AlZilla

Wow. Pretty glam stuff, all the way around.

Bumped into this one tonight. @Stewart, I recall that you've stopped leatherworking, but we're still enjoying your posts. Hope all is well!

That may be as easy as anything. The top piece would then have to be shrunk a little and the stitching holes re-aligned. I've worked with a couple of hat patterns like this one and the hole count is critical. I've used 1/8" craft foam sheets to mock up patterns. This looks like a perfect use case.

Well, that's similar to the way I've seen sewing patterns altered. Did you try just making a straight across cut? It looks like the top half is now wider than the bottom but that just makes no sense ... Definitely following this one.

That is a really nice and well crafted item. Very inspiring.

@Timmmm I deleted your duplicate, identical post. You must have hit post twice and it had no replies anyway.

A quick search for "20x1 sewing machine needles" will turn up plenty of choices. One of my machines came with about 50, so I'm pretty well set. I think the difference is about 1/8" in length. One trick is to snip a small piece of refrigerator magnet and insert it into the hole in the needle bar. Essentially, what you did.

Congrats on a pretty cool old machine. I have a couple of New Homes that look identical. If memory serves, mine date to 1890 something and the other to 190x something. You may luck out and use standard sewing machine needles, or you could need 20x1. Mine use the latter.

FEIW, I haven't had bonded nylon take stain. I think you're going to have to experiment with your specific thread.

I'd like to buy one unassembled and put it together.

Based on that, one very common machine to study up on would be a Consew 206RB5. There are tons of other machines in that range that are almost the exact same. Singer 111W, for example, to name just 1. Most will sew up to v138 thread, some 207. With some luck, you could score a used machine in the $500 range. New, you'd be about 3+ times that. Plenty, plenty of other types and styles of machine would fit your stated need. This is just a suggested starting point to maybe focus your search.

Yeah, a lot of us start out thinking we can use a domestic. And, to a limited extent, sometimes we can. 2 years later, I have 5 industrial machines... <sigh> Clear out a space and start saving your pocket change.

Go to the stickies for this subforum and read The Type of Machine You Need To Sew Leather. After that you'll have a much better idea what you should be looking for. I'll add that shoes are a whole different animal to most leather working. Oh, and in addition to your primary anticipated use, consider your heaviest anticipated use. A garment machine, for instance, probably isn't going to be any use for a knife sheath. EDIT: actually, here's a thread asking about that very machine. Might be worth reaching out to that member for their experience.

The fold over will push out of the way. That last bit is certainly stitched by hand. Look at the stitches - you can see evidence at the very top on the front view. Also whatever is going on about 5 stitches above the screw on the back view. No question in my mind.

And does the flap lay over the welt stitch?

Here's a thread about it's cousin, the Pfaff 28:

Assuming that Euros and USD are pretty close and that it's not totally seized, I'd be in my car now. Looks like a fun machine.

The stitching conundrum is interesting but at the end of the day, it's just a piece of leather and many members here could duplicate it. Another respected gun leather maker has often opined that current wait times are only because manufacturers aren't willing to expand and fill orders in a timely manner. No offense intended to Sparks or anyone else. It's still just leather, thread and dye. I'd agree with the other poster that the stitching is inconsistent on the subject holster. I'd like to have it in hand to figure it out. EDIT: I think most of the stitching is done and then the last bit, from about 6 stitches above the tension screw, up and a few stitches around the corner, are finished by hand.

I wonder if neatsfoot oil would restore it? That stuff really soaks in there.

Early on, I found that wetting the leather before dyeing gave much better results. Then I also discovered that dipping the leather is usually far superior to daubers or cloths, etc. Dipping doesn't really take a ton of dye, just a shallow pool in a wide enough tray. This is just what I've found success with. You may find differently. I've also been using mostly standard Fiebings dye. My next purchase will be the pro series. I've had a couple instances of surface cracking to reveal undyed leather not far from the surface.

Maybe I pushed the envelope a bit ...

This thread says needle feed, jump foot and some of the parts are unique to that particular machine: If the relative wanted to give you $800 to take it off his hands, maybe it's a nice coat rack.

@ibrahim You'd be better off starting a new thread rather than tagging in on an old one. You'll get more attention. Also a pic or two so people can actually see what's going on.

what happens if you wind that top tension in? It looks like it's unscrewed pretty far and the look of the stitches seem to confirm it.

Assuming that the start position is the same every time you ask for a single stitch, it seems to me that the problem has to be a bad controller. If it starts in the same position every time and your foot tap is exactly that same every time, then it should do exactly the same thing every time. I wouldn't think the position sensor would have anything to do with the speed. Maybe a loose wire causing an inconsistent signal ... ?