R8R

Ya think?

Cool. That said, if it seems like a junker and the owner is clueless, no big deal walking away.

Note with either of the above 2 machines they are so cheap you can add a very good servo motor, spend a little money on getting it timed and tuned, and still be well below like $800. You could even buy both and add nice servos for less than a Juki. Just food for thought, there are options.

Consew 226: https://columbus.craigslist.org/atq/d/consew-226r-1-sewing-machine/6729083278.html Descendant of the 111W, but with a reverse lever. This machine will also eat wallets for breakfast.

Singer 111W155 right now on CL: https://columbus.craigslist.org/art/d/commercial-sewing-machine/6730889756.html This is a well loved machine on this forum. Tons of info. There is not a more ubiquitous or venerable machine than that. Pretty much every compound walking foot machine made has this machine's DNA. Literally million of parts have been made for it. Will sew wallets and the like all day every day. SUPER tough. Can be serviced by dunking the whole head in kerosene and re-oiling. (seriously)

Hello, welcome to the forum. First things first, what are you needing to sew? What materials, what thread, how thick are the final assemblies, etc. The machines you listed above are very different for their intended purposes. Or in other words, you *can* haul lumber in a compact sedan, but maybe a pickup truck is better.

Free. Seriously.

Thanks! So I can assume diagrams like this pointing to 3 different greases are being a little ridiculous. Do they really expect anyone to apply different lubes like this in the field?

Good to know. I am partial to Synco Super Lube ptfe grease. M&R specs it for their automatic screen printing presses, it's all I used for years, zero parts failures with it. For a Juki...is four different greases really a required thing though?

This was cheap and they threw in boxes and boxes of thread, webbing, zippers, etc. Couldn't pass it up. Do you know if later control panels can be retrofitted to this machine? IP410, IP420, etc?

Same thing on the used LK-1900A I just got, but there are FOUR different recommended greases. WTF?

The 1460 is the same type of model Sailrite cloned for their Fabricator machine. All of the adjustments and tuning should be the same. Sailrite has a VERY thorough user/adjustment manual. Everything about that machine is covered. https://www.sailrite.com/PDF/2016_Fabricator_Guidebook.pdf I had one of these machines and for what it was, I loved it. Only reason I sold it was to get something with more foot lift/capacity. The only big difference with the 1460 will be the handwheel/belt/motor, Sailrite has a proprietary drive setup.

I worked at an event stage and lighting company and the woman who ran our drape shop was one of the top paid people on the crew.

This one is maple butcher top, black frame: https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/work-benches/tables-stands/shop-stands/24-x-36-x-24-standard-shop-stand-maple-black A little oil finish and it would be a damn nice stand.

Not a very wide foot print, and who knows how much play you get with that many moving parts? I've ordered many machine stands from Global when I ran a screen print shop. They were all good quality. Mounted our single color manual press, tagging machines, etc. https://www.globalindustrial.com/c/work-benches/tables-stands

It's a drapery tacker, and an old clunker at that. Single purpose machine: tack pleats into drapes.

Also, I can vouch for Artisan's table stands. They are well made and sturdy, I have two in my shop now, one under my 2810 and one I just picked up to go under Mauser 335. (they share the building with my Juki dealer in SF).

Genuine 1508's are some of the Juki machines still made in Japan. The ones I've seen and briefly used are nice machines. Smooth and quiet. Artisan offers a 1508NH (heavy version) clone for $1700. Their machines are decent and they know how to time and tune for heavy. That said, clones are clones.

I just eyeball it. (with reading glasses on...)

They are round because there might be different orientations of the needle depending on what machine it's going into. One needle system might fit dozens of different machines. Home machine needles almost always orient one way, hence the flat machined into it. The needle should be oriented always with the scarf (the thinner relieved area above the eye) toward the hook. The hook "hooks" the thread loop in the scarf.

Ok the 2810 engineer's manual (thanks again Greg!) says to grease the machine under standard duty every 2 to 3 years. Not days, not months. YEARS. However, they list 3 different greases, with Juki "A" grease being the predominant one, plus "Unirex N3" (which is an industrial grease from Mobil) But excuse me Juki...WTF is "Barch L1002"?? It's not even coming up on google. Is there a single solution grease that I can slap in there when the time comes?

Thanks but I already have the manual, the latest edition of the parts list, and the engineer's manual! When I get a used machine it goes through a thorough clean / inspect / restore phase before I put it to use. That way if I want to sell it later it's good to go with little fuss. It's in overall great shape, just needs a cleaning and a few typical wear items replaced (table hinges are a bit tweaked, needs new table bumpers, etc) and any deferred maintenance (basically just greasing) The hook needs a little polishing. That's the only issue I've found that affects the stitches and if the bit of rough end on the point doesn't polish out I can just get a new one. For the feed plates and clamps I'll give Camatron a call or one of the other places that does custom clamps. I'd like to get it doing .75" box x's and a few other things. The big thing was the bartacks though...I can maybe fake 1 out of 10 that look even remotely decent with my zig zag machine. I just don't have that kind of jedi skill to make them look right by hand.

The price of a machine is completely relative to the experience of the purchaser. If you are very well studied in old Juki machines and know what to look for, you know what they should go for. Once you need to start buying parts (or making parts even) it gets to be less of a value. That said, generic parts for the old school Juki machines are DIRT cheap. Like probably cheaper than buying the material stock and making your own. Look, look and look, all while doing your homework. Used machines are a game of study, patience and timing. Bring a sample of what you expect to sew (and maybe even the correct needle for it) and try the machine out. If it sews *what you want it to sew* with minimal adjustment, and the owner seems like they knew enough about it to take care of it, then go for it. If you can't try the machine out and inspect it carefully on site, walk away. Once you get it home, it's your headache.

Do you use it for straight bartacking or have you adapted it for other patterns like box x, etc?

Maybe not. This is the exact same base... https://www.sewperfecttables.com/sewing-table-dream.shtml Hmm.