nylonRigging

Your in CA. . don't know your exact Addy. And if you were to drive over and pickup yourself . but if you were to go ( new machine ) . and good everyday workhorse, walkfoot, with Juki parts reasonable and plentiful . Alberoni over in Anaheim, has ( Juki DU-1181 ) for 1150-$ . And that would keep your in your budget for buying a new machine about shipping cost, if you cant drive to pickup . for example last time I bought from them . shipping a new machine on truck ( farther than you would need ) , up I-5 N. to Portland OR. was right about 140-$ . .

What wizcrafts say's . & That machine head one of the easier to assemble with the table . very common setup used world-wide , It just bolt down with 4-drilled holes, and you line the cut belt-slot for centering the belt to the motor pulley . There Nothing wrong with what you bought, it just you have to do a little wrenching to set it all up . You bypassed brick and mortar store and you not going to hell for it . But if this your 1st machine then that means you biting off a lot for your a learning curve . If this is your very 1st machine ? . it is pretty straight forward on the assembly nothing special . but If need help, and you don't have anyone who is mobile repair or has a shop, Try to find/search someone who works with industrial sew background by asking someone in you area who they use/call to come out when they get a kink in there machines . The head is probably 100% properly assembled and it will stitch . BUT.. You do want to start a machines life out with running the right wear patterns . When I buy any new machine, I always put a couple hours of run on it to feel it out good, Then I always have a professional come out and go over it . Throw him your materials you want that machine to handle and let him tweak and put his ego-eye on the timing and look it over . It the best investment and well worth flipping him an hour or two of labor he will charge you . . Here a quick pic. of similar old table I got sitting in back room without smaller cylinder head bolt on it . edit add: .. This old table has a 'speed reduce pulley set-up' , so just disregard that part your seeing coming off the pulley motor . Your table top, I hope has already been pre-drilled and has a belt-slot cut in it ? . but if not it still pretty easy and fast job . - -

The Nylons are just bad when you get down to the last 20% on the cones . but I don't know what else can be done ? , Big thread cord is not to bad, but small #69 nylon can get pretty Pig-tail in the bottom end of the rolls .I am sure the Thread manufactoring have done studies and even hold propritary knowledge on the science of making and twist and rolling miles of thread to Cones . Nylon is strong and high abrasion resisteance but bad part is it holds a ' thread Memory ' , it holds on to in the tail-end of the Rolls . It something that is still usable and you (live with) sew with it . But it is definitely Not as sweet on the bobbin and needle as when you throw on a brand new spool . Also.. all Threads are not created equal . 2 identicle thread may be the same as far as maunufactured same #size and material . But I find a big difference in the smoothness/difference of some, and you can feel the differences when pulling threw the tension disks . You can feel a tiny subtle grittyness with one, but another color and manufactures cone of same #size, will be smooth as butter . .

Thanks for taking the time to make that video . It gave me a lot to think about, will watch a couple more times to properly digest . Use threads #69 to 346, I use primarily 16oz. spools or larger bonded nylon . Always the 69 nylon can get pretty unruly when getting down to the last 1/4" on the cones . -

- I am in this area just west of this machine for sale . I would love to just drive over there and pick it up . It is a cool piece of sew mechanics . but.. I just cant justify losing more space that it would take up . and don't know what Job I would use/need it for . Never seen or sewn on a Puritan . ( I think ? ) . it is a chain stitch on the bottom stitching ? , not Lockstitch machine . .

- This Thread reminds me of something someone said to me about 30 years ago on my sewing . I was pretty green, My work and design was mechanically sound, but the 'aesthetics' of my stitching was lacking ..LOL . So, I was pretty proud of the 1st item I sewn, and i took it someone who was well schooled in making the same type item that I just designed and sewn up . She looked at me and said, ..." Well.. I have seen worse work, out of better people ". .

update for future reference, anyone with similar ( top-thread tension problems with 'only running Reverse' ) . It does look much better now running in reverse . removing and replacing the thread guide pin, with one with a small tension spring/disks . Then taking out the heavy coil spring out the main tension assembly and putting in a little softer coil tension spring . I don't know why ? , but Spreading out the tension to both a Pin-guide and main tension assembly , rather than giving the entire burden to the main tension spring/disk assembly . Seems to tighten all of the loose stitching problem up when running in Reverse . .

I using #20 on the x17 . with bonded nylon . I do change needles regularly also . I don't sew a lot fast long runs most days so I usually keep the RPM's down on my machines . but I did try slow and fast with the speed and also I tried some thinner lighter denier fabric with using Reverse . This got to be some kind of weird tension problem on the top needle thread . Got to be something easy fix, but just hard for me to see . I ordered a new tension assembly yesterday . And when get a few minutes tomorrow . I am going to pull the thread tension assembly off and pull apart and go threw it . Going to replace the Thread Guide Pip on top the machine with one that also has a small tension disks on it . Maybe spreading/smoothing out the tension , then use a lighter Coil Spring reduce some off the main Tension assembly . -- -- I not had this Head but about 6 months . And it a project almost done . This Tension sewing Reverse problem is one of the last bugs to work out . Normally I would not own this model of machine . But it was one of those 'oddities ' you run across once in while looking around, so I picked it up .The Head is older , probably 80's production . but is pretty nice clean shape . It set-up on new table and new motor, and made a new drip pan . Added a Press-foot lift lever on backside for table foot pedal . added feed Dogs, throat plate and presser foot . OK this is 'the thing' . It is a Mitsubishi head, ( DB170 ) with factory cast stamp underside of machine . But It NOT the normal model everyone familiar with . That is why it a project . Was is a custom run ordered and branded 'Nustyle' , and was ordered from Mitsubishi cast to a 16" long-arm, with 7" of table clearance . That why it caught my eye and bought it . ( Nustyle ) It was marketed as a 'Quilting machine ' , and had a frame setup screwed to the Head for 'free motion' . . BUT now .. Wham Bam.. it sitting on a flat table looking like a real sew machine . Hopefully It will turn this thing into a good daily stitch workhorse . Just got to smooth this thing out and make the switch to punching nylons . .

I been playing Inspector Clouseau off and on for past few days, and I am finally stumped . It Sunday and I got few minutes, so I will throw this out there . I have a machine that sews great in forward stitch . Timing looks GTG . tore into and checked timing twice . Is a simple design, drop-feed . Mitsubishi DB170 . using E-69 nylon , and 135x17 needle . ( sewing Forward ) . Sews and looks great threw 2 to 5 pieces 1000 Den. cordura . Stitching always Looks good top and bottom of material sewn . When I turn stitch length select knob to 'zero' . The needle in in a stationary position on the plunge . Using stitch length select knob, it sews great threw all stitch lengths . Turning the stitch select knob , All stitch move narrow to wide with sewing . So that all looks/checks out great . sews great all day ....But pushing the Reverse handle down .. ( sewing Reverse ) . OK.. Bottom of material, the ' bobbin thread side always looks great ' . But ( top of material ) , the top stitch is always loose and never tensions right . I used different bobbin tension . I put on a fresh set of Dogs . changed thread . It not catching/tearing thread . It is just sloppy loose and I cant get the top thread' to tension in Reverse . Anyone have an Idea what I am missing ? . I got to be something stupid simple that I am just not seeing ? ...thanks .

What is the 'Blue' ??? .. did someone put silicon adhesive to that case spring ? Most times I will just run without on 'pop-out' Vert. bobbins . but I pretty religious about using them under the bobbins for flat Horizontal . They a PIA once in while on pop-in bobbin cases . also popping out once while if you drop your bobbin case on hard floor . hate crawling around and trying to locate when in hell it ended-up landing ...LOL .

Good eye, on some blurry Pic's . . Ya, if Needle feed, It will be good Head to get . Needs to bolt it down and roll some stitches with hand wheel to see it sews good . Find out why? It Not table mounted and laying around solo . Then offer Low-Ball price and take it home ...LOL .

Is it just a Drop Feed ? ( bottom feed-dog only ) ? . with just stitch length/reverse lever on the R-side . It does look like there was a model/plate missing there under the stitch length knob . looks like some discolor where it was till removed, or knocked off . It should have had another small plate riveted on saying where made ? . 'made japan' or 'made china' . but I think that Seiko is Jap. machine. But , If can't find any model plate or anything ??? it might have a factory 'cast stamp' or something more under bottom side of the head if you look . If just Drop feed . I would not choose it to sew Leather with as my 1st choice . ( bottom feed ) , it actually sewed really good for heavy Webbing/fabric . It sewed #277 thread great, and up to #346 only satisfactory . About 1/2" high material is the limit for Needle . It only takes 15 minutes to take down the bobbin assembly and look at the race, Hook, Bobbin ...etc . and put back together. If were me looking to buy .. I would Sew on it and bring a some webbing and throw under the foot and see how the Hook and assembly treating the stitching . -- Looks just like a old ( China made ) 'Mercury' branded Head I had years ago that was just a bottom feed . And they made that Machine Head copied/branded under a mountain Pile of different cover names . The "made in China" heads were just disposables . 'china made' , Run them till sloppy and get rid of . .

I almost positive you not going to find a model specific flat-bed attachment made for your Consew model . You will have to adapt another table made for different model of similar size . or build new from scratch . I would look first for some compatible to length/size with your Consew cylinder bed . My 1st thought .. was maybe checking to see if ( UWE flat-bed ) for the Pfaff-335 will be close to working size . ? You might get Lucky . it easy to trim a wood top to fit . Also really easy to Drill and thread Tap a new hole here or there on a Machines head to make bolt mounting work . . edit Add: Adaptation of another model table will be hit or miss.. But As far as the UWE table, If you tried . He integrates throat-plate to pass threw the wood top . The holes on his tables will be drilled and mount in holes to that model .. You might get lucky ??? and maybe drill a couple new hole to mount to your throat plate , or with out having to trim for the Consew dogs to fit-up threw . https://uwe.store/products/ut335-flatbed-table-attachment-for-pfaff-335 .

- NICE .. Man that 111 is Really SWeeeeet looking and clean . .

That good . All you need is a few hours behind it to get a feel for machine and get comfortable . Gear reduction is great especially if you marry it to a servo . I have it both ways servo and clutch motor on machines . I have a big Clutch electric and It slowed down with good torque from a dead stop , but only way to change speeds is changing out a different combo of pulley sizes . Servo is most definitely give you a huge range of RPM choice to select and work with when sitting behind your machine . .

If Material is not to thick, for the Needle's length and plunge to make a proper stitch . Along with the material sewn is soft enough for your needle to pass threw . Then No Not going to damage your machine . And machine is not over stressed with you adding more Torque LB/ft energy behind the needle plunge . your ( Singer 111 ) , Having To much torque . . look at it from the side of thought that every once in a while everyone is going to have a BAD Needle strike from deflection . The Needle meeting the ' immovable object ' your Dogs or Throat Plate . You cant get much more sudden abuse than that with the machines stitch cycle . The damage to the Machine 99% of the time is only shattered/busted Needle . Also, with just shoving the Needles shaft rod Up, just knocked out of timing little bit . .

just my opinion . maybe give some info to making your choices . I think that the servo that draw more Amp runs stronger and less heat under a load . I run 4 of the standard 550 watt servo motors and they all draw 4-Amp . I have one of the brushless 750 watt servo and it draws 6-Amp . It is like night and day when you hop off the 550 to the 750 watt, 6-amp motor . .

- Good luck on making a better machine speed control . ( There is not much in between ) . as far as control . You either use your physical 'Feel' with push/pull with hands-feet for spring-lever on clutch or servo motor . Or, it just swings to the total opposite end using little physical Feel of input by your using just a little 'Tap' of the foot or finger for activating a On/Off switch for pneumatic solenoid switch or inboard attached servo motor and electronic board, or your running CNC program, multi-directional free motion stitching . I still pretty far behind 21st century Tech. and my most complicated control is a Bartack with 'ancient technology' Pneumatic/solenoid press-foot lift and stitch cycle . All my other machines are Muscle pushing a spring-lever, with two of them still being old clutch motors . Small custom design like here on this board with leather will always hang on the end with the most invested in muscle memory with an eye on every stitch and pushing a spring-lever with a foot or hand for machine control and speed . You need to build a cheep-$ robot instead of a better switch . My Ass gets sore sitting on a stool behind machines for hours, Personally I want a A.I. Robot that podcasts my favorite listening, that will do all my sewing for me ....LOL .

Flat-Bed attachment, off Artisan 3200 . It's spring cleaning and moving things out. Flat-bed was mounted on machine a couple of months . It in excellent shape, was taken off and just sitting on a shelf in the shop after that . ( 45-$ ) plus shipping . . I can take paypal also . Just give me a PM here for info . -

hey.. PM sent . it is found . streamline off line and get back to me on my cell# asap . Text or call . .

yes you are right, (was not paying close attention) that link smaller on the width that what you need. But there are a crapload of 112's out there . It is going to be all about finding salvage for that age of hinges . And there are guys with a big collection of heads and parts but if there on a good working head, people not going to part with them . I only know one guy up here with a horde of old machines and heads, I will pop a text to him and see if will dig and look to see if he has a set of old 112 hinges . .

Using my GoogleFoo https://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-Industrial-Sewing-Machine-Table-Hinge-Pin-Hinges-/282957384799 -

Hey .. I going to change that one Hinge center to ( 3 1/4" ) . I just went and took more time to squared everything up . and that rear hinge really is closer to the ( 3 1/4") like your your 138 . in the Pic. camera angle looks little off, but it just the lens angle . I keep the old 112 set-up for just single-needle 'inside seam' binding tape . 112 is a double-needle machine. But it also works great as single-needle for jobs . It is real old and I have had it forever. I rebuilt the whole both bobbin assembly a few years back and it just keeps on rolling along strong . -

Man that pretty close for you making it a fit . The 112 table is cutout right @ 20 1/2" x 7" And 'these' original Singer factory hinges of the 112 head are Oval-half moon shape and screwed down into the hinge cutouts . And that is what I looking at, and measuring for a center mark . The aftermarket table you looking at has the normal cutout for a longer ( standard rectangle-shape ) drop-in hinge . So you probably have very little trouble getting a good workable fit . .

( it say's ) . If it cut for the Signer112 with Hinge placement pre routed . the Placement of Hinges is what I would use for the ( reference/witness mark ) for fit, and it all falling into place . If you taking your Singer 138, and want hinges to fall into place on the cutout of that table . I just went back and measured the Singer 112 sitting in the back . If you take both Hinge center's for a reference point . standing in front of the 112 . with the tape measure placed on the back-side of machine . with the 0" inch end mark, placed on R-side (belt end) of machine . The Singer 112, ' center ' of Hinges fall at the ( 3" ) and ( 12" ) mark of measurement . . edit add: it no biggie after that if you need to do just a little trim or sanding fitting for the felt pads and corner bumpers, for getting the Head falling into a nice setting and height sit . Also same for your oil drip pan you going to need . It 'Easy ' straight forward to make a real nice one . Just get some Galvanized sheet metal and bend with some straight edges and fit in the table cutout . Then just the bare Pan and hit it with some primer and paint if you want before nailing it inside the cutout . .