Search the Community

Can somebody recommend a good book for a beginner. Really would like a book that explains all the different tools and when to use them. Not really ready for carving and stuff , more of good tips on how to get nice finishes and stitching advices.

I am looking for some tools for belt making. I probably can't afford a whole lot at this time, so individual items are welcome.

I'm looking for some used strap punches..just need 1/2" up to 2".. OR can someone tell me what other tools ,etc I can modify to use for the same? Thanks

Our friend Barry King generously allowed us to share his explanation of factory vs. handmade tools. Brian asked me to talk a little about "Custom/Handmade" tools vs "Factory" tools. I can go on and on with comments and reasons, so I may add a lot after initially typing this. Here goes: 1. The biggest difference is the impression you will end up with. Most handmade tools are finished by hand. Meaning: contoured, polished and filed, by hand. The key being the filing by hand. This leaves the tool with sharp lines and ridges as opposed to a Factory tool. Factory tool: Usually stamped out from a master die. This can be done cold or under heat. The disadvantage is the lines in the die are then rounded, not sharp. This is just one of the reasons for a poor impression. 2. Steeper angles and sharper tools are possible cutting by hand. No need for the tool base to be fat to handle the stress of the die strike(Factory). This is on the face I am talking about, not the actual tool shaft itself. A Veiner is a perfect example I am thinking of. 3. Finer detail by hand. This goes back to the hand filing. The Factory tools normally won't have fine lines because the die strike process distorts them. 4. Plating. MOST Handmade tools do nat have a plating process applied to them. If a tool has a chrome plating(Factory) it will usually start to flake after a period of time/usage. Some Handmade tools have a plating, but usually it is not a true "chrome" plating, therefore won't flake. 5. Material. Most factory tools are made from mild steel, except for the new Tandy Pro Line. Most of the Handmade tool makers are using stainless or tool steel. Wayne uses stress proof and has his reasons for that too. NO one material is perfect for all, but we all have our reasons for using what we do. I made my first tools out of nails, still use a few of them once in a while. Now, all stainless for stamps. 6. Different angles available by making tools by hand. Bevelers are the 1st thing to come to mind, followed by Basket stamps. Those that have use both, Factory and Handmade know what I am talking about. You don't have to hit the good tools nearly as hard because the angles are steeper and the tool is sharper. When seeing someone's work the is very intricate, just bet they are using a handmade tool. Tandy is great to get a person started, to see if he/she likes the craft, but don't seem to work well enough to get a fine, detailed look. These are just a few reasons, I know I am missing a bunch, but I will add more after awhile, as I am sure others will too. Barry King

Hi, I'm an upholsterer specialising in leather and teach at university. I dabble in leatherwork at my home workshop and have been asked to do a 6hr block teaching "leather stitchwork for accessories. Would anyone be willing/able to help me with a lessonplan which is to include making as well as induction demo for students from the Anarchy Studio These are Yr 2 & 3 students equally from Textiles and Jewellery (Group Size 30 but we can identify how many spaces for each event). Some students are complete newcomers but all confirm that they're eager for more experience and advise. Students now have a good range of existing design ideas and sketchbook processes which you could use to drive sessions/ direct their making. Students would ideally be able to learn and practice one or two processes by the end of the day, and know enough to be able to later return independently to the area to practice further. If you are able to help (I really hope so!), I would be very greatful. This will be for just a 6 hour block

I have recently tried to get into leather working. i wanted to get a very small stitch on my bags (as i have seen many profesional companies using such stitches) and i wanted to know if this is possible. I have been researching into Hermes and their bags and they seem to be using very small pricking tools and stitches. However when i went to Tandy Leather the guy there told me to instead use a 4 hole punch because if i didnt the bag wouldnt be strong enough. Any Tips?

Got an email from Tandy today, like happens every Friday, and their new line of tools is now available. Included in the new offerings are their two new swivel knives with either 3/8" or 1/2" barrels. Anyone got to see and touch these in real life yet? Do you think they will be able to compare to the likes of Barry King swivel kinives? Would like to know if they are going to be a suitable upgrade from their basic models. I won't be in a Tandy store for a while, so any early opinions will be appreciated. JJ

Advertised this machine in the past but no longer able to find on the site. I have a new COWBOY 4500 SEWING MACHINE, as shown in Leathrcrafters and Saddlers Journal and offered by Toledo Sewing Machine. Has all of the listed accessories and much more that I had purchased for the machine. Large spools of thread, needles, etc; and will all be included. I am not able to pack and ship but machine may be picked up in Opelika, Al., just off I-85. Asking price is below the price machine is being sold and with free extras. $2500.00 cash takes it home. Wish I had discovered an experienced teacher in the area, to teach me how to use the machine but no luck around here. I think I put the cart before the horse when I made the purchase. Had no desire to to attempt to take a stab at making a mess of things with such a great piece of machinery so it sits on it's pedestal and waits for a more courageous individual. If you make the purchase, please plan on having assistance with you as I am not physically able to load or lift anything these days. disabled senior,senior. Hope this is a machine for someone. Ray

Hi, all. I have a Hansen string cutter and also a rounder. They are the original style Frank made, and have a base with drilled holes which you then bolt down onto...whatever...I bolted them onto a board and then would clamp the whole unit to a work table. (I see that the new ones have a built-in clamp). It also has the original style of locknuts (not the wingnuts). For me personally, I think the old style is much superior because you can REALLY tighten it down rather than just finger-tighten, but that's just my preference. It was used very gently, on goathide only, for 2 years and then has been carefully stored ever since. It has a lovely patina. (I think!) As you all probably know you can get a new splitter off the Hansen website for $445 including shipping, and the rounder for $235 including shipping, so that's $680 for both. I'll sell my set for $440 including shipping if you live in CA, NV, OR or AZ, and $450 if you live elsewhere. Thanks for your interest. The best way to reach my is by direct email which is westernartist@gmail.com and my name is Jeanne Miller.

Hi friends, newer leather worker here. I've made about a dozen projects so far and haven't loved any rivet/snap setter combination yet. I was thinking about getting a Tandy setter but as I am starving student and just a hobbyist, I felt it was a bit of an extravagance. That said, do you think an old, vintage setter would do me any good. A quick search on ebay turned up a few such as this http://www.ebay.com/...=item3cccdde71e Do you folks think it would be worth the money and the time? Thanks. -Clayton

I am looking to make some Belts and other small leather items. I will be doing some simple stitching, punching holes, setting rivets and snaps, and cutting leather. What tools should i buy to get started? Are there any good kits out there? Any info would be appreciated.

Okay, I've been poking around the site now for a while and have learned a ton, but I also have lots of questions. Like... Should I be using a stitching awl or stitching chisel? Until now, I've been using one of several chisels (6, 2 and 1 points) I got from Tandy on everything I do. I've been using my awl (I got from Tandy) just to widen holes as I stitch so I can pass two needles through at the same time. It pointed, but far from sharp like what I hear about Bob Douglas awls. What am I missing here? When should I be using an awl or the chisel. Getting Stitching Holes to Line Up? What's the trick here? I think I've experimented every which way and cant say I've found the "right" way yet. If I punch holes first, they're less likely to lineup perfectly. But If I glue first, then punch holes, I have to go back over it with the dye again. Using the groover make it even more complicated and difficult to get things lined up. Should I always use a groover? I understand the groovers are used to recess and protect stitching lines. I've been doing it on EVERYTHING regardless of how it will be used because I thought 'that's just how its done'. After reading through the forums, I'm not so sure. Should I stop using the groover? Why/when should I use an overstitch wheel? I've been using it to layout holes around corners and curves. Should I be using it for something else? If it helps... I primarily have been working with leather weights between 3oz and 9oz to make variety of large and small cases/bags, iPad sleeves, and wallets. I've been stitching everything hand using Tandy needles and what I think is 4oz waxed nylon thread. Any help and suggestions you can offer are appreciated. Thanks. - Odin

This is your opportunity to pick up new or rarely used and like new tools at a great price. I started out with less expensive tools until I knew I was going to stay with it and upgraded to high end tools. If your a newbie, you can get them at a great price. I listed the catalog numbers so you can look them up or let me know what you are interested in and I can send you pics via email. TANDY Craftool Rawhide Mallet – 2.00 Craftool 4 –in-1 Awl set 3209-00 12.00 Craftool Saddlemaker’s Groover 8069-00 6.25 Craftool Adjustable Groover 8074-00 5.00 Lacing and Stitching Pony 3132-00 9.00 4 Prong Diamond 8067 2.00 Al Stohlman Large Round Knife 35014-00 25.00 - new Safety Beveler 3001-00 1.00 Craftool Strip & Strap Cutter 3080-00 7.00 Adjustable V Gouge 8082-00 9.00 Craftool French Edge Skiving tool 88080-00 4.50 Craftool Keen Edge Bevelers – Old #126, size 2 8077-02 5.00 Craftool Keen Edge Bevelers – Old #126, size 3 8077-03 5.00 Craftool Keen Edge Bevelers – Old #126, size 4 8077-04 5.00 Al Stohlman Swivel Knife 35049-00 30.00 - new Al Stohlman Swivel Knife Blades-1/4” angle 35051-02 9.00 - new Al Stohlman Swivel Knife Blades-1/4” fine angle 35051-04 9.00 - new Stamps: 1.00 ea. unless otherwise noted · A103 – Seeder · A104-background · X514S-basket weave · B200-beveler · C770-camouflage · V407-veiner · U855-mule foot · U853-mule foot · U851-mule foot · BW2-barbwire, lg · BW1-barbwire, lg straight · BW3-barbwire, lg corner · BW2-2-barbwire,sm · BW1-2-barbwire,sm straight · BW3-2-barbwire,sm corner · CRS-3-cross · 69016-00-1/8” Rope Border Set 10.00 Plastic Tool Rack 8123-00 1.00 Craftool Rivet Setter 8100-00 1.00 Sewing Awl 2.00 WEAVER CS Osborne Edgers: #125 size 1 15.00 #133 size 2 18.00 CS Osborne Strap Punches: · #0150 English Point – · 3/8” 15.00 · ½” 15.00 · 5/8” 15.00 · ¾” 15.00 #150 Rounded end – · ½”16.00 · 5/8” 16.00 · ¾”17.00 #151 Bag or Oblong: · ½” 12.00 · 5/8” 12.00 CS Osborne Sharp Point Knife CSO79 3.00 Don Carlos Knives –Trimming, 9-3/4” overall 67-4210 17.00 - new Y-KNOT LACE Precision Lace Beveler – Small 70.00 new will sell for 35.00 - SOLD Precision Lace Beveler – Large 90.00 new will sell for 45.00 - SOLD

I got new leather knife today. this small knife is from france leather tools maker.