hidepounder

These mauls are really looking nice Ed! Bobby

I really like the straps, Mark, you did a good job on them. I like the tooling design....it's thinking a little out of the box....it's different, creates interest and looks really nice. Bobby.

Thanks for resurrecting this old thread Johanna! Lots of information from a couple of different perspectives. I don't think I agree with some of it but th epoint of vies certainly makes you think twice. Good stuff! Bobby

Thanks to Studio-N and TTcustom for posting those links. Very educational! I have been using olive oil because I feel it's lighter, penetrates faster and dipserses through the leather more completely. It seems like my leather doesn't darken quite as much as it did with Neatsfoot oil, but that could just be my imagination. Bobby

Skip.....it sounds like maybe you aren't being consistant with your strike. Regardless, if you've given the maul a fair chance and it doesn't work for you don't think twice about going back to what you're comfortable with. I've heard several folks talk about modifying the ends of their tools but I've never found that necessary. What is important is that you use what gives you the most enjoyable and best result. Hope this helps.... Bobby

Doc and skyout have both hit on important questions. I have never had a problem with Saddle Sheen and it doesn't sound right to me that the Eco Flo caused this. Is it possible the leather had just a little moisture in it even though it felt dry...or maybe a little oil? I have created similar problems with NeatLac by applying it too soon after oiling. Additionally it sounds like the Leather Sheen was applied just a touch too heavy which is really easy to do with a spray. I like applying it to a piece of trimmed shearling and then putting it on the leather. Seems like I have a little more control that way. Maybe someone else has been through this and will jump in.....

Nice job Rickey....

Is my work on there?

What a great story! I can imagine your surprise when the mauls hit the pile, LOL!

I'm not "kicking" Tandy at all, Slick. I'm giving them credit for popularizing the mallet, not inventing it! It's just my opinion based on personal observations in the early/mid sixties. You're certanly not denying that Tandy included little wooden mallets in their tool kits are you?. Tandy didn't sell mauls in those days, probably because they were too expensive for the hobbyist/crafter. If you wanted to upgrade you bought a rawhide mallet. And to the best of my knowledge they never promoted stamping sticks, either...if they did it wasn't for long. Saddlemakers and shops bought their supplies and tools from private concerns, not Tandy and that is where mauls were sold. I can tell you this...I will NEVER forget the ribbing I took the first time I showed up on the job as a tooler with a mallet! And it was always one of the first questions I was asked when applying for a tooling job...."whose swivel knife do you use?" and "do you use a maul or a mallet?" What's more, I doubt you will ever convince me that Al Stohlman or F.O. Baird in any way, ever represented the common working tooler of that day! Regardless, whether I'm right or wrong, my comment sure wasn't intended as criticism...sorry you took it that way. Bob Park

Do you know what's been canceled, Tim? It seems early to start cancelling.......

I've had good experience with the Ostritch Market. Nice people, great products. Bobby

Ed I really like the muted colors better. I think I might even like them muted a little more! For me the muted colors enhance your beautiful tooling where as the more intense colors detract. Im my mind this is an example of less is more. Beautiful stuff...thanks for sharing. Bobby

I don't know what a perfect body position is. I can tell you that I like to stand at my bench and 42" AFF is a good working height for me........ Bobby

Bob pretty well covered the highlights of the maul over the mallet....here's a little background... I do not think the norm was ever to use a mallet to tool with. As a youngster growing up I saw toolers in saddles shops using mauls and stamping sticks. Osborne has sold mauls in various sizes for many, many years. I believe that the mallet came around because Tandy needed an in expensive and readily reproducable striking tool to sell to crafters and enthusiasts. Most pros use mauls.....maybe not all of them.....but I'll bet a drink that it's well over 95%. A maul is just easier for most toolers to use. More power with less effort. Stamping sticks were very popular also but I don't think anyone was successful in manufacturing them...they were nearly all home made. The rawhide surface wears out fairly quickly and it is a nuisance to replace it...barring that they are real nice to use. I did see a photo recently of a stamping stick that was manufactured but I do not recall whose it was or when they were made. The crafter who learned leatherwork through Tandy was introduced to wooden as well as rawhide mallets to use and naturally assumed that the mallet was the striking tool of choice, when in reality it never was, within the professional community. All that said, there is absolutely nothing wrong with using a mallet if that is what you are more comfortable with. I would encourage anyone to try a maul....they are so readily available and fairly affordable now....but if a mallet works better for you...use it! That's my take anyway..... Bobby

Ken, Rather ran re-write the entire article I am going to refer you to Leather Wranglers site where Paul has done a very nice job of explaining sharpening of a swivel knife blade. He also deals with stropping the blade as well. I think those articles were included in Leatherworkers "Tips & Tricks" but I couldn't find them....they must not be up yet. Anyway here is a link that explains sharpening. http://www.leatherwranglers.com/tips.html When it comes to selecting blades for different types of work, I think that is all about personal preference. The simple principles are that the longer a blade is the easier it is to use on long straight lines. I use a 5/8" long blade when cutting borders, etc. Conversely, the narrower a blade is the easier it is to use on small patterns with lots of tight turns. For those patterns I use a 1/4" angled blade. Most of my blades are hollow ground because I like them. For very thin leather I use a blade with a very flat ground angles which helps prevent cutting through the leather. For the most part, as you spend more and more time cutting, you will develope a feel for what you like to use in what situation. Hope this helps..... Bobby

Elton....great job on the mauls and tools. They look really nice. I like the knurling you used. Looks to me like a new tool maker has been born, LOL! Bobby

Ceramic blades can be sharpened but it takes some very expensive equipment to do a proper job. The problem is preventing the edge from failing during sharpening process. In spite of what many think....ceramic does corrode also, however it is effected differently that steel. When ceramic corrodes due to exposure to residual acids in leather, the suface of the ceramic begins to flake off creating a rough uneven surface. Where stopping removes the crystaline build up on steel blades due to corrosion, stropping a ceramic blade is less effective because there is no crystaline structure to remove by stropping. I know Troy West successfully sharpens his ceramics using his GRS sharpening system. I have also heard that it is possible to sharpen ceramics using some diamond impregnated sharpening steels and aluminum oxide paper, but I have no first hand experience with either. Hope htis helps... Bobby

John that does not surprise me at all. I think a lot of folks pick up a ceramic and like the way it cuts. My only objection is two fold. They are too fragile for my taste and they only come in about two sizes. The most important thing in selecting a blade is getting one that works for you......nothing else matters! Bobby

The edgers are tenatively sold.

For anyone that might be interested, I will be substituting for Paul Zalesak in the classes he was scheduled to teach at the Wickenburg, AZ show. The classes are: SWIVEL KNIFE: Introduction and Theory Wednesday, Feb 17th, morning SWIVEL KNIFE: Practice. Wednesday, Feb 17th, afternoon For anyone who doesn't know me I have attached some photos of my knife work...these were the 1st, 2nd and 3rd place entries in the 2009 Billy Wootres Swivel Knife Contest held in Wickenburg last year. I just wanted to let everyone know about the changes and if anyone is interested there are still a few seats left. Please contact the Leather Crafters & Saddlers Journal or feel free to email me for more information. Thanks and hope to see you there! Bob Park

If anyone is interested I have decided to sell my Ron's round bottom edgers and French edgers. I am only doing so because I have finally accumulated enough antique Gomph tools that I can't justify having two separate sets. These tools are in excellent used condition and are at least as sharp or sharper than they were when I bought them new. They are all stainless with beautiful Rosewood(?) handles. There are five French edgers for $350 and four round bottom edgers for $275 and that includes the sharpening guides. At this point I am not interested in breaking up either set. If anyone is interested in either of these sets please email me soon. I thought I would list them here before putting them on ebay or taking them to the Wickenburg show. Shipping for either set (or both combined) should be around $5 or $6 using Priority Mail. My email address is hidepounder at cox dot net.

Fred, Tandy carries both oil and alcohol dyes. I happen to like the alcohol dyes....maybe because that's what I learned to use. Oil dyes are fine also...they take longer to dry and I have never tried them on an edge....I would think they would be fine, though. Pariafin is readily available in grocery stores (check the baking section) and at many hardware stores. It is still used for canning...... Bobby

Hi Todd, I have never used vinegaroon to dye edges. Vinegaroon doesn't get real black until oil is applied. It doesn't seem very practical to me, but maybe it would work. When dyeing edges with spirit dyes you do need a fairly steady hand as you suggest. If the dye gets on the face of the leather there is no removing it! The leather does want to wick the dye along the edge, which is the sole reason why I burnish before dyeing....it helps to make a neat clean dye line. Hope this helps..... Bobby

David this one looks great already! Can't wait to see it finished! Bobby