Leatherimages

Good suggestions all around. I'd just add to work and many light coats, allowing lots of time to dry between each. An appliquation of conditioner will help to get a good job to last a whole season for her. Have fun.

Looking good Kenny! I like the composition. And the buckles are cool. Keep up the good work. From Prescott,

A couple of other approaches might be: Do it inverted and never mind the backgrounding, or Use a large piece of sand paper with a course grit, and press it ontot he leather. Do tests to see what you like. I'd go with the inverted beveling.

If the first bag shown is your work, you're off to a good start. It's hard to answer your question about dye or paint for the other bag without seeing it closer or handling it. I was probably done in the tanning process and purchased that color. Contact some of our leather suppliers and ask for samples, or go to a show and pick the leather you'd like to see on your bag. You might try Wickett and Craig's skirting leather, it has a slight tan color to it. As for the sewing, the second bag shown appears to have bound edges. This technique is professionally done on a machine that is set up for binding. It can be done by hand, but it's an advanced technique and quite a challenge to make it look good. If this is your hand stitching on the first bag, try shortening the stitch length to about 6 spi (stitches per inch), placed a stitch length away from the edge, and then just do an extra good job on the edges, per Bob Parks tutorial on this site. Good luck and keep at it.

Hey, do any of you retailers inventory the Paul's Buckle #400 SB 1 1/2" with #410 SB Belt Loop? It's on page 16 of their catalog, bottom left corner. I need to get a set or two in the next couple of days. I appreciate your help. Thank you, Paul

<is it dyed or painted, how do I tell> I haven't been reading the posts recently that seem to discuss this same question, so I don't know what other people are saying. But with my 40+ years I can say there is no such thing as White dye. It could only be a top coat of color so opaque that none of the natural (probably) russet color of the leather will show through. Paul

Thank you very much Ladies. It is kinda striking, isn't it? I guess turquoise and black isn't too dated. That was my worry, and that it would get dissed because of it. But it's classic I guess. Your comments are appreciated. And DoubleC, show your work (when you get a hat that is).

My customer asked me to make a hatband, whatever I wanted. Well that may work for some, but I needed some kind of direction. She said she liked my leather feathers, and scrolls, so I asked for a color, and she said turquoise. This is what she got. She loved it!

Upholstery leather is usually very stretchy. Shouldn't be a problem. Just pull the inside corner in first, and then distribute the wrinkles underneath. If the leather is too firm, you could spray it with alcohol/water solution and gently stretch it into place. Relief cuts may help, and may not even matter if it's hidden by the leg. If you're unsure, cut a section and practice. You can do it!

Well you don't make it easy to help. If what you're going to cover is like the attachment shown on the back of the chair, I'd say cover it in blue painters tape, draw your cut lines, taking note of (we call them lasting) margins, peel it off, lay it on manilla folder material, and cut it out. Then just tune it up for accuracy. Or, at least that would work if that's what you wanted to do. Good luck,

This is because the stitch is too close the edge, IMO. I didn't see if you mentioned how thick you're working with, but you probably need to be at least 3/16" from the edge. Actually, I will often make my piece wider, stitch further from the edge and trim and sand as close as I desire. Table machines are notorius for this. With a cylinder arm machine, you can lay your work over the edge of the arm, and send your awl/needle angled slightly inward of the edge. This is also why Al Stohlman recommended leaving the lining larger than the fron piece, and trimming it afterward, even on hand stitching. Keep working it, you'll get the hang of it.

I don't really know, but Lexol is such a good, light conditioner that I'd start with that. You don't say whether it's hair on, probably not if you say you think it's Zebra, stripes and all. But the thing is about unknown leathers from unknown sources, is that one also doesn't know how it was tanned. Try lexol and not too much, is my word. Another idea I just had was to call a drum shop. Maybe there's something common about drum leather. Good luck..

Seam is not lined, I found no way to do it well. So I just lined the whole outer piece then assembled mocs. Oh, then do the holes for your laces go all the way thru to your socks?

These look like fine examples of this kind of construction. How did you like working with the sole paste stuff? Keep up the good work.

What a fantastic desgn and wonderful craftsmanship! The concho drawstring is a perfect feature for all types of ankle measures. Would you be willing to share how you did the lining seam in the forefoot, if any?

I'm about as busy as I was afraid I would be 6months ago. I moved into my new "cool old space" last June, with a helper/repairer/ pardner. Let's just say things don't always work out, so now I'm on my own. Managing pretty well, covering overhead, buying some groceries, I'm happy with the growth of the business. But now it's that time before fire season starts up in this area. The time when I get lots of 'fire boots' to tune up and resole, as well as assist with placeing orders with White's Boots, in Spokane, as an Authorized Dealer. So it's seasonal, and it's physical work, requiring good hand strength, and a dig in attitude. I'm willing to teach someone with some knowledge of shoe/boot repair. The suitable candidate will have a good hold on his "baggage", and a fundamentally sincere, cheerful, sence of humor. I'm located in Prescott, just an hour and a half up the hill from Wickenberg, AZ. If you're going to be in the area this coming week before the SW Leather Workers Trade Show, give a call and come up for a visit to discuss this opportunity for the right person. Paul 928 442-1213

I have bought milled veg from Glenn at W/C. They'll even split it to whatever you want. I've also bought milled from Waterhouse. Mount it on Illustration board, and tool even 3 oz. leather like it was 8!