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Hi Guys I am recently having a problem that drives me insane. I dip dye all my stuff with Fiebings Pro Oil Dye that is diluted with denatured alcohol to 40% - 65% of the original strength. This usually works great. But i when i dye thin (around 3 oz) vegtan, it sometimes looks like this (see image). funnily enough, i have never had this problem with the exact same leather in 5 oz or above. Any ideas what the problem is? -
Hi all, I have been coming here for help for a while now but this is my first post. I know you will all be able to help. I have a business selling leather dog collars, and I recently got some startling feedback from a customer. It seems that she bought one of my collars and after about a month of use it was very badly stretched, discolored and brittle. She apparently has a very active dog and it gets "heavy outdoor use" including being worn while swimming sometimes (not sure how often) and bathing. She did oil it several times to keep it conditioned, but still had very poor results with it. You can see from the before (not the exact collar) and after pics what it looked like. The black collar in the after pic is not one I made, only the undyed one. Here is some info about the construction of the collar: Leather is 6/7oz (I have since switched to 9/10oz) double shoulder from Tandy 1" wide with beveled edges No dye used, finished with 3 coats of Angelus Acrylic Finisher Good coating of Neetsfoot oil applied after finisher I am basically wondering what I can do differently (other than increasing thickness of leather since I already have done that) to make my collars last better. I have been in business for 4 years and have never had feedback of this nature before, so I don't know if it was the use of the collar or the production that was the problem. I have noticed that my undyed collars often feel more pliable than the dyed ones and have been wondering if the dye itself perhaps has some preservative qualities. Should I be using a neutral leather dye on collars that are not to be colored? Any info or tips you all could give would be appreciated. -
Hi All! I've dyed some purse shoulder strap edges black (not veg tan), let dry 24 hours, and then have burnished with saddle soap. The edges look alright, but I tested with a little water and buffed with cloth to make sure that nothing would come off on someones clothes and sure enough, black. So, my "water resistant" dye is a bust? or did I make a mistake by using saddle soap? I want to make sure I get happy customers...not customers that need me to buy them new shirts. :/ Noted that I could try to roll edges, but I'm not quite at that level yet! Any help is much appreciated! -
Hello, I'm a noob who wants to make a satchel. I got a quarter shoulder hide and some soft pigskin for lining. I still need the basic tools. I have some black Feibings dye that I used on some suspender button attachments for pants. I also got some coffee color Eco Flo from Tandy. What's the main difference in these brands?
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So I have been looking for a hide that I can make belts and will dye really nicely with black, mahogany, dark brown, etc. Any info would be awesome! Thanks! Austyn
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Do I dye my leather before or after tooling? I've been dying after is this right?
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So I have been using Golden Fluid, like many of you do, and I really love them. However, I'm intrigued by the Createx paints for two reasons. 1) They have the iridescent and pearl colors which golden fluid doesn't have. 2) They say to be "automotive" grade, are resin based, and heat set on textiles. I've heard many say that Golden is the better brand and better paint but are they just as durable as the Createx claim to be? Which would be the better choice for items that are used outside and have to be pretty durable? I would still be putting a leather finish over the top of the paint once dry so I'm not expecting the paints, themselves, to be durable without a protective coating. Has anybody tried using both? Are they compatible with each other if I wanted to use the pearl/iridescent paints by Createx WITH the Golden paints? Also, spirit dyes. Does the alcohol base evaporate out after the item is dry? Would I be able to paint on top of the dye once dry? Thank you! -
I got roped into leatherworking a few weeks ago by stumbling into Tandy's videos by George Hurst on Youtube and said "This is for me!" I'm so glad I did! I ran out and bought their ultimate set and a pile of other stuff and books (ok maybe too much? lol but I figure I'll learn as I go along). Anyway, I made a few coasters from the kit following the instructions and then got ready to do the dyes. I chose to do what he did - use super shene as a resist on the center flower and the border. The only problem is it did NOT come out like his. The resist did do SOMETHING... but not nearly what it did in his video I'm still satisfied the piece looks good for a first time noob but I want to get it like his and I followed the directions to the letter (or so I thought). I applied a generous coat of super shene with a brush. I let it dry over 30 min. I applied another coat. I let it sit overnight to be absolutely certain it was ready to resist. Using a dauber (like George Hurst did), I generously applied the same dye he did (Hi-Lite in Briar Brown). I then used what he did, a folded up paper towel to wipe off the excess. See the results in the photos. His has TONS of contrast and mine looks like the resist hardly did anything. I then tried the same thing with Eco Flo block and got the same results I did with super shene. I am disappointed and don't know of anything I did wrong unless his results are a camera trick or some kind of Voodoo I don't know about yet and was left out of the video?! Please show pity and help the noob! PS: In his youtube video on making leather cuffs - he uses same two chemicals and his brown is WAY darker than mine and his resisted area is WAY lighter. UGH HELP! -
Hey, folks. I am looking for some insight on dyeing leather blue (a dark, navy blue). I use Tandy's Professional Waterstain for the majority of my dyeing, but I've noticed that the blue fades to a odd pale greenish color over time. The dye will be coloring the covers of longstitch books. My question is: Is there a blue dye/stain that any of you have found that doesn't do this, or do I simply have to deal with it? Thanks! - Lauren
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I am having trouble getting even color coverage on my dyed pieces. I am using Angelus spirit based dyes thinned with denatured alcohol and I use a wool dauber to apply the dye. I always apply a VERY light coat of neetsfoot oil and let it dry before dying. I have no problem on narrow pieces where the dauber can cover the whole width in one stroke but on 1" and above I am having trouble because of having to make multiple passes. I have my dye thinned to the point where I can go over several times and get the color I want, but usually if I thin the dye too much for more passes the final color is watered and weak. Any suggestions? I don't have an air gun, and would much rather stick with hand applying the dye. here is a picture of the kind of streaking I am getting. It is not horrible but I really would rather have the color nice and even over the whole piece. Thanks in advance!
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Hi there, I just dyed and finished a little keychain; when I went to bend the leather around the key ring, cracks developed (picture attached). Does anyone know why this happened? I used the Eco-Flo Pro dye line and the coorisponding matte finish. Super new so feel free to throw out any ideas! Thank you!! -
I need your expertise! What color is this? (ok, I know it is yellow) but where can I get such a bright shade of yellow in dye? I have tried Fiebing, ecoflow, and even the new waterstains from Tandy, but they are all very...darker. My second question is: would I need to block dye with a Brown antique to get this effect? Thanks in advance!!
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I have been doing some searching through forums history/archives in regards to painting & staining leather. I am doing some painting on leather and my question is about the staining. I've been using the Eco Flo All in One stains and more recently started using some of the Fiebings water based dyes in dark brown and chocolate as I prefer darker leather. My question is, how do I go about painting on those? I've noticed, especially with my white paints that they end up with a brown "tinge" to the white paint. In order to get rid of the tinge, it seems like I have to build up many many layers that possibly wouldn't be necessary if I could get rid of that tinge. I've tried deglazing my leather after staining but in order to get it "clean" enough to get rid of the tinge effect, I have to deglaze it so much that it really dries out the leather and gives it a gray haze. I've just been making some items for myself like spur straps, bracelets, etc. So they need to be able to flex and such without the paint cracking/flaking/peeling. So far I've had great luck with my paint but just seem to struggle with the stains & dyes bleeding through my paint. I would really like some advice on what I should do and would certainly appreciate the help. I have seen some people that paint their design on the unstained veg tan and then are able to stain after. I would imagine they would have to be using some kind of antique to do this as a liquid dye/stain wouldn't be very even if applied carefully around the design with a brush or wipe off the sealed painted area. I could really use some advice on this and would certainly appreciate any and all suggestions!
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Whats the difference between these three? Also, I'm graduating (only took a month) to dyes from Eco flow. Correct me if I'm wrong, I think the steps are: oil, dye (Fiebing), and one of the three. I think I,ve read that some use Neatlac after oiling for more blended dyeing results Can I get a recommendation on which one I should be using for something that may be out in weather. As always, thanks for your support! -
How do I achieve a light oil finish on my tack? I love the way it looks but have never been able to find a dye light enough to achieve the look I want. Any step by step pointers would be fantastic! I am also trying to find a place to buy thick leather to make 1 ply headstalls, breastcollars, etc. I have some light saddle skirting but it is just too thin and I have to make them two ply. Any suggestions on where to find good leather for this would be great. Of course as I am just starting out making tack, the smaller pieces I can find that still work are usually the cheapest so the better Thanks in advance! CW -
I have been using baby food jars for storing batches of mixed dyes but the lids do not tighten well and I have evaporation and storage issues. I usually only mix small batches but if I had a more reliable bottle I might mix more. How do you store your dyes?
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I wet my leather for burnishing the edges, and now I want to dye it, and I don't know how long I should wait for it to dry before proceeding. I'm going to use black Fiebing's Oil dye. (This is my first project -- a dog collar.) thanks -
Good Day All, I have recently been obliged to use Fiebings Institutional Dye instead of their Spirit based dye. I achieved excellent results by dilution and then finished with Institutional Dye Finish. What I would like to ask is the following: What does the "Finish" do? I spilled some dye on my fingers and it took ages to wash away. I ran some test pieces under water with no effect. So why do I need to apply the finish? Any information will be appreciated. Thank you. -
I'm having some major issues sealing a piece I've dyed with the Eco-Flo Scarlet Red color. I made sure to buff between each layer of dying, and buffed before sealing with Satin Sheen, but after 3 coats of Satin Sheen, color is STILL coming off quite a bit. The amount of residual dye on my daubers is not diminishing. This is a piece that will be worn on bare skin, and I certainly don't want to potentially stain skin after sweating or in minor rain! Has anyone else had issues with red in particular? I've never had issues like this with any other color I've dyed with before. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!!
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Hello all, my name is Brandon and I am still a newbie. I have a problem that I would like to have some help with. I was asked to make a black leather skeet pouch. The pouch came out great first of all. I might have done everything wrong though. I cut out all the pieces and punched the stitching holes. I laced it up with a double loop stitch and then I dyed it. The first coat made it look purple and you could still see some of the raw leather peaking through so I decided a second coat would be good. I read somewhere on here that you dye your project after you are done stitching, so thats what I did. Normally I only use brown dyes and have never had to wipe off any excess. I just put on the coat of Carr and Day and Martin Belvoir leather balsam. So this is what I did with the black oil dye. Unfortunately after applying it with the tan sponge it comes with, it was totally black. This worried me since the skeet pouch will be on a belt and rubbing off on this guys pants. So I got out some rags and started buffing the pouch................well I'm about 15 rags in and it is still just coming off. I don't know if it is because the balsam is releasing it or it just has that much extra dye on it. Please give me some advice. Should I just keep buffing and use a different sealer?
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Hey everyone, I've done some searching but come up with mixed results. Just wondering if anyone has suggestions for the best combo for painting and sealing on top of Fiebings Pro Oil Dye? I'm cutting, tooling, punching holes and then dying my pieces black — passing them off to a friend to do some painting on them (using a full range of color), and then she's giving them back so I can seal the paint and stitch them up. I haven't done any painting, acrylic or otherwise, on leather yet so I'm wondering if anyone had and product or combo recommendations given that I'm using the pro oil dye... Thanks in advance! -
I'm about to attempt adding dye to vegtanned leather for the 1st time. I'm having trouble finding info on when to dye the leather. Is this to be done after the tooling is complete and if so will there be any chance of losing the stamped details? Also should the leather need to be deglazed to accept the dye? I'm starting w/ pre-cut leather wristband blanks and will be using Fiebing's Grey Leather Dye with hopes of achieving a simple solid color. -
I recently ordered some Feibings white after being told by those at Tandy that no one sells white dye. I thought it was a new product or a great find, but when I tried to thin it with reducer it seemed to clump up. When I used it straight from the bottle it went on more like a paint than a dye. Can anyone help with this? -
Hey guys, as a fairly recent beginner of leather works (but man it does turn into an obsession pretty quickly huh?) I was hoping i could ask some advice abut dying. Here's the problem: i was making a guitar strap and wanted to keep the pattern in the original leather colour and dye the rest black, but as predicted the dye bled into the pattern area. I've read quite a lot about block-out but no real explanation as to how it is done, can smeone help me out here? Are there certain dyes that works with certain block out methods etc? Also after the failed attempt i ended up painting the pattern section with a very watered down acrylic paint (thinking behind it that if it is a bit wetter it will absorb into the leather better and not just sit on top). Is there anything i should do to treat this paint to prevent it from flaking or cracking or should i not worry too much? Below is a picture of how it looks so far, would love your input on this! Many thanks, /milton
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I'm working on making some leather clutches and wanted to know if anyone has any experience in tie dyeing leather... I can't seem to find any tutorials or tips online. Hopefully someone has some experience/knowledge!I've attached a few samples of the look I'm trying to achieve. Thanks!
