McJeep

another thing I've found helpful since picking up my machine is leaving a healthy 1/2" allowance on things so that there's room for the presser foot to be on the outside edge of the piece, allowing me to get right tight to where I want to be with the needle. Then I trim/sand to size and burnish everything once the stitching's done. Time consuming but it looks better in the end IMHO Cheers R

I switch the presser feet on mine so often that I have a stubby screwdriver sitting on the table just for that particular task now. Not sure if I've ever sewn anything with the regular foot - always right or left depending on which one let's me get closer to the work.

Cool

Good news! Just picked up the used press and the diameter of the stem for the bottom die is indeed .375 so no milling required Hello Weaver? I need some stuff for my tandy press! ;0) Thanks again guy

Just started doing the same thing here! - with the same cheep chisels ;0) Works much better

Art - you are a Prince among men Thanks very much - oh and BTW, keep yer eyes peeled for a lengthy note from me in the near future re certain manufacturing questions LOL Thanks much again - now I'm armed with half of the measurements I need - so long as the shaft on the tandy setup is .375 or bigger, I can get a machinist buddy to mill it down for me

Have recently gotten to the point where I need to be using rivets for different jobs - am not fussy on the lack of strength of double cap easy rivets, but don't need the solid copper rivet strength for these things either and would rather avoid the eyesore of the peened over burrs on bike gear. So it's time to get into the tubular rivets, but I'd like to be able to cap the backside of them rather than splash. Found a good deal on the tandy bench top setter locally. The problem is that tandy does not offer a cap anvil for their tubular rivet setup - Weaver does for *their* press, but I can't modify a foot pedal to theirs where I can with the tandy one. So, does anyone have experience with both and can tell me if the weaver cap anvil will fit the tandy press? Also - Tandy does not list exactly what rivets they sell on their info (ie: 103/104 or whatever) but just list things by length. If I go to their setup am I locked into using their rivets? Any and all info appreciated folks - need to jump on the bench rivet press (if I'm gonna get it) in the next day I think or will loose it :0/ Rob (rivetless in Canuckia)

Now that's just too funny - I was about to post with the exact same two recommendations - never dull wadding and a tube (comes in like a toothpaste tube) of autosol have been what I've used on all my bike bits for years - so I second the motion ;0)

Nice! helped me!

get them to measure from the most used hole to where the tang hits the buckle instead - if you're just going to the fold you're shorting yerself by up to an inch right there Also remember that if they're measuring on one of those throw away nylon collars and you're building a leather one, there will likely be differences due to stiffness of leather and/or width that you're making it hope this helps Rob

As always, beauty work

Hmmmmm, I think that a woodworking buddy (who just the other day got a smokin deal on a vinyl seat re&re) may be coming up to payback time ;0) He'll be the one making the molds I think - should be worth the time as I'm hoping to make a fair amount of these - IF I can get the time/ignorant factor down!

Yeah, I hear ya - I just never manage to get the overlap smooth enough for my liking so have avoided them :0/ Maybe if I pick up something better than the tandy stamps I'd get cleaner results

Recently finished a project for a customer - at least I hope it's finished ;0) Disregard the damned colour please - she does a lot of breast cancer rides I'm having problems with doing gussets in general - you can see the compound curve in the design. My problem is this - I want to use upwards of 8oz leather on the gussets to alleviate the need for any stiffeners inside the bags (these are small - they go on the face of saddle bag guards). The bottom edge is actually stitched inside the bag and then the sides are stitched on the face. When trying to man handle the leather to conform to the shape, it's pretty much impossible with 8oz so I went down to 4oz. While it makes things more shape'able, it's not as substantial as I'd like and as you can see, the leather likes to wrinkle as in the bottom corner. Even with trying to skive down the thickness near the stitch line, the 8oz was too stiff to manipulate on this project (gusset is only 4" deep). I'm thinking that in order to use better leather I'm going to have to build molds so that I can wet and preform all of the stitching areas prior to gluing up? I see people making tool bags with heavy leather and they're usually even smaller than this - please share the tricks??? Using an Artisan 3200 for stitching duties - getting the back of the stitches to look like the front is a wholllllle nuther question LMAO Thanks in advance Rob

Really really nice job - great detail How on earth do you get the barbed wire stamps to match up so clean - I have some but have not had near the success in practicing to make me want to ever actually use them on a project :0/

I'd be interested to know which model it fits - the ones I made up fit road king - if you have a different application there, I could use it to template up the back piece for whatever model it fits - if that makes any sense

Hmmmmm, I'm not really sure if there would be copyright things to deal with - I've seen alllll kinds of tattoo artists using his flash art before

Great detail Always get a kick out of seeing sailor gerry's stuff used today - I've got one of his pieces on my arm from wayyyyyyyy back ;0)

So far I've watched about four of these vids - at this point I'm undecided as to whether this guy is motivating me to push harder to improve my knife skills, or to just give up and take up gardening! LMAO Back to you tube I go for some more punishment ;0) Picking up some good pointers just watching this Thanks for the link! Rob

Roger that - this sewing machine newb appreciates your passing on the trick

I think I'm reading your plans correctly - you are planning to use buckles to attach the individual bags to the permanently affixed yoke? My suggestion would be to use heavy gauge nylon zippers for this attachment - less bulky than buckles - easily hidden with a trim flap - spreads the weight of bags and load evenly across the joint - easier to unzip a bag while supporting it with yer other hand vice manipulating buckles? Nice looking profile on those - me likey

Wow nice

Looks vaguely familiar - just finishing up these for a customer https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/424492_306705412710302_196182280429283_798717_1012908283_n.jpg Do those kits list exactly which model they are for?? May want 'em for patterns Rob

Wow - I see someone needing a new pair of spectacles after this one - to help with the crossed eyes ;0) Nice knife work! Rob