hidepounder

I mix 40 cc's to 16 ozs of water (Ihave a 20cc scoop). Take a trimmed woolskin, saturate it with the oxalic acid solution and carefully apply it evenly over the tooling. Stop and lightly scrub and dirty spots, pencil marks, eetc., bu tDO NOT saturate the leather.......you'll be just fine! Hope this helps.... Bobby

Hi Aaron! I have heard some of these bizarre claims and it is simply not true! To begin with, antique paste is NOT a sealer. Anything can penetrate it! Additionally Fiebings recommends that Tan Kote NOT be used as a resist because their antique paste will penetrate it. If you read the antique paste label it recommends that Tan Kote be used to "cut" the paste if required. Consequently I don't put the two together. Please don't misunderstand me, I'm not knocking Tan Kote....I like it and use it a lot! And a lot of people use it successfully as a sealer over antique but it doesn't seem like a good practice to me and I just prefer not to use it over an antique finish. It makes a lot more sense to me to use the same product for a finish that I used as a resist. That way I am insured against having any compatibility problems!!! BTW, both products will "lift" the antique color when applied. I have seen NeatLac crack and chip and in every instance it was grossly overused and applied incorrectly. And in most of those instances the NeatLac was sprayed from a can which I recommend against in most csaes. It is best applied with a trimmed wool skin and worked thoroughly into the leather. I like to apply a couple of light coats. I've been using it since the late sixtes and I have never had a problem with it so that is a track record I have confidence in. So anyway, "that's my story and I'm sticking to it!" :>) Hope this helps..... Bobby

GOLIGER LEATHER! 888-444-4337 Ask for Cheryl.....use my name if you want, but you won't need to... Bobby

equis, After looking at your project it appears to me that you didn't get nearly enough NeatLac on as a resist, nor does it appear that you applied enough antique paste. IMHO NeatLac is best applied with a trimmed piece of woolskin. I apply it thoroughly and sometimes twice to insure that I get a good even coat covering ALL of the leather. When it is completely dry I apply my antique paste with a trimmed woolskin and rub it in thoroughly insuring that every little crevice is coated. I then remove the bulk of the paste with a few paper towels. This does two things for me. One, I don't waste woolskin and two by wiping the residue off with a paper towel, residue is left in the cuts and background. Depending on how dark I want the cuts to be I then scrub the entire surface with trimmed woolskin to remove the balance of the residue. Typically I try to remove everything from the cuts and background because they are already darker by virtue of being left exposed to the antique longer than the smooth surface of the leather. I then polish the surface of the entire piece with trimmed woolskin. At this point no residual antique is picked up with the woolskin and the surface of the leather takes on a nice glow. I prefer to use NeatLac as a final finish. While using Tan Kote is fairly common....Tan Kote is is what is used to "cut" antique paste, so it never made sense to me to use it as a finish when antique has been applied. One additional tip I might offer. Before applying a resist, I clean my leather with Oxalic acid. This helps to insure that any reisdual dirt, oil etc., is removed from the leather. It insures that your color will come out smooth and even rather than blotched. After, all, that is the purpose for applying a resist in the first place.....to create a smooth even finish on a product which has a natural inconsistent surface which is further varied by handling, tooling, etc. Hope this helps.... Bobby

Bradley, I don't have near the experience using round knives that Bruce or Art do but my assessment is almost identical to theirs. I am absolutely convinced the Rose's have the best steel and mine are tapered a little thinner than the rest and required less shoulder removal. I've been lucky because I haven't run into a Rose with soft spots (knock on wood!). I too would Rate Gomph as the next best knife. I have a medium size one that I use for every day cutting and I love it. While I absolutely agree that the Old Osbornes, both CS and HF are excellent knives also, number three in my line up is a Buchmann, however it is not an old brand. This goes against everything I believe in because it is a stainless steel knife and I swore I would never have another stainless knife, however this one is very thin and stays really sharp and is a pleasure to use. For me the old Osbornes rate right behind it, but to be perfectly honest, I should probably attribute this prejudice to never having had very good Osbornes for comparison, because I doubt many would agree with me on the Buchmann. I think the bottom line on all of these older knives is that they have far better steel than what we see in today's knives. I don't know if this is due to the availability of the steel or because the older knives were hand forged or forged differently (which I suspect is a large part of it). But steel quality is the big issue in contemporary knives. Bob Dozier is getting pretty close they say and there are some other custom makers out there but I have no experience with them nor have I heard any gossip. I ruined the best Gomph I have ever had on a stationary belt sander in spite of frequent quenching with water, and all my efforts to preserve the temper. So I'm convinced it requires more knowledge and skill than I have to sharpen these old knives mechanically and as a result I now will only sharpen them knives by hand. I purchased some large (and expensive) diamond stones, with very coarse to very fine grits and then I finish like Bruce does with very fine wet & dry sheets on a plate. Like Bruce said, you have to be prepared to be there a while. Take care.... Bobby

I finally found the other thread that I wanted to post a link to. It's a discussion with a lot of information. Swivel Knife 2. There are several other threads that discuss swivel knives also..... Hope this helps....... Bobby

If you will do a search you will find a lot of information about swivel knives. Here is a link to a recent one. Swivel Knife 1. There is another older thread which is very good but I can't seem to find it. Anyway, the SK-3 is just one of many fine quality swivel knives. I highly recommend that you do some research before buying a Stohlman. Just my opinion..... Bobby

reddevil76, There have been a lot of good comments made here, however some I disagree with. It's not a matter of right or wrong, it's just that there is more than one way to skin a cat. With the greatest respect to my fellow toolers, I must disagree with the notion that you should switch to a narrow angled blade. In my humble opinion you should not begin using specialty blades until you master the basics. I recommend learning to use a 3/8" straight blade (hollow ground is great) in a 1/2" barrel knife. I think that is the most versatile knife to use and there is very little one CAN'T do with it. If I was forced to use only one knife, that would be it! For me it is all about learning good skills and not developing bad habits that must be unlearned later on. It may take you a little longer to get where you're going but once you get there you will be able to accomplish a lot more. One of the most difficult things for new enthusiasts to accomplish is sharpening their blades and believe me nothing is harder to learn with that a dull knife. Find someone to help you learn to sharpen your knife. That will make a huge difference in learning to use it. It sounds silly but the truth is that most enthusiasts do not know what sharp really means. They have no basis for comparison and so they do not know what to strive for. You will need to purchase a good sharpening guide, stone or steel (I recommend a diamond impregnated steel) and a good strop. When I'm using my swivel knife I pull it toward me. I do cut to the sides somewhat, but I mostly just pull the knife toward me. I think it is great to learn to use it in all directions, but only after you have learned to pull it toward you. When you need to, stop and turn the leather as the others have recommended. I also strongly disagree with your philosophy regarding shipping charges! There is absolutely no comparison between Tandy entry level tools and a professional quality knife like Leather Wranglers. To choose such a lesser product to save a few dollars in shipping just doesn't make any sense to me. Just my opinion..... Hope this helps..... Bobby

Another beautiful seat David! Love the birds!!!! :>) Bobby

Terrific Doug! I'm looking forward to meeting you too! Bobby

That's the best answer so far! Nice job! Bobby

I can recommend two sources who can help you acquire a quality knife that will suit your needs. Bob Douglas and Bruce Johnson. Bruce is a moderator here on LW. He is also an saddlemaker and has a lot of first hand experience on using a round knife. Bruce Johnson. Bob Douglas is also a saddlemaker and a perveyor of fine tools. His number is 307-737-2222. Both will help you. Bobby

I thought I should take advantage of the great opportunity provided by LW to tell you about my classes at Sheridan this year. On Wednesday, May 18 I'll be teaching SWIVEL KNIFE SAVVY. This is a class for beginning and intermediate crafters. I'll be discussing the various attributes of the swivel knife, the different varieties and their usage as well as sharpening. In the afternoon we will practice cutting on one of my finger carving patterns...maybe a bird... Thursday , May 19 is BASIC FLORAL DESIGN. This class was offered in Wickenburg for the first time and was a sell out. We spend the day learning a technique for basic design that the student can use and continue with at home. Friday, May 20 is FINISHING EDGES. This class was also offered in Wickenburg, was a sell out and a great success. It's a half day class where I will discuss and demonstrate the methods I use for finishing edges. It is followed by an open Q&A. Seating is limited and filling up fast so if you think you would like to participate please contact LC&SJ at Leather Crafters & Saddlers Journal This is a great trade show and a real opportunity to meet new suppliers, compare all those tools you've been drooling over and pick up some great deals from the vendors. The parties are great and there is a lot to see! Hope to see you there! Bobby Bob Park Custom Leather

Great idea Harvey, I'm in! Denise I tried to get my dates changed so I could take your class but I'll be teaching Wednesday through Friday so I hope to be able to meet you and Rod at one of the parties! Jo...looking forward to seeing you and if you do get name tags I want one to wear in my classes! Or how about LW lapel pins.....I like that idea! Bobby

I'm thinking about going...........

Thanks, Marcel, I stand corrected! Regardless, bearings or bushings, Paul's knives are very smooth! Bobby

It sounds to me like you don't have a whole side of leather, but instead just a large piece. Without seeing the leather or knowing what part of the hide it came from it is pretty hard to advise you. The best thing I can say is to determine which edge of your piece of leather is the best leather and cut that edge straight (assuming it's long enough). All you need to have is one straight side in order to cut your straps. The other edges don't matter if I am understanding you correctly. Bobby

I have a couple of different approaches to measuring belts. I have made a couple of difference "measuring" belts that I use. One is for trophy belts. It is an 1-1/2" belt that is very long and has numbered holes punched every 1/2". I simply have the customer put HIS buckle on the belt, put the belt on and note what hole is being used. Additionally I will ask him to identify the hole where he would like the tip to end. I use that same "measuring belt" when laying out the customer's belt and i add 2-1/2" to 3" for the fold. It's pretty darned fool proof. If you need to find center (for names, initials, etc.), it is exactly half the distance between the fold and the hole used. The other belt I use for narrow belts. It is simply 3/4" wide with the same holes punched in it as the other belt. This one has a 1" long buckle permanently attached. With this belt I make note of the hole being used and subtract the length of the customers buckle and then add for the fold and the billet. If a "measuring belt" is not available, I use a cloth measuring tape....have the customer run the tape through their belt loops and take note of the measurement. Subtract the length of the buckle and you have the measurement from the loop to the center hole, then add for the loop flap and the billet. When taking an order based on pant size, I do exactly what John does. If the customer wears a 34" pant, I will make him a 36" belt. Be sure to remember to DEDUCT the length of the buckle.....2-1/2" is usually pretty close on a trophy style belt. 3/4" to 1" is usually pretty close on a 3 piece set.. I add 2-1/2" to 3" for the flpa past the fold (be sure to skive the thickness of the flap down) and 6" to 7" past the center hole for the billet. I punch 5 holes @ 3/4" apart. Hope this helps..... Bobby

Ray, I use a 6' aluminum straight edge and I mark a straight line down the "back" of the tooling side from one end to the other. I try to minimize the waist. Once you have cut the line you can strip out any belts or other "straps" you need. The straight edge I use is actually one used by tile setters. It is 3" x 1" piece of aluminum angle. It is fairly heavy weight for aluminum....it's probably 1/4" thick. I like it because it is wide and I can set a couple of shot bags on it to hold it in place while I'm marking my line. The 1" lip keeps the straight edge from flexing. I cut the line with a sharp head knife. Hope this helps..... Bobby

Beautiful John!

IMHO There is a huge difference between Henley and Leather Wranglers! Henley, like many other knives is a solid stainless steel knife with excellent bearings in the yoke. It is adjustable and is available in coarse or fine knurling. They used to be carried by Tandy and Leather Factory and were marketed as "Extreme Alloy" swivel knives. They are available in a variety of knife barrel diameters and lengths and they are adjustable. They are very high quality knives and have a very solid "heavy" feel to them. Their blades are very good. Leather Wrangler is a very different animal in that it is made of aluminum and is very light weight. The knurling is fine but sticky (making it easy to hold on to) and not smooth as you will find in knives like Chuck Smiths. They too are available in a variety of barrel diameters and lengths, are adjustable and have a couple difference yoke styles to choose from. I believe Paul uses bushings rather than bearings. Also, these knives are available in a number of brilliant colors. The blades in Leather Wrangler knives are very different also. It is a very high tech alloy designed for use in operating theatres (don't hold me to that) and requires much less stropping that a conventional steel blade. You need to be aware that the shafts on the blades are flat and if you want a round shaft Paul will braise some round stock to the shaft so that the blades can be used in other barrels. These are very high quality knives also and they have a very "light" feel to them. I use both brands. I have several Henleys with different blades in them and I use my Leather Wrangler knife a lot also. They have entirely different feels and I cannot say that I prefer one over the other. I find myself reaching for the Leather Wrangler knife when I do decorative cutting or finger carving and I use the Henleys and Bob Beard knives for general cutting. Bob custom made a couple of knives for me so of course I'm crazy about them! I think Chuck Smith's knives are "Top Drawer" in every aspect. I don't use them because I prefer the aggressive knurl like is available from Henley......Chuck's knurling is very smooth. With regard to these two knives it is purely a personal choice. An awful lot of people swear by Barry's knives and won't use anything else. I have never tried one because I have some sort of aversion to brass but knowing Barry I'm sure they are an excellent choice. There is new knife now being offered that is made of titanium and utilizing bushings at the yoke. I just saw it for the first time this week. I have never held one but the idea of a titanium knife is intriguing and the price is reasonable. These are available from Billy Brown at Diamond B Leather. Henley Knives: http://gemosphere.tr...el_Knivesx.html Leather Wranglers: http://www.leatherwranglers.com Diamond B Leather: http://www.diamondbleather.com Bob Beard Knives: http://robertbeardtools.com Barry King Knives: http://www.barrykingtools.com Hope this helps..... Bobby

Bob, I wrapped the cocobolo wood wheel with the grooves in it that came with my Weaver machine. Bobby

Hi Ray, If you are going to sand by hand, I would recommend about a 150 to 250 grit sandpaper. It is good to sand in multiple grits.....going from 150 to maybe 600 and finally a 1000, however that requires a lot of work and the difference between sanding may not be three times as good. That is somehting you will have to determine for yourself after a little experimenting. If I am doing a show piece I pull out all the stops and sand with several different grits, however I don't do that on a normal piece. If you don't want to sand by hand, you can use one of those small sanding drums they sell in hardware stores and use it in a drill or dremel. When we talk about the leathers being even we are referring to the two surfaces finishing on the same plane. There is no step or bump between layers and the two pieces are smooth and feel like one piece when you're finished. Hope this helps.... Bobby

Hey Pete....I think that is fascinating! I have heard of doing this before but have never seen it done. It would seem to me to that the heated wax would produce a very durable edge. Thanks for sharing! Bobby

Nice job Kate!