Search the Community

Hello all, I am looking for a cobra class 4 or equivalent Cowboy machine . I am located by Olympia, Washington st, and am willing to travel to pick it up. also looking for a skiving machine but I want to get a sewing machine first. thank you John

Should I have just said a Juki clone? Long time lurker, first time posting here, so please be kind. I know @Frankqv has a nice setup for his Cowboy 3200 for sale with press, drill, and hand skiver, but I am really looking for something with a 7/8” capability. You know what they say…don’t buy a machine that is already at your max, because you’ll need something bigger. So true… I currently have a Cobra Class 20 that I like, but I’m being asked to fix tack that is quickly getting beyond the machines capacity. I’ve scoured the usual sites, but have yet to find one close enough that would be less expensive than buying new. This is something I do to help out a local stable that teaches kids to ride, so I fix their stuff for free. My work is ugly, but it does what it is supposed to and I’m getting better. Would love a Cobra Class 4 to match the 20, but at this point I’m not picky! Please let me know if you have something that fits the ask and you are in Central Florida! Ocala, Orlando, Tampa. Thanks!!

Hi. I just picked up a nearly new Cobra Class 4 that has only this one right presser foot. I am looking for any unused from your premium package or a source for various types of feet. I am also looking for the edge guide or suggestions for a drop down. Thanks

Purchased it three years ago from Bob Kovar, with intention of making knives sheaths (I am a knife maker) and knife rolls, but ended up not using it. Machine is available for viewing and pickup in New Rochelle, New York 10801. Shipping freight will be about $200 to a home address, $135 to a business. Will deliver for free within 60 miles. Comes with a stitching guide. Would consider a reasonable offer. Thanks for looking. Marko

Hi all, I was doing some spring cleaning/maintenance on my Cowboy 4500 today. I got everything dusted and cleaned, back on, put together, and oiled. I turned it on to test without a needle/thread installed and it ran great, the only problem is it runs so great that it runs even when I'm NOT pressing on the foot pedal. I don't think I changed anything, but I suppose it's possible I may have bumped or adjusted something unknowingly while moving the machine. -I can push lightly (about half way) on the pedal and the machine will work normally with the speed reducer function. When I let off the foot pedal, the machine will stop as expected. ***The problem comes when I push all the way down on the foot pedal and then let off, the machine keeps running (needle, feed dogs, foot moving etc.) like it's on the slowest setting. It also makes a fairly obnoxious squealing noise while moving very slowly. I tried moving the link on the chain up and down to change the amount of slack and tension- that doesn't seem to be it. If it's too tight it will run too fast and I don't get the speed reduction. Too loose and it doesn't matter. I even had the chain completely unhooked from the pedal and it kept running. I've narrowed it down (I think) to the black plastic arm on the servo motor that is attached to the foot pedal by the chain. It's not going all the way back up to stop the movement of the machine. I can gently push up on it momentarily with a finger and the machine will stop normally. If I let off the pressure with my finger, it will keep running. I also can apply a little more pressure and the whole black plastic arm will "click" or "snap" back up to a locked position and the machine will remain off. It will start up and run normally when I press the foot pedal, but again when I put it all the way down and release it will not stop completely. I have to manually push this arm up to stop it completely. Again, that's why I thought it might be the chain tension, but had not luck when moving the link and tension. Is there anything you can think of that would fix this? What could I have done to cause it? Could the problem be coming from something else? This machine is only 2 years old, hasn't seen excessive use, and it is well taken care of. I bought it from Toledo Sewing Machine and have never had any problems with it before. I'm really hoping I don't have to replace the motor since it's so new. I took the cover off the servo motor to see if there was anything obviously wrong and couldn't see anything. I'm not super mechanically inclined, so I thought I'd start here with the experts before doing anything. I didn't want to start chasing one problem and create a handful of others. Any help you all could provide would be greatly appreciated. Fingers crossed it is something simple and I can get it back to normal. Thanks in advance, -Hannah

Hi, I am gonna switching from #277 to #138 bonded Nylon thread with my Cowboy 4500 and wanted to see if the needles DYx3 size #20 will go with that thread. Has anyone experience with #138 thread and size #20 needles? It's for thinner leather sewing like 1.7mm leather 2 or 3 layers. I believe #277 thread which I am using now is to thick and the needle makes to huge holes into the leather when using it on wallets, Holsters, Smartphone cases and the like were I use at max 1.7mm 2 layers leather from cow or pig (which is sometimes very soft).

Hi all, I am selling all of my equipment, for now here is a list of the machinery that I have. Cowboy 4500 with table, servo motor, lots of thread and needles, inline presser foot, double toe presser foot and like new. $2000.00 Highlead GC0618-1-sc compound walking foot, servo motor, lots of different feet, needles and thread and like new. $900.00 Highlead YXP-18 bottom feed skiver, clutch motor, like new. $900.00 Singer 31-20 roller foot tailors machine, servo motor, needles and lots of thread. $325.00 Adler 30-5 patch machine $500.00 I will sell this equipment at the listed prices individually or will take $4100.00 for all. I also have a ton of hand tools as well. Full shop at a bargain. I am a non computer person and do not know how to change file sizes to put the pictures I have on here. Location is north central Florida near Lake City. Not interested in shipping as I am too old and tired so this is a pick up offer only. Best way to get with me with questions is by telephone or PM and please do not text as I use a flip phone. Number is 443 553 8365. If you offer up an email address I can try to send some pictures that way. Thanks, Ken Hopkins

Got back from my honeymoon to find my new Cowboy 4500 delivered and waiting at Central Supply on campus. Got the machine assembled and started sewing yesterday. I manage the Grazing Behavior Lab at the University of Maine, and build GPS tracking collars for livestock. Up to this point, I have been struggling and powering through with hand tools and my Consew 206RB1. Not anymore. I have a my Weaver Rivet press and Cowboy 4500 to do the heavy lifting. This machine effortlessly sews up these heavy duty collars. The next machines on my wish list are a clicker press and the Weaver rotary punch for punching buckle holes in the GPS collars. Big props to Bob Kovar at Toledo for working with the University purchasing depart (very convoluted process). This winter, I am collaborating with researchers in Australia to develop a youth program for teenagers in rural communities to improve digital literacy and promote technology in agriculture. Essentially, we want to introduce students to modern precision agricultural tools and software to give them a jump start to either their career or college studies. They will learn about GPS, GPS research in livestock, building tracking collars, and competing in a poster competition by presenting research performed with the GPS collars they made. Quick question - My hand wheel is pretty hard to turn by hand, so I have to give it a little gas on the pedal to turn it. How hard/easy should it be to turn this hand wheel? I can adjust the pulleys and belt, but I don't want to go adjusting things before I know what its supposed to be like.

I've had a Cowboy 4500 for five or six years and I'm totally pleased with the machine. Recently, I've had a few questions regarding the use of the holster plate; this might be the subject of an additional post. During the last few days, I've watched A LOT of videos on Youtube. A sincere thank you to the companies that have taken the time to produce excellent and informative videos. I have two questions: My machine has a vertical rod (about 4") on the top. It was my understanding that is was necessary to route the thread through it before the adjustable tension disks. When watching the videos, I noticed that most machines didn't have this rod, routing the thread directly from the arm, above the thread, to the tension disks. Thoughts? Timing: Some videos have you move the stitch length to the maximum, while others have you set to zero before checking the relationship of the hook to the needle. Which is best/correct? Thanks for your help. Jeff Chosid

Hi all, I'm wondering what the max thread thickness is for the cowboy 4500 type machines. I know they are rated at 415 max thread, but has anyone successfully used a thicker thread? Also wondering about the make up of the thread. The usual thread is twisted 3 strand nylon or polyester. Has anyone tried braided thread like the Tiger Ritza or maybe even artificial sinew, I guess the split fibres might be a bit tricky with this option. thanks Nick

Hey you all with my cobra4 craigslist find I picked up earlier this year, I didn't have to tune much at all with it and kept with the 277 thread size though replaced with poly. I did find replacing the old spool of thread did everything I had issue with in the stitch tension issue, off n on every 3". I'm positive it had a catch in the spool somehow so not being any particular type thread thing. So anyway getting a few more chances to put some leather under it, I have found with some earlier adjustment. Here goes, that even though I have top tension backed off and flush with thread end, seriously. Lower tension knob a thread from being flush, the machine with some tuning sews good with what I been messin with 5oz to 5layers of 8oz with just messin around stuff. My gripe is, in a sense if I have any The shuttle tensioner, screw is tight and I actually have no adjustment (knock on wood) as mentioned before it runs a pretty good stitch. I have kindly started to remove it, tweak it with no results. I guess I have not bent it enough in any way and am still at max with the screw tightened on re-assembly thinking I may have some change, nope. So with the need for some fine adjustment with whats been mentioned. I am now getting around to order another, as this part may get all jacked up before I'm done bending it. And this may be a time to just bend another instead. I thought this is a great time to just ask your opinions and for sure feel free. Thanks Floyd

For all those who have asked me for the Juki TSC 441 adjustment manual and partlist. I have just managed to recover these manuals from a broken down PC and uploaded them here. Free for download for our members personal use. Enjoy Tor TSN-421&TSC-441EM00_e.pdf ai0cjh00.pdf

I recently bought a Cowboy 4500 from Bob Kovar at Toledo Industrial Sewing Machine after months of general searching and reading this superbly knowledgeable forum. Thanks to all contributors and to Bob K for his helpful information and services. The machine has done amazing work; Perfectly burying knots of #69 poly thread in thin polyester lining for a grill cover. I'm a newb and learning on fabric so the errors can be erased (so to speak) by ripping the seam and starting over without the evidence of remaining holes. Hoping to be on to many varied leather projects soon. I'm perplexed, however, by the 3/16" welting foot set. The outside foot is shorter than other outside feet and doesn't reach the slotted needle plate which leaves nothing holding the work in place while the needle moves forward to place another stitch. None of the walking foot adjustments outlined in the operating instruction manual correct the problem. I don't want to experiment if I don't have to, so could this be a pressure bar adjustment..., different needle plate required...? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Can anyone tell me what thread standard is used throughout the Cowboy 4500? There are various tapped holes on the machine that are neither M6 nor 1/4" and it's driving me nuts trying to figure out what sort of machine screw I need for them. Thanks.

I am grateful to Wiz and others that provided insight and information regarding the various machines. I spent a long time researching the machines, and the people that service them as that is the most important factor regarinding this purchase given the origin of these machines. That said, my machine was delivered mostly assembled from Bob Kovar at Toledo last night. And I can tell you I had it running on leather within an hour. Bob called to follow-up on a couple of questions very quickly. In addition, he labeled all the baggies with the parts and even provided several samples of different thickness of leather he knew I would be sewing to show me the machine was indeed ready. Well let me tell you about this machine, it's a darn beast. Despite its massive heft, I was able to lift it to the table, but don't suggest you do it as it's like lifting the anchor from an aircraft carrier. Here's a link to my youtube account showing the unit in delivery form, and my comments etc.

Is the Cowboy CB4500 capable of sewing through the white cutting board material or similar uhmw type plastic..say 3/8" thick? In other words, I'd have a 3/8" thick piece of plastic trapped between two pieces of 7/8 ounce leather. I seem to recall reading somewhere that it could sew through some plastics.