AlZilla

And of course now the video is private and the pics in the other thread are gone. Both threads should be deleted.

Since it appears the plan is to make a way to mount the disk (plate) and spin it to burnish the edges; why not mount it, spin it under power and hold the round file against it to make the groove? Unless I'm misunderstanding what's going on here.

The gunk might give way to saddle soap. I'd test it on an inconspicuous spot to be sure it won't discolor that white. The needle holes, if you find a cure, patent it and you'll be a billionaire. Maybe hand stitching back into the same holes with white thread would make them less obvious.

I like Brands. I also like that hides with brands often get a discount. I try to feature brands somewhere on items I make. I think they add depth and character. And also distract from my man-made flaws ...

I would do 2 layers with the inner layer having the grain side in. Like a lined holster or belt. But that's just me

Strength and function in that belt are coming from the leather. The suede is just for looks and/or comfort, as far as I can tell. So, 10mm total thickness without suede is going to be stronger than 10mm that included some suede in the mix. By "Sole Leather", I'm guessing they mean horse butt. 10mm thickness of horse butt would be a pretty strong piece of leather!

Since the 211G probably doesn't have any more presser foot clearance than my 111Ws, I'd think the 3/4 would be enough. I have a 3/4 servo and 3/8" clearance under the presser foot. 5/16" (20 oz) fits easily. With the (torque increasing) speed reducer, it will run slowly through veg tan. That said, I have a 111W set up with the same servo and NO speed reducer. It struggles sometimes. (EDIT: 20 ounces seems like a lot as I'm typing it for some reason - But I've measured the total clearance when I worked on the machine and I've stuffed it damn near full plenty of times. I'll verify it next time I sit down at it. If I've got something wrong, I'll post a follow up.)

Oh, I've been watching ... Kind of spendy, but it's a nice piece of equipment.

I think it's really a question of which tools you're finding lacking in your own work. For me, I'm finding my one, small inexpensive edge beveler lacking, so that's one thing I'm looking to upgrade. I also find myself cutting a number of straps, so I'm half heartedly wondering if I should look beyond the wooden strap cutter and my Jerry's Stripper.

Well, it does say 1.5 tons ...

I'm guessing you mean a Cobra class 4? If so, any of a number of people, including me, could give you the various dimensions of the pedestal stand. Mine isn't a Cobra, but I'd bet the stands are all close enough to the same. @dikman may have a point about the rigidity. The base is steel plate and the healthy sized post is welded to it. There must be a lot of torque on that lower weld. You could end up with something closer to a carriage for civil war era artillery ... But, if all you need is the measurements of the stand, I'd go measure mine for you.

Most impressive.

The safety clutch has to be tripped.

This page seems to compare a couple of different versions: https://www.industrialsewmachine.com/webdoc1/consew/733.htm

How about marking on the suede side instead of the finished side?

In case anyone is curious, here's the patent. US1009749.pdf

@suzelle, you pulled me out of the fire! And now I need to find one of these machines! Here's a post with a pic: https://www.victoriansweatshop.com/post/show_single_post?pid=1326099274&postcount=9774&forum=501752 A little quick searching and it looks like National made these and may have badged them for other makers, but the search is on. Thanks for that great lead! EDIT: Here's a video showing how the bobbin works. She talks about it for about 3 minutes starting at 2:10. Close to the end of the video she's sewing with it. The tension arm certainly does have a long swing. Quite a fun looking machine.

What about the CB3200? It says it goes from V69 to v346. Seems like that would cover the whole range. Might need to get a narrow feed dog and throat plate for the smaller stuff.

Depending on which domestic machine you have, it might do some garment weight leather, or even pierce some heavier leather that you can then hand sew. This thread will confer a Master's Degree in Leather Sewing Machines:

It sure does say #14. Other places say #18, which correlates to OP saying he used v69. It seems like an interesting machine for it's intended purpose. They even promote it for "Bag Making", which it should handle beautifully - up to a point. It seems @Novalee's use case is just over the tipping point.

Well, you guys have been kind enough not to beat me up for my brain fart ... No idea why the part about looping around the entire bobbin escaped me. I've worked on enough of these (and explained the process to rookie sewists) that I knew better. Feeding the bottom thread from a full spool while keeping some kind of lock stitch will be the next great leap forward.

It's $150,000+ USD with free delivery to America. But's it's on sale from almost a half million! I ordered 2.

OK, I'm seeing the flaw in my thinking. It needs to get around the whole spool. Well, you guys saved me a trip to the patent office, anyway ... :

Isn't the loop all top thread, though? As far as I can tell, the bobbin thread just pays out as needed, no back and forth (or up and down), like the top thread. "EDIT: So, obviously, this machine is using a standard bobbin setup. The question still remains, why couldn't the hook be fed from a full size spool located away from the bobbin/hook area?"

I just don't know why the bobbin tension device would care where the bobbin thread itself came from - a little bobbin spool right next to it, or snaking in from a large cone a foot away, at the back of the machine.