Kcstott

I would consider those portable saws and not a true table saw, light weight hobby stuff. My saw is a 1980's Craftsman, Cast iron and weighs about 400 pounds.

I don't know what size table saw you run but the one in my garage is a 10" blade and 2HP motor and it's far from small.

I've never seen a table saw with a brushed motor. The Universal brushed motors I've dealt with were fractional HP as in 1/10 HP.

Thanks for topic. following as I may need to get a binding attachment in the future and I don't have a bloody clue about these things.

I own a class 4 and a class 26, I bought the 26 because it’s time consuming to the the class 4 up to use thread 238 or smaller. It can do it, it’s just going to be a two hour or more set up and test run. my class 26 can go from 138 to 69 with nothing more than a needle/ thread change and backing off the top tension. I don’t see any 441 based machine being able to bounce from one end to the other in thread size.

yeah it's called retanning. and there's no real easy way for a person at home to give it a go. Springfield leather usually has cheep oil tanned sides that can be had. they have the pull up effect.

OP remember that the material will dictate what is best for the machine. None of these needle/thread charts are rigid standards, they are a guide only and the temper of the material will dictate what is the appropriate needle based on the thread used and the project consideration.

#222 loctite Or learn how to set saddlers rivets. Harry Rogers on Youtube has the proper accent and technique for you.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/101589880193668 no this is the group I was referring to. Al bane runs it with another guy named Bruce, Great info and big help when you need it.

Yeah I can't say enough good thing about that place. Steve, Dave, Heather, Vince and all the other unnamed faces. top notch people. Now go over to face book and look up the tips and tricks for cobra leather machines. you'll be glad you did

#69 is not gun belt sized thread. 138 minimum. not as heavy as the holster stitch but not far off either.

I only use nylon thread from Leather machine co. I have two small spools of polyester in a size 69. and when I bought my class 26 is came with a brand new spool of brown that was Tandy. The LMC thread is soft and supple. the Tandy thread is more like wire. stiff, abrasive, and course. I think it just has to do with how it's made. How many yarns per strand and how many strands per thread and how tight was it spun.

Being hard headed is no benefit to anyone.

Tough question. and I do agree don't skimp on anything but if money was no object you wouldn't be asking for options. So tools that speed your production pay for them selves over time. I'd heed the advice to the chisels above. I'm a machine stitcher but I'm now getting back into hand stitching as it just looks better on some things and in some joints it's unavoidable. You don't need an expensive hammer. a good Ball Peen will do. a nylon mallet will work as well. Cutting tools that can be resharpened are worth the money. Learn how to sharpen and strop your blades. Good edge tools are going to be a must for boutique wallets and hand bags. Now here's one thing few talk about. The quality and hand of the leather you buy. Do not cheep out on the leather unless you love frustration. At a minimum for a high end product you should be buying Herman oak, for Veg tan. I highly recommend Wicket and Craig for bridle leather and also if you can find it in this country is Sedgewick English Bridle. this makes great belts and straps and nothing compares. Thin English bridle make beautiful wallets and cases. it's very easy to work with and cuts exceptionally well. Tandy is not the place to go even though they recently began selling Herman oak leather. it's online only and the local shops don't carry it or they don't advertise that they have it. Remember. when a person buys a bespoke top quality product. they expect top quality. from the glue, thread, leather and finish. it all must be top quality not to mention your skill and labor.

look for a used one. I found one, paid half of retail for it and was able to pick it up.

op asked if any of the needles pictured would work. All you said was a shorter needle would work. Shorter than what? you maid no mention if the needles in question were any good. Try to be a little more specific.

the only thing available is from juki http://www.01521.com/ep/JUKI-DNU-241H-6.pdf

Simple geometry will stop them. The needles pictured are a mix of round shank commercial 1.6mm, 32 or 36mm long and flat shank household needles. The needles listed in the manual for this machine are a 135x17 system this is also a DPx16 and DPx17 needle system. the 135x17 are over 40mm long and 2mm shanked. Not going to fit no matter what you do.

From what I can find your machine needs a 135x16 or x17 needle or a DP17 system. 16,17 is. ball or leather point. the needles you have are far to small for you machine.

I bought one of the cheep ones off eBay. Ni fond of it but it works. the $100 one from Leather machine company is by far better. $75 better well maybe not but it is better.

I was going to suggest mineral spirits. but Diesel will work in a pinch. just don't get it on you. getting rid of the stench of diesel takes a while

I didn't get into leather craft to learn to sew Vinyl. If my wallet and journal market dries up due to a bunch of fruit loops wanting the wrong material I'll focus else where. While some may disagree with leather and the commercial beef industry. You will not find a leather bag in a landfill. you won't find a whale, dolphin, or seal wrapped up in leather lace or straps. Leather is biodegradable. it is a natural product. That same cant be said for the different petroleum based materials being dumped and finding their way into the ocean. I can sleep well at night knowing i have the skins of dead animals all over my house. I do not feel good about the plastics we have in this world

go buy some biothane strap. Strap works has it I've had requests like this. and I look at them and respond with. "What part of leather craft don't you understand?"

I've never seen anything referencing thread size to material thickness unless it was concerning breaking strength. doesn't mean it don't exist. My advice on belts is, Do you want to see the stitches or not? if you do then the bigger the thread the better. if you don't then a #96 or 138 Polyester thread for UV resistance.