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CowboyBob

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Everything posted by CowboyBob

  1. It's a double needle machine,you can takeout one needle & run it on one,but you'll still have a wide foot that can be a problem.Yu should be able to tackle any blankets that come along with it,mosy people I know use a standard 10" machine. Bob
  2. You don't have to have multiple machines....but you'll WANT to. It's not about the machines' capabilities to penetrate leather, so much as it's about the machines' maximum thread sizes and the best match to the machines' designed functions. Very Well Said! Heck you can pickup a small 31-15 Singer for a few $$ & do alot of chaps or anything else with #69 or 92 Bob
  3. As Art says it can be done,but they don't make a leather point needles smaller than a #23,they do go down to a #18 needle you can use but it's a round point & might not look the best in certain leathers,also this needle is 2&3/4" long & when sewing with the #18 you have to be very careful because this needle can bend & break real easy(it's about the same size as the lead in a lead pencil)The smaller machines needles are 1/&3/4" & you can get a leather needle from #25-#14 I'm not trying to say it won't work I just like people to know that it won't work the best do to the needles. Good Luck in your hunt. Bob
  4. Hello Kevin, Yes, your the lucky one!! The first order through the website. And we have evrything in stock too! Thanks, Bob
  5. The rod is the right length because we used to make them out of a nail,if you wanted to you could make a longer one & grind off as needed.
  6. Mark,the bracket the pin pushes on on the back side of the tension unit needs to be bent alittle towards the pin,I do it using 2-scewdrivers put 1 @ the top to hold it while you bend the bottom one out.If you don't understand what I mean you could take the whole tension off & bend it. Bob
  7. That's the main problem which gets easier with time....threading & if it isn't done correct it sure will throw off the tension. Have Fun! Bob
  8. By threading it the way ur arrow is pointing is wrong,because as ur sewing it (the thread) can work it's way out from under the spring. Bob
  9. Read this:http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25239 Bob
  10. I had one of them yrs ago & forgot where the adjustment is but if you ever come down this way like maybe going to Weavers sale or something bring it along & I'll look at it for you. Bob
  11. The heaviest leather this can cut is chap weight & cut it slowly,if it's jammed to many times you'll have to buy some parts. Bob
  12. Hey Rick, Thanks for noticing.Now all I have to do is get more info on it. Ronnie,Yes,I think Wiz is know a great job too! Twin Oaks ,I'd sure like to talk sometime. Bob
  13. Jim, The reason that anyone would want to use anything different is this motor(w/builtin gear reducer)is it goes down to almost 10 rpm(output speed) & still has torque,top speed is 800,we also have the same motor as you have but since it only goes to 300 rpm this is still to fast for most leather machines,unless they put a speed reducer on it which cost more $$ & is not easy to install for most people. Cheers, Bob
  14. The problem is this particular motor is the metal gears in the reducer part of the motor,they have a gear whine that usually quiets down as you use it more. Bob
  15. The gas shock sounds like a great idea but I think most people have an idea if they want to sit or stand to sew & rarely change once they get it to their preferred position. Bob
  16. Well the Adler 205-25 has a hopping top foot with a stitch length that can be adjusted independant of the bottom feed dog,they use this in moccasins for a shirring effect.They will sew just under 1/2" Bob
  17. That's great news,you'll have fun getting it sewing & seeing what it can do. I went to Sheridan to sell machines @ the show & bought 60 machines there,I called my wife & said I done something bad last nite & she asked did you cheat on me ,I said NO!! I bought 60 machines & she said oh that's ok. Bob
  18. I've learned to say I've has it a long time. Bob
  19. The stitch length should be adjustable,it looks like the screw is missing for it(the slot on the upper right front),it's well worth the $$ for the stand alone,I have people calling all the time for heavy treadle stands & it seems yrs ago when they converted to electric I think many got scrapped. Bob
  20. Ok,it does have model#325 on it,over here they are model# 188k,it's a very light duty machine more for a tailor or dressmaker using thin household type of thread. Bob
  21. If you can get a pic I can help,the model# should be on a brass oval tag on the front. Bob
  22. That's a good one,I think it would look better with some old shoes by it?
  23. Ok,if you seen the svrew is it still in there holding the 2 pieces together?,there's also a little screw in the hook driver gear that has a small pointed tip to it that could of sheared off too,the screw is in a hole in the gear that you get to by going in the slot(back one) on the lower part of the arm where the gear slides in & out.
  24. Turn the machine around so the needlebar is all the way down,now look up where it comes out of the machine,underneath,it's on the left side & catskin is correct it'll make it skip if it's bent. Bob
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