Brokenolmarine

SJ - I ordered the pattern from Tandy early this week, and today we drove to OKC to pick up a few things directly from the "Local" (two hours away... pfft... local) Tandy store. I grabbed the Side of Leather to make the scabbard and a western gunbelt rig, which I had also ordered the pattern for. I have one shop project to finish and then I'll attack that scabbard.

I've been in the shop in Oklahoma for more than two years, still trying to get it figured out. LOL. Good job. I have a leather corner in mine, the rest is more woodworking. Nice shop, I'm sure you'll find a way to fill it.

I did have room, finding a dowel long enough was a problem, but Miss T found a replacement mop handle that worked perfectly. So now the paper towels and thread have a home.

The house in VA? Backed up to the State Park, and was across the street from a State Forest. Never had to worry about development. The people across from us own about 80 acres. We have a 60 acre hayfied on one side, and 30 and 40 acre lots on the other. Our only risk for development is a property just a little up and across from us, but the land isn't suitable to build. Criss Crossed with creeks, old drill sites, and well heads, and there are several old gas lines running across the ground that would have to be removed. A gas company easement runs diagonally across the lot. The owner passed about a year ago and the family owes 100 grand on the three other lots they own, so if they sold the sixty across from us they would have to pay what they owe on the other lots before they could collect a penny. Doubt they will sell anytime soon. They leased the property to the neighbor to graze his cows on.

These days it's a working shop with shelves and areas set up for the various projects. I even have a table set up for knive shaping. Adapt and overcome. Both the table in the foreground and the area against the wall in the background are mainly used for shaping the scales on knives, but I can also shape cane handles and the like as well. At three O'clock in this picture you can see the leather bench, but I have since rotated it 180 degrees and moved it away from the wall as you see in the other pics in the thread.

When we bought the place that building was dark and dreary and had thirty year old Fluorescents for lighting. Half the ballasts were dead and the light assemblies weighed about thirty pounds. The wiring was exposed and just twisted in the open. The shop was unheated, and uninsulated. I had a spray insulation done, and double on the root to combat the 100+ degree summer heat in the metal building. I removed all the lighting and it's wiring and rewired the building and added LED lighting. I wired all the connections in proper boxes for safety. Boom... you could see in the shop. Once I added the mini-split heat/ac I replaced that junk yard screen door with a solid door so the ac could do it's job. These days the shop stays at 68 degrees. I'm always working to improve the shop, but I won't build a new building. Too old and broken to spend that money... LOL.

I waited a lifetime to build a dream shop. But I walked away without looking back due to the politics. The new shop isn't as nice but we have 21 acres in the country, and are surrounded by farms and pastures as well. It's a farm community outside a real ghost town in Oklahoma. It's quiet. Exactly what we wanted. Other than an occasional tornado warning... ... we love it here. Here is a look down on the north pasture from the top of the hay field.

My plan is to frame in the wall from the inside. Once that's done, install the new door, cover the inside of the wall with 1/2' plywood. Then we'll roll the old door aside and remove the metal sheeting, with the insulation intact and apply it to the outside of the new wall. Once that is accomplished, I'll remove the metal framing of the rollaway door, and then the tracks. May add a small awning to insure no leakage. There is a slight gap between the carport and the barn. As we get closer, we'll draw up detailed plans and materials list and check on available door sizes.

The next project for the Shop Itself? To put in climate control I had to seal the huge roll aside door. I can only stand for short periods and I use my wheelchair in the shop. It won't fit thru the side People door of the shop. I sealed the roll aside door by using six cans of spray foam around the door to keep the heat and air inside. You can tell the difference by looking at the white foam vs. the dark yellowish professionally sprayed foam on the rest of the walls and ceiling. If you look in front of the tractor in the pic below you can see the outside of that roll up door.... before I sealed around the door, it would swing in and out on the wheels it was hanging on, the lock allowed about two inches of play at the very bottom. That let a lot of air exchange, so the new Mini-split had a hard time maintaining the heat or AC. Once I sealed it, 68 degrees year round. The next project is to frame in that area as a wall, with a double door 4 to 5' opening. I can get the wheelchair in and out, and bring materials directly into the shop without having to go in thru the secondary rollup door of the boathouse, seen over the tractor above.

I wasn't going to spend another $50,000 to build another shop so I adapted the old workshop at the new property. I might insulate the other half of the building and open up the wall to add a bit more space down the road... but I'll likely just make do. The health won't allow the size projects I was tackling in the new shop in VA... I mainly build smaller projects to use around the house and stick more to cutting boards, knives, presentation boxes, leatherwork... so I'm good. The shelf on the leather bench? I can add side tool bars if need be. LOL.

I need a bigger shop but won't build one. When we moved from Virgina to Oklahoma I had JUST built a custom workshop with everything just so. I had a custom builder come in and build it just the way I wanted. Heavily insulated, 10' walls and perfectly lit. Plugs around the walls at 4', every eight feet, windows HIGH up the walls for light but the wrong folks couldn't see in. Climate controlled, finished interior and bright white walls to reflect the light. Then, the pockets of democratic voters put a bought politician in office and we moved out. HE paid back the billionaire who bought his governership by giving away the state. I regretted walking away from that new shop and my few good friends... but ....

The color looks great, even and smooth. I'll get there eventually.

Actually, I forgot to add the rod to the design, maybe later. I'll have to find a six foot one. LOL. But here is the new updated, wider model, I finished this morning. This one is taller than the old one pictured above by a foot, wider by a foot, and has much more room. Has slots in the tool bar for the mallets, and the shelves are deeper and spaced better.

Last view, of the side. Note that I am so anal I countersunk and plugged the holes, then sanded the plugs flush. The wife always laughs at me for this kinda stuff, but when SHE sews, quilts, or crochets, she's just as bad. If I was to stain this; those plugs would POP! I put a screw in this side to hang the Optivisor and one on the other end to hang the leather strop for sharpening the cutting tools. This will help keep the desktop clear.

Went out this morning after all the glue had a chance to cure, and sanded down the glue lines and squeeze out. I sanded all the plugs flush. Sanded away any pencil marks I might have missed. This is a working shelf and I don't plan to put a finish on it at this time, but I didn't (CAN'T) just throw it together. I want it to look halfway decent. I cleared off the leather working bench and set it in place and then for Safety's sake I had figured out how to secure it. I cut a jointer plate in half and screwed both sides to the bench top. Now, it shouldn't be able to slide sideways, NOR tip over forward or back. If I ever decide to use the table for another application, I can fill the holes and touch them up with oak stain, they will barely be noticeable. Here is a front view of the shelf, EMPTY.... Here is a view of the shelf loaded up. Hey, always happy to share, it's how we learn. Check the website, they say how the head is attached.

I looked it up, and I was pretty sure it came from Lee Valley Tools. https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/mallets/110896-veritas-journeymans-brass-mallets I have had mine for more than a decade, maybe two, and used it a lot. It's still a handy little tool, great for setting small nails and center punching. I use it a lot when making presentation boxes and the like. Here is a closer look. I felt it was worth every penny.

It's a woodworking mallet, I think it came from either Lee Valley or Woodcraft. When I go out to the shop this morning I'll check to see if the brand logo is still readable. It was purchased years ago just for setting center punches or seating nails on fine woodwork.

Careful assembly was begun. First glue was applied to the ends of the 4x4 block that IS the toolbar. Using 1,2,3 blocks to raise the angled 4x4 into position and the wife to help stabilize the sides, we slowly screwed the tool bar into place, then put a band clamp around that first assembly to help the screws pull it tight. Next, using a neat assembly cheat, I placed two wood bars at the next shelf level and clamped them in place, and glue was applied to the ends of that shelf. It was laid on the wooden bars, set flush with the front of the shelf and screwed into place. Repeating this process saw the shelf unit assembled. When it was assembled and left for the glue to set with band clamps in place, it was Nearly Done. What remained was to figure out how to put either back panels or rails on the back of the two upper shelves to keep supplies from falling out the back. I "Thought" I had a sheet of Luanne left. I took a break then came back out and ripped the replaced shelf down both sides... getting the lumber to make the shelf rails. Both rails were glued on the ends. The lower shelf was glued along the bottom and clamped The upper shelf is floating, and was pinned and glued. All that is left to do now is to sand the plugs that were installed to remove any glue and insure they are flush. It will also remove any stray pencil marks, basically the shelf is done. I'll post one more pic from the front empty, then with the tools and supplies in place.

With the basic pieces done, I needed to drill the countersunk holes for the shelves in the sides of the unit. careful layout and a forstner bit for the countersink and that was knocked out. No step was rushed. The layout. Center punch the marks Next drilled the pilot hole for the screws and then the countersink for the plugs.

I went back out after all the work and decided I wasn't happy with the second shelf with the holes and hanging slots. Too much time and effort had gone in the build so far to settle, and when I was routing, I had already broken one of the "Teeth" of the slots off and had pinned and glued it back in place. The job was so well done you couldn't tell, but... I decided to redo that second shelf with some changes to the layout. To strengthen the teeth, I would widen the spacing from 1-1/2" between the centers to 2" I had also checked the usability of the original layout, and discovered I didn't need as many of the 7/8" holes. I marked more points for 3/4" holes, fewer 7/8" holes and only the one 1-1/4" hole. The layout was completed, and I centerpunched the holes. Next, I took to the drill press. I suspected that one of the reasons I had broken off a tooth, was that the forstner bits tended to break out wood on the back of these boards even with the backers, I first drilled pilot holes all the way thru, then set the press to drill slightly over halfway thru on the first passes on the front, then flipped the board and drilled the rest of the way thru. Worked perfectly, clean passes on all. The next step was to mark and cut the slots, route the edges and the interior of the slots and drop holes, and then sand the shelf. Looking good.

Got back at it and knocked out the extra shelves. Got all the edges routed and was ready to start on the sanding. First I matched up the edges on the two sides and marked the location of the shelves. Prior to beginning the sanding, I set up the homemade downdraft sanding table. I made this years ago, and I have used it often. I hook the dust collector to the end and sand ON the downdraft. It reduces the dust by 95%. I love this thing. Tomorrow morning I will check the various aspects of the shelves, make sure the tools fit the slots, the holes, etc. Then I will drill the pilot holes and countersinks for the screws... Boom, we'll be go for assembly.

Afternoon session let me route the sides and the inside of the holes of the shelf, and also knock out routing the edges of the tool bar while I was at it. I have NOT fine sanded the shelves and may not. A pass or two before assembly but this will be a working rack and I'm not planning on putting a finish on it. I routed the edges to knock the sharpness off them, and to ease the movement in with the tools. Next step on this one was to cut the slots and route those cuts. I cut all but THREE of the marked slots, deciding that I wouldn't use as many slots as I would the drops in the future. Next steps involve making the additional shelves for storage of dyes, paints and finishes; and the side panels. Then a couple passes with the sander to remove splinters. I will also ADD the rack for the letter and 3D stamps.

Now that I have all the holes drilled, I'll mark the lines to open the 3/4" holes into hanging slots as the next step when I go back out. Once that is done, it will be time to move to router work. I'll route the edges of the slots, and the inside of each of these holes. I'll save that to the end, just before assembly, as I'll route all the edges of the shelves and the edges of the sides, for aesthetics Much more to come... hang with me if you are interested.

Got out this morning and started on the second shelf. This one, like the old one, will hold the tools that hang by the handles or drop in the holes, like the swivel knives, the bevels, and the stitch groovers, etc. I marked a center line first, then marked the spacing for the 3/4" holes, the 1" holes and the 1-1/4" holes. Once I had the spacing marked in pencil, once again I got busy with the centering punch and mallet. Careful punching of the holes insures that the forstner bits will cut in the correct location and give me a nice line when all the holes are drilled. I noted the location to change bit sizes ON the line, as the bit will cut away the notations. Once all the guide holes were punched, once again it was time to move to the press.

I had to spread the work on the tool bar out over the day. A man has to know his limitations. But, I got the holes drilled. I'll use a countersink to round the edges of the top of all the holes later. The next step will be to make the new second shelf, cutting the slots and drop holes for tools in the new wider shelf. The tool bar looks pretty good for an old man... Here is a look at the progress so far... more tomorrow if I'm not too beat up and have to rest for a day.