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CowboyBob

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Everything posted by CowboyBob

  1. The problem with the Boss is the needle is so long & of course when you go maller it'll bend & break alot easier.The smallest size made is a #110 which is what I recommend for #69 in these machines.A 120 would make a larger hole. Bob
  2. Trox,how does the bobbin fit on it? :rofl:
  3. The Consew or Juki would be the best bet.
  4. Ok,once you set the timing so the needle rises 3/32" from bottom dead center,then you need to make sure the needle height is set so the point of the hook is about 1/8" above the eye of the needle & it should sew.
  5. Hello, Are you sure your sure your using the correct needle? it should be 21/8" long. Bob
  6. The tension discs in the front are used for darning. Bob
  7. Tom, To time the hook,the hook point needs to be @ the needle when the needlebar raises up 3/32" from BDC . Let me lnow if you have anymore questions. Bob
  8. Less foot pressure will make less feed dog marking.If your feed dogs have teeth on them you can polish off the sharpness will reduce the marking too. Can you post a better pic were I can see the top lefthand corner of the machine,it's cropped off on this one. No,a roller foot cannot be put on a walking foot machine. Bob
  9. Ok,I'll sure let you know if I hear of any. Bob
  10. Hello Eric, That's when I got into this business is 1980.I don't have either model in stock @ this time. Bob
  11. Your turning the wrong screw,the correct one is located behind were the spool of thread is in the pic,it takes a screw to go the the hole to loosen it. Bob
  12. Ferdco took the standard Juki feed dog & needle plate off & put a slotted plate & the lower needle guide on these,the problem we found is the stitch length shortened in reverse w/o the feed dog being there.
  13. Now that I'm fully awake,I'll explain it better.When it makes that noise it can lift the foot (with the leather) up on the upstroke of the needle & when that happens it won't make a good loop for the shuttle to catch & that will cause the skipping & frayed threads just like the timing being off will. Bob
  14. Mark, Sounds to me like your sewing on old or dried out leather,that's what the noise is,try putting some lube on the leather or at least between the 2- pieces & I'll bet the noise will go away. Bob
  15. Mike is real close,although it's more like a Juki 563 or Consew 255 w/a vertical bobbin, around 1/2" foot lift should sew 20 oz of leather,use up to #138 thread & it takes very common pressure feet just like the Juki & Consews. HTH Bob
  16. I'd rather own a Mitsubishi than a Yamata there's a big difference in quality.
  17. If it includes the table & motor yes that's a great price.
  18. If I was some 2000 miles closer I'd buy that Juki myself,your right tnawrot2 that is a great buy!I've seen alot worse looking ones than that. Bob
  19. Yes,that is a walking foot machine that would work for upholstery. Bob
  20. That's probably your best choice.
  21. Yes,parts are alittle more than the other machines,so are the feet,all the above machines I mentioned take the same feet so they are inexpensive
  22. Yes,if that's what you want to do is topstitch seats even 138 is plenty large enough.The Nakajima 280 isn't the best machine for large thread.Get a Singer 111w,211,Consew 225,226,255,206,Juki 562,563. There really isn't much difference between the above models except bobbin size & where it loads.
  23. Since you want to do uph type of work w/277 you need to look @ Singer 144w ,Consew 744 or Adler 220,221 type of machine. Anyone of the above will even use #346 if needed. HTH Bob
  24. Doug, Take your needle plate off & turn your machine in the direction it runs & when the point of the shuttle meets the needle the top of the eye needs to be 1/8" below the tip of the shuttle.The problem with the longer needle is if you have a needlebar thread guide on your machine you might need to take it off so you can raise the needlebar enough to get the timing correct for the longer needles. HTH Bob
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