kfiretwo

I received an old coggle shell roper, that belonged to my dad when he was in his early 20's, the couple that got it from him never took care of it, after riding they straddled it over a 55 gal steel drum and forgot about it. for nearly 20 yrs. when I picked it up it was curled under and dirty n dry couldnt hardly touch the leather from fear it would crack in half. when I got it home I gently took it apart peace by peace n put it in warm water with murfies oil soap n let it set over nite. took it out of the water, started to clean with saddle soap. took over a yr to recondition the saddle back to riding condition. when nearly dry i set it out side to let the sun warm it up. started rubbing bear grease into. today the saddle is in great shape an riden every day. remember it took time to get it to the condition its in, it will take time n alot of tlc to restore it

after u get every thing done, do a defragment on ur system, it will reset all ur files to free up space an it will make ur system a bit faster. Hit START than go PROGRAMS than to ACESSORIES it will take u to SYSTEM TOOLS, than to DISK DEFRAGMENT, from there just follow instruction on the following page, it will take a few minutes to run

belly leather has many uses, just play with it n see what works for u, its not a high stress leather because of the amount of stretch, and dont hold tooling well because it is a softer leather, its great for coasters, key fabs, untooled wallets, because of its softness, also great for adding as a backer to make ur project thicker,

regis I have never built one myself, but have seen them installed in cars, the ones I have seen were fasten above the belt on the the top hanger, so it was stationary, the biggest problem i could see was safety factor for the back seat rider if installed in a passenger car, the barrel was pointed up at an angle towards the back seat with the grip angled down for the driver to pull it free, my concern with it was if the car was hit on the driver side in an accident, could the gun fire n possible hit whom ever in the back seat

I use murphy oil soap with warm water, if it is rely dirt with a build up of mold, you have to re oil while drying to recondition leather, it will remove some of the natural oil from the leather

Hello tom Im no expert on pine cones but I have done a few that turned out pretty well, Im looking for the pics of the binder that I put them on, I under cut the pedals with the swivel knife, than used the smallest pearl shader that I had which is very small and indented every pedal, after stamping I took a small spoon stylist and lifted each pedal starting at the bottom working up to the top of the cone making a layering affect when dried it left a craving that was raised up out of the leather, when u ran ur finger over it you could feel every point on the cones, the lady it was for thought that they were glued on to the leather for they way they were raised hope this gives u some ideas to play with, there is no write or wrong way to do things, just some better ways lol

some of the show reins that r made today, they use heavy conchos for decor and weight, taper the end for the bit, than widen the rein to what ever size u need to place the concho on, as for why people want weighted reins, it helps to set the correct poll postion with out having to hang on the horses mouth with ur hands,

al stohlman book of cases has what ur looking for

Is it possible to braide or thread the cord back thru itself to make some sore of lineman loop instead of putting in a fastern to crimp it

the books r great depending on your expreince in saddle construction, if its ur first saddle restoration look for some one close by that is welling to teach u the correct way to do it, it might cost a little now, but if you get in over ur head it will cost more later to have someone repair it, the most minor repair could cost you more than the saddle is worth

rc use white vinegar n a med stiff tooth brush it will clean the copper n wont damage the leather rinse with clean water a few times n when nearly dry put on saddle soap or neats foot oil, n store the sheath in a vented place so it dont collect moisture again, moisture n no air movement will cause the copper to turnish

kathy here in ga we charge 125 for pasture n hay, if u want it boarded in a stall its runs as high as 550 a mnt n u supply the feed n labor to keep the stall clean n there cleaned daily. check on the property tax n charge enough to cover at least the tax, let the land pay for its self, another thing is make sure there is a non sue clause in the contract incase the animal is hurt for some unseen reason, like a down fence or a down tree that the animal can get tangled in. most states have a legistive admentment protecting the property owner from a rider or handler sueing from a horse ridin injury, but does not cover the injury to the animal we run a breeding farm of over 85 head of horses, and have run into a few sue happy people out looking for a quick buck, cross ur tees, and dot your I,s to cover ur butt

I have a few friends that tie their latio up because there so long, it keeps them from getting riped off from hanging so low. they r so long because they do lot of back country rides with just there saddle horses they tie their sleeping bags n wht ever else they need behind the saddle

troy I use the conway on alot of horse gear, they will take alot of abuse, as for strenght they are as strong as ur leather they will hold alot of weight and pressure

my ex had a suspension saddle I rode it for 11 hr trail ride, would ride a barb wire fence before riding in another one

ruth here is a site i get alot of snaps from, they also carrie different types of chains n loops keystone mfg. & supply co. 4696 springside court allentown pa 18104 tele# (610) 366-8818 fax# (610) 366-8825 email (info@kmsinc.net) web www.kmsinc.net hope this helps jim

dag if u build ur own u can set a 20 ton jack or bigger to do what u need n with the weaver i never seen one up close just in the book but i would guess u could use a higher ton jack to operate it

dag check out the one from weaver, and if u have a welder or have use of one, you can build one like it for a fraction of the cost of buying one already built, as for a shop press, there cheap, but you have to change it around to do a large clicker die such as a gun sling, they dont put pressure out to the outer end, the style that weaver carriers with the table riding on the outer post will transfer the pressure out words and u can make it as big or as small as u like

if all else fails go to NorthernTool an pick up a few pieces of rubber coated flex straps so u can mold the horses back than transfer that shape to a piece of poster board it will give a better describstion of the back alone with the pics u take, good luck n have fun

curb I restored an old coggleshall saddle that my father got in the early 40's than sold it in the 60's to a guy that just kept it in a wet barn, I found this saddle in 98 it hasnt seen the light of day since the mid 70 s at least it was in real bad shape for the sheep skin was ate away from setting on a 55 gal steel barrel n rusting, the leather was rolled under like a bed roll if u tried to move the leather it would crack. I contacted an saddle shop in amish country n the gentleman told me to soak it in murrys oil soap and hot water till the leather soften up. then clean the mold n dirt off with a strong mixture of murrys n hot water, it would kill the mold n some what restore the oil in the leather, he made sure he passed on the info to take the saddle apart to make sure it was clean n dry underneath, he said most peeps clean the top of the saddle but not under the skirt or event the seat when restoring a saddle, you want to hose off with clean water a couple of times let air dry, when it was nearly dry he told me to rub in bear grease from the back side n let the sun warm up the leather to draw the grease up thru, make sure the sun isnt so hot it cracks the leather, than you just keep adding a light coat of saddle soap as needed to keep clean

pat here is a link to a hardware co i order from keystone mfg. & supply co 4696 springside court allentown pa 18104 tele # (610) 366-8818 fax # (610) 366-8825 e-mail addy info@kmsinc.net web addy www.kmsinc.net hope this helps they make many styles of snaps rings dees clasps buckles. if u cant find what ur looking for they some times will make it for u jim

I seen a lap top case that was lined with poly fiber, that you quilt with, u can cut it to any size an farely cheap, it was contact cemented in place than a lining of thin leather cover it. it made a soft inside for protection of the lap top n the firm leather out side protected from most bumbs n scraps plus it was easily to clean, just wipe it out, as for al stohlman case books get all three, each one will help u with ur project they all have different tecnics and patterns just look n make one your own style

keystone mfg n supply co allentown pa 610 366 8818 info@kmsinc.net if they dont have them on hand they can make them for u

some girths have a roller buckles, just be careful if using them, they will over tighten

the books of al stohlman the are of making leather cases, are great you can pick them up farily cheap at tandy or go on line to tandy to view them, there is a series of 3