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Leatherimages

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Everything posted by Leatherimages

  1. Isn't saddle making one of those where a maker makes his own patterns for the tree he's working on, like shoes with lasts?
  2. I would use White Acrylic Paint in diluted consistancies. Wet/dry sandpaper between coats will give you a smooth durable finish.
  3. Maveric Leather Company are a great group of folks. I highly reccomend them. Paul
  4. It's been so long since I posted any pictures of any of my work. Between moving into my new space here in downtown Prescott, and putting out fires from repairs and other custom things neglected in the process, it's been a wild ride. Heck, it ain't over yet! ANyway, here are a couple of pair of boots I did up for the upcoming 21st Annual Trappings of the American West Show, opening this next Saturday the 12th, and running through Feb.19, 2012 here at Prescott's Phippen Museum. One pair is #3 in my series of Arizona Flag motif designs: A Black French Calf Full Cut with a graft of tooling leather embellished with the AZ Flag waving on it's pole, and trimmed out in Red Kangaroo. Another pair is Tan Ostrich on Bone Silky Water Buffalo from Garlin Neuman, in a Triad design. The pulls, trim and scroll stitch pattern are done in Wedgewood blue. I also entered the attached 18" Stove Pipe Plainsman in Brown Beaumont from Horween, with it's Cathedral stitch pattern. This one is from last year, a job which was never picked up by the customer. raphy All photos by Chris Marchetti Photography http://www.marchettiphoto.com/ Paul
  5. <They are from the chemical family of 'acid' dyes> That's what I was after, Thank you. I was 25 years at the shoe repair bench and spent alot of time scrubbing and deglazing leather before dyeing, with both Dyo and LCI products. I had only a light contact with Prime. I've seen alligator dye jobs where the dye didn't penetrate and was rubbing off, and I've seen some jobs done in a s/r shop that seemed to hold up just fine. Are the acid dye family you mention available from any of these sources?
  6. Shoulda figured. It's amazing how soft those become when they're wet. You state that they "can be dyed into various shades and will be given a soft matte finish". Is that a process that you perform or something the buyer would do? Which dye works best for 'gator crust? I have recoloured Alligator boots and shoes in the past, have have never been confident that what I did was the best way to do it. Thanks,
  7. I'm not familiar with "back strap" cuts. Where is it cut from, when in the process, and what is the tile pattern? Thanks,
  8. Andrew this just goes with it. It's so the leather will feed. I've never seen it otherwise. Simply use an edger, or sander once you have your layers glued. BTW, good job on the sandals. paul
  9. Big job done. Panels 23" X 25" drawer panel of various sizes. W&C leather, Golden Oak Stain w/Highlighter
  10. I get mine at GH Leather in Houston. (713) 670-9800
  11. Yeah, I do 1 1/2" belts also. So I'm with you on the 1" size buckle.
  12. Hello Campchair,

    My shop is in Prescott AZ. The address is 156 So. Montezuma

    Studio E

    Prescott, AZ. 86303

    928 442-1213

    I'd like 10 or so of your double prong buckles, when you get them going.

    Thank you,

    Paul

  13. I actually was talking to a fellow just last week about making a replacement for his Mechanics Belt. So, I'll take 10 also, if you're doing up a batch. But I'd be ok with just a couple for this job. I appreciate that you're willing. Thanks,
  14. Can anyone tell me if we have a thread here on leather desktops. I got a call yesterday.

    1. KAYAK45

      KAYAK45

      I don't know about a thread but I did do one, twice! Firsttime OPERATOR ERROR. Redo was nice.

  15. On the shark, which I think may be Tiger Shark by the looks of it, you should be able to get a kick a** edge. But don't skimp on sanding. The Ostrich would need to be skived to a feather. Glued to a veg liner, it would not be a problem to get a nice edge also, but again, you're gonna need to sand it. I can't imagine thinking you wouldn't need to sand. I use my naumkeg orbital sander on my finisher, starting with 100 grit, then on to a worn out 120 grit. The I'll wet the edge with water, and begin with wet/dry paper that is 1200 grit, A huge jump, but it's really all about "elbow grease". Dye, sand. Fiebings Leather Finish, burnish with canvas. Two coats of edge coat, and it's good to go. I'm interested to use the Dura Coat, but haven't had the chance to get some yet. I did a batch of book marks for a neighbor using acrylic and was happy with the appearance, but wouldn't use it on a belt. Keep your Trapezius mucsels relaxed.
  16. [a product that the sender wanted me to test run] And can you tell us who the sender of the aforemention product was? Have you tried the durable edge coat that Fiebings has introduced yet?
  17. I'm working on two large panels, which I have 'putty embossed'. I am rubber cementing them to tracing film, which is mounted on illustration board. As I was removing the first one from the board yesterday, it occurred to me that the coat of rubber cement might interfer with the adhesion of the leather to the door panel when I contact cement it. I've never put a coat of contact cement over rubber cement and am doubtful about the contact cement making the necessary bond with the leather for adhesion. So I'm wondering if any of you have had any experience with this. I've worked with this cabinet maker before and I am confident in the wood, I'm just not sure about the rubber cement. Thank you for your input.
  18. The ankle boots in the photos are Balmorals, and the shoes are Oxfords. Without creating a whole new pattern, I don't see how these styles could be reproduced with a pleated-at-the-base tongue (which it seems it would have to be to produce a bellows tongue), and not have a big wad of leather atop the instep. Both these designs have the quarters coming close together at the vamp, You'd have to change this in some way to allow for the base of the tongue. I don't know how it could be done at all, much less with any degree of finesse.
  19. Wow Nick, That sounds like a puzzel. I got nothin'. Sorry, Paul
  20. By the pictures I wouldn't get this close to a machine. It would eat it up. IMO it could only be done by hand and even then it might be too much trama for the leather as Luke says. It would take a very delicate and sure hand, and even then... I'll pass, thank you. A disappointed customer is better than a mad one.
  21. Looking for the Pine Cone tutorial. Anybody? Thx.

    1. LNLeather

      LNLeather

      top of the page - do a search for - pine cone - and you will get a lot of links to posts about that, including a link to a Free Tutorials from Paul Burnett, and it might be included in those... Hope this helps.

    2. Johanna

      Johanna

      Do you have the old doodle page?

    3. LNLeather

      LNLeather

      Among other things,there is a set of FREE tutorials that you can sign up for and one of them is 'Tooling A Couple of Pine Cones' There is some really Great tooling info and expert advice available by Paul Burnett. http://paintingcow.com/content/

  22. I thouhgt I saw one time, a tutorial on Paul's pinecone technique. Can anyone tell me where I might find it? Thank you in advance, And if you're still checking in here Paul, We wish you strength and power.
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