Mablung

Ha, the handle at least is in good shape, that is true. Got the offer accepted on the other one, so we'll see how that one does, once it arrives. Looking forward to dialing in the edge.

I made on offer on another one that is in much better condition, with only very minor rust damage and a very clean edge. Figure I can fix any issues with an edge like that more easily.

That bubble sounds like it needed to be burst. Thanks for the advice, and I’ll run from that one. I was having a tough time judging how deep the pitting is. That’s much too deep for that knife to be much good.

It’s the rust damage and evident abuse that gives me some pause. Those nicks look fairly deep. If I can get the edge smooth again, great; I can deal with rust pitting, as long as it doesn’t cause me too many issues with things like skiving. I’m just wanting to make sure I’m not signing up for more frustration than is truly necessary.

This is the knife. Bit grainy because I had to crop it down to reduce the file size, but there it is. It’s beat up but seems redeemable.

Thanks for tagging him. Meant to and forgot. I've got some pretty coarse grits I use to restore edges. I redid the broken points on a couple knives made of O1 tool steel, some pretty tough stuff. I guess in theory the high-carbon steel in the old C.S. Osborne knives can't be too much harder.

How difficult would it likely be to restore the edge of a vintage C.S. Osborne round knife? I found one on eBay that is quite old, so likely with the better steel of the old ones, and has a pretty dinged-up edge. It's a good price, and while I'm pretty handy with a set of waterstones, I'm concerned the steel might be hard enough that I would have difficulty restoring it well and end up wasting my money. I would be doing all the edge work by hand, as I don't have a grinder.

I'm not Dwight, but I recently tried dip-dyeing a knife belt pouch I made for my dad. I got a lot less rub-off when buffing the surface than I do when applying with a dauber (which is what I usually do). I'm pretty confident that I'll not get any after I seal it.

Gross negligence is required only in certain contexts, mainly professional contexts in which the professional owes a heightened duty due to the nature of the activity but is also afforded the additional protection of a heightened degree of breach of that duty before the professional can be held liable. Gross negligence is not the general rule, however. "Regular" negligence, if you will, is generally all that is necessary (in addition to causation and damage, of course) in the context of premises liability actions.* * None of this is legal advice, just observations about principles of tort law generally applicable in all US jurisdictions. US law on trespass to land is very similar. The volitional act to enter the property of another is sufficient to establish liability. That doesn't stop people from trespassing, of course, under the mistaken idea that they can do so on land or abandoned buildings as long as they don't hurt anything, but it's still technically a trespass.

@kgg Did this accident occur in the US? If so, which state? The law relating to premises liability varies from state to state, although there are some generally applicable patterns and principles.

The ones I have seen have been 8/9 oz. Thicker would be too bulky, thinner would offer insufficient protection. I probably wouldn’t go below 7 oz.

Wow, that's thick. Apprise us of how it feels on the foot. Not at all likely you'll feel gravel through that (to me that's a detraction, but I wear quite comfortably shoes the sole of which consists of a piece of 1/8" crepe rubber topped with a 4 oz. piece of oil-tan). The suggestions are much appreciated. I'm going to keep my eyes peeled for that Renia product, as I'm starting into making shoes (simple, minimalist designs, for the moment) so I can replace the soles easily).

…giving it a considerable advantage, as far as pleasantness to use, over Barge and Tanner’s Bond. May have to try that stuff out once I run low on Tanner’s Bond.

What happened with your first belt pouch? That might give you an idea for how to adjust your next pattern and make one for the belt rig you showed. That one doesn’t appear to be wet-molded, or at least not to a significant degree, so it would be reasonably simple to figure out the dimensions, based on the diameter/width and thickness of your tools and the thickness of the leather plus stitch lines plus belt loops. Might take a few tries and a few hacked-up pieces of craft foam, but you could make a pattern for that.

Huh. I may need to give another thought to whether I dismiss that technique. I'll try it when I have time and take a look at whatever knife edge I choose with my jeweler's loupe. (Used to use the thing all the time when sharpening blades, but I've gotten out of the habit.)

Go for it, and please share your results. You may very well prove me wrong. I’m interested because I use Arkansas stones regularly, and cleaning them up and periodically washing them with soapy water starts to get a little old.

You’ll clog it up if you do that. Something other than oil can be used, but a very light oil is best.

Hm, sounds promising. That technique might have more currency than I thought.

Books, Journals, and Photo Albums Went and found the link.

As I like to say, "Whatever floats your goat"—and if that's using the pull method, go for it. I've tried it a bit and found it interesting. It does upend a bit of the other prevalent advice about checking for the burr, etc., or at least it seems to me that it does, so that will take some readjusting. I could be wrong about that, though, so test it out and see what works for you.

Glad to be of assistance! As a matter of fact, I've been thinking about how to make something like this for my wife, as her Bible binding is starting to come apart and she wants a new carrier to replace her old textile one. Haven't gotten into the design yet, so I'll be interested to see what you produce. ETA: One of the subforums has a section about books, journal covers, and similar items. There are a ton of threads discussing Bible covers; they'll have some really good information that would help you in all aspects.

He says that, but I don’t think that’s true of necessity. I’ve gotten some frighteningly sharp edges by pushing the edge forward. He also does by pulling it backward. Just be consistent and you’ll be fine. German bladesmiths used to sharpen straight razors with a circular motion; done properly, it works. Denny’s argument has some truth to it, but it’s not the definitive guide to sharpening.

Are you asking which one (hard vs. soft) will be easiest to put into a leather cover? Hard is usually easier to put into something—less give that will crinkle inside the cover flaps. It is also thicker, though, so you'll have to account for that when measuring and constructing the cover.

Are you talking about something similar to the jigs sold for sharpening swivel knife blades, or something else?

Sounds like my tutorial on sharpening is entirely superfluous for you, then, lol. You’ve definitely got sharpening straight and have been doing it much, much longer than I have. And you have the right touch to sharpen it like that. If you can sharpen your round knife that well, then you’ll have no trouble With getting your trim knife that sharp, with a little bit of adjustment technique. My birthday is coming up, so I think I will get my wife to get me a better round knife. Was thinking of one of the CS Osborne ones that still seems decent.