hidepounder

Thanks Todd and Rusty...I appreciate your comments! Happy Holidays! Bob

It'll be beef filets and Crown SR at our place...not necessarily in that order! I sure have met some great folks in the short time I've been here at LW and I value the friendship...so here's a toast to all of you! May you never lose a stirrup. May you never waste a loop. May your can stay full of syrup, And your gizzard full of whoop! * * * HAPPY HOLIDAYS! From our outfit to yours

LMAO...you guys crack me up! Happy Holidays everyone!

Thanks David, I feel the same way about your work! Hurry up and get well so we can see some more of it! Happy Holidays! Bob

I'm sure they will! Last year, Al had me bring in a rope bag I had just finished to show his class. He's a great guy!

Thanks Greybeard...I don't know about setting the bar....but I sure do appreciate the compliment! Bob

Thanks Tina, I appreciated it! I'll be in Wickenburg also...it's sorta my home town. Who's teaching your class, Al Gould? Bob

Sounds fun!.....I'm in!

Very nice first large project! I think you did a good job getting the color even throughout the piece. I also like the pattern you selected. It's a perfect example of how less is more! I agree with you about the round holes, a thonging chisel (gang punch) would have been better. Glad to hear that you lined it...makes a much more professional finish. Again, nice job! Bob

Johnny, Rick, Crystal, Tina, Darryl, Greybeard, Rusty, Alan, Mike, Roo, Clay, Bree, Freak, Mike D, Mark, Mike P.......Thanks, all of you! I appreciate your kindness and support! Your comments always inspire me to go make something better. I hope you all have a great Holiday and a Happy New Year! Bob

I use an Artisan 797AB for just those size projects. I can use up to 207 thread.....but I have discovered I like using 138 and 92/99 for those size projects. It's a walking foot machine that sews up to approx 3/8 thick material.

Neat-Lac

Looks REALLY nice Andy! Like to see more pictures!

I use a gum eraser...that works well. However sometimes you still have to use the dull needle.

This organizer is a Christmas present I just completed for a customer...(my last Xmas project! Whew!)...and if you know this brand...please don't spill the beans...it's a surprise! I make a lot of these organizers for the Horse Show community. Owners and contestants use them to maintain their horse papers, licenses, membership cards, etc., which they are required to present upon entering a Show. It's a full size 8x10, zippered organizer. The exterior (7/8 oz Herman Oak) is tooled, dyed, finished with Neatlac and stitched with Rice #99 thread. The silver flower centers are solid sterling. The spine is a piece of 7/8 oz split down to 5/6 oz with a stiffener added to accomodate the 1", three ring binder. The interior (2/3 oz Calf), is finger carved, finished with Tan-Kote and stitched with Rice #69 thread. As always, I welcome your critiques/comments and I wish you all a Happy Holidays!

I'm sure Bob's awls fit Barry's hafts...don't know why they wouldn't...but Bob make beautiful awl hafts, also!

I really like the colors Elton, and the filigree really shows up nice! Another beautiful pair of chaps! Bob

I don't believe I'm doing this... Hobbit: Mongo Sackville-Bracegirdle Elven: Oropher Tasardur (................and I wondered why no one ever calls me!..............)

After wrapping the burnishing wheel with two or three good wraps, I used electricians tape on the ends to hold it there. That was just going to be temporary until I figured it all out....but it's still holding, so I've left it alone. The canvas is saturated with saddle soap and has confromed to the shape of the burnishing wheel. For the most part, it holds itself on. I used some Barge on the loose end and it is holding fairly well. The whole thing could probably be Barged together right to the wheel.

Nice job Steve...I just love the in-skirt rigging!

Peter...Here's my process: First I edge, then wet the edge, liberally apply Fiebings Glycerin barsoap to the edge, mechinically slick with heavy canvas sparingly impregnated with Fiebings paste soap (at approx 1750 rpm). Next, I slick with a rub stick, either mechanically or by hand(depending on the job and how the finish is looking at this point) and then I dye the edges, making sure to get good penetration and full coverage (using Fiebings spirit dye). When the dye is dry, I wipe off the residue (re-dye anything I'm not happy with), slick again mechanically with parafin coated canvas (at 1750 rpm), remove the residue with a cloth, polish with a clean, dry, soft cloth. And there you have it! I will say, however, that this process is continually evolving as I learn new tips and discover new products and methods. Hope this helps! Bob

Thanks Windy, I appreciate it. I think leatherworkers skip too many steps when doing edges........the project is almost done, they want to move on, burnishing is monotenous, etc., etc. The reality is that is if you want to present a finished looking job, you have to spend time on the edges. It's the mark of a professional and demonstrates your attention to detail. Bob

Sure Julia....just wrap a wood burnisher with the canvas. I've been doing that for some time!

Elton...beautiful chaps!.....a lot of work! Aren't they heavy for performance chaps? I work with "hair on" hides quite a bit and appreciate what you've done here! I know exactly what you mean about gluing to the hair. I finally started shaving some of the hair off to allow my glue to adhere to the leather. I don't try to shave it all off, just enough to get the pieces to stick together properly....and just hold back away from your finished edge. It takes more time up front, makes a real mess and looks like hell, but saves time in the end. And you'll really see the difference when you're sewing...it won't be such a wrestling match! Just something that works for me. Bob