Handstitched

The range of colours in the M10/277 were a bit limited in Australia ( in my preferred brand) , just the " main colours" , black brown, yellow & white but now the range has increased , reds , blues greens, beiges etc. So now I can do so much more . @JWheeler331 I know It sounds silly, but there is a certain amount of fun using one of these machines , and a good sense of satisfaction .........my 2 cents worth By now , its all set up and ready to go? All the best, and have fun , HS

Its depends, whether its for hobby use and/or with the view to turn it into a business, which was the case for me, or for an established business. I've had mine since 2005, never looked back. I'd be lost without it now. It didn't take long to pay for itself HS

I remember the joy when I saw my machine arrive on the back of the ute, just like that . Mine arrived in a wooden box/ crate, it took 3 of us to lift it off. ( I used the wood to make some shelves ) . Well done on your purchase , and hope all goes well for you. Bet you can't wait to get it up & running ? You'd be like a kid on Christmas Day . HS

@Constabulary any ideas on this one? I'd would have thought if you put too many layers under the foot, it may exceed the machines capability ? You could always compress the image? HS

Can you increase the Aussie dollar ? Nah, .....just kidding Its pretty crook atm . If/ when it goes up , I can get stock from the US , not vaible atm . HS

All packages go through customs, I appreciate that, but for example, if I sent you a belt no invoice no business name or ID's with say, a greeting card, ... with 'Happy Christmas Constabulary ' in the package , how would they know that its actually something you ordered from my business in Australia ? HS

I'm only echoing the other comments. I use M10 277 thread top & bottom, with #24 needle . The top leather is usually around 3.5 - 4mm , if a lining was to be used, say 1 - 1.2mm , thats approx 5mm in thickness to sew through. Hear hear I haven't touched the presser foot tension in years . My fear is that it will come right out and leave a hole in my workshop roof .......and I'll never get it back in again . And yes, let leather dry first . We live & learn. HS

The only way the UK customs would know it was from a business if it had a business name on the package or any BRN''s ( business reference numbers) on it. So, if the package looked like it was just an average package , say like a gift, private name , or whatever, how would they know ? ( other than large ' business ' `quantities) I could send a few belts to the UK as a " gift'" , with prior arrangements with the client ? Much to learn . HS

Couldn't be easier than that eh ? I burnish the edges straight after I've dyed them and while the dye is still damp , and finish with a bit of boot polish to make them all nice & pretty , simple , its pretty routine for me now. When theres multiples of product, theres not much time to fiddle about . HS

@WannaBe No worries mate , you're welcome You'll also notice that many of us have more than one machine . One machine won't do everything . The biggie I bought , 441 clone, not only does the heavy leathers, but also has done some heavy webbing repairs, and an assortment of heavy repairs etc. . Just a quick example of which direction you might go if you buy a machine. But even that, won't do everything . Even though I have 4 machines, I still love handstitching, (as hard as it is on my hands at times ) but machines do help to speed things up a bit. And, buying a machine didn't mean I'd b turning my back on handstitching , that has certainly not been the case, as I once thought "I enjoy stitching by hand, and take pride in my stitching" I like that Only you know when you are ready . HS

G'Day, we all have our own way of doing things, this is mine. This is just a simple phone case. After I've sanded the edges on a bench sander, I bevel & dye the edges, and....while its still a bit damp... I burnish the edges with my wood handled beveller, (with a bit of ' elbow grease' ) . The curves are just the perfect shape, also good for tight corners etc. . Then I finish with a bit of boot polish...yep...boot polish , a quick brush & buff by hand , and thats it. Its by no means ' like glass', but its pretty shiny, and more than an acceptable finish , and I'm happy with that I sometimes use a plastic slicker, and even a plastic component from a roller door, but the wood handle works best for me. When there are multiples of product to make, and time is of the essence , I came up with a quick and easy method . HS

G'Day, When I was a wee lad, I put together aeroplane models , you know the plastic ' Airfix' type' . That image reminded me of those little transfers you put on the planes. Soak them in water, and they separate from the backing paper. Just wondering if this is something similar but on larger scale? Some kind of transfer with a clear P/U coating maybe Whatever it is , it looks great Also, looks like an air brush was used along the very edges, perhaps to hide the edges of the transfer ? Is there a contact link with the pic? Any musicians on here? What is the music? HS

Not sure if this is of any help, : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xw2qlx_Zdb8 The leather in the vid looks around 3mm. I doubt it matters if its veg tan or chrome tan . HS

Are there any non-solvent based adhesives that you could try ? On that note, are you able to get a piece of ' ABS plastic' ( the same as your guitar case) , an off cut, a sample, a toy or whatever, that you could use as a test piece ? Just a thought HS

Maybe there in lies the problem ? I always measure the client's waist, using a tailors tape measure with both metric & imperial measurements, and quite often I get them to measure it so there no dispute , and I never use another belt for the measurement .Where the tape measure meets the front & centre, , thats the centre hole. ( Thanks Al Stohlman ) I also refer you to what ' Dwight' said @zuludog Yep !! been there done that . Oops, my bad, !! A'h yes, learning stuff... isn't it wonderful? Yep HS

@JayEhl The original leather cover was attached with an adhesive, I did the same with the Cane Toad skins . It was fiddly as, because toad skins are an odd shape, so it was a case of measuring, trimming...repeat. Once all the pieces were trimmed , like jigsaw pieces, they were then carefully attached using the same process. No sewing involved. When Cane Toad skins are stuck, they stay ' stuck' . I lightly sanded the lighter body, and gave it a clean up with some acetone to remove any dust , grease etc. HS

@sonnyboone I love it nothing wrong with the colours . The green is very striking, quite impressed with that . I often say to myself if I'm doing something different, " be bold & be brave" . You never know if you don't give it a go . I recently received some roo skins, check these beauties out: https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/92181-christmas-came-early/ I'm pretty anxious to get started on them , I'll be thinking outside my regular square Well done

G'Day, I don't normally post on here, but here goes. The lighter is a Vintage ' Jumbo' Table Lighter. Quite heavy, and works fine. The client wanted it covered in Cane Toad skin. It was a delicate job , mainly removing the old , hard, dried out leather covering. I stopped it from breaking up using clear adhesive tape , as you can see, it was so fragile. It just took some thought...and some creativity, to cover it in Cane Toad skin. Toad skins are an odd shape, they take a bit of shaping, trimming and using some off-cuts to fill in any gaps . It was fiddly, but I am quite happy with it I took ' before, during & after pics ' . HS

G'Day , I ordered some roo skins about 2 weeks ago, and they finally arrived this morning from Queensland .I was like a kid on Christmas Day . Now, theres x2 bundles of 10 bright fluoro , and x 4 blue, and x4 dark grey . A total of 28 skins. The pics don't do any justice, but the blue & grey match quite nicely. They were on special They might have a few imperfections here & there, but for what I paid for them , it doesn't matter. They have a few creases from being transported, but they will flatten out. By the time I'made an item , they won't be visible. I'm always making bags, wallets etc. in earthy tones, black, brown etc. so I'm going to a take a plunge , and make some bright wallets, bags etc. Never worked with fluoro colours before, and I don't know what the reaction will be, but stuff it , I'm going for it Ladies love bright colours, and perhaps some blokes too. HS

Except Australia . Its a pity they they don't have a Tandy here in Australia, not any more, they closed it. But they were competing against other well established leather outlets , mostly in the east in NSW, South Australia, Victoria, & Queensland . I'm in the west, theres one outlet .........and thats it . They supply my hides and some hardware etc, like they have been for may years, but the don't have everything. HS

Take the end cap off, undo the two screws , remove the bobbin case, check for any bits of thread, and then try and turn it , by hand . If it still doesn't turn...O'h dear . Have a look inside the inspection plate to the right. But I wouldn't keep forcing it in case you are doing any damage . That sort of thing would make me sweat, ... and you no doubt . HS

Long time no post on this thread. Just briefly on covid, , we , here in Western Australia, have opened up to the rest of the Australia..in Nov. . with conditions. Our Covid numbers are really low compared to the rest of the world, thats why we can freely go anywhere we like, almost . We're the ' envy of the rest of the world' , apparently For me , business has been quite brisk, and EFT has increased quite a bit. Anyway, you're right, I've been meaning to do just that, take a pic of my stall. I keep forgetting to take my camera every time I do a stall, but today, I took my camera....but I forgot to take a f*** pic !! DOH !!! I didn't remember until after I packed up.... aarrgh!! Head like a sieve !! I promise you , I will take a pic , one day Stay safe HS

@Zac G'day from west Oz I too use roo hide for wallets etc., best leather for wallets imo , but I also use roo hide for making or repairing hand bag handles etc. I haven't had much luck cutting thin leathers with a strap cutter either. To cut those, I simply use a metre ruler ( or 1/2 mtr) pressing down as hard as I can , and my knife is super sharp . You could also use a sharp rotary cutter, which is probably best...I just never got around to getting one myself ...old habits HS

@Auden One of my first books I got was ' Al Stohlman Projects & Designs' . For a beginner that I was back then, it s was pure gold . Its has simple to complex designs . Many of which I made over the years. Then I got ' Lucky Seven & Lucky Eight ' ...and so on. Never looked back Hardrada summed it up nicely. HS

G'Day, I've only seen these oilers on the CB 4500's for when the needle gets hot , after extended use on really thick leather jobs no doubt. https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/79774-using-wax-lube-pot-on-a-441/ I've never had the use for one, but now I know what the extra screw holes on the top of my machine are for. HS