BondoBobCustomSaddles

Thanks again for the kind comments. I was particularly pleased with how the tooling turned out, since I used a lot of the tips I got from Bob Park's book, and also I used a specific flower that he uses and didn't want to "bugger it up". It was mentioned that it was hard to see the tooling because of the color and the overall pics. Here are some better pics, still trying to get this picture taking thing down. Thanks Again for looking! Bob

You will be happy with your machine. Bob

Hi I'm Bob and I just here to make sure Bruce is OK! LOL! Bob

All good advice from Wiz. Wiz is....well.....a Wiz at this stuff! Also, what is the price they are asking? Bob

Good story Bruce! There are so many of those in life. Kinda lends credence to that old line from "Tall in the saddle", goes something like, "I like grumpy old cuss', hope to live long enough to be one!". LOL! Have a good one all. Bob

Very nice! That's what I call a friend! Bob

It looks like some type of early press. I am sure Bruce will know. He's the guy. Bob

Very Interesting, West Coast of Ireland! Welcome to the forum. Your saddle is very nice. Well done , and from what I can see of the pics, you have done a really nice job on all aspects. It is clean, neat, and appears to be well balanced. The things that I look at specifically in a saddle as an indicator as to how well it is done are, the tightness of the ear cuts, the finish on the edges, the fit of the cantle binding and especially the stitching. It is hard to do a good job of hand stitching the cantle with visible stitches and make it look as though it was machine stitched, but; attention to those details are what sets a run of the mill saddle apart from a really well made high end saddle. Like they say, the devil in in the details. Nice job! Bob

Glad you found us! and Welcome Bob

Thank You to all for the kind comments! To answer the questions, it actually took about 4 mos to make, once the tree was here, and we actually started. Tom, the actual color is black background and the detail is dark brown (feiblings pro oil die) all done on Wicket & Craig leather and yes it is real sheep skin. Once again, thanks to those who took the time to comment. Bob

Shown is the latest saddle out of my shop. It was made for a 13 year old that shows an Arab. Since this young lady has some growing to do, I made the stirrups with a lot of adjustment, starting with where she is now, to about 8 additional inches of leg growth. that necessitated a slightly lower seat jockey than usual to allow that adjustment without having the fender hanging out below the jockey in a couple of years. This is a 14 1/2" seat, as she is an will likely continue to be a slender girl even after she finishes growth. It is made on a bowman tree with Arab bars, and a youth horn. It has an insert padded, std cantle with exposed stitching on the binding. In-skirt rigging, skirts are cut-out to facilitated closer leg contact and full tooling. Please feel free to critique. Bob

Like Jim, I usually go between 6" to 7" depending on the rider. Bob

Welcome to the forum Andie! You will find lots of friendly and experienced folks here. Pics are always welcome. Be sure and post and show your work as you develop. Again, welcome! Bob

Mike, certainly adding some raw hide would make it stronger, however; I think you are now in the overkill range. Those saddles that I have seen where the rigging has pulled loose or out, have usually been due to either rivets not set correctly or just plain many years of use and neglect. Two pieces of 11 to 13 oz. leather with the ring sandwiched between will wear a good long time. Bob

For my money , in-skirt, regular, or plate rigging when done right, will all get good grades. To me it is a matter of customer preference, that determines which I make for a specific customer. I have made and use all three, and not found a difference that I would put one ahead of the other. For my personal saddles, I usually make plate rigging. Done right, they are all strong and durable and last a long time. Like Toot said, look at well used saddles and look where they are worn. Then make up your own mid as to what it is that you like. Bob

Nice job Wayne. I am sure that the customer will be happy with it. Again, nice job.Bob

Basically, like Bruce and the others, I don't glue at all. Between stitching about 6" from the buckles or end of the stirrup leather creates a good tight strap. Besides you may want to replace the stirrup leathers some day, and; if glued like you suggest, you will hear some new words spoken by the craftsman doing the work! Bob

R, here are a couple of pages out of the Stohlman books that show layout of parts on hides. Sorry about the blurry pics, but; it's too damn cold to hold the camera perfectly still! At any rate you can get some idea of how to lay out, certain pieces on a hide and where not to lay them out to get the best durability for stirrup leathers, fenders, seat leather and so on. While this is not the only way you can get it done, it will help you get to that 2 hide goal. Personally, I usually get a little pickey on what I use and so it get's me a little past 2 hides to get one done, but; then I usually have several projects going on at the same time and so I just use what I need from a 3rd since I have it here anyways. If I were not so pickey, I probably could get 2 saddles without rear cinches, out of 3 hides, but; my customers expect the best from me, an that's what I give them. Hope that helps you some. Bob

First, congats on the new addition you and your wife are expecting. Kids are a never ending source of enjoyment. Second, I have learned that you are never too old to learn a new trick or two. If you keep reading this forum, you will see that just when you think you have it all in hand, someone will show up with a new way. That's what is good about communicating with fellow leatherworker. As you said, invaluable resource. Again, Congrats on the new little leather worker you are expecting. Bob

Brent, I find that the way you do it is mostly the way I do it, with just a little difference. I fully case the leather then form it to the seat the same as most do. Once it is dry and formed, I began to lay out my patterns. After initial casing, I simply wet the seat over all with a spray of my "special mix" which consists of some distilled water mixed with some dish washing soap and Listerine, to keep the surface at a consistency that allows me to get a good carve and tool in. As for how I work each panel, if I can get it flat on my stamping plate, I do so, but; in the case of areas that do not lend themselves to flattening out, I mount the seat back on the tree, and mount the tree in my Modified Ole George. That allows me to position the area I want to work on at the best angle to get to it and tool. Not uncommon that I will have it on my bench and on my tree several times during the tooling process. I am attaching some pics of one I am working on presently. Please excuse the flash on the pictures, I haven't yet learned how to get nice pics that show the piece the way it really looks. This saddle as you can see is not finished, but; in various stages of stain. Bob

Aso interested in information about exhibiting work. Bob

Be sure an keep us informed of all that are attending and all that is going on, exhibits, vendors classes etc. This show is only 3 hrs away, and I plan on at least getting out to see what the others are doing. Bob

Speaking for myself, if you are mechanically inclined, and are willing to "tinker" to get it working just the way you like, they are not a bad machine. After a while you will find yourself wanting to upgrade to a more sophisticated machine, thus why so many are available. Personally I have one I have had for many years and while I use my CB4500 for just about everything, I find that I still use my Boss to stitch in fleece when I am re-fleecing an old saddle, because I can go stitch by stitch and get everyone in the previous hole, which gives me a more professional job. If I knew I would never re-fleece another saddle I would sell mine too. Bob

Seth, between Bob and Neels' posts you should have all you need to get it running the way it was supposed to. I have one and it performs flawlessly, and has ever since I bought it over a year ago. I sew everything wit it, wet, dry, 2 to 3 oz up to and including doubled and tripled 12-13 oz. The only thing I see that was not mentioned in the posts by the other guys is, and I am not sure about this, but; it looks like you have the thread looping through the arm thread guide bottom assembly, it should only go straight through once. Again, not sure, but; it looks like that in the second video. Don't give up, you have a really good machine, and once it is set up correctly and you are used to using it, you will find yourself using it for everything. Bob

Ken, there is a saddle maker here in MI looking to catch on with a shop. He ha a lot of experience and is a good saddle maker. There just isn't the clientele base up here for a true custom saddle maker to make a living on. I do well, but; I am also retired with a pension, to get by on. His name is Cody Young. His handle on here is Icutcows2. Bob