Leatherimages

Very good choice. On many levels.

Very nice. I'm diggin' this one. Good on you.

I'll be number four. Welcome Jock. I'm sure there are many others who are also glad to see anouther individual on the site. Strength in numbers.

You could eliminate the need for a lining if you went with a tunnel stitch. Stohlman shows it in the applique portion of his tutorials. You would use a curved awl and put the "tunnel" through the center of the leather and exit nearby. Don't go all the way thru the leather. Then tie it off and go on to the next one. This is similar to what we might have done as kids when you would pass a needle thru a layer of skin on your finger and out again.

Acetone is a second choice. Just be sure to follow with oil after you dye dries.

Nice Job! You sure don't need anymore stitching advise. By the look of these maybe you didn't need any in the first place. Beautiful.

What a remarkable piece. A contruction like this is a lot of work. May I ask what weight thread is that and where did you get it from? Really nice construction. I just would rather see the edges rounded and burnished. Good work.

Yes I do. Call me if interested. 928 442-1213 Paul

Brad, I am a boot maker, and I have an Adler 30-1, but I don't know if I can help. But I didn't want your question to go untouched. I haven't had need to become familiar with the timing on mine, but it has skipped stitches before. There's a variety of reasons; from the cement that may be on the underside of the piece, the size of the needle in relation to the size of the thread, the pressure of the foot on the material, and others also, I'm sure. Barge Contact Cement was the worst, and we can't get it anymore anyway. But sometimes such cements will gum up the scarf of the needle which will prevent it from making a loop for the bobbin case to pick it up and make the knot. Try a clear contact cement (Duall 88 is good) or a rubber cement as a remedy. Similarly if the size of the needle is too small for the thread, it won't "play" the way it needs to to make the loop/knot. The needle should be able to slide down the length of the needle without hanging up. As a last guess, if the material isn't clamped down firmly by the foot pressure then the knot can't form either. Look at the back of the arm and you'll see an adjustment knob you can move along a bar which will cause the foot to press down firmer on your material. I hope there is some help in here for you. Get back with specifics if not.

Nice job. May I ask where the snaps come from? They look nicer than the usual.

Here's an interesting addition to the peg conversation :http://vimeo.com/19504789 BTW, Panhandle seems to be the supplier of choice for pegs and many boot making supplies, but other shoe finders like Southern Leather in several states also carry them.

I just slick mine with a handful of gum trag.

Pretty nice job. I always like a case with a crease line. Your stitching looks pretty good, but you could shorten the stitch by half for some balance. 7 per inch would look good on a case this size. Regards, Paul

I'm sure I'm not the only one Robb Barr told his story to, but he almost got ornery and got arrested for his leather Eagle Feathers at a show one time. Would have been great publicity! RIP

Cool. Thanks for the link Chuck.

That's exactly what I was looking for! Thank you brother clod.

I don't know where else to start. And I hope one of you folks who watch this topic section.will be able to point me in the right direction. Yes, I'm looking for information on how to make an Eagle Bone Whistle, and I understand one can be made with a turkey leg. Could one of you either point me in the right direction or tell me how? TIA, Paul

Larry Waller carries about the only book on the subject that I know of. http://www.walrusshoe.com/books_pages/lasts.htm There are several members on the HCC site who have made lasts. Spend some time there for more info.

Using bonded thread is indeed the solution. I believe Linhanyl offers that choice. The non-bonded fuzzies would not show on fabric. Smooth leather surface gives it away.

Thanks for rejuvinating this conversation.

This from a long time gluer: Run a 100 or so grit sand paper over the surface you're going to be glueing. You need to open the grain for it to absorb. I like to say, "brush the cement on and cover the area well. And then with the same brush, wipe it all off. What's left is just enough." With many clear contact cements, like Duall 88, Master's All Clear, two coats is recommended. The first coat serves well as a primer, which would be very benifical the closer to the belly one works.. Oh, and "shiney IS a good idea, as Art suggests." I've been told by the industry people, that the problem with puddles of cement, is that air bubbles can be trapped in there, like in bread, and it can work it's way out o the edge. Too much oil can cause the glue to release also.

Kim that's a Single Edge Creaser. Proleptic.net (of Shop Talk Publishing) often has them for sale in their tool swap section. Bob Douglas (of Douglas Tools) does also. I also took my old Tandy bone folder to the sand paper and shaped one for myself once upon a time. You might try that also.