hidepounder

Peter...Here's my process: First I edge, then wet the edge, liberally apply Fiebings Glycerin barsoap to the edge, mechinically slick with heavy canvas sparingly impregnated with Fiebings paste soap (at approx 1750 rpm). Next, I slick with a rub stick, either mechanically or by hand(depending on the job and how the finish is looking at this point) and then I dye the edges, making sure to get good penetration and full coverage (using Fiebings spirit dye). When the dye is dry, I wipe off the residue (re-dye anything I'm not happy with), slick again mechanically with parafin coated canvas (at 1750 rpm), remove the residue with a cloth, polish with a clean, dry, soft cloth. And there you have it! I will say, however, that this process is continually evolving as I learn new tips and discover new products and methods. Hope this helps! Bob

Thanks Windy, I appreciate it. I think leatherworkers skip too many steps when doing edges........the project is almost done, they want to move on, burnishing is monotenous, etc., etc. The reality is that is if you want to present a finished looking job, you have to spend time on the edges. It's the mark of a professional and demonstrates your attention to detail. Bob

Sure Julia....just wrap a wood burnisher with the canvas. I've been doing that for some time!

Elton...beautiful chaps!.....a lot of work! Aren't they heavy for performance chaps? I work with "hair on" hides quite a bit and appreciate what you've done here! I know exactly what you mean about gluing to the hair. I finally started shaving some of the hair off to allow my glue to adhere to the leather. I don't try to shave it all off, just enough to get the pieces to stick together properly....and just hold back away from your finished edge. It takes more time up front, makes a real mess and looks like hell, but saves time in the end. And you'll really see the difference when you're sewing...it won't be such a wrestling match! Just something that works for me. Bob

That's a very nice compliment bobocat, I appreciate it! Bob

Kim, I don't know if buffalo will burnish or not. I use "hair on" cowhide quite a bit and it does not burnish well. I've seen it done, but it looks unfinished and unprofessional. So when I'm using something that will not burnish, I wrap the edges with a 2 oz binding and sew it. A binding can be made out of almost any kind of unfinished or finished leather. That's the only way I know of to deal with that kind of an edge to make the piece look finished correctly. Bob

Crystal...what a great job! Now I can really see what you where struggling with on the small tools we were talking about. But you nailed it! Definitely do some more of this stuff, it's great! Bob

I don't have any hot ideas, but that's a beautiful set of bags!

Troy, I don't think there are that many RubyAt blades still in use,................but ceramics...........................that's the real future for West International Blade & Knife Works! "Just a cut above"!

Troy.....I think you're about to need a another manager.............................

I use spirit dyes and I do all my dyeing before I oil. I have dyed backgrounding after oiling, but it takes longer to dry. I have only dyed lettering before oiling. Also, it's important to let the dye completely dry before applying the first coat of Neat-Lac, because Neat-Lac will pick up the dye! That's easy Hilly....if the Neat-Lac fumes begin to dissapate, I open up my can of Barge!

As far as I know, that is correct.

Another great job Tina...you surprised me with the design this time! Bob

Fantastic Tina, really nice work! I love the finger carved peacock! Bob

I also use the Versa Groover. In addition I use Bob Douglas' free hand groovers, sizes #1 & #2. I also have a J. Watt groover that I have installed a Douglas blade in. I never sew anymore without grooving first.

Harvey, I'm flattered that you like the finish I've been using. I can't speak for Bruce, but this is what I do..........I take lots of pictures with different settings and then pick out the color I like best and post in on LW! Just kidding....! I think the process I use is kind of an "industry standard" among toolers. Once I've finished tooling, I clean the piece with oxalic acid and let it dry completely. Next I lightly oil using 100% neatsfoot oil or olive oil. After several hours, usually overnight, I apply a coat of Neat-Lac and let that dry. Next I apply Fiebings paste antique, remove all the residue, and buff with wool skin. I let that dry for a few hours and then apply a couple light coats of Neat-Lac for a final finish. And that's it...no magic! Hope this helps.... Bob

Thanks Steve...I usually edge with the same size edger, but not always. I line everything I make and there are occasions when I'll use a different size on the lining side. And yes, I burnish first, then spirit dye, then burnish again. Here's another example of my burnished edge... Bob

Kate, Thanks you for jumping in and helping...I really appreciate it! cdthayer Thank you also...what was happening is just what you thought. Johanna, Thanks for coming to my rescue. I figured out the "poor boy" way of getting a photo in my signature, but now that I know how, I haven't decided what to use....let you know when find something I like. Thanks again everybody! Bob

Thanks for helping Kate. I want to learn how to insert an image into my signature. I think I copied and pasted directly from my personal photo or avatar photo the first time...that's why they kept changing. Now I've removed the old image from my signature, but can't figure out how to add a new one. Bob

I'm glad you brought this up....I was just going to ask you guysabout this...if you couldn't use two pieces glued back to back. I would think it would be a much more nicely finished holster with the lining, I am not concerned about the glue holding, but what about molding...with the cement prevent you from getting a well molded shape? Bob

Thanks Kate...that's why I'm so befuddled! I have done that, have different photos in each, but when I post, my avatar and signature photo are always the same. I know this is silly...but I'm just hard headed enough to become frustrated over something that's not worth my time....but I'm not quitting! Thanks, Bob

I'm about half emabarressed to ask this question, but I'll ask anyway. How do I go about using a differnt photo for my Avatar and my signature. Seems like when I change one, the other changes too. Is that "just the way it is"? Seriously technically challenged! Bob

Deb, the acrylics work just fine...you just have to be careful that they don't get knicked or scratched because then they'll mark your leather. Bob

Hi Steve, As a saddlemaker, you have knowledge of fitting a rig that most cowboys don't have, at least not here, anyway. In this part of the country most cowboys ride the horses they're given and they don't have the finances to pay for a really good quality custom saddle. They spend 90% of their time working cattle, alone, in rough country and more often than not, they're handling cattle that require the use of dogs and only see human beings two or three time a year. I have absolutely no argument with anything you are saying except that, what we are talking about just doesn't apply when competing in the arena. There, you don't ride slick horns, you don't slip rope and you don't avoid the jerk. It's a perfect example of different circumstances requiring different gear. I just don't beleve there is a single rig that meets every demand. I know I sure wouldn't want to have to work outside all day in a roping saddle, I'd be crippled in a hurry! Anyway, I haven't read a single argument in this thread that convinces me that using a back cinch is a detriment...I still think I need one. Just my humble opinion...sometimes you just can't teach an old dog, new tricks! Still pulling two up tight! Long live cowboys! Bob

Another really interesting topic! I don't think there is a definitive answer here. I can tell you that, as a roper, I personally would never even consider not riding a back cinch in the roping arena! I care too much about my horse to take a chance on hurting him. That pretty in-skirt rigging that Troy built has a back cinch for a reason! I have personally seen horses injured when roping, because the back cinch wasn't used properly! I can understand, however, that in principle, a saddle, properly fitted and rigged may reduce the need for a back cinch, when roping. I personally have never seen this. I'm not saying it's not done...I just haven't seen it...in forty plus years of roping, inside and outside, here in Arizona! It is unrealistic for me, to accomplish such a "fit" on each of my rope horses, so I'm using a back cinch and I'm cinching it real tight before every run, for my safety and my horses! I use a back cinch on my working saddle when gathering also...we have some pretty rough country which is not suitable for goats, let alone cattle...so I use it, and a breast collar too. Personally, I don't know any working cowboys in this part of the country who don't use their back cinches. That being said, I can't say with 100% confidence, that the use of back cinches here by working cowboys, is strictly the result of necessity...I suspect that local custom plays a part also. So much of what we do is dictated by what we are taught, which is lnfluenced by the region we're in. Gathering cattle in wheat pastures probably does not require the same equipment as gathering cattle in mesquite thickets. It seems logical that different parts of the country require the use of different equipment. If you're just pleasure riding, in mild country, you probably do not need or a back cinch or a breast collar. And a rear cinch is certainly not needed if you are just exercising you horse in the arena! I think the decision one makes about what equipment to use is based on their particular circumstances...how, where and what you are riding, and not a general rule of thumb. I personally agree with TrooperChuck...I think that a rear cinch is valuable equipent. I just would rather ride a back cinch and not need it, than wish I had it. Bob