Handstitched

Here in Oz, I use a water based polyurethane sealer on my belts etc. nearly no fumes , and no dye rub off with water based dyes. I also use a water based ' super shene' sealer , depends on the project/job. HS

@switchleatherco G'Day, I had a quick look around, and all I could find was this: https://vimeo.com/471566377 This was the info that goes with it: Pedersen 270M-460: - Used Hydraulic Clicker Press - 16 Ton - With Manual Die Height Adjustment - Polypropylene Cutting Pad - Cutting Area: 18” x 36” - Beam width: 18” With Manual Die Height Adjustment ?? There must be an adjustment somewhere? Whats are those adjusters at the front? One must be the cutting depth, and the one on the right? Try it and see, you may see the swing arm go up and down. . Hope this helps a bit. I have a USM 20 press, but nothing to power it with...yet. Its 3ph. HS

Its sometimes difficult to tell, Wallabies are sometimes brindled, depending on the breed, they are from the same family, but I'm leaning toward a small red kangaroo , they're mostly from up north . Fully grown, they're like the hulk, .... don't ever p.... them off !! We have western greys in our area. That skin looks like it got wet at some point @Rahere btw, I'm from Suffolk HS

Um..... forgive me for being a bit of a dunce,as I am a little confused, but ...if you have all the AS books you need , and no doubt many others, why would you need any more leatherwork books ? Unless the books you have stated have patterns you don't have? You wouldn't prefer a good mystery or a thriller ? or perhaps a fairytale? a sewing machine repair/ parts/ service manual would fall right into those categories " Once upon a time in ' Far Away Land' there was a lonely abandoned Singer 132K6 in need of TLC ..." HS

I would have thought that the ' Al Stohlman' books would fit into that category? While there are AS books for the beginners, but theres also books for the advanced leather worker. HS

Availability, Where to get supplies, tools etc. and info , and just some guidance, advice on what tools etc. I needed to get started,I had none, I was ' flying blind' mostly, with the exception of a ' lil ol' lady' in the one shop I frequented .... over 2hrs away and the only 1970's book on leather crafting from my local library. I started long before I had this inter web thing. . There were only 2 leather suppliers in Perth ( Western Australia, theres only 1 now in Perth ) , so it was the Yellow Pages . All of my ordering is online now. HS

That looks absolutely great !! Well done You did a great job on the colours . A lot of medieval clubs would love that. HS

G'Day, Out of curiosity, where did you get the Wallaby skin from? its an Aussie marsupial . I have hair on roo hides , ( same ' family') and even some hair on Possum skins from NZ , and they have no smell whatsoever . Curious HS

Perhaps an occupational therapist can help, or give you some ideas ? I have done repairs for OT's in the past for patients that have physical challenges . HS

G'Day, quite a good looking machine. It looks like a Consew 745R 30" arm or a Seiko JW- 28BL . One of the machines thats on my ' bucket list' . Hope this points you in the right direction. HS

G'Day, I have the STW 28B , the twin needle version of yours ( but only use single needle, rhs) . Silly thing to suggest, but make sure the thread doesn't go behind the tensioners , done that a few times...oops I have mine anti-clockwise on the top tensioner and clockwise on the larger tensioner underneath , but you have your thread going through the guide on the right a bit different to mine. You have yours coming out the top. I have my thread going ' down-up- down', then going anti clockwise on the top tensioner. ( hope that makes sense?) I also by-passed the 'U spring' altogether, some on here might tell me off for that I just went with what worked, it may not be the " correct " way of threading it, but it works . It did take a lot of fiddling about getting the tensions right when I first got the machine, have to admit, but now it works fine. They are a good strong machine , when they run right Good luck HS

I've learnt a lot about how my machine runs now that I can just ' feather' it, and also it runs smooth enough that I just turn the fly wheel by hand if I need to . Never had the need for an EPS or a servo . HS

G'Day, another satisfied customer A'h yes, this does bring back good happy memories . I got my machine, like yours, in .... 2000... and something . Its paid for itself many times over and such a time saver. There were 3 of us, including a stubborn courier* to get it off the back of his ute and into my workshop. I took it out of the wooden crate.... then it was play time I have a lump of leather like that in my brief case and show it to customers . Never had a job that requires that thickness, but nice to know that it can do it....like the ad said . I've called mine " Brutus " . Happy sewing HS * he wanted me to pick it up from his yard, how? it weighs a ton!! " nah mate, not happening, I paid for delivery" Jammy lil' ' expletive '

G'Day, The leather once folded will be strong enough for straps on a bag without webbing. And instead of glue, you could use basting tape( double sided tape) , if available HS

I had the exact same issue with Raven oil dyes. I made myself a nice belt, my very first one ever , way back when..... nicely carved etc. to go with a fancy ex$y pair of light coloured jeans. I used Raven Oil brown and sealed it . O'h boy did it bleed !!! I sealed it, it bled, and I sealed it...*repeat* , it still bled on my nice jeans . Haven't lived it down since I use water based dyes now. No issues at all. HS

This is of no help I know,...... maybe it will be My machine is a Seiko STW, a 226 pretty much, I use 135/17 DP needles, with V69 thread . I sew a multitude of stuff, canvas, horse rugs, shade sails ( just finished a repair a few minutes ago) , webbing , as well as leather, wallets ,bags etc. and webbing attachments on leather components for some horse gear, sews fine . The only time it struggles a little bit, is on some heavy folds on horse rugs, but I just carefully turn the flywheel by hand, simple. I know this machine can take a heavier thread, but it all works just fine , ( touchwood) and I'm not going to mess with it HS

G'Day, welcome to the forum I have re-coloured saddles in the past, like the one in the pic. I didn't use acetone , a bit too harsh IMO , saddle soap was enough . I let dry over night . I used a water based dye, ( dk brown in this case, and saddle tan on the inside flap) that has a little bit of alcohol for drying purposes. I have tried oil based dyes in the past , without much luck, and with the same issues you have now. I let dry completely , I buffed with a soft cloth, then applied a few coats of (Aussie brand) leather/saddle conditioner , that has carnauba and natural waxes in it, buffing /polishing between coats, and thats it . No dye rubbing off . I could have used N/F oil, but that could make it darker. The one thing I learnt when I was riding horses when I was a wee lad , is that some petroleum based conditioners can rot the stitching . Good luck HS

@JamesCaldwell Welcome to the forum , and good to hear you're getting back in to leather I have always relied upon Al Stohlmans books . Youtube have some good vids on handstitching too. I've always used waxed threads . Good luck HS

G'Day, I use the similar method of doing 'slots' . I use kangaroo leather for my wallets, not sure if you have access to that, but its great for wallets with multiple slots etc. as the finished product isn't too thick, normal wallet thickness. I am (hopefully) soon to make some wallets out of some really bright ' fluro coloured' roo hides, can't wait actually, let my imagination run a bit wild . I'll try to take some pics . HS

G'Day, I know exactly how you feel . Space was at a prime in my little 20x20 workshop, I was spending too much time looking for stuff, and I couldn't get from one side to the other without tripping on something, I also do horse rug repairs, they take up a huge amount of ' real estate' . So..... I have another large shed on my rural property, choccas full of junk...so I spent my Christmas " holiday" on clearing it out, throwing lots of s***t, out an alternative to buying another small storage shed, I had to make some tough decisions too, what to throw out and what to keep etc. . Long story short, I now have more spare space in my workshop . Removing all the ' stuff' I haven't used in yonks into the large shed, all the 'stuff' that sat under benches forever...that I have forever complained about. So I guess its a case of condensing down all the stuff you haven't used in a long time . Putting the least used/ unlikely to be used ' stuff ' into boxes , but then you need to find somewhere for that. I also utilised cheap shelving from the hardware shops . That may be an option for you? Also have a poke around on this site, theres plenty of leather workers that had the same problem regarding space & storage . Love your selection of gun molds btw Good luck HS

The answer is right in front of you....>>> HS

@OLESKIVER Some are dress / general purspose belts, but the heavier stuff is used for tool belts, stirrup straps etc. . I also have a limited supply of 5mm black chrome buffalo sides that I reserve for heavy tool belts etc. I have used herman oak sometimes, albeit it in small doses, nice to tool like you said, but here in Oz, its around the $500+ mark per side. HS

G'Day, English bridle can be incredibly expensive in Oz , so I use 4mm nat veg tan butts and shoulders, and for heavy use 5-5.5mm . Nice to work with , tool , carve etc. HS

I have been looking around, but theres no info that I could find. Contact Consew directly . I contacted Seiko in Japan, to find the age of my old STW using the serial number . I found out that its the same age as me....which I'm not telling HS

G'Day, love the idea . Perhaps try a stiffer back board? Can they be fixed to the wall on the corners? Not knowing what the wall is made of, perhaps a small decorative brass screw, nail etc. in each corner ? Or, double sided tape? Just a few ideas. HS