pay that much for a 12" machine today? WHEN you can buy a machine for 1/2 the price w/a 16" arm that still will sew as thick as the Adler or Juki?Price sells I haven't sold a new Juki or Adler in maybe 7 yrs. 8 yrs ago I had some used Juki 441's & we sold the for $3,500.00 ea(they were real nice)but I doubt if I could get that for them today. SO the big question will the new Chinese machine last like the old Singers,Juki's & Adlers,only time will tell but if they last for 25yrs you'd still be ahead of the game. It would be great if somehow machines could be made here & they can except I'm 100% positive they would be at least $6,000.00 or more & considering Adlers aren't selling @ $5,000.00 anymore I don't think it's worth trying to build machines here. It also seems like most people are shopping price nowadays too.Heck I can't even sell a good used home machine for $50.00 because Walmart has new clunkers for $69.00 they won't last 6mon & people realize what they get after they take it back a couple of times or call me & I tell them I can't work on them because I know how there built & know they'll bring it back in a couple of days.needing retimed. There is difference in quality of machines coming from China & Walmart sells on price only,along with alot of the machines on ebay are the low quality type. & most Dealers on this board are selling quality machines that have been checked over before they are shipped. SO that's my $.02 Bob

The problem was the fact that it wasn't threaded correctly so it jammed up the hook.What you need to do them is put some oil on the part were the hook & the bobbincase slide & it rock the machine back & forth & it will free up.Right now since you had the needle plate off you need to realign the bobbincase's little tab of metal in the slot under the needleplate. and hope it's still in time.You should never take the hook out for any reason,it's hard for most people to get it back properly in time .So get the bobbincase lined up & see if it'll pickup the bobbin thread. After you thread the machine,put the foot down & see if the tension is so tight that you can barely pull the thread,then holding on to the needle thread make one turn of the handwheel towards you & the bobbin thread should come up,then holding the needle thread for the first couple of stitches see if it'll sew. Bob