Tastech

@TakashiOkada. Here is a photo of the guard. It is aluminium. it slides over the shaft and covers the blade it can be moved left or right using the allen key screw to only expose the amount of blade you use . It's not hard to make if you know a machinist . I get my blades from Leffler in Melbourne Australia . They are the Landis agent here . The link is an example of what they have . search on their site for Landis sole trimmer blades. They have many variations . They also have various size trimmer shields for when the blade loses its diameter because of sharpening https://www.leffler.com.au/trimmer-sole-5mm-/ There is also these guys in the UK . I am pretty sure that the british standard sole trimmer blades and the Landis blades are compatible with each other https://www.standardgroup.co.uk/shoe-repair-machines Keep in mind that i know for a fact that Chinese blades only fit Chinese machines . the internal diameter is different . The made in china machines are actually pretty good to use . The only drawback is the blades and brushes are only available direct from their factory and not interchangeable with British , American or Australian machines

@TakashiOkada Your internal measurements almost correspond to a Landis blade. I am getting the measurement of 19.4mm on the internal on my landis blade . Search for Landis or Sutton . They are interchangeable . I believe the British machines also take the same blade measurements . Now lets talk about saftey of your machine or lack there off .That blade needs a safety guard. You are one slip away from losing a finger and thumb . I saw it happen 30 Years ago to a co worker . His hand was a mess and he never worked again . Just looking at your machine gives me PSD and makes me feel weak in the stomach . Please do something about it .Please

@Westaussie Yes we have our fair share of idiots in Canberra however they are generally not home grown . They are born and bred in other parts of the country then elected and sent to us . We tolerate them because we must . Canberrans have to wear the flack when its not of our doing. To the men of the country i say ,If you put half as much thought into electing a politician as you do analyzing a footy game post match we would be in a much better place.To the women i say put half as much thought into electing a candidate as you do buying shoes online and we are good . I asked a customer last election who she will vote for . She said the best looking candidate . I thought to myself typical . But then she elaborated . Whoever i vote for is going to screw me and if i am going to get screwed it may as well be the best looking one . LOL i can't flaw her logic . I make and repair shoes for some of our politicians and their advisers. Not all of them are dumb arses but some are world class idiots where i wonder to myself how these people even have jobs . I would not employ them to collect shopping trolleys in a car park let alone sit in parliament. I think democracy is a bit over rated .

@Westaussie. Although your problem may seen unsolvable, it is a reasonably easy fix . I own and have restored a few 308's and the problem you have is not uncommon for a machine of its age . If you know a welder take it to them and get them to first grind the teeth flat and then with a mig welder get them to weld some "meat " to the feet . It is then a matter of filing the shape and the required grooves . You can do the filing yourself . You will need 2 files .1 flat medium file to get the dimensions and 1 triangular file to make the grooves . The foot is case hardened from the factory which makes it hard . The welding will soften the steel to make the filing easy . After welding it is important to let the foot cool on its own , do not dip it in water or oil while hot as this will cool it quickly and harden the steel . Once the shaping and filing is done and you have done a test and you are happy with it . You can then get it red hot with a blow torch and drop it in oil while its hot to harden it

@kiltedkrafts As they don't have serial numbers i don't think you will ever know . All i can say is that it is pre world war 2 because the factory was bombed. Vihl perderson took over production after that and made them under their name . Both machines are identical and parts are interchangeable . Needles are still available from the link below but to get parts means to buy an old machine and cannibalise it. https://www.leffler.com.au/pederson-needle-ltr-for-309-machine/

Here is he previous post i was referring to . I am sure it is the same machine as this post mentions only a different brand name .

I have seen the same machine with a different name. The machine in question i have seen was a Hugo Wertheim Melbourne . From my previous research i believe the machine was made under licence in melbourne. Hugo Werthiem also made smaller domestic machines and even piano's. Its been 5 years since i saw the machine and i really regret not buying it for $1200. If memory serves correct there was a recent post which has a picture of the Werthiem patcher .

While on the subject here is another restoration . Its an Esto 3 in 1 . Similar to a Landis . When i got it it was seized from being outside for 20 years. I replace it with a new blade and had to make a crank handle for it . As a matter of interest to fellow Esto 3 in 1 owners . The rotary blade i replaced is a new Landis blade . Therefore an Esto round knife / blade and the Landis are interchangeable. I got my blade in Australia from Leffler and sons in Melbourne . The color choice this time was inspired by a Subaroo that drove by . Estos were originally and ugly green but i think i chose one a little more appealing to my eye . The green color of the 3 in 1 and the orange one in the previous post are both auto paints in a candy pearl . The auto paint shop down the road will mix any color i want and will put it in an aerosol can for so i don't have to clean a spray gun between coats . Both machines work perfectly and are in every day use . I believe the orange one is over 100 years old and the green one from the 1950's

I forgot about this thread , Here the story. I bought the esto skiver in a previous post from RoToMiMo. I stripped it down to bare bones and went the whole hog. Below is a photo of the finished job. I went full Liberace on the paint job inspired by a Ford ranger that drove by when i was thing about color. I know its a bit out there but why not .

@bruce johnson That's a pretty impressive collection you have there Bruce . Excellent job on their restoration . I have about 30 lasting pliers in my collection but have no cast bell type . To be honest i didn't even know they existed till a couple of days ago . I will now be looking out for a decent one to add to my collection .

@lhow I would take a punt and say they are pre 1900's. The later models with a bell shaped hammer had screw in hammers ,the one pictured is cast as a whole piece .The earliest reference catalogue i have is from 1910 and it shows the screw in bell style . In fact that is the first one by any maker that i have seen with a cast bell hammer . With a rust converter treatment and a going over with a wire wheel they could become serviceable again .

As mentioned the pin is tapered and can be knocked out pretty easy using the right size drift one way or the other. It is very important not to use a hammer to get the pulley off . The best and safest way is to use a 3 jaw gear puller . Without feeling or listening to the machine i cant really say if it needs any attention . Is it just a little stiff or does it actually bind to a standstill ? The groove in the pulley is CNC machined to a tight tolerance is i would not mess with it . The bearing that runs inside it is replaceable and is softer metal therefore sacrificial . I would just persist with running it for about 1/2 a mile of stitching and see what happens from there

There is a break in period with them , I am sure the binding is in the upper pulley wheel .On the machine side of the upper pulley wheel you will notice an elliptical groove . the needle lifting arm ( the see-saw bit across the top) has a little bearing that sits in side the elliptical groove and this is what give the see-saw its motion thus lifting the needle . This usually needs a bit of time to bed in. You will probably notice the tightness occurs when the bearing is in a tighter radius in the groove . Some older singers still have that tight spot even after 30 years . Technically the machine is a singer clone in every way and should perform as one . They have not been around for that long so no one really knows how long they will last . My bet is at least a lifetime, where a singer might last 3 life times . I have 3 singers and one clone . the singers are well over 100 years and work perfectly 99% of the time . The clone is 3 years old and still a little tight but prefers a thicker thread than the singer . i ended up putting an original singer shuttle and bobbin in it and works better . I think the clone bobbin shuttles are not that good especially the tension spring on them . I think oil and putting it to work should sort it out

What a grand old lady . The machine i mean .lol Did anyone else notice the wear on the outer foot pedal in photo 5 ? That probably took 30-40 years to get it like that . When i look at old machines like that i can't help wonder . Some one has made a living using it , bought a house and raised a family sent their kids to college and retired . The machine gets passed to a new worthy owner and the cycle starts again . I am sure the old girl has heard laughter and felt tears and no doubt being a Landis many a curse word has been spoken to it and in its presence . Still going though and by the looks of it still loved. makes me smile

@acem77 Below is a link to an English shoe making tool manufacturer called George Barnsley The catalogue is from the 1920's . Barnsley tools were probably the best in their field at the time and still used today . I still use vintage Barnsleys's everyday . I think the catalogue with help you identify what you have . But we still want to see photos . https://archive.org/details/barnsley-and-sons-shoe-tools-catalogue-1927/page/n1/mode/2up?view=theater Click the link and download . On the bottom right you will see left and right arrows .click the arrows to turn the pages . In there you will find a version of just about every shoe making tool and what they are called . Other makers have variations of the same tool but are generally named the same . I use the catalogue as a reference source but i am pretty familiar with most of it . I think i may even have a bout 70% of what is pictured , not because i use them but because i collect them . For those that a wondering what a welt mill looks like ,below is a photo . The teeth on the mill correspond to a height or thickness of leather . A skiving knife is held across the chosen teeth and the leather strip pulled through cutting it at the desired thickness . Essentially it is a leather splitter . Its not a big tool

I am intrigued please do post some photos . Brass welt mils were made of brass so they would hold up better in the salt water . Most other tools would be made of steel with wood handles . It would be interesting to see how these hold up over time . I would be fascinated in the the background story . Where were the tools found and what year did the ship sink . Where did it come from and where was it going . You would be surprised with the meticulous records kept by shipping companies . If you can find the records you can find out a full cargo list . ,where it came from and where it was going . I get excited when i find old tools in a long forgotten shed or in the back of an old shop covered in dust . Its like finding treasure . But actually bringing them up from a shipwreck is about as good as treasure hunting gets . The fact that you found a welt mill tells me a few things . Good year welting became fairly normal around the 1850's so it would be some time after that that there would have been a market for a factory produced welt mill . I have seen new ones for sale on etsy i think , but there would be limited demand for them now days . To be honest i i have never seen one come up for sale on Ebay in the last 10 years . I think the tool is so obscure that no one really knows what it is so mis-identify it. There was one owned by the master shoe maker who taught me but i never saw him use it because we would buy welts pre made in various thickness and widths . If i ever do come across one in the flesh i would not hesitate to buy it to add to my collection .

@susanjeanscott did you by any chance buy this machine in Canberra a couple of years ago ?

Perhaps 2 versions of motor 120 volts for north America and 220-240 volts for the rest of the world .

I would use a wooden dowel to repair the hole and then fix the screws into the same position. Select a dowel size .eg 1/4 " dowel . Drill out the existing hole with a 1/4' drill bit . Apply a high strength wood glue and knock in the dowels . When dry after 24 hours screw into original position . It's pretty much the same method a carpenter would use when replacing screws on the hinges to re-hang a loose door . The method seems to work well .

@Gerald Whitehurst With T90 i use a size 20 minimum needle . A size 22 is ideal

@hugh123 Just found this while searching ebay . It looks like it has potential but i don't know how compatible it is with a standard feed dog . I ordered one to experiment with. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/167507136396?_skw=roller+foot+for+singer+31K-20&itmmeta=01JWXCQJ4AGJVPYNWVW18KNB7V&hash=item2700340f8c:g:ldQAAOSwP9ZideG~&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cEIlHfb8sInkPmjL0p%2FgNQ4XNRdPNI1GJi9YJ2%2BiJnSpLXr%2FfmfFisNgsVgZbN367LwL9iJlX8j1qKvTZIwws4AnXkZGVjE3gKiNW5kOmW5Sp5RkXNueimLJ6w1KjggajzRI%2ByQEp4iZyzl%2BY3BR1Cd4levH6VmZJ5b6K34i2YchyzuzaUHze%2Bgfm2vSgZbisY6vDaEcLUibwhGn7VklrOP5rskMWcyUHIr9PUnAErYBrrnOrKNdP401UXFtwlFKEhj3%2FlVcJZKwX87HxSA67keTr2nzQ0g5aIFTbS10%2B9%2BijHvU6vG4hvSxLlV7f5CzA%3D|tkp%3ABFBMrKLerOdl

@hugh123 You are correct . there is no way to convert to a walking foot . However converting to a roller foot is easy . I have a roller foot on one of my machines that is not a conventional roller wheel but a flat foot with needle bearings built in . I got it on ebay a couple of years ago as an experiment and it works fine but its a bit hard to see whats going on underneath so i use it for a specific purpose which is doing french seams . From memory it bolted straight on with no foot height adjustments . below is the link . Feet are generally universal and will fit most generic machines https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/365600908899?_skw=roller+foot+for+singer+31K-20&itmmeta=01JWXCQJ49B77637G3JE4XYEEN&hash=item551f832663:g:7IYAAOSwhx5oI~hn&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1fCN2aP9mPAusXtjaGkljFugJUoWrdFrw4oueyVnNjUGkLMsqw2A6ARqmDzLoQ65%2B6VKZ5BpJTIWHqUr1gsAOKSLFs8TQ7CYKhMETxipEaei3vvBp2b%2F91N8AvpaCQMLo4Vt%2FACuoad%2B1uTF%2FZhtZZe4nyAKUA%2BakPAP8b4jzIepqj%2FPyMITWByc4pS5%2B7vzVZkJLYamjy3tohmqev4LqOx4N3YrFdOSZLuyKw7jk9yoBvIxS%2F6rUjcjTQfAKRfpHL7MYjwrt9WDEaUN7Bgm7pWJqhF0m4BK0OBfFbvFjZpDAE2byPoGcXJAFcLL9q2Opk%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR6yi3qznZQ I also have converted another machine with a conventional roller foot. You will have to replace the feed dog as well as the roller and make a height adjustment to the foot bar . This foot however will not fit on the 31K-48 because it has a different needle clamp and the thread hook touches the roller when fully down . https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/354875933078?_skw=roller+foot+for+singer+31K-20&itmmeta=01JWXCQJ49JEFKG7SBTM0GYEDA&hash=item52a0410196:g:qDAAAOSwvsBkmk8w&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1e%2F5qCmG6xFw0AmKOEDIWLEe0meYXmfQ2BKpJtZ1P%2Bh48FCaYQZxULdwlEtyKbEMBeLpidUIA45OPgpgjVKM7yJB2L4LXfRmBZyQDRrRs5L67GNxP206vL3mdP1QxDH994bxrJCjnO%2FS1Jl%2BA2SE%2FAYNaXNlXFo1vdRbo%2BgC6k3D%2Fh79FmOJRI7H8SiRghTvt98TlD4e62mktu678ExQ%2Bbj%2F27xXANP%2B6RmhCZ4GgUeP3EeIlhQy0YPye%2BwjIuW7R7lER0emGv9yKVHvmY1ejsdzEz3LiHr4EZfaEYdfrV2SVnFAddYtRhsNJ26bgZMiEQ%3D|tkp%3ABFBMqqLerOdl Its up to you which one you think will suit your need better. If you do get the 31K-15 ,compare the bobbins and case with the 48 and you will see what i mean about difference .Its only a couple of millimeters but they are not interchangeable .

It could be 2 things . I don't have one of these machines so i am making some assumptions based on a Singer 29K. First the timing could be out . This is where the hook on the bobbin case is not picking up the top tread . It's hard to explain but easy to fix . I would check that first then proceed to the second likely cause which is the needle adjustment (left to right ) is not in the ideal position . Again an easy fix which is easier to explain . It could be a combination of both . I will leave it to someone who has one and knows more about the machine to either correct me or agree with me . I would expect @Wizcrafts to chime in and give you the lowdown on the method of adjustments . I have a question of my own .Why is it that only Americans have the hand wheel attached to the side of the machine and not the front ? from my experience this is most unpractical.

@CoupdeTete Try a shoe repair supply wholesaler , they are a standard type of eyelet for boots . As for high quality ,they don't make them like they used to . I just recently bought 2 boxes of 3000 black ones that were made in the 1950's for the military. They are so good .

@hugh123 this is the one i got https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/203842070658 If you search sewing machine servo motor on ebay you will see this type come up everywhere . There is a difference between them such as watts and top end speed . I looked for the lowest speed and highest wattage . Note that the speed range i chose is 500-4500 rpm and wattage is 600W . Some state that their range is 0- 4500 rpm but i think they don't quite understand what they are talking about . I am happy with both the power and speed . I hardly ever run it above minimum speed which is fine for me . To run it even slower i just pulse the foot pedal and it gives me a stitch at a time .One thing to note with it is that you can bolt it straight on where the existing one was but the pulley did not line up so i moved it about 20 mm left or right . To get the right position i put the motor upside down on top of the table bed and inline with the slot and marked and drilled the holes from the top and then bolted the motor underneath . I didn't use a set length fan belt but this silicone rubber stuff that you cut to length and insert an aluminium joiner to connect the 2 ends . I have no idea what the product is actually called but my local industrial supplier has it in stock . Which reminds me i need to get a few meters for some machines i have restored . The diameter is about 7 mm but comes in 3 sizes . In case you were wondering i have fitted an after market roller on the foot but had to lift the foot up so it would fit . Pretty easy to do but if your original roller is fine then just leave it .Because it would be of much higher quality than a new one . From memory i got some spare bobbins and bobbin case on ebay and they were listed as a singer 31K20 . The 31K15 looks the same but the bobbins are not as deep .Both machines are built on the same basic body but have a few differences the bobbins and bobbin case being one of them . If you have any problems sourcing them let me know and i will go through my purchase history and take some measurements and see what i can find for you Regards Tas