Leatherimages

My own choice is to use Fiebings Cherry Stain, followed by Black Antique Stain.

I have not tried this and I'm looking for the chance. In shoe making circles, especially handmade in Europe, they talk of adding dye to Gum Tragacanth to finish the bottoms of leather soles.. Gum Trag is also used to seal the flesh sides of leather products. Do a test and see what you think.

Nick, I strongly recommend DW Frommer's programs for an eductated approach. Very predictable results and lots of guidance and support.

Sorry, don't have any pictures of that, well that's not true. I do have a recent order of two pair of veg/chrome retan work boots I used it on, attached. Have not used it on new tooled leather, but I have used it on tooled belts that come in for shortening and such. It may darken it a little, but it's really more like it refreshes rather than "darkens", like you'd get from neatsfoot oil. For new tooled veg I usually use the Bee Natural Saddle oil, but I wouldn't hesitate to use the Obenauf's oil any time. I usually dye after tooling, let it dry and then oil. The Leather Preservative (LP) has 4 times the beeswax and propilis as the Oil. I'd use the LP for water resistance and Oil for softening and conditioning.

Furthermore, it leaves no oily residue, softens dry hard leather and water proofs. I've been using it for several tears now, and even like it for furniture. And it's formulate to melt at 98.6. Rub the LP in by hand. Good Stuff!

Andrew, They do, and it does. That's the thing. But you can still mount it on illurtration board for tooling, and get a nice effect. However I'm curious about the staking. You imply it makes it softer? Personally, I like the texture, and so have my customers. Below is a project using the textured areas.

I'll also suggest here asking W/C to mill it will make your carving leathers in weights 3oz to 6oz. It's like no other leather for "soft" after tooling. Use an illustration board rubber cemented to the back and tool away like it's 8oz. Turn it or mold it and you'll wonder why you didn't try it sooner. I don't work for them either.

I don't notice a welt. I think it would give the purse a line to fold at. And you can bone it to improve the fold even after turning. The 4 oz. suggetion above is good, and chrome is certainly softer. However if you wish to make a heavier veg tanned bag, you could go up to maybe 6-7oz., if you gouge a stitch line and use a welt. And I'll affirm that drying over a form will always improve the look of a turned item. Also using a glass, or any kind of smooth "burnisher, will also help in shaping. I've got a cocobolo "paddle" that works wonders for shaping and moving leather around. I think it's useful to mention that you don't have to be controled by the leather, Work with leathers that fit the bill for use, but also that you can in construction. For example, It looks to me like this center section leather has a "patent" finish on it. Using it at the seam might have been part of the problem. I think there could be a difference in the flexiblity of the two different leathers at the seam as the veg side sections, the one not being as pliable as the other. Is that Calf? FYI everyone, if you want to use a soft toolable leather for handbags (or other) try Wickett and Craigs Carving Leather, split 5-6 ounce (or your choice), milled. Milling bends all the straight fibers while tumbling in a large vat. When you open the box and lay your hand under the side of 'milled veg', it will feel as drapy as chap leather. And the texture of the belly and shoulder will excite you. Good luck and remember, 'it ain't brain surgery, but a brain surgeon could do it'. You can, you've got the tools!

I would suggest a conditioner like Obenauf's LP(they're in Boise. Look them up online), at least some Lexol to keep what nourishment may still be in the leather. Acetone can be very drying. Paul

Well, I suppose if you know someone with a soft touch and a sand/bead blaster cabinet. Or maybe the steel wool pad alone would have some of the effect you might want, I don't know. Other than that, your guess is as good as mine. Have fun.

It's an amazing testament to skin what Lava soap and a nylon knuckle scrub brush will do. On ethe other hand (pun intended) what doesn't come off will give you a chance to market your leather work.

Mkitzis, (interesting group of sylables you have for a handle, pardner) My experience tells me you should be ok with these. You're on the right track, a solution would be prefereble to fingernails. Speaking of fingernails, Acetone (the old kind of fingerenail polish remeover) might work for starters. There's other solutions that might cut it also, as it's probably an acrylic color coat of some kind. But really, the best thing would be to use a leather specific solution with steel wool. When I read your post first, I thought I was reading snake boots, and when I saw it is either textured cowhide, maybe water buffalo, I was convinced you'll pull these out just fine. The product you want is Deglazer. There are several different makers of the stuff, of which Feibings is but one. Degalzer should be available from a "shoe finder" maybe a local shoe repair shop can help you get some, or ever pour you a bottle. *Dye Remover by Magix is not the same thing.* I'm told Deglazer has an oil of some kind in it to keep it from drying the leather. So here's what I do to get a good dye job on footwear leathers. With a 000 steel wool pad, scrub the color off with the deglazer. You'll work up a slurry, so wipe it off with a rag as you work your way around the boot. There's no need to spread it around as you go. After you've worked it off in the first pass, repeat for a thorough deglazing. Next is to apply your spirit dye. Since it looks to be blue leather that was used, you'll get a good final black using Feibings Oil Dye. But if you want to use regular Feibings Leather Dye, I don't think it'll matter, just be certain to wipe all of the "dye stuffs" off immediatly after application. I don't think it matters if the leather is dry or not from the deglazer. I've done it both ways. Put the boot up to dry with trees in them, and leave it alone for a day or two. Your job will look way better if you keep the trees in them, cedar or plastic won't matter. After they are completely dry, now one could use "a color coating". Easiest and smoothest is a leather color spray, again found through shoe finders. My advise is to use as little as possible to get an even coat. Even if you choose a flexible brush-on acrylic, less is more with leather. Again, let it dry completely, and follow with a cream polish (let it dry before buffing), followed by a wax polish. You should be ready to skate your legs off with beautiful black custom boots. Good luck, Paul

<I'd like to get a pattern for the fur decorated style of mukluk, with a synthetic sole preferably. I'd appreciate it if anyone had any suggestions about where to locate one? I don't care if I have to pay for it, I just want a nice pattern so that I end up with a nice final product.> It occurs to me to offer this perspective about patterning footwear. It's a bigger deal than a wallet. I have been in your shoes (pun intended) and I know that it seems like it shouldn't be such a big deal. Especially when we have all grown up with moccasin patterns hanging on the rack at our local leather shops. But it is. I've learned in my years of making and repairing footwear, that there are many differnt types of feet, and the pattern seems to fail in types that are outside of the statistical norm. I seem to observe that there are many feet with long great toes, and very narrow heels. This is a completely different foot than the chubby ones the manufacturers think we all have. But that's really more a problem with shoes, and pull on boots too really. But to address pattern making from a moccassin perspective is it's own kind of issue. An outline of the foot and basic measurements are all that is needed along with a good understanding of the parts and how they go together. And that's the rub. I am thinking many leather workers are really just interested in making a pair of whatever style, as opposed to wanting to make an inventory for sale, as in a product line. But that's a viable thing too, of course. I would be willing to look at the mukluk page in the book or two that I have with it in, and see if I might be able to make a pattern for you. I would need info from the feet involved, but we can talk about that later if you're interested in my help.

I think lemon wood is all that is available. Any finder you may be buying your other boot making supplies should have them.

I recently scored a short arm patcher treadle stand that is in great condidtion. It doesn't fit my long arm Adler 30-1. Would anyone be interested in a trade?

Pretty darned good looking job, I'd say. Obviously not just your second time around boots. Looks like a good job on the outsole stitcher too. Regarding the underslung heel, while there is no official ratio, the higher the heel, the more underslung the heels needs to be just to walk without flapping every step. I've changed out lots of heels with this shortcoming. Frye Boots in the 70's were the worst. The brain knows where your heel ends, and the taper makes it possible to contact the ground with each step in this line, with the heel tapered at the back. Stability comes form the heel base coming straight down on the sides.

Good lookin' project!

RightOn Spinner. Thanks for the leads. Good luck with your own next diversion. ;-)

Well that's some pretty beautiful cheating, if there is any. I enjoyed the look at your work. Cool man!

You know, you might be right. I've observe that Mark Twian doesn't always follow what I was taught to keep adjectives and adverbs as close the subject as possible, so you could be right. On first glance it looks like the "sole-leather coverings" would be referring to the 'tapideros', but then I am (only vaguely) familiar with the saddle look you're referring to with the Mochilla. Like huge skists, right? That's certainly a covering. I'm probably being mis-led by the "sole-leather" part. And considering the way it's pronounced, with the "...illa", it would be an unfamiliar word in his vocabulary. You're probably right, think I'll go with it. Thank you TT!

May I jump in here without an answer to the querry, but rather with another question instead? I'm reading a short story by Mark Twain from his book Roughing It, called The Mexican Plug. In the story, he makes reference to a "Spanish saddle with ponderous tapidaros, and furnished with the ungainly sole-leather covering with the unspellable name". What do you think the "unspellable name" was? Did his Missouri English have trouble with the word tapidaros, or is there something else here? He spell it differently, but it wasn't "unspellable". I just think he might be refering to something different than our more familiar way of spelling tapaderos. Any ideas? What do you think? Paul