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What Exactly is an EPS? Cobra Steve, Leather Machine Co., explains what an EPS (Electronic Positioning System) is, and how it can help you do a better job sewing leather. Be sure to watch the video too!

I live in Vancouver BC where the cost of renting space has gotten so bad I have to close my studio Here are the machines I have for sale, if anyone lives nearby it might be worth a trip! All prices are in CAD$ Leather Machine Co. Cobra class 4 premium. $3500 Various feet and needle plates, drop down guide, custom flat top table attachment, and complete vibrating binder setup! Servo motor and speed reducer and table included. Leather Machine Co. Cobra NP-4 Skiving machine $1300 various attachments, table and servo included. Pfaff 335 cylinder arm. $1500 Servo motor with needle positioner. Currently mounted on custom table but I will include the original table. Gemsy 335 copy $1000 works great! It's set up with a custom flatbed sewing attachment but i will include all accersories for binding as well. Has servo motor with needle positioner but you will need a table top to mount it on. Will include the custom table it's currently mounted on as well. Photos: vancouver.craigslist.org/van/for/d/vancouver-industrial-sewing-machines/7723026253.html

Hello Can anyone explain why a top and bottom feed skiver is better than a bottom feed only? Can a top and bottom feed skiver do everything that a bottom feed only skiver can do...but more? If a Leatherworker.net Member is skiving mostly higher temper Herman Oak 3-4oz (1-2mm) leather...can this work be done on a Top and Bottom Feed skiver or should this individual use a bottom feed only skiver. There is not one sewing machine that does everything...Is this also true for Skiving machines? Do I need both? Your assistance to the questions above will assist me in deciding on which machine to purchase and will ultimately determine the success of my business and the health of my sanity! Many Thanks in advance. Silverd

I've decided to bite the bullet and get a sewing machine, but I need some guidance. I don't picture getting into bags very often so a cylinder arm isn't needed...yet. I was looking at sailrite for a bit, but keep getting directed to Cobra. My question is can a class 20 cleanly stitch thin pieces of veg tan, say 3-4oz? And same question for the 18. Also if you have any recommendations on other models to look at please let me know. Thank you.

Hi folks! My husband and I have been long time Juki users and wanted to venture out into Cobra land when we were needing a 2nd machine. We bit the bullet and got a Cobra Class 20 because everyone just raves about them! But apparently we are set in our ways, and the Juki fits our production style better. (lots of thread changes, easy to swap out bobbin cases, my husband and I just like the work flow better.) So now we have this barely used, Cobra Class 20 in our studio sitting unused. We've had it for less than a month, and have only used it a handful of times. (4? 5?) We realized we weren't going to love it after the first few tries, and immediately sourced a Juki instead. It's in excellent shape. Almost new, and the dust hasn't even settled yet. No lint or fuzz or built up. It comes with everything it arrived with, thread tree, extra bobbins, tool set, drawer, LED light. We're eating the freight costs, but we'd like to get $2200 for it. Paid close to $2700 with freight. We're about 45 min north of Detroit, up by Milford. Non smoking and pet free studio. We'd really love to see it go to a good place and get the use it deserves! We changed out the presser foot, which is what's shown in the pics, but it will come with the original. From the manufacturer's listing - The Cobra Class 20 Heavy Duty flatbed industrial stitcher is one of the most versatile machines on the market today! The Class 20 has a triple feed mechanism similar to the Class 4 allowing you to sew up to a full 1/2 inch of veg leather and handles thread sizes from 46 up to 207. Perfect for sewing chaps, bags and wallets. Servo motor and speed reducer for extra torque. Includes 28 LED work light, needles, thread, thread stand, extra bobbins and tool kit. I also posted on FB marketplace, for transparency. Forgive me if I left anything out. I haven't been on forums in quite some time Thanks for looking!

Nothing special, haven’t been around here lately, so I didn’t wanna come empty handed. A couple things knocked out last night.

COBRA CLASS 20. Leather & Biothane sewing machine. Compound feed walking foot. Sew up to 1/2 inch of leather, webbing, coated webbing, etc. Thread size 46 to 207, 135×16 or 135×17 Needle System. Perfect for sewing chaps, wallets, belts, , book-covers, bags, sheaths, canine & equine equipment, tactical equipment, etc. Servo motor and speed reducer have full torque even at slow speeds. Extremely low hours. Always kept inside air conditioned house. Excellent condition. Includes regular & smooth plate & feet, drop down edge guide, 32 bobbins, and a lot of needles. Selling because I don't use it. Pick up only Scottsdale, Arizona. $1,900.

I may have posted this here when I finished it some time ago. Sorry about that, but this is about it coming back too visit this weekend with the owner. I’ve been making a few things here and there and no matter how long I’ve been doing this, I never ever get bored or tired of the craft Because of stuff like this. Old dude was out and about early on a beautiful Sunday grinning ear to ear and retelling all compliments he had gotten at the gun show. It’s so cool to know people think you have some magical power and consider something you made a valuable possession. When I’m long gone from here, I’ll have done my job and left people wondering… who in the heck made this….

Finally got me a rattlesnake. From Nevada of all places. Here I am in Deep South Texas surrounded by scrub brush, and can’t find a rattlesnake to save my life. The diamondbacks online have really gotten pricey, in 1996 they were 75$, now a decent skin is 200+. I’ve worked with every permitted skin on the planet, but rattlesnake is Handsdown the coolest I think.

I’m new here, I hope I’m in the right place. I have a small leather patch hat company and saw this in many videos and it seemed like a dream. Upon arrival the class 26 machine worked smoother than imagined but this machine is not for me. Due to some prior major injuries I can’t bare to sit at the machine longer than 30-45 mins. This machine might have 1-2 hours of run time and in perfect new order. *Pick up only* Upstate, SC Asking $2,100 This is $300 off retail and you save on the ridiculous $400 shipping from the manufacturer.

Brand new Cobra Class 26 machine for sale. All original paperwork and tools included. Only been used for about 1-2 hours. Works perfect , it’s just not the right machine for our needs . Asking $2,000 , local pick up only , no trades

Using up years of scraps… ladies seem love these bags, so imma keep making em.

A buddy wanted a sheath to take on vacation. I didn’t know this till the day he was leaving. I had 5 hours, start to finish. Had to make the lace too. Wasn’t much dry time allowed for anything, but it got done and he left for Mexico to surf.

Mr. Peanut and Kermit the frog both knew the risk, but they went there anyway..

I am new to using sewing machines and have an issue with corners not being held tight. I'm assuming it's a tension issue possibly but I'm not sure. I figured someone here will know exactly what the problem is. I'm using a Cobra Class 26 cylinder arm machine, 138 thread, 24 needle.

•King Cobra 4-25 Premium Package with all accessories. No positioning system. $4,250 •Cobra Class 3P Premium Package with all accessories. No positioning system. $2,800 •Weaver Master tool hand operated strap cutter $1,750 All machines are new and have never been used. I bought them a few years ago with the intention of making lots of things but that did not happen and I had to move them into a storage unit a couple of months ago. I also have a Cobra Mp Burnisher with stand that is for sale $475 and a Master tool EZ edge strap beveler $300. These two pieces I would like to sell with a sewing machine as a set. I tested them so I cannot say they are new. Everything is available for local pick up in Los Angeles/Orange County. Thank you so much for looking

Hello! I purchased a leather sewing machine about 4 years ago and it came with a brand new COBRA TN-400 servo motor. I haven't used the machine basically since i purchased it but now I cannot get the motor to turn, no matter what I try. All the info I have is how to change the speed and rotation of the motor The motor will not spin on any of the settings No wires are loose inside the motor Any tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

MAINTENANCE AND TIPS FOR THE COBRA CLASS 3, 4, & KING COBRA, PRO 2000, ARTISAN TORO 3000, 3200,4000, Cowboy 3500, 4500, TECHSEW 5100, SEW PRO 44L, KINGMAX, MASTER LOCK, JUKI 441. AND OTHER 441 STYLE MACHINES Thread 1) Make sure that the thread you are using is not dry, old, or damaged by the elements. Keep thread in a plastic bag to help protect it. Make sure that the thread does not untwist, if so, then the bonding agents have evaporated or weren't very good to begin with. Threading 2l Make sure that your machine is threaded correctly. Breaking thread, skipping, fraying the thread, and tension problems will occur if your machine is threaded incorrectly. Take up lever 3) The take up lever has 2 functions: to give the thread enough slack so the hook can carry the thread around the bobbin case, and, after the hook releases the thread, allows the thread to pull up into the leather. Check spring 4) The check spring maintains tension on the thread as the take up lever returns to the top position. Needles 5) The needle must be installed correctly. Make sure that the long groove is on the left, and the scarf is on the right. Needles are tempered, so after usage, they lose their temper and become weak. A weak needle will bend or break easier after losing its temper. When the needle breaks, it could cause damage to the presser foot, needle plate, feed dog, or shuttle hook, so make sure that you change your needle every 12 hours of actual sewing. Also, make sure that you use the correct size needle for the thread and thickness of leather that you are using. lf you are using too big of a needle, then at times, the thread will travel up and down inside the hole that the needle punched resembling a tension problem. lt is all relative. The heavier the leather, the heavier the needle and thread. The lighter the leather, the lighter the needle and thread. Tensions 6) The thickness of the leather that you are sewing will dictate the amount of tension that you will need. You should loosen the tensions for lighter leather. Your tensions work in conjunction with each other, so you should loosen or tighten both tensions when adjusting them. You should never loosen or tighten more than 1 full turn at a time. lf you run into a problem with your tension and you are not sure which way to turn or you just can't seem to get your tension back where they were, then it is time to recalibrate them. This is a simple task. To re-calibrate your tensions, remove both knurled tension nuts completely, then put them both back on the machine until they just come in contact with the tension spring and stop. Sew a test piece. You will probably find that the stitch is toose, but this is what we want. You are now able to adjust your tension by tightening them both 1 turn at a time untilthe stitch pulls up. You may also experience bobbin tension problems. lf you have tightened the bobbin tension as far as you can, and stillthere is not enough tension (the bobbin thread is visible on top of the leather), you may have to clean out under the bobbin case spring. After hundreds of yards of thread pass under the bobbin case spring, microscopic fibers of thread, along with leather dust and other debris, start to collect under the bobbin case spring causing the spring to spread and give false tension. lf this is the case, then you will have to remove the spring, clean out the debris, and may have to bend the spring to put more pressure on the thread which will give you more tension and allow you to be able to adjust your bobbin tension as well. You may have to purchase a new bobbin case spring if re-shaping your existing spring does not work. Shuttle Hook 7) lt is very important that your shuttle hook is in excellent condition. lf your hook has burrs, or scratches, then you must buffthem offto make your hook smooth again so the thread will pass over the hook with ease. lf your thread is fraying, then a burr is most likely the problem. The thread will pass over the burr and then get caught, causing a couple of the strands to break. You should run your finger nail over the top, sides, under, and at the point of the hook when feeling for burrs. The shuttle hook travels in the race assembly. You should clean out the race assembly frequently. The race assembly must be clean, smooth, and oiled to assure the best sewing results. Needle Deflector 8) The needle deflector is located in the shuttle hook area. lt actually deflects the needle to protect the point of the hook. The needle will brush against the deflector moving the needle slightly to the left of the point of the hook. lt also keeps the needle straight, assuring that the loop made by the thread is consistent. Presser Feet Timing 9) Both Presser Feet should rise to the same height as they alternate walking. The procedure to assure that your presser feet are walking correctly is to turn the hand wheel towards you until the point of the needle is even with the plate or feed dog. At this time both presser feet should be down. The needle, and both presser feet should meet at the plate or feed dog at the same time. lf this is not the case, then loosen the adjusting screw and make the adjustment. The adjusting screw is located on the far right side on the back of the machine. lt is an Allen Head screw. Presser Feet Height 10)The presser feet height is determined by what you are sewing. For the most part, the height is set at medium to high. This will allow most applications to feed (whether thick or thin) without getting caught on the feet and impeding the motion of the feed system. lf you are manufacturing one item, like belts, where the thickness is constant, then you would set the height to accommodate the belts thickness. This adjustment is in the back of the machine, and is sometimes referred to as the "banana slide" adjustment. Hook Timing 11)To set the timing for the hook, first remove the needle plate and in some cases, the feed dog. This will allow you maximum vision. Set the stitch length to zero. Put a new needle in the machine. Raise the presser feet to the up position. Turn the hand wheel towards you untilthe needle is in the lowest position. Continue to turn the hand wheel untilthe needle comes up 3/16" , this measurement is critical. At this time, the point of the hook should be even with the needle and approximately 1/8" above the eye of the needle, and in the scarf of the needle as well. To adjust the shuttle hook, remove the round cover plate on the front of the machine located in the lower right hand side. After removing the cover plate, look inside the machine and you will find the black Allen Head bolt that holds the hook driving shaft. You may have to turn the hand wheel to get a better view of this bolt. Loosen the bolt and you will be able to physically turn the shuttle hook while it is in the machine. Turn the shuttle hook to the correct setting, 1/8" above the eye and then tighten the bolt. This may take more than one try. Tip: A quick way to check if your machine is out of time is to lower the needle. Just above the screw that holds the needle in place, is a hole that you can look into and see the top of the needle. Loosen the screw, then drop the needle until it covers half of the hole and try sewing. lf the machine sews properly, then you will have to advance the shuttle hook about 1/32" .lf it still does not work, the lower the needle again, until the top of the needle is even with the bottom of the hole, and then try again. lf this corrects the problem then you will have to advance the shuttle hook about 1/16". lf your machine still does not sew properly, then retime your machine based on the instructions above. These adjustments may vary depending on the machine. These instructions offered in this tutorial may not be absolute, because there are other factors that could come into play, but are a good starting point. Thank you, Steve For more info, please call: Leather Machine Co., lnc. 1-866-962-9880

Hello Everyone, Here is a link to the first video in the Cobra Class 4 video series. Hope this helps and each week a new video gets posted. Setting up your Cobra Class 4 Sewing Machine

Built my first backpack. Completely stitched on a Ta-king 29-18. With American alligator from the man I’ve looked up to for the last 30 years, Mr. John Fong. Pretty cool to build something with exotics that I got from the man I followed long before social media, every two months hoping he had a piece in the LC&SJ. I read everything he wrote, and put it to work. It’s paid off for me for the last 30 years, and keeps my lead times long. Big thanks for the skills you lernt me Mr. Fong, see you in San Fran soon…

Had a few pieces of equipment in storage hoping to open shop again but we're moving out of state and it's easier to sell than take with. Selling both a Cobra NP-4 & Cobra NP-10 Dual Feed skivers. Great shape, plenty of life left on the bell knives, servo motors for quiet, controlled use. Cobra NP-4 - $875 Cobra NP-10 Dual Feed - $1,000 Located in Dallas, TX. Will not ship. Also selling, Kwikprint 86 and Kwikprint 64 Heat Presses, Consew 206-RB sewing machine

Easy to make and can’t make them fast enough.

Selling my Cobra class26 with flat bed attachment and flip down roller guide. Local pickup in Whidbey Island, WA or delivery to pretty much any part of western Washington. Comes with original manuals, foam molded shipping box for the head, and some 138 and 207 thread in brown, tan, and black

Picked up a cobra 29-18 from LMC. Couldn’t be happier with the machine or the service throughout the sale. Delivered without a scratch…