Pintodeluxe

I would pay more for a rb-1 or rb-2 but generally I'd take any of them over an rb-5. Give me old Japanese iron please. Expect to pay 1K for a nice machine with variable speed servo and complete table setup. Much less in some markets, and a little more in other markets. Condition is everything, and indicates the "mileage" on the machine.

You might try Nickosew. I've bought used / obsolete Pfaff parts from his outfit before. No complaints.

On Pfaff I think they are alignment dots, so the gears go back together the same way. Sometimes gears are not perfectly concentric with the hole in the middle. Once they wear in, everything is smooth. But, if you put it back together in a different orientation, all bets are off.

There's nothing about winding a bobbin that should throw it out of wack. Just make sure you raise the presser foot as you wind the bobbin. If thread is getting caught underneath by the bobbin, it's likely that your timing and / or needle bar height are off slightly. It's pretty easy to knock the needle bar sewing over a thick seam. If the needle bar screw isn't really snug, it can move upward. So start by confirming your timing and needle bar height. Also, a drop of oil down by the bobbin case works wonders on my 563.

I agree the type of needle makes a difference how the stitches look. Also make sure the needle is inserted correctly. The eye of the needle should be oriented true left-to-right (not diagonally). Good luck with it!

I didn't mean to say that a Juki LU-563 is better, but I just prefer it. The reasons are primarily the huge U style bobbin on the 563. Plus I've always preferred a top loading bobbin machine. I started on a Consew 226 and got used to that style. Changing bobbins on side loading machines is awkward for me, but ultimately you get used to whatever machine you use. As far as speed reducers, get a box style reducer if you can. The standard style reducers often prevent you from tipping the machine back for maintenance / oiling. The box style reducers mount where your motor normally sits, then the motor attaches below the reducer. Good luck with whatever you decide!

It depends what you need it to do. Comparable to a 206RB-5, maybe a little better due to country of origin and manufacturing standards. I like them okay. I wouldn't trade my Juki 563 for it, but they sew fine. Capacity = 3/8" total leather thickness. Side loading big M style bobbin. True triple feed walking foot. Add a box style speed reducer and a servo, and it could be a sweet runner.

These will fit... currently listed on eBay for $2.78 each. Get the 45mm one (1.77") 38" belt. 39" belt may work, but 38" belt for sure.

The maximum speed dial will have a point where it won't sew. They're all like that. Just turn it up enough to have some power, but not so high that it's too fast. I agree with Wiz, a 45mm motor pulley helps some. They're $2 on eBay. You'll need a 38" or 39" belt.

Make sure to have a little material in the machine when you make the adjustment. When you loosen the two screws, confirm that the feet come down to the material before you tighten the screws. Sometimes they will stick slightly and the feet will still be off. Push the feet down with your finger when the screws are loose.

Study Uwe's video a little more. You need to position the needle so it is just touching the material. At that exact position, loosen the two screws next to the wingnut. The feet will automatically go back to the correct timing. Tighten the two screws again, and you should be good.

About a teaspoon of grease on the friction plate. It just makes it slip a little smoother, but didn't cause unwanted slipping. I've never tried grease on the brake.

I tried this mod, but felt like it was a waste of time. For me, I settled on a servo and a box style speed reducer. I probably could have got away with just a servo. The only thing I've found that truly makes a clutch motor easier to control is to add grease to the friction plate. Especially if it was previously dried out, greasing the cork friction plate helps you slip the clutch. Is your clutch mounted to a reducer? Or some other reason it sits so low?

I've heard people say it can have an effect on loop size at the hook/needle intersection. I've never confirmed that info. I always set mine in the center of the slot, and have never had a problem that couldn't be sorted with other adjustments. Someone here will know the answer.

Some good advice has been posted here. I would also suggest switching to a thread / needle combination that doesn't max out your machine. For testing purposes, switch to a 92 weight thread and a #20 needle. Then go through the hook timing and spacing procedures. See if you can get it sewing well with lighter thread. You can step up the thread size later, once you have it tuned. I'd also be interested in the condition of the upper tension mechanism. If you loosen the upper tension a little, does the upper thread pull freely? Also, please post some pictures of your thread path including the thread stand. Best of luck.

I used to have a 563 with no oil port there. My current 563 has the oil port. You are correct, it's a sealed bearing so they didn't put a hole in the casting.

Just stick with the name brands mentioned and you'll be fine. The only issue I've had is with unbranded needles that shredded thread immediately.

I have had this happen with standard feet modified to be a zipper foot. There was an abrupt edge towards the back of the foot, and it would often hang up on seams and transitions. Are you using a standard foot or zipper foot?

Motor HP claims are notoriously incorrect. Just call it a 550 watt and use that to compare one model of servo to another. I second the Family 550 servo (aka New Tech, Rex, Consew). I use them with and without reducers. Approaching 20oz of total leather sewn, the reducer is nice. But with lighter / thinner leather than that, the reducer probably isn't necessary. Best of luck with it.

It was my understanding that there is no left-right adjustment of the needle bar on these machines. Try loosening the needle bar and rotating it 90 degrees. Re-check needle to feed dog clearance. If it changed, that to me would indicate a bent needle bar.

So the tab on the bobbin case can slip out of the notch while you're sewing? Screws holding the throat plate down are snug? No lint or debris preventing the throat plate from seating properly? Hopefully the new part will solve the issue.

Great, glad is was something easy to fix!

Are you saying that the hand lifter doesn't lift the feet? Or are you saying that the feet don't walk up and down when you are sewing? Is the wingnut behind the machine loose? Sometimes it's not a wingnut, but just a small 8mm or 10mm nut. If loose in the slot, the feet won't lift correctly and the machine will be noisy. I may be way off base, because I don't fully understand your post yet.

You are on the right track. You'll need to learn how to set the hook timing with the machine in the timing position. Check out the Uwe Grosse Youtube video on how to time a Consew 225. That's the best video I have seen for hook timing.

I've had machines do that, and discovered it was a faulty bobbin case. I know you did mention that the bobbin was unspooling ok. I would slowly pull a fair amount of bobbin thread by hand. Is the bobbin tension smooth and consistent, or does the tension seem to increase sporadically? Also, do pre-wound bobbins result in the same inconsistent stitch? Best of luck with it.