hidepounder

sodapop, Art, Bruce, Crystal, Rick, Troy, MADMAX22, HARVEY, Bree, Jim, Hilly, 8thsinner, Tom, pete, Kevin, Johnny, Bonnie, McJeep, Marlon...... Thank you all for your comments and kind words, I appreciate them all! The support received here LW is inspiring......so, more to come! Thanks again, Bob

Great rack Art! (that sounds funny!). Great tool rack Art! Nicely done...can't wait to see the cover for it!

Roo...we were just talking about achieving the illusion of depth in over on the "Sheridan" side. This is a perfect example! Great job! Love your stuff.....want to see more masks..... Bob

Here is a project I finished last week. It's a legal size pad folio. I have smudged the name because it's an XMas present....so if you know who it is....PLEASE DON'T SPILL THE BEANS! It detracts from the photo...but I didn't want to take a chance. This is a Sheridan style pattern with a "Parkway" twist. I really struggled with this one...the customer wanted a basket weave border, but because of the unusual size, the border just didn't look good. Instead, I created a second, wider border inside the outer border and wrapped a vine around it. I then wove the main pattern in and out of the vine on the border. The inner border doesn't show as well as I'd hoped, but overall, I think it's okay. The back side has the same border. The exterior is constructed of two pieces 7-8 oz leather and the binding is split down to 5 oz. All three pieces have stiffeners under the liner. The tooling is antiqued and finished with Neat-Lac. The exterior edges were slicked, dyed and sewn with Rice, white #138 thread, top & bottom at 9 stitches per inch. The lining leather is 2 oz, natural, finished with Tan-Kote. It is sewn with Rice, white #69 thread, top & bottom, at 12 stitches per inch. All the edges are either turned and stitched or slicked. The back side of the lining components are finished with a tan nylon fabric. These photos aren't the best, but will have to do until I can update my camera. As usual, all critiques and comments are welcome.....and I'm thick skined, so don't be afraid to tell me what you think! Bob

Blake & cowpounder...... I sincerely apologize for not getting your names correctly in my earlier post! I assure you that I did not mean to quote you or refer to your work using someones elses name. Please accept my apology and just chock this up to my age.......they say that memory is one of the first things to go! Sorry guys! Bob

Rookie, Lots of good comments here....I want to add a few more. I used to tape everything when using lighter weight leather, but occasionally my tape would come loose a little and I would still get some stretching. I now put everything on 1/4" acrylic panels, even heavier weights like 9-10 oz. I cut several different sizes and shapes of acrylic to accomodate the kind of projects I typically do. I rubber cement my leather to the acrylic after casing my leather and it has worked vey well for me. I always line everything I tool so the residual cement on the back of my leather is not an issue for me. If you don't want residul glue, you can apply Barge to the acrylic only and press the piece to be tooled on while it is tacky. The use of anything on the back of th leather to help "soften" the tooling does not work for me! I want as solid a backing as is possible so that I can get good clean, crisp tool impressions. Whenever I have a small scale, intricate tooling pattern, I reduce the thickness of the leather I tool on, for just that reason. I then will glue on a lining that will bring the thickness of the piece back to the appropriate size. I agree with David, depth is an illusion created by your design and is enhaced by the application of your tools. I also agree with Blake, that using flatter bevelers, etc., is an option to consider when tooling lightweight leather, however, I want to add that the tools one selects to use, is dictated by the pattern. It's an issue of scale! If you'll notice, the pattern tooled by steveh on the boot tops is ornate, therefore he doesn't need to use "flat "tools in order to achieve the illusion of depth. On a broad, large pattern, the use of "flat" tools would probably enhance the illusion of depth. On the other hand, if you put very small, ornate pattern on 10-12 oz leather and cut as deep as the leather allows, the end result will be disasterous...again it's a matter of scale, dictated by the pattern. Hope this makes some sense...if not...just ignore me. Steve, Is there a specific brand of Heel & Sole dressing you like to use best? Bob

All of Tandy's tools are entry level tools, at best. Some of the old Tandy tools are okay, but still entry level. Hidecrafter tools are better, however, in my humble opinion, if you are serious about progressing, you may want to upgrade. The following is a list of quality tool makers. It would be worth your time to call and have them send you their catalogs. Be prepared for sticker shock! Pro Series Tools - Bob Beard, 505/632-7039 Gore Tools - Jay, 800/859-8338 Hackbarth Tools - Ellis/Lonnie, 520/642-3891 Barry King Tools - Barry, 307/672-5657 Bill Woodruff Tools - Bill, 520/282-6134 Wayne Jueschke Tools - Wayne, 775-738-4885 Smith & Company - Chuck Smith, 818/222-5757 Hope this helps.... Bob

Very nice Bruce! You have some good ideas. I'm envious! Bob

Hi Mike, I do a fair amount of finger carving on all my belt and organizer linings, etc., and I don't do anything to the cuts other than clean with oxalic acid and apply a finish. There are a couple of things to consider, however, such as the thickness of the material and the type of blade used to make the cuts. If you are finger carving a 2-3 oz piece of lining leather, your cuts are going to appear very fine because the depth of cut is shallow. In that instance I use a 1/4" blade designed by Peter Main that has a slight angle and a very flat bevel at the edge, producing a wider cut without going through the leather. If you are cutting a thicker piece of leather, say 7-8 oz, then any blade will do. A thicker blade will make a more open cut as long as the bevel at the cutting edge is not too steep. Try not to cut too dry...you want it cased, so that the cuts stay open. Hope this helps........ Bob

Thanks Tom....I attached it so it wouldn't "flip"outside the organizer or under the pages....they're usually sewn along the edge because it's easier. You're the only one who noticed! Thanks, Bob

Buying tools is a very serious affliction! It has to be the single biggest reason that leatherworkers can't show a profit! Someone should invent a spray for it!

Keith, I called the local TLF here and asked the manager, whom I've gotten to know. He told me they are dropping Neat-Lac all together......I had him locate all the inventory in gallon size, here in Phoenix, and went and bought it. TLF is no longer going to carry Fiebings paste antique either. In addition, I found out that Barge is discontinuing that particular line and have replaced it with two new products...which he showed to me, but knows nothing about yet. When I asked about Master, he told me he thought they would be forced to follow Barge or quit all together. Don't know how solid the info on Master is. It's all a Hazardous Material issue. Bob

Discontinued as in not making it anymore, Johanna. Talked to Tandy today. Just came home after buying the last 5 gals in town! If you know somebody....better stock up!

I'll bet you get a lot of different opinions on this subject jettrash! I use a variety of different blades for different applications. The three most common being: 1) 1/4" HG angle blade (by Bob Beard), in a 3/8" Henley knife. This is the blade I probably use the most. I use it for cutting flowers and generally small Sheridan style work. I also have a Henley blade like this that I like very much. 2) 1/2" HG straight blade (by Bob Beard), in a 1/2" Beard knife. I use this for general cutting on medium to large size patterns, and for long sweeping cuts on Sheridan style patterns. 3) 5/8" HG straight blade (by Bob Beard),in a 5/8" Beard knife. I use this for cutting straight lines like borders. I also use this blade a lot on larger patterns. I like Bob Beard blades because he uses a really hard steel and I don't have to sharpen as frequently as I do other less expensive blades. Also, I can custom order them and get exactly what I want. They are a little pricey. I also like Henley blades very much. I hear a lot of good thing things about the ceramic blades, but have never used them....and probably won't, for two reasons. First I know how to sharpen blades and secondly the ceramic blades are very fragil...if you chip a tip, the blade is history. In addition to the three blades mentioned above, I use a 3/16" wide, angled filigree blade (by Bob Beard), that is less than 1/16" thick, for doing very small, fine cutting. I also use 1/4" Peter Main blade (manf'd by Henley) with a very slight angle that is designed for cutting in 2-3 oz leather. It really works great for finger carving in light leather. Occasionaly I will use a 3/8" HG straight blade (by Henley) for small general carving. For me, no one blade fits the bill. I think that the more you tool, the more you begin using different knives and blades in an effort to acheive better results. However, the most important thing about a swivel knife blade is, that it is sharp...and is practiced with...a lot!

Thanks Keith, I appreciate the tips! Todays work schedule = Beveling & polishing presser feet! Bob

Happy Birthday Elton!

I've been biting my tongue reading responses to this topic for days. I'm always interested in what products others use for finishes and how they are applied. The process Keith described for finishing is pricisely the way I was taught and continue to practice. I have been paticularly interested in the adverse comments about Neat-Lac....thinking I was just out of date and out of touch, because I love the stuff! As a point of interest...while working at Porters, years ago, Neat-Lac was the only sealer allowed to be used on saddles or any other gear or equipment. We reconditioned a lot of saddles in those days and all of them went out soaped/oiled and Neat-Lac'd. Smells pretty good too!

I don't think Don was trying to create Sheridan style carving....he was just trying to improve on the style he learned. He was a Porter saddlemaker and when he went out on his own he tooled the way he wanted, which was a variant of what they did at Porters.....more refined and more customized. Remember, while Don was certainly a catylist, there were other Porter trained saddlemakers and toolers working in the area, as well as those trained by Don. Bill Gardner being a prime example. It would be unfair to a lot of great craftsman to not credit them in the evolution of the style also. Undoubtedly Don's business success as a saddlemaker influenced others to do what he was doing....

Hi Alan....glad to give you my opinion, but please remember, it's just my opinion and others might disagree....and that's okay! The two flowers used, especially the lower left are unquestionalby Sheridan! However, if you'll notice, the acanthis is nearly as large as the flowers and the way it used and tooled says Stohlman to me. It and the swirls are nearly as important elements in the compositon as the flowers, where, in Sheridan tooling there is much less emphasis on these elements. In addition you'll notice that the petals on the stem are very short and rounded. In Sheridan tooling, these petals are much more elongated and you will see them used more frequently. The swirls as used here are very large and broad, and again, a major part of the composition as oppossed to just being a complimentary element. The use of the flower in a circle, as typically seen in Sheridan style tooling, does not make a composition, Sheridan Style. The use of a flower in a circle is very common in Traditional tooling designs. If you have the opportunity to study the book "Sheridan Style Carving" by Bob Likewise, you will see a lot of examples of what I'm trying to convey here. And remember, there is no hard line that separates Sheridan style from what I call Traditonal style. There are several Sheridan elements and techniques used in this piece, primarily the design and tooling of the flowers and the general use of a thumbprint/bruiser in lieu of a shader, as well as the use of a steep beveler. The popularity of the Sheridan style coupled with the surging interest in western tooling has resulted in the use of the term "Sheridan" to describe all western floral tooling, and that just isn't correct. What I think is unquestionable is that Bobocat is a Master tooler and this little sample he has shown us is simply beautiful! He is easily one of the best toolers I have ever seen and I carefully study everything he does because I always learn something! and "that's all I have to say about that". Hope this makes sense.....if not....just ignore me! Bob

Great find Bree!.....I'm headed there now to get some for my bench....I make shadows with my hands during some tooling operations and the larger lights get in my way....this is perfect! Thanks!ArtS....just saw your light...gotta have that too! (no wonder I can't show a profit!) Thanks!

Beautifully done Bobocat! Excellent composition and knifework! You've also done an excellent job in shading...in particular you've matched the correct size shader to match the pattern....or designed your pattern to match your tools...either way, an important fundamental not recognized by many toolers. I'm impressed with this piece, as I am with all your work! I would categorize the style as "Traditional Western" or probably more accurately "Stohlman", rather than "Sheridan". Nevertheless, it's beautiful! Really well done!

Johanna....Thanks for taking the time to share your visit with the rest of us. It's really neat to have the opportunity to see the lifetime achievements of people like Allan, who have given so much to promote our art. I'm looking forward to seeing more pictures of Allan's work.

Roo....as a leather tooler I've mostly only been interested in western types of leather art.....but I just love your masks! Beautiful!...keep them coming!

Unfortunately they are not made anymore. They made a lot of them however and can be purchased on ebay or you can go to Bob Douglas...he buys refurbishes and sharpens them and other old tools. His number is 307/737-2222.

Thanks Keith, I really battled over whether or not to tool that tab....finally decided not to because of the plain edge on the binder. On the interior, all of the sewn edges are folded...the exposed edges on the pen loops and business card pockets are all edged and slicked. As for the presser foot tracks.....I don't know what to do there....the tooling is antiqued and finished before I assembled, because I wanted the stitching to stay white...so I couldn't rub it out much without creating damage. I sewed this on an Artisan 797AB with a harness presser foot setup and I have the same problem with my Adler 205. I would value any suggestions that you may have! I really appreciate your comments! Bob