DanC

You did a Very Nice Job! Don't have to take a back seat to anyone.

For my strop - I used thinner leather on a wood board (with handle). The reason is simple (and hinted at above - without realizing it). It won't "give" under stropping pressure. The thinner the better (4oz +-) works just fine. The reason for thin over thick is that thick allows the leather to compress (soak it so it will shrink and tighten up) as you pull the knife over it, giving you a more rounded profile edge. Thin on a board prevents the round over effect to a great extent That's what works for me. P.S. I also use an Oak board that is charged to strop on. It doesn't give at all.

You are using the wrong stuff (leather) You need to use RAWHIDE. It needs to be soaked, then stretched around the horn and stitched in place then allowed to dry completely. Then after several days apply a preservative of some kind. Any book on saddle making - including YouTube - will show you how to wrap a saddle horn. From form fitting leather to the shape of the horn to stitching it up the back side. I don't think simple wrapping will do. It will never lay "flat" on the overlap. Yours - just isn't right - sorry bout that.

Mr. Neats' Foot Oil will probably change the most - try it on any piece of leather and only do half of it. And that is good leather.

Ask the manufacturer and attach video "gently" oil the presser foot pivots on the top (needle side) then remove the plates and do the same to the bottom mechanical linkages. You could get rubbing from the bobbin. Go to Harbor Freight and buy their stethoscope and use it. It really isolates the sound and you can zero in on it.

Good to hear your on your way to recovery Good luck to you

Depends on what you are doing. Just make the stool support shorter. Uses crates and pillow (put a hard top on it - even a board) to get a working height that is good for you while sitting on a stool. Then This workbench isn't for those who sit at it. For that, pick a good sitting height (above) - then raise the bench to match by putting a 4x4 (more or less) under the legs to get the height you want. When you find the best working condition, drill holes in the feet and screw them to the "risers". If you want to sit at this bench with the drawers - you have to raise the bench or lower the seat to get a good working condition. Lowering the seat only works if your top of knee to bottom of foot will actually fit under the bench drawers. If not - see above. Short of all this - I don't see any way that bench will work for you - unless you put an extension on the end opposite the vise or along the whole length opposite the drawers - and even that will have to be deep enough for your knees to go under and not hit the bench - easy to do actually. And actually your best option. Gives a wider top and still useable as a wood work bench.

Just Kick and punch the bag - high and low - then make the band at least 4" wider then your "work zone". If no bag, have someone estimate your work zone with a ruler. Think about what will happen when you stitch the band to the bag. Will the band take all the abuse or will it transmit to the stitching also - won't the stitching cord have to be quite heavy (nothing wrong with that - but good) to absorb the strain abuse. I may be overthinking, but that's how I see it. Don't forget to make a reminder that on your Birthday every year you re-stuff the bag. (see above) Or every Dec and May (6 mos.)

Yeah for Harbor Freight - any kind of hammer - mallet you want. And cheap. Then when they wear out (in about 10 years) you will have a good idea of what works and doesn't work and just what you will want to buy. 'Course esthetics come into play after about a year.

You will probably want 8oz or thicker leather = even up to 12oz That seems too thick - but look at bags used a lot and you will see ALL of them wrapped in duct tape as they are all worn out in one area. The main punching area. You could make a very unique bag that that is lighter weight (8oz) then using eyelets (a lot of eyelets) lash in a 12 oz center section that gets hit and kicked a lot. Eyelets are placed on a sewn on strip of leather around the bag - top and bottom When it wears through (in about 10 years), it can be replaced easily. Just don't place the holes for the replacement center close to the edge - tear through from being punched. Filler - buy from Amazon. Shredded memory foam is a good filler - packed tight. One reason for bags being damaged - the filler is no longer working well in the punched area and that area collapses. Nothing simple - is there? Just a bag, right!?

You can just buy or have the doctor prescribe (thus a prescription) a wrist support for one or both. Caution though - they do support the wrist/hand, but they all (see above) also prevent movement - something that is just as bad and you can figure out why. So, wear them with some common sense (movement is critical to prevent freezing in place).

Here is the "classic" solution - as you can see we have the same bench. Just takes a bit of work - nothing complex.

There are a few leather "rejuvenateors" out there. Including Mr. Neats' Foot Oil. All of them are good, so it is a "depends". But no matter what, the "look" is going to change. It is dried out and any and every thing put on it will change it's look from old and dried out to "fresh". Neatsfoot oil is the most color changing, but the most lubricating (not necessarily the best thing - personal decision).

Make another "cover" and stitch it up over it with big lacing. It will look fancy and cover it all up.

Very nicely done. Have 1 suggestion: Put a cutout at the top for the marlinspike. It will make it much easier to pull out, especially when you need it and your hands are wet. It is quite long, so it won't accidentally come out.

YinTx It's a trick - to get you to go to his site.

Here is a trick that I use: I use a FORSTNER BIT of the correct size and bore out a hole that is deep enough to reset the snap. Works every time. Only need to make sure leather doesn't ride up or shift - no real problem there. Leather does compress so only drill almost as deep as you want. Try a piece of scrap to see it work.

I always put some conditioning on mine, but most don't. It "usually" isn't necessary. It is the only way to "condition it" as when it is in place it won't ever be conditioned. If it is that dry, you need to condition it. Neatsfoot oil is good but does darken leather a lot. So do a test section and see how you like it.

You could try wetting it (not soaking it) and ironing it. Yup - iron. Place a piece of material under the iron first. Also, instead of attaching it flat, put it on, glued and all, then fold it into shape and let it dry that way. Use a test piece to see if you like how it turns out.

I have this stuff - and it is spongy not stiff. Haven't tried to skive it - could barely cut a straight line with it due to its springiness. You will need a very sharp and honed skiver or head knife, which I think would be better as it has a type/shape of blade that is easier to control for this type of stuff. Skiver is good for stiff leather as you use it "sideways". A head knife is straight on. Use a Metal straight edge and clamp it to the table (if possible) and run the blade against it to try to get a straight line. Practice on a junk edge to get a feel for the cutting. It may take a few cuts rather than one long straight full cut to get what you want. If you can't clamp at least draw a line to keep things straight. You might have to buy a hunk of 1/16" or 1/8" aluminum for the straight edge if you don't have anything that you can run a knife against.

The type of hinge you used is very sloppy. It can be made a lot better but a judicious use of a wide piece of metal (just as wide as the width of one of the hinge leaves) and gently tapping each one tighter against the pin. This will tighten up the play. If the leaves already touch, then drive the pin out and put in a bigger pin. A larger nail and a little drill press work should suffice to get you the right size pin. When making the pin, make it just a bit oversized so it can be driven in. It will then make a tight fit on its own. This would be true even for a piano hinge, but they are a lot less sloppy by design, but would look better and give more hinge area and less slop.

So - How many tools and hours does it take to make a toothpick holder? I'd show more pics of the work involved but pics are too large. Have to figure out how to minimize the size.