nylonRigging

yes you are right, (was not paying close attention) that link smaller on the width that what you need. But there are a crapload of 112's out there . It is going to be all about finding salvage for that age of hinges . And there are guys with a big collection of heads and parts but if there on a good working head, people not going to part with them . I only know one guy up here with a horde of old machines and heads, I will pop a text to him and see if will dig and look to see if he has a set of old 112 hinges . .

Using my GoogleFoo https://www.ebay.com/itm/USED-Industrial-Sewing-Machine-Table-Hinge-Pin-Hinges-/282957384799 -

Hey .. I going to change that one Hinge center to ( 3 1/4" ) . I just went and took more time to squared everything up . and that rear hinge really is closer to the ( 3 1/4") like your your 138 . in the Pic. camera angle looks little off, but it just the lens angle . I keep the old 112 set-up for just single-needle 'inside seam' binding tape . 112 is a double-needle machine. But it also works great as single-needle for jobs . It is real old and I have had it forever. I rebuilt the whole both bobbin assembly a few years back and it just keeps on rolling along strong . -

Man that pretty close for you making it a fit . The 112 table is cutout right @ 20 1/2" x 7" And 'these' original Singer factory hinges of the 112 head are Oval-half moon shape and screwed down into the hinge cutouts . And that is what I looking at, and measuring for a center mark . The aftermarket table you looking at has the normal cutout for a longer ( standard rectangle-shape ) drop-in hinge . So you probably have very little trouble getting a good workable fit . .

( it say's ) . If it cut for the Signer112 with Hinge placement pre routed . the Placement of Hinges is what I would use for the ( reference/witness mark ) for fit, and it all falling into place . If you taking your Singer 138, and want hinges to fall into place on the cutout of that table . I just went back and measured the Singer 112 sitting in the back . If you take both Hinge center's for a reference point . standing in front of the 112 . with the tape measure placed on the back-side of machine . with the 0" inch end mark, placed on R-side (belt end) of machine . The Singer 112, ' center ' of Hinges fall at the ( 3" ) and ( 12" ) mark of measurement . . edit add: it no biggie after that if you need to do just a little trim or sanding fitting for the felt pads and corner bumpers, for getting the Head falling into a nice setting and height sit . Also same for your oil drip pan you going to need . It 'Easy ' straight forward to make a real nice one . Just get some Galvanized sheet metal and bend with some straight edges and fit in the table cutout . Then just the bare Pan and hit it with some primer and paint if you want before nailing it inside the cutout . .

Sounds about same thing I do also . Transitioning Up/Down/ gaps ...etc. This is what I do . I use different nylon webbing's as spacers/jigs . For stepping Up and Down and Across, to keep the dogs in contact for good continued thread tension and consistent stitch lengths . I always just have a handful of these assorted webbing pieces laying by machines . I will use different Widths and lengths webbing's of 3/4", 1" , 1 1/2" , 2" ...etc . Then, I will also stack (sew together) in different height choices . 1, 2 ,3 stacked together ...etc. .

thanks .. for sharing that . i have never seen that small a ( bobbin thread cylinder post ) before in my life . would love to play with one of those for a spell. .

Very nice and you are artistic to say the least . Your good taste, also takes a solid head for 3-D visualization and working proper order of completion of pattern for all your beautiful work . ....thanks for sharing .

ya that Robinson's has some nice sweet machines. Here a Vid. of a cool Post Bed .https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=30&v=tYsWBAO5bhk -

I did that last evening loosen collar and then push and re-tight . But also I finally noticed that the slide keeper tab #20 was not actually going far enough sliding Right . I had to get out the one of smaller fine round File's and give several strokes to both screw holes on the L-side . and that allowed the holding tab to slide more Left, and take out more of the horizontal slop and that helped a bunch . ....thanks .

Oh Crap It just dawned on me ....LOL . I might be able to take your ( Urethane Belt bonding ) idea and use for making a New rubber tire ( big fat O-ring ) on the inboard bobbin thread winder, On my old Bernina 217N . You cant get those bobbin big o-rings anymore, and I been looking and X-referencing other O-Rings for a long time and it been a NoGo for finding a match . All I need to do is find the right round Diam. and start giving it a try . .....thanks MUCH .

a couple days back I did loosen those two keeper hex heads on that #26 holding collar, and I took a little play out . ' But ' I did not push direct pressure from the #18 where that C-clip holds . I will do that latter tonight and see if I can get a little more slop removed . ...thanks

So the loose play is just nature of the beast ? . I knew the steel slide-clip is adjustable and slides back and pulls it to the right and hold inward . But I was just concerned that it was excessive amount of movement ? .....thanks

What can anyone say on the amount of Lash/slop in the 441 Feed Dog assembly ? Is there a proper way to remove with adjustment ? ....thanks https://i.imgur.com/lebZyfG.mp4 -

that is Weird .. not suppose to do that, your lengths stitch should not change unless you manually change them . Probably something real simple that is hard to see right off the bat. may not be the problem ? . But 'Only' thing that pops into my head is maybe raise press foot and hold it just above feed dog . Then carefully look and see if they are 'both moving exactly together' . when you manually slowly roll the hand wheel threw a few revolutions . I don't have 206 RB, but I do got a 146RB, and one time I had linkage arm work loose that connects strait to he outside press feet . It went out of unison/timing with dogs just a little . Thread tension looked great top and bottom with sewing, but it was doing some real funky feeding with stitches that day and took me a couple hours of scratching my head before I figured it out . .

I have had a lot of binders and finding one's that are keeper is a struggle sometimes . & Leather is not my forte, . also, ( I am a needle feed guy ) and that my favorite way to bind seam . I really love old double-needle flat-beds like old 112 /212and the newer juki LH3528 line . but I excel in many years Binding heavy denier cordura's and fabric, with Type-lll and Bias tapes, and I always still learning little fine details . I only have two machines setup right now at stations for both outside and inside seam bind . I have customs binders and some I soldered myself . I solder better than a blind chimpanzee, but I am FAR from soldering like a skilled jeweler . Tenn. attach. Co. makes good systems and there solder work is great 'rugged' for the long run . But You pay-$ for them also . There binding systems tend to run on a 'raised feed dog' because there Binders (sit a tiny taller) are big and soldered beefy on the head/throat for years and miles of tape . but they have the Dogs prefabbed. and ready if you want. Binding seams, both sewing with, and the set-up and adjusting for the tracking and stitch QC are an art in it's own right . Also.. Anytime you buy a custom binder, that does not mean it is just screw it down and start sewing . there are a lot of little thing that you will be learning about setting it up and also you going to get good at trimming and shaping your presser foot for different jobs with different binders. Binding is a whole system . Binder, Presser feet, Dogs/feeding and then there is the binding materials your choosing to run threw your Binder and machine , and they all have to flow together for your QC . . edit to add: LOL.... I just read that you are also dealing with getting binder and binding using heavy foam padding ...LOL . You are really putting yourself thew the learning curve, and binding around different foams are a whole pile of knowledge that you never quit learning how to do. .

Years of seam binding ( flat beds ) , but it same with both Flat or Cylinder, and with trying to get the binders Throat right in there tight in the sweet spot . With ' all ' binding attachments I have ever used . I have always had to cut/notch the presser foot for getting the proper distance to the binders throat . cutting and shaping, Getting into seam binders you will get good at this pretty quick. Also don't screw around with strait binders . Just get to it, with nice R-angle 90 Deg. attachment . edit to add: Is that 'Yamata' A ( 135x17 Needle ? ) . Also let me know how it goes with that 335 copy . I got a complete table setup from an old cylinder bed head that I sold and it begging for something to bolt down on it . That Yamata will be a GTG . .

Is there such a thing as that ' little Post ' being a blame for ..." my machine not sewing correct" ? Just now, I just went out and checked after seeing this Thread Post . I walked out to shop and looked at an old 211 singer that I have sewed with for 20+ years . The old 211, The R-side thread tension has that 'post' like in your pic. of that machine . and The L-side has no 'post' on tension mechanism . So 2 tension spring-discs, with 1 being routed over the post, and 1 not . The R-side thread has always been routed that way ( over the little post ) for all these years of sewing and it sews like a dream ? .

Are the Ti-nitride coated needles slicker than standard needles ? always used silicon on the heavy thread cord and works great . But I ( have not ) tried the Ti coated needles yet and wondering if anyone uses ? .

I need to rephrase that ( wimpy ) . It smaller shorter, than the #794, But It is still pretty ridged with a thick shank . It just wont punch the depth like the 794 will . I just remembered I had old one laying in the magnetic straight-pin box . So here is a pic. side by side . 328 & 794 , Scarf side-up .

I sewed with one several years before selling, Pretty positive from memory Yes correct on the needle size #328 and was bit wimpy smaller than 794 . the cylinder Bobbin was smaller also . using #346 was pushing to much but it did #277 well . ( mine was bottom feed model ), 1/2" thick was about the limit, but for just a bottom-feed it actually sewed very well and smooth . . also it a pretty solid machine and there is/was a crapload of import clone machines floating around made off the parent machine design .

Much More than just aesthetics and what is pleasurable to the eye . And it's great to have electronic speed selection with Servo drive motor, but there is more to it, than just the end result of RPM desired . I can electronically select my RPM command on motors to turn any speed I want . So why add additional pulley's and belts in-between the 1 tiny pulley drive, and the 1 Large machine handwheel pulley ? The addition of the pulley reduction in-between the drive motors and machine drive shafts . whether you put it under table or above table for 'aesthetics' appearance . ( I interpret it ) Reason is, It delivered more Lb/ft energy to the Needle for a end result, Using less energy required from drive motor to make that Needle crawl threw the Thick material resistance you give it . Question ? . ( For example ) on one of my tables with pulley reduction under-table . You have a 13" Diam. handwheel with/10" diam. pulley, and with belt, going down to a 1.5"Diam. pulley off the Servo drive with electronic speed select . So why do I need the additional pulley/belt reduction inbetween the drive motor and the machine drive shaft to punch 346 threw 12 pieces of webbing ? .

There must be a upside benefit reason, as multiple pulley and belt reduction placed between motor and machine have been around long before I was born and sewing . .

it is a rough machine . But I do see your points . there is something to be said for the truth of.. " less is More " . Less complicated purity . .