Kcstott

135-16/17's are a very common system. The shorter needle will be slightly stiffer and stronger with an emphasis on slightly. I'd use what is available in the tip configuration you prefer. be it a ball, diamond, triangle, or a LR or LL tip.

Might be cheaper to have a new plate made out of stainless. pictures would help.

So the buckle has a piece of leather wrapped around it and that is riveted to the item. in some way that prevents you from accessing the rivets? It depends on the item but if it's valuable and there is money in the job deconstruction may be the only way to do it right. Outside of that you may have to modify an existing buckle and create what you need to solve the problem.

I machine stitch so ripping out a seam would not be too difficult. My problem would be cutting through the glue holding the seam together. Personally, I'd get a very large piece of steel that would fit into the holster where the rivets need to go. I'd then clamp that in the largest bench vise i have, set the rivets and be done. That said I'd never rely on rivets alone to hold a belt loop on a gun holster.

There's a few guys on Youtube that present good info for beginners. Makers Leather Supply Springfield Leather Stock & barrel Little king goods all of these guys have good videos for beginners

Veg tan is stiff or can be stiff, and is typically not desirable for bags unless you want stiffness in say a messenger bag or brief case type bag. Chrome tanned or oil tanned is softer leather and is more suitable toward a softer crushable bag. With the limited bag experience i have i would gather that you have your leather "finished" from the start. meaning treated and died ready to go. lay out your pattern, cut, edge prep, skive, etc. attach hardware, Stitch, rivet etc. minor edge finish if the seams were exposed. maybe even dye the edges. If they are a blind seam then nothing need be done.

Are you using the lock on the stitch length lever? And is it locked? have you messed with the wedge above the lever on the slot? that wedge is used to calibrate forward and reverse and if mucked with will screw up the matches stitch length. as for the machine changing stitch lengths I have no clue there. come Monday id give leather machine co a call and see what they offer.

So I got to meet Luanne. Very nice person and she allowed me to take that machine off of her hands for a very good price. That machine has a very welcoming new home and it will be a very useful new tool in addition to the class four. And a far sight easier to move in the house than the class four that’s for sure

I just picked up my second machine. Cobra Class 26. thank you Luanne. as yo the comment on hand vs machine sewing and knowing the difference. I’d say about 2% of the population that buys leather goods would have a clue & know what to look for. that said quality hand stitching can not be reviled. but I’m over it. I’ll never hand stitch with thread again. I’ll buck stitch lace but that’s it. With the addition of a class 26 there is little I can’t handle. Shoes! I can’t Goodyear welt stitch a shoe. but other than that I’m good

two point rule yes. three point is tough. I have the same one made by Whitney I believe

Yep. My reason right there. Not to mention getting really ticked off at a leather jacket shop for declining running a stitch down a soft gun holster to tighten up the fit. They wanted me to find a cobbler to sew it. no thanks I bought a class 4 and did it my self

A little bit of everything. This is nothing more than a hobby for me. not trying at this time to make any money doing it. Trying to learn the skills needed to maybe one day make some money doing leather work. So far I've done gun holsters, a few belts i made a really nice hand bag for my daughter. sewn everything from 3 oz with #69 to 3/4" thick stacked leather with #277. The class 4 doesn't like #69 thread and running with such low tension. It's a beast of a machine and why i decided to look for a class 26 a slightly lighter duty machine that will run #69 and #138 with ease and I can leave the class 4 set up for the heavy stuff. Leather machine Cobras are imported (china) but they have a solid foundation and a good product with excellent support. There are far to many High end leather makers using their machines for them to be unreliable.

why you would want to lift off the antique? well you only want to high light the deeper parts of the carving. I have zero experience carving and staining but from what I see makers do is. apply a resist to the top high spots of the carving. then completely cover the carving with the "stain" antique i guess. then they wait a bit and remove the excess and they are left with a beautiful antiqued finish.

I'll take a guess at it due to my experience being pretty limited as I am very new to this but I love my Leather machine co. class 4 and should be picking up a class 26 this weekend. these two machines will have all my bases covered with material thickness in leather work that I use. If I could afford Juki I'd have those instead. That said don't under estimate import machine. Be it a Cowboy, Cobra, Tandy Pro. Sailright, etc. you just need to find a machine that will work with what you are trying to do. Now not having used the class 26 all I can say is the cylinder arm is smaller in diameter and the capacity under foot is less than the class 4 but the class 4 is a harness stitcher. so it's needs the capacity. if I were to get into bag work I'd buy a class 20 flat bed machine and a class 26 cylinder arm. that would cover your straps and bags up to 16 oz of chrome or oil tan no problem. being that I'm going to guess you won't be sewing with heavier thread then a #92

be careful on backing out the foot pressure to much. you need sufficient down force to hold the work down and the needle is pulled back up and out of the leather. You need a shoe makers hammer and a rub stick. gently hammer & rub the stitching and most marks go away.

More like watch this knuckle head Put a lock stitch through his finger. the nice thing about servo motors is the torque power they have to stitch through nearly anything, the bad thing is the anything could be your finger and the machine won’t care. hope you get this figured out. I think you need to find someone that will sell you and install a speed reducer for you. The guy you mentioned doesn’t seem to be very helpful. wish I or you were closer I’d come over and take care of it for you for nothing.

Gravitated to hand sewing??? I thought that's why I bought a machine. I swear I'll never hand stich leather in my life again.

Here's the manual for your servo controller. I'd adjust it way down in top speed about half, and increase the slow starting speed to about 4 or 5. this will give you a ramp up of about 1.5 seconds. I have my Cobra class 4 Cut back to 15 on the max speed. http://www.keysew.com/Webpages/Owners&PartsBooks/OwnersBooks/EnduroSM600-1Keyfooter.pdf

with a proper speed control you can thread the machine while it's running. Don't try this at home, & Hold my beer & watch this.

Cutting springs only reduces preload. but the spring rate actually increases. you are reducing the number of active coils and that increases the spring rate. What should be done is pull the spring out and measure it. then order a new spring from say McMaster Carr with either smaller wire diameter or more coils per inch or both.

What I think is meant is the motor doesn't ramp up to speed.

you have a PM

there's one here in California for sale. I'm chomping at the bit to see if I can juggle some money around to get. it's going dirt cheep too.

Someone is going to get a hell of a deal on a good machine. Location is key. If i had the money I'd drive to you