hidepounder

That's a very nice compliment bobocat, I appreciate it! Bob

Kim, I don't know if buffalo will burnish or not. I use "hair on" cowhide quite a bit and it does not burnish well. I've seen it done, but it looks unfinished and unprofessional. So when I'm using something that will not burnish, I wrap the edges with a 2 oz binding and sew it. A binding can be made out of almost any kind of unfinished or finished leather. That's the only way I know of to deal with that kind of an edge to make the piece look finished correctly. Bob

Crystal...what a great job! Now I can really see what you where struggling with on the small tools we were talking about. But you nailed it! Definitely do some more of this stuff, it's great! Bob

I don't have any hot ideas, but that's a beautiful set of bags!

Troy, I don't think there are that many RubyAt blades still in use,................but ceramics...........................that's the real future for West International Blade & Knife Works! "Just a cut above"!

Troy.....I think you're about to need a another manager.............................

I use spirit dyes and I do all my dyeing before I oil. I have dyed backgrounding after oiling, but it takes longer to dry. I have only dyed lettering before oiling. Also, it's important to let the dye completely dry before applying the first coat of Neat-Lac, because Neat-Lac will pick up the dye! That's easy Hilly....if the Neat-Lac fumes begin to dissapate, I open up my can of Barge!

As far as I know, that is correct.

Another great job Tina...you surprised me with the design this time! Bob

Fantastic Tina, really nice work! I love the finger carved peacock! Bob

I also use the Versa Groover. In addition I use Bob Douglas' free hand groovers, sizes #1 & #2. I also have a J. Watt groover that I have installed a Douglas blade in. I never sew anymore without grooving first.

Harvey, I'm flattered that you like the finish I've been using. I can't speak for Bruce, but this is what I do..........I take lots of pictures with different settings and then pick out the color I like best and post in on LW! Just kidding....! I think the process I use is kind of an "industry standard" among toolers. Once I've finished tooling, I clean the piece with oxalic acid and let it dry completely. Next I lightly oil using 100% neatsfoot oil or olive oil. After several hours, usually overnight, I apply a coat of Neat-Lac and let that dry. Next I apply Fiebings paste antique, remove all the residue, and buff with wool skin. I let that dry for a few hours and then apply a couple light coats of Neat-Lac for a final finish. And that's it...no magic! Hope this helps.... Bob

Thanks Steve...I usually edge with the same size edger, but not always. I line everything I make and there are occasions when I'll use a different size on the lining side. And yes, I burnish first, then spirit dye, then burnish again. Here's another example of my burnished edge... Bob

Kate, Thanks you for jumping in and helping...I really appreciate it! cdthayer Thank you also...what was happening is just what you thought. Johanna, Thanks for coming to my rescue. I figured out the "poor boy" way of getting a photo in my signature, but now that I know how, I haven't decided what to use....let you know when find something I like. Thanks again everybody! Bob

Thanks for helping Kate. I want to learn how to insert an image into my signature. I think I copied and pasted directly from my personal photo or avatar photo the first time...that's why they kept changing. Now I've removed the old image from my signature, but can't figure out how to add a new one. Bob

I'm glad you brought this up....I was just going to ask you guysabout this...if you couldn't use two pieces glued back to back. I would think it would be a much more nicely finished holster with the lining, I am not concerned about the glue holding, but what about molding...with the cement prevent you from getting a well molded shape? Bob

Thanks Kate...that's why I'm so befuddled! I have done that, have different photos in each, but when I post, my avatar and signature photo are always the same. I know this is silly...but I'm just hard headed enough to become frustrated over something that's not worth my time....but I'm not quitting! Thanks, Bob

I'm about half emabarressed to ask this question, but I'll ask anyway. How do I go about using a differnt photo for my Avatar and my signature. Seems like when I change one, the other changes too. Is that "just the way it is"? Seriously technically challenged! Bob

Deb, the acrylics work just fine...you just have to be careful that they don't get knicked or scratched because then they'll mark your leather. Bob

Hi Steve, As a saddlemaker, you have knowledge of fitting a rig that most cowboys don't have, at least not here, anyway. In this part of the country most cowboys ride the horses they're given and they don't have the finances to pay for a really good quality custom saddle. They spend 90% of their time working cattle, alone, in rough country and more often than not, they're handling cattle that require the use of dogs and only see human beings two or three time a year. I have absolutely no argument with anything you are saying except that, what we are talking about just doesn't apply when competing in the arena. There, you don't ride slick horns, you don't slip rope and you don't avoid the jerk. It's a perfect example of different circumstances requiring different gear. I just don't beleve there is a single rig that meets every demand. I know I sure wouldn't want to have to work outside all day in a roping saddle, I'd be crippled in a hurry! Anyway, I haven't read a single argument in this thread that convinces me that using a back cinch is a detriment...I still think I need one. Just my humble opinion...sometimes you just can't teach an old dog, new tricks! Still pulling two up tight! Long live cowboys! Bob

Another really interesting topic! I don't think there is a definitive answer here. I can tell you that, as a roper, I personally would never even consider not riding a back cinch in the roping arena! I care too much about my horse to take a chance on hurting him. That pretty in-skirt rigging that Troy built has a back cinch for a reason! I have personally seen horses injured when roping, because the back cinch wasn't used properly! I can understand, however, that in principle, a saddle, properly fitted and rigged may reduce the need for a back cinch, when roping. I personally have never seen this. I'm not saying it's not done...I just haven't seen it...in forty plus years of roping, inside and outside, here in Arizona! It is unrealistic for me, to accomplish such a "fit" on each of my rope horses, so I'm using a back cinch and I'm cinching it real tight before every run, for my safety and my horses! I use a back cinch on my working saddle when gathering also...we have some pretty rough country which is not suitable for goats, let alone cattle...so I use it, and a breast collar too. Personally, I don't know any working cowboys in this part of the country who don't use their back cinches. That being said, I can't say with 100% confidence, that the use of back cinches here by working cowboys, is strictly the result of necessity...I suspect that local custom plays a part also. So much of what we do is dictated by what we are taught, which is lnfluenced by the region we're in. Gathering cattle in wheat pastures probably does not require the same equipment as gathering cattle in mesquite thickets. It seems logical that different parts of the country require the use of different equipment. If you're just pleasure riding, in mild country, you probably do not need or a back cinch or a breast collar. And a rear cinch is certainly not needed if you are just exercising you horse in the arena! I think the decision one makes about what equipment to use is based on their particular circumstances...how, where and what you are riding, and not a general rule of thumb. I personally agree with TrooperChuck...I think that a rear cinch is valuable equipent. I just would rather ride a back cinch and not need it, than wish I had it. Bob

Wow Barry....really nice site! Glad it's up and working! Looking forward to visiting at Wickenburg. Bob

Mike...that's beautiful work! Really nice! Bob

I need to let everyone know that I posted on some erroneous information. Paul has informed me that he can make his knives and blades interchangeable with those with round shanks, if desired. I was unaware of that option. My apologies, Bob

In my opinion, the Henleys are by far the best bang for the buck! The machining is excellent and the yokes are mounted in good bearings. After several years of use, the yokes on all my Henleys will still spin freely for over a minute, just like my custom made Beards. Hide crafter used to sell Henley knock offs. They look exactly like the Henley but they don't have the same quality bearings in the yokes. I have several of these because they were $30 or $40 a piece and felt exactly like the Henley. I put my less frequently used, specialty blades in them. I don't know how the bearings hold up under everyday use, but would bet they last as long or longer than any of the AS knives. Bob Beards (Pro Series) standard knife goes for somewhere around $100, as do Chuck Smith knives, and are on an equal par with Beards and about the same price. Both are high end and excellent! I don't use Chucks because the knurling is very fine...I prefer aggresive knurling on the barrel, which allows me to roll the knife out to my fingertips and still hang on to it. I love Barry's tools but am not a fan of his knives. I don't care for the Stohlmans either, especially with the leather barrel...way too slippery for me. I agree with Randy...highly overrated! The Osbornes are basically the same as Tandy's. I have never used any of Pauls knives (Leather Wrangler). They are all aluminum and everyone I know who has one really likes it! I've never heard anything negative, except that they are expensive. However, round shanked blades won't fit in his barrels, nor will his blades fit in a standard barrel. That won't work for me! The swivelknives I use everyday are Bob Beards, which I had him make for me, and Henleys. I use Beards blades because they are extremely hard and stay sharp! I have been told that the ceramic blades are very good, however, if you chip one it's history. I don't have any problem sharping my blades, so I see no advantage with the ceramic. I highly recommend spending the money on a quality swivelknife and blade. Cutting is like the foundation of your house...not a good place to save money! Your knife cuts have more direct impact on the finished product than any other single tool you'll own. As you progress you'll find yourself needing more than one knife...and different widths for different cutting requirements. I agree with Randy, about trying the various brands out at a show, getting them in your hands, see what fits...most are adjustable...some are not, and there are a lot lengths, widths and styles to choose from.