Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'tools'.
Found 215 results
-
We manufacture unusually stamps and indivudualomu hinged blades for special order. You can choose any stamps and knifes we will make them during 3-4 days
-
We manufacture unusually stamps and indivudualomu hinged blades for special order. You can choose any stamps and knifes we will make them during 3-4 days
-
I've never posted so i hope i do this properly. I saw on the internet, a hand cranked tool/machine for punching slots for lacing. It automatically advanced for even spacing. I can't find it now (oh the joys of gray hair). Does anyone know if this is available? Does it work well? (or is it a filament of my imagination....) Thanks. Robin
-
Greetings, I'm a NEWBIE & am looking for recommendations on a good starter kit. I mostly want to get into making cases, holsters, sheathes, purses & bags, and MAYBE do a little stamping/design work... I DONT want to run down to Tandy Leather and by a 'Starter Kit" that I'll outgrow in a short while - I'd prefer to by quality tools that will last & am asking if anyone could make some suggestions on what I should get first, or if there is a 'kit' out there that is of excellent quality & has what I need to really get started - Thanks, RussInVegas
-
We produce on request indivudualomu hinged blades. The price of a knife 190- $ 250 depending on the complexity of the order. Shipping costs $ 10-15
-
I am from overseas and will be in Arizona for the summer and was hoping to stock up on quality tools for leather carving and tooling. I was wondering if anyone could recommend somewhere in Arizona where I might be able to buy tools from someone who is really skilled in tooling. I brought some of my work with me hoping to have a professional see where I can improve and what tools I should buy to help improve my work. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated! Thanks!!!
-
$90 Sold as a lot, US shipping included. Great deal, the punches alone retail at $40/ea. Everything works properly, I've just upgraded some things and no longer use these tools. Great for someone getting into leather crafting. PM if interested. CS Osborne slot punches: 3/4" & 5/8" CS Osborne round strap end punch: 1" CS Osborne knife (needs sharpening) Tandy mini & maxi hole punch sets (complete) Tandy edge beveler size 2 Splash tool for tubular rivets Misc line 20 snaps, nickel Misc segma snaps, nickel Misc grommets & eyelets, nickel
-
I have a great stamping tool, but it's too shallow. I love the design, and a pressing machine wouldn't do it. It needs more depth. It's steel, like the basic craft tool from tandy leather factory. The only other thing I can think of is using a swivel to cut the lines and then stamp them for the deeper effect. It's for a cousin I don't like, so I'm not willing to do that. Maybe on another project I would. Yeah, I definitely would. But I would still want a deeper impression. I know there's another way to do this I don't know about. I'm not great with metal. The only thing I really have is a dremel for my dog's nails, but it worked pretty good on a flathead that was too wide. My dogs really don't like it so I've found other uses for it. Treats are no match to the sound of a vacuum sounding engine. No matter what size.
-
I picked up a couple of these tools of eBay and have decided to make some new blades, as I can't find a supplier. I noticed that there is a lack of detailed info online about these things and thought I'd try to compile some. Just a quick FYI for anyone working on these things, the screws used are all 5/32 slotted flat machine screws or 5/32 slotted fillister screws. Finding good quality replacements, if you have to, isn't too hard - especially online.For making new blades, Johnny Kleso from Sawmill Creek suggests using 1/32 or 1/16 thick steel, with 1/16 being less likely to bend and is more economical.I've measured up the blade thicknesses and other dimensions of a No. 3, 6 & 7 to start the research to figure out how to make replacement blades.I have a No. 8 on the way and will add that later.No. 3 - Width 13.02mm Thickness 1.63mm Length 86.0mmNo. 4 - Width 13.02mm Thickness 1.63mm Length 78.4mm (From Shedbound)No. 6 - Width 13.02mm Thickness 1.63mm Length 74.0mm (From Shedbound)No. 6 - Width 13.02mm Thickness 1.63mm Length 86.0mm No. 7 - Width 13.02mm Thickness 1.63mm Length 84.0mm (This blade is in poor condition and could actually be longer) - Can anyone help out on this one? If anyone here has one of these, please consider pulling it apart, taking a few measurements, and sharing the info. Regards, Craig J. Brain Canberra
-
The illusive Secondary Bevel, what and why is it? The secondary bevel is another bevel on an edge that is at a greater angle of incidence than the primary bevel. Huh? Lets say you sharpen a tool edge to 25°, which as we know for an opposing bevel edge (bevel on each side) will be 12 1/2 degrees per side. This will be a pretty sharp edge and will cut leather well; but it is a delicate edge and will require a lot of care, stropping primarily, to maintain it, still not too much of a problem for leatherworking knives, but it will eventually wear out, no amount of stropping will bring it back to bleeding sharp because the edge isn't there anymore. This is the same for any edge, eventually it goes, and you have to put a new edge on the tool. For the same thickness of blade, the "ramp" from the body of the blade to the edge will be longer the less the angle if incidence; 25° has longer ramp than 30°. We can take the dull 25° edge and change the angle of incidence to 30° with very little removal of metal and still have a sharp edge that will have more metal behind it. Of course, if you keep adding 5° every time you sharpen, you will eventually approach the geometry of a cold chisel (not terribly sharp, but tough as nails). So what we do is use that 30° bevel (15° per side) and "ride" it back with subsequent sharpenings. You will have to remove a little more metal with each sharpening as you "ride" the edge back, the heel of your bevel will increase each time you sharpen the secondary, but a whole lot less than going back to the primary. Eventually it takes as much or more time to sharpen the secondary bevel as it would to just go back and sharpen the primary, or the secondary becomes in effect the primary (obliterating the original primary), and at this point you can add another (the "new" secondary) bevel at a higher angle, or drop back and sharpen at the original primary angle. The nice thing about the secondary bevel, is that oftimes it requires using only a fine and then extra-fine stones to attain the edge because most of the work has been done when the primary was established. This technique is used quite a bit when sharpening chisels and other working tools that may be sharpened a couple of times a day. They often are micro-beveled at a degree or two increase over the primary and another degree or two over the last secondary when a new edge is necessary. Other knives, especially head knives and other weird profiles are difficult to sharpen this way, but it can be done, although the increase of angle between the primary and secondary may have to be somewhat greater when hand sharpening. I don't use the primary/secondary system on head knives. I sharpen to a convex (teardrop) edge using a slack belt (although there isn't a lot of slack) and finish with leather or a sewn buff and .50 micron compound in the strop or the buff. Art
-
I tried to call Gomph Hackbarth today and got a recording that he has stepped away for health reasons. Has he stepped away from making tools or selling tools? Has anyone had a recent contact with him?
-
Ciao! Let me introduce updated version of our piercing/marking rounded corners template for leathercrafters. thanks to special form of holes it fits tools up to 2.4mm. you can use your awl, ball pen or just thick needle with only one template. just fix the template and keep the tool as close as possible to narrow part of hole and you have a perfect marks or stitching holes. we also made intermediate guides and 90 degrees lines for better and more presized positioning of the template on leather. material - transparent acrylic sheet, cut and engraved with cnc laser machine. available in two versions - for 5 and 6 stitches per inch. looking forward for your comments! thank you.
-
Everyone one has there own idea of the best and highest quality tools and there are different reason that make certain tools better than others. Steel type and materials used, Design, and price. Whats in your tools box? Name the best tools and who makes them that you appreciate and why! Round Knives, Mauls, Stitch groovers, Sewing Awls, Scratch awls, Burnishers, Compass, Stitch chisels, prick chisels, Edgers, Stitching Pony and Clam, Hole Punches....Etc. Stitch Groove- I just Bought a Versa Groove and when comparing it to tandy's, wow its night and day. Round Knife- I love my LW round knife especially the back cut portion Slowly building up my Barry king collection, very satisfied with the quality of beveler's and sewing awl Maul - the BK slant maul is my favorite, the grooves in the head are perfect I have started accumulating various array of tools, started out with tandy and slow started to buy higher quality tools. LW, BK, Osbourne, Chuck Smith, Blanchard, etc. This all Started when try to find a quality V-groover and I still havent found one, anyone know a high quality v-groove? -
Howdy I'm sort of new to leather working. I've made a few holsters here and there, and I understand most of the basics. I'm wanting to get into tooling leather, and I also need a few other proper tools like a round knife. I'm also a college student, so money is a little tight. I'm hoping to get good enough to start selling some of my work, and use the money from that to help fund more tool purchases. Right now, I'm just wanting to get a good, basic set of stamps that will get me started on tooling, and a good draw knife for cutting out holsters (#70 or #71?). Any suggestions? Thanks. -Tex
-
My name is Thijmen, and i'm trying to get started with leatherworking. i'm mostly interested in making functional items. but i can't figure out where to buy tools and what tools i'll actually need. so far i have: a curved leather needle (half a circle) a knife that easily cuts through leather. a set of chisels and gouges hole puncher tongs i also read about needing a mallet but, would a clawhammer with a rubber cover do (with that cover it'd pretty much be a rubber mallet in function) things i think i still need: an edge beveler piercer something to make grooves in the leather a steel ruler a self healing cuttingboard a marble slab (i plan to get a marble cutting board) materials i have: 2mm thick full grain leather which was supposed to cushion expensive couches. i have 2 garbage bags full of this mostly half skins. black thread suitable for leather (thats all i know about it) and a handful of buckles, buttons and similar things things i plan to make: wallets (seems like a good starting point) bags/backpacks (when i'm good enough) if i get good enough i also plan to make my own boots but that will wait untill i'm good enough in a few years the problems i have: is there anything i'm missing? and where should i buy tools. a steel ruler or a cutting board isn't hard to get but an edge beveler or groove maker is harder to find. thanks in advance
-
I have these tools I bought at an auction a while back. I need help identifying what their use is. I do mainly saddle and harness work, so if they are for shoe/boot work, they are for sale or trade. I haven't found a use for them yet but Maybe if I knew what they were for, who knows ??? That awl haft is solid iron. Why would you need a haft made of iron ?? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
-
I made a slicker/burnisher this date with a left over piece of Birdseye maple. Reading some of the forums by people that make the power burnisher I see they use a natural oiled wood that are superior to native woods. As I don't have access to those woods and am kinda proud of how this one turned out, Any suggestions as to how I should finish this one. I have access to danish oil, mineral oil, beeswax and a beeswax mineral oil combo. Any suggestions welcome
-
This is my first post, so here's a little organizer I just made out of a knife block I purchased at the thrift store for 75 cents. I think this is a pretty neat way to sort out your space for an incredibly small amount of money. I had a little bit of chip-out at the bottom due to the low speed of my brace and bit, but now I have an opportunity to add some tooled leather to cover that little mishap! I was also pleased that I was able to utilize a bit of the leather I recently inherited from my grandfather to attach to the sides. I'm just starting out and don't have much room currently, so it is very necessary to maximize the space I do have. Hopefully this was the right thread to share this, thanks for taking a look! -Red
-
Has anyone use a tool, or made a jig, for cutting leather circles but with beveled edges? I've read the existing thread about cutting circles: good info and helpful pointers to tools. But I'm making leather cup, from Stohman's "The Art of Hand..." photo attached and I'm have trouble getting accurate circular bevel cuts. Thanks.
-
Well, I've been tired of using an inferior edge creaser and can't bring myself to splurge on the Vergez Blanchard model, so I've decided to make my own.... Pretty simple solid brass and beech wood design with a knurled thumb screw for adjustment. Works like a charm.
-
Hi all, I have the "other" kind of V-gouge from Tandy, the all-metal one. The staff all recommended the other one with the wooden handle but it was out of stock and I needed to cut gouges in a product and ship it right away. I have this one: http://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/craftool-adjustable-v-gouge-2 And it sounds like everybody loves this one better: http://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/craftool-adjustable-v-gouge I see why this gouge is problematic. The blade has over 1/8" of play up and down, and with the blade sharpened on the outside, it naturally pushes itself up and out of the leather. With the blade adjusted far enough out to cut 5oz leather clean in half, I can depress the blade all the way back up into the handle. I spent about an hour fiddling with it, and found the design to be fundamentally flawed, but perhaps fixable. The adjustment knob has a keyed post that pushes the back of the blade up and down, and the blade has a notch to fit over the post. To make sure there's enough tolerance for the blade to swing at different angles, there's a huge gap between the top and the bottom. I'm away from my shop today but can post pictures tonight if it helps. For now what I've done is punch a hole in a piece of 5oz leather and wedge it onto the post inside the notch on the blade. This stiffens the play considerably, but also makes the knob difficult to turn. The blade still has enough play to pop up out of the leather sometimes so getting a clean gouge requires multiple passes. Does anybody else have this tool, and is there a trick to making it work well? Is it a well-known "take it back and get the other one" kind of thing? Thanks! Dave
-
Hi I'm new to the forum and new to leatherworking, but its fascinating to me already. I've made a list of hand tools I'm about to buy and need some guidance to make sure they're good. Are these a good choice? What else might I need? My first project is going to be simple, a wallet. Then I'll make a tablet case. Here are the tools/dyes/etc. from Springfield. I'm thinking I might order some from Osborne. 21-251001 Cement,Contact,Barge 2oz 34-01 Gum Tragacanth,4oz 34-211002 Dye,Fieb,Oil,Dk Brown,4oz 34-261201 Finish,Carnauba Cream,4oz 34-222001 Finish,Tan-Kote 4oz 88-145 Awl,Haft,Stitching,#145 011-811600 Folder,Bone (Plastic) 011-809100 Overstitcher,Set,Sz 5,6,7 28-3003 Punch Set,Mini,Heavy Duty 011-808200 Gouge,Adjustable,V,Metal,SLC 011-807400 Groover,Stitching,Adjustable 88-54 Blade,Awl,Stitching,2" 011-807603 Edge Beveler,#3 130-119500 Needle,EZ Thread,10pk 130-001 Needle,Harness,"00"Med,2pk 97-5000 Thread,Waxed,AsstColors,5pk So anything you would recommend? to change? to add? Thanks!
-
I am looking for a way to clean, store, and preserve my tools (especially knives). My first thought is something like Rem Oil, and I am curious if anyone has any thoughts on this. I store my round knife in a leather sheath, but I am worried about rust spots developing over time. Immediately something like Rem Oil comes to mind, being that a person would use that to clean and store firearms. My only hang up with this is that the residue may harm the leather when using the tool, something like causing it to not accept dye or finish. Obviously I wouldn't soak the blade in the oil, but give it a good wipe down like a person would with their guns. If there are no unwanted effects on the leather, I can see this being a great way to care for all metal tools. Any input on this would be greatly appreciated. Mark
-
I am a new member to this website, and also a fairly new leatherworker (about 5 years or so). Admittedly this is also my first forum post of any kind. Let me start by saying that I think this site is a great idea, and has been extremely helpful to me (which is why I decided to sign up). The amount of knowledge so freely shared here is amazing. I can't thank everyone who contributes enough for that. The topic I propose is this (forgive me if I am doing this wrong, or this isn't an intended purpose): From reading through posts, I have noticed a lot of tools, techniques, tricks from multi-talented individuals. What I propose is a discussion about innovation. I do not have the means or the tools to produce new and innovative tools, and quite possibly techniques. I would like to get a discussion going about tool and technique innovation going. Perhaps someone has an idea for a new tool that would be useful, or a technique that they would like to try, but can't because of limited means (no machine shop, lack or the tools to try it). What I see coming from this post is this: New ideas: A tool that someone cannot create but may prove useful that someone has the ability to make, test and ultimately gain use from, hopefully manufacture at some point. Seemingly new ideas: Something that seems fresh, but someone has tried before, but didn't quite work as expected. Perhaps they can provide some insight as to why. A technique using current tools: A what if question, but maybe someone doesn't have the tools to do it, but would like to know what might happen if they did. The results that may come from it. I apologize if this post is too wide reaching, feel free to direct me to a post that may have already covered this (I tried to look), or flag it as needed. To start it off, I bought a roller beveler from Jeremiah Watt. I like the idea, but wondered if a tool with interchangeable wheels, like embossing or overstitch, with different patterns (crosshatch, lined, smooth, different angles/sizes) similar to the multiple beveling stamps available would be something useful. The problem I see, on top of it not being quite the same as a fully stamped piece, is depth and contrast. Any thoughts, contributions, criticism is welcome, and I appreciate it. Mark (I promise any future posts will be shorter)
-
We really do listen to your feedback... Please take advantage of our FREE SHIPPING offer now through October 9th. Free standard domestic shipping on all orders over $75. Stock up for winter. You must provide promo code LWSHIP at time of order. Anyone can purchase and/or register for an account with Ohio Travel Bag. If your order is over $30, you can take advantage of wholesale pricing*. If you need only a few items, we have retail pricing and no minimum order for you . We have over 7,000 items in stock, ready to ship to you today. Our new website will launch within 60 days. Can't wait!!! *A taxpayer ID or vendor license is not required by OTB to receive wholesale pricing. Sales tax may be applied if a valid Sales Tax Exemption form is not on file. Check out many new items here: http://www.ohiotravelbag.com/NewItemCatalog.html Keep posting feedback and replies. I love hearing from you.
