niakulah

Thanks for all the replies. Yup I've seen most of Nigel's YouTube videos. And I've been subscribed to his Vimeo channel for a few months as well, and I can really see how much more valuable it is than his free YouTube videos. The good experience I've had with Nigel's paid Vimeo channel is one of the reasons I'm interested in Leather Masterclass. If Nigel's YouTube videos are good and his Vimeo channel is great, would I have a similar experience with Leather Masterclass? I guess that's the real question I'm looking to get answered. Hopefully there is someone on here who has paid for the course who can chime in.

Anyone bought or subscribed to any of these courses? https://www.leathercraftmasterclass.com/online-courses The content description and their Instagram looks compelling but the price is a bit high, 30 pounds per video. So I thought I'd check here if anyone has bought any and what they think of it? Is it worth the money?

This might be a silly question from a rank amateur, but couldn't you trim the edges after wet forming?

It took only about 2 days of carrying the item around in my pocket. And maybe peeling is not exactly the right word to describe what happened to my items. For the high gloss, it developed some less shiny spots as though it were peeling, but I never actually saw or felt anything coming off. For the extra matte, it developed some cloudy white spots. Both were done on black leather, on top of black semi-dense.

I'd be interested to know how you find the topcoats. I have both the glossy and extra matte topcoats and I found that it peeled very easily on my test items.

Would like to know the details too if anybody knows. Chester Mox! One of the reasons I got into leatherworking. I have a 6 pocket cardholder from them in Ilcea museum calf that is just sublime! Instagram is the best place to find people like Chester MOX, IMHO. I follow around 300+ leatherworkers, shoemakers, toolmakers and other related tradesmen on IG. Here are (in no particular order) some of my favorite leatherworkers: https://www.instagram.com/yoshii6x6/ https://www.instagram.com/simaprague/ https://www.instagram.com/pierpont_leather/ https://www.instagram.com/niwa_leathers/ https://www.instagram.com/atelierpetrov/ https://www.instagram.com/aprilinparis_sf/ https://www.instagram.com/unosleather/ https://www.instagram.com/equusleather/ https://www.instagram.com/libertaz_leathers/ https://www.instagram.com/alexandervonbronewski/ https://www.instagram.com/mattnudi_leathers/ https://www.instagram.com/atelier_subdivise/ https://www.instagram.com/godana_official/ https://www.instagram.com/shopfirsthill/ https://www.instagram.com/zj.handwork/ https://www.instagram.com/fullgraincreations/

Ah ok. I've already domed my ball peen hammer's face. It is only 30mm across though. I feel insufficient. lol Good tip. Thanks.

I've only ever seen cobblers hammers in photos so perhaps I'm missing something. For the purpose of hammering down leather that's being glued together, is it any better than, say, the flat head of a ball peen hammer?

Thank you!

The paint sticks to itself really well and forms a nice rounded surface all by itself. So after doing the top, quickly do the 2 sides while it's wet so that they stick to each other and make a continuous surface. If you make a smudge on the grain just quickly wipe it off with a clean finger. Keep the leather upright (wet edge on top) until the paint starts to become firm. It only takes about 5 minutes in my 20+ °C weather.

Pics as promised. 3 coats of Giardini.

Not an expert by any means, but I did manage to get a decent edge using Giardini semi-dense and dense paints through a lot of trial and error. Applicator - Tried the rolling applicator that came with the kit, a round awl, a pencil, and a paint box with brass rollers. Could not get it to apply smoothly with any of those except for the paint box, but that still had high/thick spots. I had NO prior experience so it could definitely have been a problem with the applicator, the person In the end I settled on this applicator. Also available from DLS and RMLS. For prep, I bevel and sand the edges up to 400 grit. I just bought this as well and I think it works very well to give me a nice rounded edge. I know that Giardini recommends that you apply it to a rough edge and then sand in between but I could never get it to be as smooth as I would like it to be. I have a leather wrapped knife that has 3 coats of Giardini semi-dense on its edges. After painting I carried it around in my pocket for about 2 weeks just to see if the paint would come off. That was about 6 months ago and I haven't had any issues with the paint peeling so far. I'm at work and I don't have a pic of it so I'll try to snap one and post it here after I get home.

How is his round knife for cutting tight curves? I was thinking of getting his pattern knife for curves: https://www.dhgate.com/store/product/leahtercrafts-handmade-tools-skiving-knife/400568703.html But if his round knife can do curves reasonably well, it would be the more versatile of the two and a better buy to me.

Might be better off asking at a shoemaking forum. http://www.thehcc.org/forum/viewforum.php?f=4

As you can see from my previous post, I can barely string together 2 coherent sentences. Now if this bumbling idiot can do it after watching Nigel Armitage's Vimeo channel, you can too. I hope I don't sound like I'm advertising his paid channel. I'm just a very happy customer.

Hmmm....you're probably right. Which got me thinking how I managed to do just that. I probably flipped it around and upside down as well to maintain the hole orientation. Bearing in mind that this was during my beginner days when I didn't have a pony or any other sort of clamp to get in the way. Wait that doesn't make sense. Scratch that. Nowadays, the way I stitch I can pretty much go in any direction, I just change the way I cross my needles (over or under) and which hand goes in first.

Nigel does have a paid Vimeo channel where he has a video explaining how to get a nice slant on both sides. Lots of other useful videos as well. But since you want just the front to be nice, wouldn't the easiest way be to simply swap the leather around?

I use a large quilting ruler. They do make non-slip versions but mine's just a regular one. It doesn't slip very easily because of the huge surface area. It's also been a huge help in getting my corners square.

Bought this same knife too. As a beginner I had zero success skiving with it. I found this to be much better value: https://www.m.ebay.com/itm/WUTA-Leather-Craft-Cutter-Leather-Skiver-Cutting-Knife-High-Speed-Steel-/152933452519?nav=SEARCH And it can be used upside down too, giving a nice shallow angle.

10 dollars here. 9.50 for 2 on the app PGFDouble head replacing metal wire mesh edge oil, pen style leather carving tool http://s.aliexpress.com/6VbYJbmu (from AliExpress Android)

Just sharing something I read some time ago: https://www.styleforum.net/threads/equus-leather-bridle-leather-belts-official-affiliate-thread.260644/page-87#post-7264092 Apparently it allows for the prong to sit nicely without resorting to huge holes.

There are some creasers that have creasing legs wide enough to do that. I've bought one myself to try it out (some Chinese brand). Works particularly well with Wuta or Amy Roke pricking irons that don't have a sharp tip to follow a thin crease line. The tips of the prongs fit nicely in the depression made by the thick creasers. Not used it for any projects yet though.

http://www.auroraleatherware.com/store/p282/Elle_Master_Edger.htmlhttp://www.auroraleatherware.com/store/p282/Elle_Master_Edger.html This looks to be the one? By the way, have you ever tried the Wuta edger? Have been thinking of getting one, but the lack of reviews is making me hesitate.