Brokenolmarine

See that Strap off to the side? That came off a Gunfighter Cartridge Belt from a big name I had years ago when I started to shoot IPSC. (Started to shoot, didn't do well.) I was young and didn't have the funds for a lot of practice. I think it would have been in the Late 70s / Early 80s. It was a Bianchi piece of gear, VERY nice. I held on to it for years, DREAMING I might one day get back into it. Yeah, never happen. I finally dismantled the belt and saved certain parts for templates. I have used them often here and there. I "recycle." Thanks. I'm hoping for a good result. If not, great practice. I keep a positive outlook. (I do say nasty things in the shop when I blow it, but there isn't anyone to hear.)

Using a steep bevel, I worked on the features, sharpening the edges of each one and beginning to define them and highlighting. Beginning the 3D effects. During a second session, I really worked hard on the effects, working to push the illusion of items diving under the edge or protruding over the edge. I had also put more detail into the leaves and acorns, but there is still more to do. In the next session, I'll work on pear shading leaves, lifting, and edge details in the leaves. All items I have had some success with, but also some dismal failures. Wish me luck.

MY next step is shading in the background. It helps me to define the areas and to know what is what. This pattern especially has features that are drawn to appear to go over or under the tooling window edges. I took two sessions to background the piece but it really made a huge difference. The long view gives you a feel for how it makes the design POP. Once the hands get a break, I can start beveling the edges of the features and then work on details.

With arthritis, you can only do so much and then you have to take your breaks. I got this far, then took a lunch break. I came back after lunch to finish cutting in.

Using that pattern, I determined the length I needed at the ends for the buckle attachment and the attachment of the strap with the holes, then lightly drew in the defined end of the tooling window. Then I could start working the pattern from one end to the other. After I transferred the pattern, I sharpened two of my swivel knives, buffed them out on the rouged leather strope, and got busy cutting in. Fatter blade for the edge, and nice thin blade for the details.

Oh, Wait, that would be me. I need to work on my tooling and carving, so I decided what better way to practice than to tool a belt. My biggest problem is I don't have a butt. I have a gut, but no butt, so my pants are always trying to fall off. That can be somewhat embarrassing. Well, you know, depending on where you are. If I'm walking the dog in the middle of the north pasture, no one cares. We even got rid of the cows. They used to give me funny looks if my pants fell down, but even they are gone... so it's no longer an issue there. But, if I'm going down an aisle in Home Depot, that might be a different story. That's why I wear big ol' Suspenders. So, to get started, I cut out a couple wide strips of nice heavy leather. Nice looking stuff that should tool well. I'll carve the first belt, and get in that practice, then the second I'll put some bullet loops on for the 38/357; and use it for walks thru the woods or on my range.... at least that's the plan.

It's red. I just apply additional coats until I get about the color I want, keeping in mind I'll antique it, then apply the mink oil and wax, so it will darken.

The sheath was a practice piece to let me work with the Cowboy 3200. I still am learning the machine and it can do a lot more than I can right now. The wife is a quilter and can sew like a demon on my machine, but SHE has about six machines in her shop. Phaffs and Berninas, and several other top names. I'm "Learning" my machine and getting better. I finished the sheath in beeswax as well. This might be a keeper.

The knife is a Highly Figured Walnut Skinner. I didn't forge the blade blank, that came from my supplier, Jantz Knife in Davis, Oklahoma. They have everything I need to make them. The walnut came from my stash I have had for years. I formed the copper accent from 1" wide, 3/8" thick bar stock. The pins are Nickle Silver from round stock. I enjoy pushing my skills to strive for improvement and learn most of the skills from YouTube videos. The tooling on the spine is improving. I bought some metallic tint powder and tinted the epoxy to accent the tooling. First time I've tried that ... The highly figured walnut scales came out beautifully. I shaped them on the 1x30 belt sander then finish sanded them by hand to 1,000 grit. I love to bring them to life. I used Watco Golden Oak Oil Stain to make that grain pop with seven coats of Beeswax to finish and protect.

I like the knife and the sheath. Both are very well done.

Excellent work. Very nice tooling. Welcome to the forum. Look forward to seeing more projects.

One last set of pictures.... I put some trim on the sides of the display case with the for the sole purpose of hiding the cleats from view. I didn't think they would be that noticeable as you came in the door but they really grabbed your attention first thing. The trim matched the case very well and blended right in and was hardly noticeable. THAT was my intent. I installed it with two sided tape yesterday, just to see how it looked. I brought the compressor and pinner in today and tacked it in place. Turned out well. The last pic is this one. I spent Sunday working in the shop as well... but as a maid. I did some detail cleaning on the benches, tables, and the rest. Picking up and sweeping up, putting away small items left out and throwing away trash. Then I moved some roll around tool away from the wall to sweep and discovered some mice had chewed into the spray foam. I used Tina's miracle bug spray and went around the shop and sprayed a wide stream around the perimeter. This morning I found a large number of the beetles that plague Oklahoma and one mouse. I repeated the spray pattern. Shop looks nice now, so I guess it's time to start another knife project. A stag hunter I think, then the sheath.

By the way, a special thanks to DoogMeister for suggesting the French Cleats. As I said in the thread, I had known about them in the past, but my anesthesia erased memory had forgotten them. PERFECT solution for hanging this Display Case.

Thanks all. Now to decide on the sword display.

Okay, here we go, time to get 'er done. I used two screws in the studs to temporarily mount the cleat, then an awl to mark ALL the hole locations. Took the cleat back down and set the wall anchors where needed. THEN put the cleat back in place and mounted it. Worked as planned, she's up there. With the case hanging on the cleat, I could slip both the bottom cleats in, and mark their location from the side, then take it all down and mark the holes for mounting, and repeat the process. All the cleats got screwed in place and we are solid. Looks good. I added the trim to hide the cleats. A closer look The project is done, the book is closed. Time for a nap. I am really happy with the way it came together.

Moved the table out and took down the picture, cleared the wall and marked the eyeline. Measured up 8" from that, and down. Careful measurement of the back of the display case let me mark the height of the top cleat on the wall. Using a level, I marked a reference line for it's installation. Using a stud finder, I marked the position of the studs in the wall, and holding the cleat up, I transferred the info onto the cleat. I took my time, and double checked the work. I did the same with the two lower (one foot) cleats, marking the location of the stud that fell on the right hand cleat, and the lack of studs on the left hand cleat. I took the cleats to the shop, and using the 6' metal ruler, laid out the location of the holes to be countersunk and drilled, and CAREFULLY determined which would be into studs. THOSE didn't need countersunk due to screw type. Got the countersink done, then drilled thru them all. The cleats HAVE to sit flush against the wall, so I cleaned up the slight blowout on the back. I could have avoided blowout with a scrap backer, but I wasn't worried about the looks.

I too, re-read and rewatch. The house is filled with bookcases and the bluerays and dvds are now in sleeves made for music cds in binders. We toss the box as soon as we buy them. The boxes take up way too much space. Binders will hold 150 discs. I have an index for the collection in excel.

When I say I went thru it all, I mean everything. I found things I had forgotten I had. My last five surgeries were supposed to be just an hour or an hour and a half, but turned into five hour marathons. Under that long, they all had an affect on short term memory. Sucks to forget things you knew, all the shortcuts and tips and tricks. I have binders full of notes and watch youtube videos before starting projects to refresh my memory these days. I also make checklists. Just like my old flying days.

Sadly, I have to be. I have had thirty surgeries. If I don't keep things organized, in their place, and MOSTLY labeled, I would spend (waste) LOTS of time looking for them. If you look in the background of the pictures, you'll see that the drawers, boxes, shelves... all labeled. A couple years ago I spent a month going thru everything in the shop de-cluttering and re-organizing. As you can see in the pics below, I used blue tape where needed, or just wrote on the tubs or containers where possible. The tool drawers are all kept neat, extra tools were thinned out. Cheap crap tools were thrown away. Quality extras were put in bags and went into the trucks, or the barn for use down there.

Out in the shop after breakfast and hit it hard. Got the wiring organized and secured to prep for mounting. Got the molding cut and prepped, then stained a dark walnut. Performed a lighting test o the system. Bright and dim. I think it looks awesome. Oh wait, that's just me. I'll have to rest for a while, too much time standing. Back and legs are complaining. I should get her up on the wall this afternoon.

Time to mount the cleats. I gave it a lot of thought and decided that I'd use longer screws around the edge of the top, where most of the strain would be anyway. Those would go into the vertically mounted wood that wouldn't engage the leather. The screws that MIGHT engage the leather would be inserted with extra care. I laid out the pattern with care and marked the holes and marked the two different size screw locations. They would need different pilot hole bits and depths. Following the layout carefully, I drilled the holes taking care to follow the depths I needed. The red markings were 2" depths. The other holes were 1-1/4 depths. They also used different bits. I glued the back of the boards and the back panel in areas I laid out. Slow and careful, and it worked out perfectly. I left the glue to cure overnight and tomorrow we'll set the wiring, cut and stain the molding in preparation for attaching it after the case it hung. The case and the molding pieces will all get a final coat of wax. The wall cleats will go up and we will set the case and then we will be .... well, done.

An interesting anecdote about that little plane... If I were told I could only save ONE tool from my shop if it were suddenly engulfed in flame, I would grab that plane. There are tens of thousands of dollars worth of tools in the shop. Yes, it's a great little plane. You can tell what a great job it's doing by how fine those shavings are. But it's still just a $20 plane at best, a fifty year old Craftsman, if not older. It might actually be worth more like $5. To me? Priceless. The plane belonged to my Stepfather. He owned a small contracting company, and never had to advertise. He had customers waiting, usually two or three deep. He was known as a perfectionist, and for his honor and integrity. He taught me to appreciate woodworking and Carpentry, and the love of quality. That plane rode in his personal toolbox, or his apron pocket. WE were not allowed to use it. When he passed, I got his personal toolbox, and the plane, his hammer, square, and a few other hand tools. If they said I could have TWO tools, I'd pull his hammer off the wall to accompany that plane. When I use that little plane, I can sometimes feel his hand on my shoulder. Yup, only one tool? That Plane.

The last steps before mounting the cleats involve a sharp hand plane. The various videos suggest knocking off the knife edge from the 45 degree angle. I have just the plane and I took each of the cleats in turn and made a half dozen or so passes, taking a thin shaving off the edge each time. A closer look lets you see exactly what I was talking about. Notice that there is a clear difference in the knife edge in the two pieces. What this does is allow for a small pocket of space when the cleats join in use. If there should be dust and debris floating in the room, the razor sharp edges left unchecked could be forced up and out of contact, however this space leaves room for the dust / dirt to collect without disturbing the tight fit of the joint if the case is taken on and off the wall to clean the glass or rearrange the content. Better safe than sorry.

With a bit more work, I get them into shapes that are close enough that will work, since most people won't give the molding a second glance since I am only adding it to hide the cleats. Once it's sanded and stained, and the junctions between the bottom and side moldings are blended, there won't be anything to draw attention, we'll be golden.

I headed out first thing in the morning to mount the cleats. It's a pucker factor moment. If I screw up just a bit in some of the areas, the screws could go thru and pierce the leather. We can't have that. So, Pucker factor. I know, I hear some of you out there. Shorter Screws. Ah, the cleats are 3/4", the back of the case is 1/2". The leather is about 1/8" thick. If I only had the screws go into the back panel 1/4" that wouldn't be much holding power, huh? I decided to work on the molding and give the cleats more thought, go ahead, call me Foghorn Leghorn, cause I'm chicken. I don't like to use the router if I don't have to, so I use the antique molding planes. I use the rounding plane and the 1/8" thick pine strip I bought, and secured it to the bench. I start making passes. To roll the edges you make continuous passes, moving the plane around the edge as you go until you are satisfied. You move to the second strip and try and match the edges. They are coming along but aren't done yet.