Leatherimages

Is this one of those works Europeans do without a swivel knife?

To eliminate the worry of botching the whole job, do a test on a piece of the same leather with the Oli Dye on it. Be sure it's allowed to dry well before you apply the Lexol, of course. If you've rubbed the dyed surface well to remove any "dye stuffs" I doubt if you'll have a problem.

Thank you. The mold itself was two layers of butt leather from bends. They're about 12-13 ounce, and I glued them together and rounded the edges as I wished. You could use skirting too, of course. The leather for the case was molded from a 2 oz. split off of a side that I ordered from W&C, using the technique in the Stohlman cases books. If you don't have these in your library you're cheating yourself, and doing it the hard way.

There are specific stretchers for stretching the instep of boots. Because they're comparitively expensive, many s/r shops will turn a shoe stretcher sideways and mis-shape them in an effort to stretch the instep of boots. The local shoe here in Prescott had a terrible experience stretching boots improperly for a customer. Be certain that anywhere you leave them has the proper equipment. Some leathers will stain even with the correct solution. Be sure you feel comfortable about wherever you leave them. If you'd like to ship them to me, I'd be happy to use my 40 yrs experience helping you. My phone number is 928 442-1213. With Regards, Paul

Thanks. I use the split most of the time to lay down a base layer on new lasts before I build them up. It ocurred to me I could use it for a soft molded form. It was easy to lay over the leather mold. BTW, Wickett and Craig will send it along at no extra charge when I ask them to split a piece to my selected weight. At 2 ounces or more, it's a real handy thing to have around the shop.

I was asked to make this cell phone case and I just finished it in between boots. Deer tanned cowhide applied over a split leather molded form. Lined with Kangaroo and buck stitched with roo as well.

Ray, A lot of us use a formula attributed to Ben Cox. I use an approximate mix of: 1 cup bottled water 1/2 cup Lexol 1 tbs. baby shampoo 1 tbs. Listerene. I once kept a pair of boots, that were made with lots of veg tan leather trim pieces, cased and on the bench for about a week and a half, in a large zip lock bag, while I worked them over. I have not used it on horsehide. I'd strongly reccomend a test first to see what it might do to the nap. I presume you're doing the horsehide holsters rough out? most of them are. This casing solution mix works so well, I don't know if warm is as necessary as it would be with just water. The baby shampoo works to breakdown the water molecules for penetration, just as the warm water open the fibers of the leather for penetration. See what I mean? Do some tests and get comfortable with it. Good luck,

Yep, it's different. Use very warm, not hot, water to case. It does seem to dry much faster, but you should be able to work it cased. It's been more than 10 yrs. since I was working at a large holster making operation where we used large buckets of heated water. I've been using a casing solution with water, Lexol, baby shampoo and Listerene, for the last several years. If it was me, I'd use that. Do tests for yourself, and form your own opinion.

OK. Stay in touch, I'll be happy to help where I can. Lasts are definitely a study of their own, with a learning curve. Have you tried putting the lasts you have, into any of the pairs of boots you're planning to work on?

Goatman, There is soo much more than meets the eye, but it does sound like you have the thinking process you'll need. Helping Nick in China was a challenge, but successful. I'll help you when and where I can, if you want. Beginning with breakdown, take pictures and notes. Getting the measurements right and making patterns for a particular last can be a big stumbling block. We'll have to see where that goes.