BondoBobCustomSaddles

The comments from otheTT The comments from the others about cover it. One other option is to line your head stall. As of late, I only make head stalls that are lined with latigo. I usually use 7/8 oz top and 3/4 oz latigo for the lining. I like the way it feels and wears, it just makes a real nice piece. Bob

Some time ago someone wanted to know how to tool a fork cover after installation so that it would not distort and stretch while fitting the cover. At the time I did not have any pics of how I do it. While I was working on this saddle today, I happened to think about it and snapped a couple of pics. I like doing it this way because as I said there is no distortion or stretching going on. Shown in the pics is the modified "ole George" that I use. It allows me to move the tree to any position I want, and let's me get to the area I want to work on easily. I find this to be the easiest way for me. Hope this helps those who asked. Bob

Great work, and congrats on the little bundle of joy! Now the fun begins! Be sure to record it , you'll never regret it . Bob

On hand stitching after back stitching , I pull both threads thorugh the back and cut them off close. On machine stitching, I do the same as Electrathon. Bob

Very nicely done! They just look good! Bob

Hi Rich, well, if you and you girl find some cool leather places to visit in Florence, please post and let us know. I have a sister that lives in Florence, and there is the distinct possibility that my wife and I will be going there in the future also. Bob

Small word of warning!!! If you make a temporary mallet/maul, be sure to have a plan on when you expect to replace it with a "real" one. Or you may find yourself still using the damn thing 20 years later! Believe me, I know!!! Happy Tooling! Bob

Lots of good critique here. Bottom line is that I have used both and while I feel Barge is slightly better, the difference is so minute, that it cannot compare when you consider the price. Especially since I can run down to the nearest hardware about a mile away, and get it anytime without being hit with the premium for shipping flammable items. Hands down, weldwood contact cement wins the race. Bob

No critique here, in my opinion, a real craftsman, appreciates quality materials and construction in whatever form it comes. The choice of materials here appear to be of the finest quality, and certainly the steel used has it's own attributes. Now it's a matter of how it meets you own individual needs. For me, all looks good except that back edge being sharp. Like someone else on this thread mentioned, Sometimes I like to reach up and push the knife through a curve with the thumb of the hand not holding the knife, I feel I get the best control on tight round and intricate cuts that way, (my personal preference). I am sure that during the course of making a saddle, I would loose the tip of my thumb! So for me the back edge needs to be rounded for comfortable use. In fact, when I ordered my latest knife from Kniperschield, I specifically requested that Terry round the back edges for that very reason. All that said, this appears to me to be a very nice tool that will be welcomed by those that use it. Bob

Ken, welcome to retirement! If you are like a lot I know, you will continue to work on your favorite things, just at your own pace with time to enjoy the creation of something special. I have always liked seeing your work, hope you still take time to create a special piece once in a while. Be sure to post them as you complete them for us to admire. Once again, welcome to retirement. Bob

Glad to hear that all you guys will be lucky enough to get to the show. Wish I were going also, alas, not to be. Please take lots of pics and post them. Have fun y'all. Bob

Pretty much what Bob saidPP Pretty much what Bob said covers it. One thing more that I do is while tooling and keeping the surface moist, (most of my tooled panels are saddle parts, and cover several days in time in development) I spray with a mixture of distilled water, a couple of table spoons of dish soap, and a couple caps full of listerene. I usually don't have any problems with mold. Bob

Obviously all the tidbits were written by those who are old enough to have had great experience with such items!! I know because I resemble that description and have experienced all the above numerous times! Thanks to all for a good morning laugh! Bob

Been off line for quite a while, old computer had to be put down! Finally got a new one. About Tandy, this seems to be another one of those trends that they are following . I don't use them much any more, and haven't for quite some time, mostly because of the drop in service, product, quality and all the other things that have been mentioned here. Guess it is just a sign of the times. Sad, but; we will just have to adapt, as we always have. Thank god for all the others that make and sell supplies for our needs. Bob

Last week I went to an estate sale, and low and behold I found an old slick fork saddle with very little milege on it. Really, almost new!! I got it for a customer of mine who is always bringing me worn out 40's and 50's saddles to clean up and repair so he can put them on display. This one has all the original components. Original sheep skin, strings, seat, stirrup leathers, really, everything and in almost unused condition. All I did was clean it up and oil it and it is ready to go. It is a custom made ,slick fork. High cantle, 6 string seat with stirrup leathers under the fenders, it has a oak leaf design tooled into it on the fork, horn,fenders and back of the cantle. It was made by J. Plantt of Bryan Texas. I would put it at about 1920 to 1930 date by the style of the tree and riging. Does anybody know anything about the maker? I would like to past any information I can onto my customer about it. Thanks ! Bob

For me, there is only one tool that takes the prize. It is the tool I reach for first almost always. It is my round knife. I have a bunch, and all but one have been relagated to "wall" duty. That is because I treated myself to one from Knipperschield as a Christmas present this year. Can't say how much I love this knife. Aside from an occasional strop, I haven't yet had to sharpen it, and I am working on the third saddle this year plus several pairs of chaps and chap purses. Save yourself a lot of trouble and buy quality cutting tools. Bob

All the posts have merit, and will help. One last tip, I tend to tilt my bevels ever so slightly towards the direction I am beveling. That way the trailing end of the bevel is slightly up and tends to smooth out the "line" left by the front edge of the bevel. A little practice will serve you well. Bob

This is a really interesting subject, especially from the perspective of someone who had a special interest in it. I have often thought that I would like to make my own shoes, just never got past saddles, (my first love). Please keep us posted on your progress. Bob

Pretty much all of the responses are spot on. On saddles and most other high end items it is 50% down nonrefundable. If they cancel order they have lost their deposit. Plain and simple. Once I had a guy at the track order a belt, he wanted it tooled and initialed. When I delivered it, he didn't want to pay for it! He said " I was just kidding, I really didn't want one." He was trying to get me to reduce the price, I took the belt, and in front of all that were there watching to see what I would do, I took out my knife and cut it into pieces. Looked at him directly and told him that " I was just kidding, I really didn't want to make him a belt anyway!" That set the tone for all orders at the track from then on. I got a lot of mileage from standing my ground, and it was all good. Bob

Like Bruce says lemon juice or oxalic acid will do the trick,. If you can't find the source of the metal, it may also be the beginning of mold, in either case, it will clean off with the use of the mentioned ingredients. Bob

Lan, all the things that everyone says are true. You seem to have hit a "real beer drinking day". All I can say is, why did you get into leather in the first place? If it was to make a living, then I will tell you that the most and consistent money I ever made at leather was working the race track for tack repair and making goods for the horsemen there, however; that was during the summer and I spent 7 days a week 10 to 12 hours a day banging out repairs and goods, ( 1200 horses tear up a lot of stuff!!!). That left me no time to do what I like to do, ride some, make really good artistic saddles, and just putz . If you can find a nitche that meets your needs and allows you to enjoy it, you are ahead of the game. Only you can figure out what that is, it is good when you find what it is that makes you happy. Good luck on your quest. Bob

Not sure how others might tackle it, but; I would just go ahead and strip it down and redo it and be done with it. The hole in the fork cover is fairly large, you might be able to pull the tacks that hold the fork cover down under the gullet and work the horn cover (I call them wings) around and under the cover from the top then fish them through with a pair of needle nose pliers pull them tight and tack. then tack the cover in the gullet and you're done. I have done it that way and it worked just fine. You said it was to be cleaned and oiled, so, I would opt for lifting the fork cover and doing it from scratch. When I clean and oil I usually drop the skirts anyway and lifting the fork cover isn't that much more work at that point. Bob

Very nicely done. I am sure that the winning contestants will be proud of them.Bob

Alex, not sure how others do it, but; I always cut the hole 3/4 's of the way around, round, and the bottom (or side adjacent to the hand hole) flat, that way when I pull the leather down in the hand hole, I can really pull it down, and as it stretches the hole becomes round. As for the other, both questions can be answered in the Al Stohlman books. Bob

We are lucky to have guys like Bruce here on this sight. Bob