hidepounder

I like the desk and the panels! But I have to tell you....I like your idea of having the tooling in the outside corners, the way you envisioned it, better. Doesn't matter though....it really looks nice and the panels really compliment the desk!!!! Great job!!! Bobby

Hey Tim...the chaps look great! Also I've been meaning to call you to tell you that your tooled cover for the current LC&SJ looks terrific also. Nice job!!!!!! Bobby

Oh....I forgot J. Cook. You'll have to Google his address......or maybe Ben has it.

Bob Dosier is making custom head knives.......

Hi Chris....yes the handles on Waynes mauls are leather. Barry King makes leather handles on his mauls also. Bobby

I thought those mauls looked familiar....they're mine, LOL! And before anyone asks...no they are not for sale! I have five different sizes of Bob's mauls and am crazy about them. I'm still searching for a 12 oz.....so if anyone has one for sale, I'm a buyer!!!!!! I always discuss the mauls with Bob also and did so at Wickenburg again this year. It sounds like there is not much hope that we will ever see those mauls produced again. Bobby

Hi Pete.....I have heard of using heated irons for edging but have never seen it done. I have wondered how finishing an edge that way would effect dying the edge. It seems logical that a more durable edge would result from using the irons, however I would think it would still be necessary to polish the edge with parafin or something similar to provide a high lister. I'd like to see the irons used some time.... Bobby

I'd like to add my congratulations to both of you also. Beautiful saddles! Andy your tooling pattern is outstanding! Bobby

Most pros use mauls for those type tasks. Weights vary of course.....

Me too Mike!

One of the things that I do when I draw a pattern is to color in the background. It will reveal a lot about your pattern that is just not obvious otherwise. A good example is what Casey identified as an area with too much background. I think it is important to try to keep the size of the background area relatively uniform throughout the design. Coloring in the background will also tell you whether the vine work is too coarse or too flimsy for the pattern. You will also notice flow problems by coloring in the background. It's a good habit to get into. Bobby

I'm not a saddle maker but it sure looks like a good job to me! Going to tool the next one? Bobby

Nice job Steve! Looks like an Arizona rig. Love the skirt rigging...you know me! Looks like a great roping saddle but I sure bruise my arm dallying on those tall horns, LOL! They are pretty hard to miss though! Anyway...very nice! Bobby

Wiz, Bob Douglas is the guy to call. He carries his own brand which are top of the line as well as a large assortment of reconditioned older tools like Osbornes and Gomphs. He will take good care of you! Bobby

Hi Ty, Not sure how I missed your post but I did. I think the fender is looking good. Everything is smooth and even...pattern has good flow too....can't wait to see it finished! Bobby

Max, Call Vandy at Sheridon Leather Outfitters. They had the nicest saddlers stitching horse I have seen on display at Wickenburg. The clamps were full depth and the whole thing was taller than the ones I've seen before which would be a lot nicer to sit on!! Also, Bob Douglas sellsa really nice pony clamp (mounts to a table or bench). Bobby

Wow!! You really did do good! There are a lot neat finds in that pile! Bobby

Just prior to reading this thread I made a post in another thread where I commented on the difficulty for new enthusiasts to become educated about their horses and the equipment they need to own in order to have a safe positive experience. The source of education all too often comes from the delivery driver for the local tack/feed store....who just happens to be filling in for the gal who normally runs the sales floor, and who by the way, was taught by the previous delivery driver. This is what all too many people are exposed to and so it's easy to understand how they could be so mis-informed. One can't just run down to the local saddle shop anymore and get educated because custom shops just don't exist much anymore! I can tell you from personal experience that there is absolutely no way to know what goes into (more likely what doesn't go into) a contracted production saddle. My first one came apart in the middle of the short round in a roping and I found myself sitting in the middle of the arena wondering what in the hell just happened!! I should have known better though...when I was a young man one of my first jobs as a tooler was in a shop that contracted Billy Cook roping saddles. The saddlemakers (no previous experience required) used to have races to see who could complete certain operations faster...like building horn caps on the bench, soaking them and pulling them on...loser buys the beer. When they were finished the saddles where shipped back to Texas and were sold as custom made Billy Cooks. I would rather become a near sighted Matador than dally on one of those saddles! Of course that was a very long long time ago, but I believe that over the years saddle contractors, succumbing to the pressures of competition, have greatly refined their skills in producing junk. It's all just plain depressing! I can report, however, that the delivery drivers are doing a bang up job these days! Just try to convince the owner of a new Crates that he hasn't just bought one of the highest quality saddles on the market! And what's worse is when the new guy gets to meet others who share his new found passion, he is completely reassured because his new found friends were taught by the first delivery driver!!!!!! Don't get me wrong.....I'm not saying that there is not a place for production saddles...there is....and I'm still roping on one!!!! The problem is that the general public has nowhere to go to learn the difference between custom and production saddles and therefore cannot make an informed decision. There may be very good reasons why someone would be willing to build a custom saddle for the price of a production saddle, but I would sure want to understand the circumstances. Things cost what they cost! I just can't help being suspicious when offered a new Corvette for the price of an Accord! Ya know....sometimes when it's just to good to be true..... Okay, I've carried on long enough. I'm probably just a little over sensative from trying to explain the difference between one of my belts and an embossed one from China! I lose that argument every time! Bobby

I'm finding this thread interesting and decided to toss my two cents worth in. I prefer to use a roper style breast collar, both for working and for pleasure riding....partly because that is mostly what we used when I was growing up, partly because I think it does a better job. We did use tripping style collars some while working but most everyone I was around used roper style breast collars. I personally don't see the advantage s of a tripping collar in everyday use. I think a lot of folks worry too much about shoulder restriction with breast collars. To me the degree of restriction they are worried about just doesn't exist...or...they are relying on breast collars to compensate for improperly fitting and improperly cinched saddles which move way too much... and I think this is more often the case. A properly fitting and properly cinched saddle should not move a lot! I whole heartedly agree with using back cinches and dismiss the arguments against them as pure bunk! Additionally I have seen a couple of folks get in trouble with ill-fitting martingale supports when their horse puts his head down and the martingale falls too far forward...that just isn't my favorite setup. For me a properly fitted and adjusted roper/pulling style breast collar fills the bill. There is another factor which comes in to play and I don't know how to put this without it sounding bad. That is there are an awful lot of pleasure riders and horse enthusiasts who are just not knowledgeable about their horses or their equipment....primarily because they are constantly mislead down at the local tack & feed store by the delivery driver who is filling in on the sales floor for the gal who normally works there and who learned from the old delivery driver! Consequently they develop opinions and points of few based on false premises learned from other uninformed enthusiasts and shop owners. Well intentioned riders are often sold ill fitting, substandard equipment and when their saddle with one cinch slides all over their horses back and makes him sore they are sold a thicker saddle pad and an ill fitting breast collar to fix the problem! You can see where I'm going here. It's a darn tough deal for someone just starting out! Anyway, I could get real carried away here, but that's my take on the use of breast collars..... Bobby

I just want to add a couple of comments here. I sometimes get the impression that folks think a flower inside a circle is Sheridan style carving. That couldn't be farther from the truth. A flower surrounded by a vine in a circle is simply one form of western floral tooling and has been around for many, many years. Sheridan style tooling is typified (is that even a word?) by a particularly delicate, elongated petal utilized in the vine work and by delicate flowers which require a lot of use of the bruiser along the petals. Additionally specialized tools like steep bevelers, bruisers and generally smaller more refined tools are typically used on Sheridan Patterns. Patterns drawn in circles are simply what preceeded Sheridan Style tooling. Just wanted to clear that up..... Bobby

Cowboy 316, It would be well worth your time and money to acquire "Sheridan Style Carving" by Bob Likewise. It costs somewhere around $30, I think. If you will read that book and follow Bill Gardners examples as he teaches drawing Sheridan patterns you will jump forward by leaps and bounds. The book addresses tools as well and provides a lot of great tooling examples from some of the great Sheridan style toolers. I have been tooling since the mid sixties and I still refer to this book from time to time. If tooling were a college course, "Sheridan Style Carving" would be the text book. I have no affiliation here, I just know how much great info is in this book. Hope this helps... Bobby.

Darcy's right, Rickey, the size of the bar grounder is completely decided by the patten. Most recently I have been using a #25 set on my work and am going to try a #20 which I just bought in Wickenburg. These are the small side and are defintely harder to run than a #30 or #35, which are a little too large for my current patterns. Hope this helps... Bobby

I'm with Ray, I'm just shocked! The WMD surely gives new meaning to "reach out and touch someone"! Great job on the scabbard by the way, Dave! (is he happily settled in Florida?), LOL!! Bobby

I always make my exterior first because there are several steps where drying time is involved. During those down times I can work on the interior which generally (not always!) takes me less time to build than the outside does. I make a hard template of everyting I build and that is what I use to cut out my leather with, so it is not necesary for me to build the exterior in order to get the interior correct...for me it's a matter of steps and timing. Hope this helps..... Bobby

Jeff, I highly recomend you call Bob Douglas in Sheraton WY. 307/737-2222. If you will tell him what you're doing and what your're looking for he can fix you up! The old Osborne's, Gomph's and Rose knives have much better steel than the new Osbornes or Tandy products. BB knives (Bill Buchman sp?) are excellent as are the new Dosier knives. They are all a little pricey but well worth the investment. Part of the trick to using a round knife is learning how to sharpen it and Bob can get you started there also. Old Osbornes are fairly frequent on ebay if you know exactly what you want..... Hope this helps.... Bobby