hidepounder

Scott, Are you saying that the two pieces don't stick together? Bob

I don't have many current pictures of me because I am ususally the one behind the camera. This is a blow up of my signature photo, of me on my horse, Neat Starlight.

I may be mistaken (wouldn't be the first time) but I believe Bob Beard invented the tri-weave based on a very old hand cut pattern on a saddle that his customer was trying to emulate. I have his tri-weave in a couple of sizes and I have Ellis Barnes two tool version. Ellis's version is easier to run and is much more forgiving than Bob's, although it takes quite a bit more time to run. I personally like Bob's tool the best. The tool actually has a tiny post in each corner that is used for alignment. They both have their own distinct look. The Tri-weave is an extremely difficult tool to run properly, especially over a large area and I don't recommend attempting to work it around an element where you have to match back up, until you have really mastered it's use. Bob recommends running the tool away from you....one point forward....two points to the rear. Done correctly it makes a beautiful pattern with a lot of "life". I would caution anyone, however, to remove all sharp and potentially lethal tools into someone else's care before starting a large tri-weave project! Bob

I use oxalic acid on all my projects. I put the acid solution in a spray bottle (1 tablespoon/quart of water) and with a fine spray, apply it directly onto the piece and scrub lightly with a piece of scrap woolskin. I do this after I dye my background. If I were going to dye the complete background I think I would use the acid first. I think it is important to keep the level of saturation equal so that no light spots are created. I usually do not try to wash again with water as is recommended per the instructions. Once it is dry I oil and then finish in my normal manner. I have found it not to effect the color of my antique finish. The spray bottle is handy, and I sometimes find myself spraying directly onto my woolskin rather than to the leather. I think I'll start wearing a latex glove though...

Allen, Initially I thought you were talking about something other than the normal drag which occurs when cutting with a steel blade, but it sounds like that is what you are experiencing. I have never used ceramic so I am accustomed to stopping to strop. You may already know this but maybe someone else here doesn't. One of the things you can do to help eliminate the drag when cutting, is to add soap when you case your leather. I had heard of this for years but didn't try it, now it is part of what I do when I case all my leather. I add several drops of JOY liquid soad to my pan of water when casing, and then I take a piece of wet woolskin scrap, and apply a light coat of IVORY bar soap lather to the surface of the leather. The next day when I start cutting, most all of the drag is eliminated. I don't know if the soap is simply lubricating my blade or if it is nuetralizing the acids in the leather that cause the chemical reaction resulting in drag...I was going to research this and decided I really didn't care! It works and I'm happy. The addition of the soap when casing has never effected the finish on my leather, by the way. I use Herman Oak leather and most of the sides are pretty good, however occasionally I'll get one I almost can't cut, but the soap solves the problem! Bob

Allen, I'm curious, are any of your other steel blades doing the same thing? Also, are you using a jig to sharpen with? Bob I just read in another post that you're using a graver jig, so sharpening isn't the issue...not sure what's happening there. Might call Barry and ask him about it. I have heard that you can use Pauls blades (Leather Wrangler) in Barry's knives, but I don't know that for sure. I use Beard blades, that I had him make for me and Henley blades. I'm sure Barry will make you another one, and I know Paul and Bob Beard will. Please let us know what you find out...I'm curious about this. Sounds like something different than the normal drag which develops when using steel. Bob

They do not have a website, but they do have a flyer. 307/737-2222 Bob & Lee Douglas.

As a newcomer, this is the first time I've seen this thread! You had told me some of your background, Johanna, but I have really enjoyed reading the "rest of the story". It's neat to have some insight into the person who is responsible for creating, what I believe is, one of the most important and enjoyable places a leather enthusiast can be! Thanks to you and your team, I have had the privelege of meeting some of the nicest people I know...pro's and novices alike. Every day I log on and read the new posts and learn something valuable that I didn't know...happened again today...and I've gained a new appreciation for other types of leather work presented on this site, I otherwise, would never have been exposed to, if this forum didn't exist. I never imagined I would ever join a chat room! Now I can't wait to log on in the evening and talk with the "gang", from all over the world...Austrailia, Sweden, Switzerland, Canada, UK, all over the US and in all walks of life...geeks, cops, cowboys, bikers, soldiers and everyone in between...all gibbering away like we've known each other for years....bound only by the common thread which is this forum...wow! As your story unfolds, so does ours at LW...that's pretty cool when I think about it. So, I too, would like to thank you and your "crew", Johanna, for all the hard work and the endless hours all of you put in, to make LW what it is now...and what I'm confident it will be, in the many years to come. Beat Wishes, Bob

Dynamik 1 All of the responses you have received are good advice. Box knives, scalpels, pocket knives...they all will get the job done nicely! The important issue is learning to sharpen and polish the cutting edges. I, like Art, have a collection of knives and other wicked cutting instraments...most of which sit in a box, never to be used again. I am a staunch advocate of learning to use a head (round) knife. Once you learn to use them, it is easy to cut a straight line, within the limits of a pencil mark, with no guide...I'm not exaggerating! The properties of the knife make them easy to use. There is definitely a learning curve and I avoided it for a long time because I didn't know how to sharpen properly. Once I learned how to make a head knife wicked sharp, there was no going back! 99% of my cutting is done with a head knife. I use a paring style straight knife to complete an inside corner cut made with the head knife and I use one of those rolling cutters on 2-3 oz leather...it's pretty handy and I use it only because I have it...I don't need it. If you decide to make the big leap to buy a head or round knife...get a good one...don't compromise...you'll use it for life. So that's my two cents worth of free advice...hope it helps! Just remember...don't bleed on the leather! Bob

******************NEWS FLASH******************** I just had a long conversation with Lee Douglas of Douglas Tools. She told me that they are currently restocking the tools which they have been out of for so long. They are in the process of putting handles on them now. In addition, Lee told me that they are ready to introduce their new line of French Skivers. That is really exiciting news for me! Based on the quality of Bob's tools, these should be great!

MsDragonfly...I would recomend using a good French edger to perform that skive. Once you learn to use and sharpen it, a good French edger is invaluable. Draw a line where you want to begin the skive. Place one edge of the edger on the line and let the opposite edge rest on your skiving surface. You can now make a smooth even skive along the leather. For a shallower skive, use a wider French edger, or skive with a head knife, then go back and clean up the edge with the French edger. I skive a lot of edges with a head knife. It was a difficult tool for me to learn to use and sharpen, but now that I can, it is invaluable! Hope this helps! Bob

Jon, You'll like this..... In an interview, after winning another major race, race horse trainer Bob Bafford was asked what he fed. He replied "...We feed better horses!..."

Wow Troy...you're amazing! The saddle and the silver are both beautifully done! And what a great client!

Sorry Greg & Mike & Doug & Bruce!!!!! I didn't say what I meant to at all! I was trying to say that I agreed with the points all of you made regarding the underpad and Navajo pads and gel pads, etc. That's not how it came out and I apologize to everyone...I didn't do a good job of explaining my thought!( not unusual!) I also agree with everyone that skirts should be allowed to move, and if Traveller gets them corrected she will be better off! However, I personally don't think that is what's happening in this case(I could be wrong, wouldn't be the first time!). What bothers me is that the problem persists with an English saddle! I can't help but be suspicious of another cause...and a rounded back decreases contact with the back of the saddle...not increases it...so that's why I zeroed in on the cotton underpad. Anyway...my apologies to you guys...I didn't mean to put words in your mouth! Bob, P.S. Greg...I wouldn't suggest jogging anywhere here in the desert, in a double wool blanket or a neopreme pad!

Traveller, I've been watching this thread with great interest, have had to bite my tongue a couple of times, and now I'll add my two cents worth. I'm with Bruce & Mike & Greg & Doug on this...I don't think the laced skirts are the cause of the problem here. I think the problem is your cotton underpad. To begin with it's too small...based on the size of your felt pad, the underpad should be even with or extend slightly beyond your felt pad. Secondly it's cotton...I think this is not good. It should be wool or one of the neopreme type pads. Remember, we want our horses backs wet, not dry...that is why you see the wide spread movement to neopreme type pads and linings. In my humble opinion, however, in spite of all our technological advances....a felt pad over a doubled Navajo wool blanket is still one of the most successful means of padding a horse. I'm with Greg on the gel pads...I gave them to my dogs to sleep on! You definitely need the 1" felt pad because your gullet will be too low on the withers without it...it barely clears now! You have short rounded skirts and no back cinch...so the back of your saddle is constantly lifting and settling when you are loping, stopping, etc. This motion is accentuated if you have a horse that rounds well and does not hollow out, which you've stated is the case. As your horse rounds his back, the rear of the the saddle rises (or your horse moves away from it) and your cotton pad lifts the hair, rubs back and forth, breaking it off. If you're too low in front, your saddle runs down hill...that means the rear of the saddle is elevated. Additionally, you ride with your feet under you, as oppossed to in front of you...nothing wrong with that...great if you rope...but that "seat" makes your weight a forward moving force, which is also contributing to the movement of your saddle and pad in the rear. I'm also wondering if you're cinched tight enough! I think it would be really interesting to see if exchanging the small cotton pad for a double Navajo or neopreme pad would make a difference. If you were using a back cinch or if your skirts were longer in back I'd be more concerned about the lacing, there is no question that can be an issue...but in your situation I just don't think it is...I'd try the pad first! And please let us all know what you find out! Bob

There are a couple more people you need to know about. Ron's Tool Co., www.ronstools.com make excellent edgers. Also Barry King and Bob Beard are both now producing edgers. The other name you need is Bob Douglas, 307/737-2222. He has his own of tools, so get his brochure, and he buys, reconditions and sells the old tools which are no longer made. He is one of the most knowledgable people I have ever met with regard to hand tools, knives, leather machines, etc. Before you make any decisions about hand tools...be sure to speak to Bob. Good Luck! Bob

Your concern about creating a stain mark is legitimate, especially on older leather. One of the things you can do to help alleviate that, is to take a sponge and wet the leather farther down the belt , essentially "tapering" the moisture off to nothing, thereby eliminating a stain line. Usually this is not necessary, however. Bob

Great job on the rope can!

You might try Bob Douglas, 307/737-2222 Bob

I think the cracking you experienced is a twofold problem. The leather is too thick and too dry at the fold. When I make belts, I skive the leather down so that it is not so thick at the fold. The leather should not be full thickness here. When the leather is thinner, there is less stretching of the grain side when you make the fold. Before I make the fold, I dip the end to be folded in water and get it saturated. This allows the grain side to be stretched without breaking open. I personally don't think Neatsfoot or anything else is going to have a large impact on preventing the grain from cracking. If your leather is really old this may not solve your problem, however, I'm betting that it will. I do recommend oiling after you are finished dyeing and after you have completed the fold, so that the leather is properly conditioned. Hope this helps. Bob

Tina, barry makes really nice glass slickers with wood handles, I have one and love it....use it all the time. Don't know about plexiglass..... Bob

The mauls I use are as follows: 12 oz tapered maul by Barry King for tooling on 3-4 oz leather. (rarely used). 16 oz maul from Bob Beard for general tooling. 20 oz maul from Bob Beard for flower centers, basket stamping, geometric borders and shading on larger leaf patterns. 24 oz maul from Bob Beard for strap end, bag and hole punching. rivet setting. I sold my 32 oz Osborne maul and wish I had it back!

Nice clean work singteck...good job! Bob

I just love this place!!! In 35+ years of stamping it never occured to me to use a screw driver, Bruce! I think I've used just about everything else, but a screw driver touched up to match the leg is a simple and practicle tip! Thank you...great tutorial! I'm headed to Home Depot to buy an assortment of screwdivers! Happy New Year! Bob

Happy New Year to you, Tom, and to all the LW family! Bob